thea porter
Rare 1960s Thea Porter Couture Printed Silk Chiffon Dress w Gold Sequins & Gold Metal Thread Detailing
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This is a spectacular example of Thea Porter's work. It is very easy to wear with a touch of a caftan feel to it. That combined with those spectacular sleeves makes it very special piece. Her caftans and the dresses that had that caftan feel to them have come to represent Thea's work like no other pieces of her clothing that she designed. Everyone who was anyone wore her work back in the day, including Elizabeth Taylor who was a huge fan and collector. This dress is just spectacular and a very special and rare piece.
The dress is made from a printed silk chiffon that has a swirling design with a black backdrop. The print mixes different shades of green with pops of blue and the print covers the entire dress. The bodice has an empire cut and the front scoops low and wide. Detailing the edge of the neck and down the front is an antique gold metal cord embellishment. This circles around the neckline and part way down the front. Hand made frog knots made of the same cording close the dress down the front. The same gold cord covers the seam where the sleeves are set into the dress and more of it sit above the scalloping detail of the skirt. Thea was known to hunt antique stores and markets during her travels and use what she found in her designs and this is certainly a found antique textile. The dress buttons down the front to just past the waist. There is a seam set under the bust and then the dress falls from there in a loose and easy feel. The sleeves are fantastic. From just above the elbow to the cuff they balloon out to be spectacularly full. This lower portion of the sleeve is unlined and this gives it a touch of transparency. The final detail is that little scalloped panel that runs around the skirt above the bottom hem. It adds just a tiny touch of movement, and added detail that is lovely. This is very special and rare piece of Thea's work and it is also very beautiful. Excellent condition
Fully lined in a hand set black silk lining except for the lower sleeves. It closes down the front with gold antique cord loops and frog knots. Each cuff hooks to close. Tagged a vintage UK 12. Finished by hand throughout. There is some slight patina to the cording. A tiny bit of grubbiness to the seam under each arm on the inner lining.
Sleeves: 26" and 11" around the upper arm
Slightly inset shoulders: 14"
Bust: 17" flat across from side seam to side seam
Seam under the bust: 14.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 21" flat across from side seam to side seam
Bodice: 10.5" from the top of the shoulder to the seam under the bust
Total length: 56" from neck to hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-SML
Item# DD4570
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
valentino
Fall 2019 Valentino by Pierpaolo Piccioli Strapless Strapless Green Dress w Floral Design
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This is a dress that was made for the shops in limited quantities. That said, I have included a runway photo here that has similar pleat work to give you an idea of how the skirt falls once on the body. Fall 2019 was wildly successful. The Vogue review for this collection touched on Pier Paolos's inspiration for the show saying; "(he is) a man on an intuitive mission to place fashion on a positive plane. 'I feel that people are looking for emotion and dreams—but not distant dreams,' he said today before his ready-to-wear show was about to take to the runway. 'I want to create a community for Valentino. I mean something different from ‘lifestyle,’ which is about owning objects. It’s about people who share values.'” Every piece he did for the label was special and this dress is a beautiful example of that.
This dress feels thoroughly Valentino. The floral print that runs over its surface is spectacular. It is made from a fine and very light weight cotton whose finish gives it the look of a silk. It holds the soft pleat work beautifully. The lightness of the cotton combined with that soft open pleating is what lets it move so beautifully over the body once it is on. When you walk the fabric of the skirt catches the air and billows out around you. The body of the dress is done in a deep moss green that has the feel of being hand painted. Flowers trail down one side and this also has the feel of being hand painted. The strapless bodice is fitted to the waist with an inner boning to hold it in place. Inside there is a coral lining and this unexpected colour peeks through the exterior cotton very slightly. The skirt falls from the waist and widen out quite a bit as it near the floor. A wide ruffle is attached to the hem of the lower skirt for added volume and movement. There are many yards of fabric in the skirt and as you move the pleats expand to move around you beautifully. It appears to have never been worn or worn very little. Excellent condition
Lined through the bodice in coral and has an inner lightly boned bodice piece. The skirt is lined in a light white cotton. The dress closes with a hidden set side zipper and the inner bodice zips to close with its own zipper. Hand finishes. I have had another dress from the same collection in the shop before and that one had a tag that said to maintain the plisse effect that dress has you were to wring it to compress the pleats after cleaning. Tagged a Valentino 40.
Bust: to 16.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: to 13.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 22" flat across from side seam to side seam
Bodice: 8" from top of bodice to waist
Skirt: 46.5" from waist to hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-SML
Item# DD4499
Reference Photo: Fall 2019 Valentino Runway, Look 60. Model: Yoon Young Bae.
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
james galanos
Late 1970s James Galanos Silk Chiffon Printed Jumpsuit w Wide Legs & Plunge Front
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In 1951 a 27 year old James Galanos launched his first label called Galanos Originals. By 1954 he had won a Coty award and the Neiman Marcus award. Galanos was a master cutter and his ready-to-wear line was made close to couture standards and with a level of craftsmanship that was on par with the French couturiers. Grace Kelly was an early fan. He was truly one of the great American designers and his work is held in all of the major museums around the world.
This jumpsuit is absolutely gorgeous. The entire piece has a custom designed print that has been screened onto a feather light silk chiffon. Think the finest silk scarf you could have in terms of weight and feel. It has all been printed with a really outstanding design that highlights the cut of the jumpsuit. The colours are fantastic. That combination of various shades of green mixed with a soft purple and blue and pink cannot be beat. The jumpsuit lunges right to the waist at the front with a tie that keeps it in place and closed, but it is open underneath that spot to the waist so when you move, you get a very subtle glimpse of skin. The top skims over you and the sleeves start from the waist and then our wide and straight to their ends. I love how the end of the sleeve and the neck line are all finished with a black silk ribbon. The waist has elastic so is very easy to fit. If you wanted it to look very cinched and you could add a belt. The pants fall from under that and are cut to be very very wide and full so you get this incredible movement when you move. By the bottom hand, they are a full 31" around. The entire jumpsuit is lined in a green silk chiffon and all of the inner edges. Have ribbon finishes. It's incredibly well made. The movement and beauty of this piece is extraordinary. This is a piece that you slip on and feel completely comfortable when wearing it and yet it has as much drama and impact as you could ask for. It is a stunning example of his work. And it has pockets. I love it. Excellent condition
Fully lined in a green silk chiffon. It zips to close at the front under the elastic waist. The top has attached ties at the front. Hand finished through out with ribbon finished edges inside and out. It appears to have been worn very little if at all
Sleeves: 25" and are 18" around the upper arms
Shoulders: no defined seams
Bust: no true side seams
Waist: 11-15" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 23" flat across from side seam to side seam
Bodice: 16" from top of bodice to waist
Pants: 42" from waist to hem with just under 2" turned under the hem
Inseam: 28" from the inner seam to hem
Gusset: 16" front he waist to inner seam and 32.5" from back of neck to inner seam
Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-MED
Item# DD4990
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
john anthony
Incredible 2005 John Anthony Couture Runway Sample Hand Beaded & Sequin Plunge Dress
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This is the runway piece from 2005 and the bead work on it was entirely done by hand by one of the same European ateliers who did beading for many of the Couture houses for this time period. It's modern Providence includes being worn by supermodel Daria Strokous to the 30th amfAR Gala, which also lets you see how gorgeous this is once on the body. In 1972 John won the Coty Award and then he won it again in 1976. Striking evening wear like this became his signature. His work is very expensive and beaded pieces like this sold for over $20,000 and more during this time period. This comes directly from his archives and is a dress that you will never see again since it is the only one that exists.
This dress is absolutely stunning. The fabric is completely covered in thousand of tiny deep silver seed beads and iridescent aqua coloured sequins. This gives the dress some weight - we weighed it and it is just over 6 pounds - but it is so beautifully made that it balances and glides over the body perfectly once on. The front plunges right to the waist with two long triangles curving up towards the neck and hooking at the back. A ruffle from the same fabric follows the plunging neckline all the way to the waist to soften the feel of that plunge. The back is left completely open for a bare expanse of skin to show when you turn around. I love the the way the sides curved down to the back. The waist is brought in and then it curls back out over the hips. From there the skirt falls to the floor widening out as it near the hem. This give it beautiful movement when you walk and move. The colour is this magical deep aqua and silver mix and the way the beads and sequins are set give it a stunning pattern over you. No matter what angle you see the dress from it catches the light fantastically. Excellent condition.
Unlined and closes with a low set side zipper at the back and hooks to close behind the neck. Hand finished throughout with hand, applied beads and sequins. Silk chiffon panel finished hem and edges. Made to Couture standards.
Bust: no true side seams
Waist: 12-12.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 17-21" flat across from side seam to side seam
Bodice: approx 15-16" from neck to waist
Total length: approx 63" from neck to hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-SML
Item# DD4399
Reference Photos: Daria Strokous at the 30th amfAR Gala, Cannes, May 2024.
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
lanvin
Prettiest c1972 Lanvin by Jules-Francois Crahay Printed Silk Jersey & Waffle Weave Low Back Dress
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This dress was designed by Belgian-born Jules-Francois Crahay, who headed the Lanvin ateliers from 1964-1984. He has been noted as one of fashion’s 'great colorists with his colorful patterns making his 1970s Lanvin designs hugely desirable and influential.' His time at the Lanvin label is one of my personal favourites for the house. I especially love the his work during the period through the late sixties and into the early 1970s. He was a genius at print and colour and he pushed the envelope in terms of using cutting edge fabrics available during this time period. He mainly used this type of fabric for his 1971-1972 collections. This is the second time I have had a version of this dress and I love it even more this time.
This Lanvin dress is gorgeous and is from the main label. I am in absolute love with it. The dress has a gorgeous colour and print combination. It is made from mixing two fabrics and both hold colour exceptionally well so the colours are still crisp bright and true. The top portion of the dress is an easy silk jersey and then the skirt is one of his signature waffle weave cottons. The sleeves are long and simple. The neckline is scooped with a slightly wide cut. The top skims over you and the back goes down in a scoop to leave a bare expanse of skin showing. The waist is seamed and I love how the skirt is set into the waist in soft gathers so that it puffs out slightly around the waist. It also has a bit of a wrap effect where one side is open down the full length, but it is fully wrapped underneath so that you are completely covered. From there the skirt falls to the floor and it widens as it nears the hem. The fabric change on the skirt gives it a touch of weight so that it holds the shape well. The pattern is the same on both fabrics and yet they look slightly different because of the change in texture. It is brilliant. This full on pattern from head to toe makes the dress instantly recognizable as a piece of his work. Excellent condition with a note below.
The bodice is unlined and the skirt is fully lined in a white silky rayon. It closes with a back zipper. I see what looks like remnants of a lining here and there along the seams of the top. I see a mark at the front. Please see the photo after the label shot. Hand finishes. The fabric of the top has some stretch.
Sleeves: 25" and are up to 11" around the upper arm
Inset shoulders: to 14"
Bust: 16-17" flat across from side seam to side seam
Natural waist: 12-14" flat across from side seam to side seam
Seam at top of hip: 13"
Hips: to 22" flat across from side seam to side seam
Bodice: 19" from top of shoulder to seam at the top of the hip
Total length: 57" from top of shoulder to hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-SML
Item# DD4941
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
valentino
Exquisite Fall 2018 Valentino by Pierpaolo Piccioli Green Velvet Halter Dress w Floral Skirt
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The near twin of this dress walked the runway as Look 65 for the Fall 2018 Valentino season. The entire world was in love with Pierpaolo and this collection was raved about. Vogue opened their review saying "Something is going very right at Valentino. It would be hard to name another designer in the establishment echelons of fashion who is putting out a more inclusive, relatable, and unforced sense of modern elegance than Pierpaolo Piccioli. They continued saying "How to put it? Where so many other designers have sought to meet these fraught times with throwbacks to ’80s-power-woman shoulder-padded templates, Piccioli has found a new cadence of expression. It includes flowing lines, flowers, layers, scalloped edges, and a vibrant, sophisticated colour sense. For evening, there was a wealth of options to cover all occasions, according to the person a woman might be. It might mean flowing, completely covered-up gowns or ankle-length A-line tunics with slim trousers beneath... Piccioli handled both minimalism, in spare, dramatic shapes, and decorative embellishment in blown-up floral appliques and jacquard... It recognized dignity and delighted in amazing colour. Bravo, Piccioli. This was outstanding." The dress on the runway had a more bare front and it was the third last look of the collection. I am happy that I have the runway photos and a reference video for you because they show how beautiful it is once on the body and moving. It was also worn on the red carpets and in editorials that season. It is one of the best from a show filled with outstanding dresses.
The halter of the dress is made from a deep forest green velvet and then the skirt is a slightly-heavier-in-weight silk brocade that has a beautiful floral pattern worked over its entire surface. An exuberant, oversized floral pattern covers the entire skirt. The black portions that you see are a finely ribbed velvet that has an almost ultra fine ribbed corduroy finish to it. You can feel the added texture of the black parts of the print and it makes the print that much better. The dresses that went to the shops had tops that had more fabric in them then the runway and sample pieces that were loaned out for the red carpets and editorials. It makes the dress much more wearable and I like the balance more between the top and skirt. The top is made from two simple triangles in a deep green velvet. Each has a vertical dart up the front centre to add a touch of shape. They extend out from the waist into two long straps at the top that curve behind your neck, cross over themselves at the back, and then button and snap into place on either side of the little bit of velvet that curves around the sides and into the low back. The halter front and tiny straps leave your sides and your entire back bare. It is the perfect balance between the dress feeling romantic and being very sexy. The skirt is remarkable. It is set in around the waist in a series of tiny gathers and there is an internal stiffening around the waist to create that fullness of the skirt coming up, out and over the hips that you see. The fabric choice helps to hold the shape and the fullness. There is weight to it, but it doesn't feel too heavy to move in once on. As good as it looks here it only really comes to life when the dress is on and you are moving. The back of the dress has extra fullness built in and it is cut a touch longer so you get this beautiful sweeping feel behind you that just adds to the overall glamorous feel of the dress. It is incredibly beautiful . And it has pockets. Excellent condition with a minor note below.
The halter is backed with silk and the skirt is unlined. The straps button into place and it closes with a low hidden set back zipper at the waist. Ribbon edged finished inner hems. Some minor grubbiness here and there on the hem and perhaps the tiniest snag here and there on the skirt. Presents pristine once on.
Bust: has no fixed side seams. Each halter covers to approx 8.5"
Waist: 12.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: open
Bodice: Approx 14" from top of neck to waist band and the length of the straps could be adjusted as needed by moving the buttons
Total length: 61" from neck to front hem, 62" to the back hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-SML
Item# DD4915
Reference Photos/Video: (1-2) Fall 2018 Valentino, Look 65. Model Sterre Dekker. / (3-5) Amber Heard at the premiere for 'Sorry Angel' at Cannes Film Festival, 2018. / (6) Barbara Shilova for Fashion & Arts Magazine, 2020. / (8) Model in Valentino for The Financial Times UK. Photographed by Vikram Kushwah, 2018. / (9) credit unknown.
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
oscar de la renta
Resort 2016 Oscar de la Renta Look 34 Emerald Green & Pink Strapless Dress w Applique Work
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The twin of the dress was Look 34 in the Resort 2016 lineup. The show was designed by Peter Copping and if you count the bridal collection that he did for the label, this was his third show since being appointed Creative Director at that time. In the Vogue review they noted that Copping stated: "I wanted to embrace color, pattern, and the house's general joie de vivre." And as promised, the clothes were bright, generous with embroideries, and blooming with flowers and ruffles.' They went on to rave about the evening pieces saying that "they captured De la Renta's flair for drama but retained a youthful, playful spirit." This was the second last look of the show and for me, it was one of the strongest. It is an incredibly beautiful dress and a highlight from Copping's time at the label.
This is a dress that instantly captures your attention and I feel like the colours in person are far more striking than how they photoed. There is a richness and depth to them that wasn't quite captured on the camera. The top is strapless and made out of a deep pink silk. It is caught to hug the body and has one of his signature built-in boned and wire cupped corsets inside. I love how the cups at the front have an extra panel of the pink silk set over them. This gives the illusion of a slightly larger bust and also adds a bit of an old Hollywood feel to the top of the dress. At the back it curves beautifully around you. The waist is cinched for shape. On the runway, they showed it with a belt and as far as I am aware that was sold separately. I think the dress works perfectly well on its own without one, but it would be very easy to add a belt if you wanted more shape. The skirt skims over the hips below that and then falls to the floor in a fairly straight column of a spectacular emerald coloured silk. Running down the front on each side is a trailing floral and vine pattern. The vines are made from a thick raffia cord in a deep blue that has been embroidered onto the silk. The flowers are elaborately done and made from deep blue sequins and beads in various shapes and sizes. They are set so that they set up and off of the skirt for the gorgeous 3D effect. There is a high slit that runs up the back of the skirt to allow you to walk comfortably and show a flash of leg. The dress has its original hang tag in place, in its original uncut length and was never worn. It is phenomenal. Excellent condition.
The dress is lined through the bodice in a matching pink silk and has a built-in corset that is boned and cupped. The skirt is lined in a matching green silk. It closes with a hidden set zipper at the back and the inner corset closes with its own zipper. An inner waist stay hooks to close. Ribbon edge finished inner hem. Tagged a modern ODLR 8.
Bust: 16.5-17.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 14.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 19.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Bodice: 9.5" from top of bodice to waist
Total length: 56.5" from top of bodice to hem with just over 1.5" turned under the hem
Back slit: 26" from the hem up
Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED
Item# DD4894
Reference Photo: Resort 2016 Oscar de la Renta, Look 34.
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
james galanos
Dreamy 1970s James Galanos Blue Brown & Green Silk Dress w Ruffled Waist & Metallic Gold Trim
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James Galanos was just 27 years old when he launched his first label called Galanos Originals in 1951. By 1954 he had won a Coty award and the Neiman Marcus award. By 1958 he was producing clothing that could range in price from $200 to $3000, an astronomical price for ready-to-wear for that time period. when you convert that to modern dollars and realize that it would be just under 30k for his upper range pieces. Part of the reason for those high price tags was that his ready-to-wear was made to couture standards. Galanos pieces were all produced in very limited quantities in his workshops and his work was as close to couture construction that you could find outside of Paris. Grace Kelly was an early fan and other couturiers looked to his work as inspiration. His work is held in all of the major museums around the world and he is one of my personal favourite designers.
This is one of my favourite pieces I have seen by Galanos and it is incredibly beautiful in person. The dress is made from a feather light silk and that choice of fabric is what gives it that bit of volume that you see through the skirt. I did not add any underskirts, the shape that you see is all created by the way the skirt is set in and around the waist and the lightness of the silk. Two piped blue silk straps curve up and over the shoulders. The neckline dips in a slight sweetheart at the front with the silk gathered and softly pleated all the way around the top of the bodice for detailing. The silk on the bodice is that same brilliant blue as the straps and it is softly gathered down the sides to the waist. The silk extends out past the waist seam into a edged ruffle that meets a ruffle underneath created by the extension of the silk of the skirt. I love the detailing there that this creates and that underneath the ruffle the waist seam is anchored with a gold braided cording. The skirt has been softly gathered all around the waist and then it open outwards to have the volume and fullness that you see. Four panels of silk have been pieced vertically together to construct the skirt. At the front you see a deep green panel on one side and a slightly metallic feeling copper brown on the other. At the back both of the panels are the same beautiful blue as the bodice. All of the edges where the panels meet are finished with a hand applied metallic gold cord. Between the green and brown panel at the front the skirt is slit open between the cording so when you walk or move you get a flash of bare leg. The silk is so light that when you love the skirt billows out around you. Incredible. Excellent condition
Unlined and closes with a back zipper. Ribbon edge interior seams. Hand finished throighout. It appears to have been worn very little if at all.
Bust: 16" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 12" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: open
Bodice: 16" from top of shoulder to waist seam
Total length: 59" from waist to hem
Slit: 26" from hem up
Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-SML
Item# DD3736
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
Pretty Little 1950s Jobere New York Brilliant Green Silk Satin Dress w Bead & Rhinestone Detail
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I am very excited to bring you our latest mini capsule collection. This is one of nine dresses from a single owner collection. Her collection was lovingly sourced over decades and she has decided that it is time let them back out into the world for others to enjoy. For this capsule we have moved forward to the 1940s and 1950s. Really good examples from this era are becoming increasingly hard to find and these are all gorgeous little examples of that time period. This is just a tiny sampling of her overall collection and I hope to have more of these capsules for you in the future.
This stunning little dress is from the Jobere label out of New York and it is made from a bright emerald dress silk satin mixed with a cotton muslin and beaded detailing. This is a fabulously beautiful little labelled 1950s piece. It is very well-made. The colour is spectacular and I love the contrast the green has with that detailing that runs around the top of the bodice. The panel there is made out of a pale nude cotton muslin. Its edges are finished with hand done bead-work and prong set glass rhinestones. The neckline sits wide across so that you see the collarbone. It curves up and over the shoulders to create tiny cap shoulders. The green falls under that and there’s a bit of an illusion that it’s extremely low busted by the way the green is curved underneath the bust. The waist nips in and then the skirt flares out. The dress has its own built in underskirts so it is full on its own. For some of these photos I added a light crinoline but it is full even without. It is very pretty and fresh feeling. Excellent condition with a note below.
The dress is fully lined and has its own attached inner tulle skirts. It closes with a back zipper. The beads and rhinestones are hand applied. Slightest barely fade at the edge under the arm. There is light fraying to the very edges of the shoulders - please see the photos after the label shot.
Bust: 17" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 13" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: open
Length: 42" from top of shoulder to hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED
Item# D644
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
guy laroche
Rare Fall 1994 Guy Laroche Haute Couture Wide Sleeve High Low Dress w Cumberbund
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Guy Laroche began working for Jean Desses in 1949 and eventually launches his own Haute Couture label in 1957 as a full member of the Chambre Syndicale de la Mode Parisienne. He became known for his color sense and the young, sexy look of his clothes. In 1985 he won the Haute Couture Golden Thimble award and two years later he was awarded the insignia of Chevalier de L’Ordre de la Legion d’Honneur. His second Golden Thimble was given posthumously after his death in 1989. Michel Klein took over the couture division where he remained until 1996. This dress is from Klein's tenure as the Haute Couture director and label and it is a beautiful example of the work he was doing during his tenure there. Laroche once was quoted as saying “It is my intention to try and adapt haute couture to modern requirements: to make dresses that are simple and chic.” and I feel that this dress tries to live up to that thought while still maintaining the feel of couture during this mid-nineties.
This is the type of piece that is so bold and edgy that you will only ever find it in a Haute Couture piece. I feel like whoever ordered this one had it tweaked slightly from the runway presentation and made it better. The bodice is scooped across on a more graceful line (I don't love how it fits Kirsty Hume who is the model in the photo) and the back skirt feels longer. They also eliminated the bow at the front, opting instead for a single long panel falling at the back that matches the colour and fabric of the skirt. These small details add up to a big difference in how it presents. I also feel that the fit overall is far better then how it appears on the runway. It makes me wonder if there was a last minute substitution of the model for this piece, because in person the dress that I have here is a far better cut and fit overall then how it looks like in the runway shot. The dress is a mini dress that has an attached long panel on the skirt that wraps part way around you to leave the full front open under the mini skirt. The bodice is scooped wide and low at the front and made from a pale taupe silk. It extends down past the waist so a very short mini skirt that has a slight flare to it as it reaches the hem. The long skirt wraps around and is attached at the side of the waist. It is a soft olive toned green and done on that same rich heavy silk that has a slight satin finish. It falls to the floor in a long smooth drape of fabric. A wide silk cummerbund wraps around the waist to give shape. This narrows down at one end and hooks into place under a long swooping gold brooch which I believe is gold plated. The cummerbund has a long panel attached at the back and I have left it hanging as an extra panel. You could probably be clever and wrap /tie it to create a bow effect if you wished to emulate the runway photo more. The darkness of the sash around the waist is then picked up by the spectacular sleeves. Each is made out of a deep blue-black silk chiffon and are cut extra long. They are also cut wide and full to fall at an angle at the end of each sleeve. This bit of softness and transparency the sleeves have contrast sharply to the rich silk the rest of the dress is made from. It is a very unusual dress and shows the experimental side of couture. This is one of those dresses that when the right person wears it, it is going to blow people away. Excellent condition with a minor note below.
Fully lined in hand set silk that matches the colour of the exterior silk that is being lined. The sleeves are unlined. The dress closes with a hand set hidden back zipper and then there is another zipper that closes the inner mini skirt. The sash at the waist wraps and hooks into place. The brooch is detachable and shows sight patina on the gold. Proper couture label present. The dress is entirely made by hand to Haute Couture standards. The inner silk of the long skirt is scuffed near the hem and I see slight grubbiness along the hem on parts. Please see the shot after the label photo.
Sleeves: 34" to the longest point
Inset shoulders: 12"
Bust: 16" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 13.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 16" flat across from side seam to side seam
Mini dress length: 31" from top of shoulder to hem
Full Length: 60" from shoulder to longest point of the hem
Waist sash: 26.5" in length to where the hooks presently sit with an extension past that that wraps and hooks into place
Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-SML
Item# DD4012
Reference Photo: Fall 1994 Guy Laroche Haute Couture Runway Collection on Kirsty Hume.
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.