guy laroche

Fall 1994 Guy Laroche Haute Couture Runway Wide Sleeve Dress w Cumberbund & Back Skirt Panel

Guy Laroche began working for Jean Desses in 1949 and eventually launched his own Haute Couture label in 1957 as a full member of the Chambre Syndicale de la Mode Parisienne.  He became known for his colour sense along with the young and sexy look of his clothing comparison to the older more established couturiers. In 1985 he won the Haute Couture Golden Thimble award and two years later he was awarded the insignia of Chevalier de L’Ordre de la Legion d’Honneur. His second Golden Thimble was given posthumously after his death in 1989. Michel Klein took over the couture division where he remained until 1996. This dress is from Klein's tenure and it is a beautiful example of the work he was doing during there. Laroche once was quoted as saying “It is my intention to try and adapt haute couture to modern requirements: to make dresses that are simple and chic.” and I feel that this dress tries to live up to that thought while still maintaining the feel that couture had during the mid-nineties.

This is the type of piece that is so bold and edgy that you will only ever find it in a Couture piece. It has some subtle differences from the runway version which is normal for couture since each piece is fitted to the client. The bodice is scooped wider across and the back skirt feels longer. A long panel has been added that falls down the back and matches the colour and fabric of the skirt. The pale taupe inner dress is a mini in length with a panel of silk attached at the side and back. The long skirt that is attached over that is done on a soft olive green silk. This part falls to the floor in a long smooth drape of fabric. A wide deep blue/black silk band wraps around the waist for shape. This narrows down at one end and hooks into place under a long swooping gold brooch which I believe is gold plated. A long panel is attached at the back and while I have left it extending down  you could probably be clever and tie it to create a bow if you wished to emulate the runway photo more. The sleeves are spectacular. They are the same deep blue-black colour but in a silk chiffon and are cut extra long. They are very wide and full and this lets the hem to fall at an angle when your arms are down. The softness and transparency the sleeves have are the perfect contrast to the rich silk the rest of the dress is made from. It is a very unusual and uniquely gorgeous dress. Excellent condition with a minor note below. 

Fully lined in hand set silk that matches the colours of the various exterior silks. The sleeves are unlined. The dress closes with a hand set hidden back zipper and then there is another zipper that closes the inner mini skirt. The sash at the waist wraps and hooks into place. The brooch is detachable and shows a sight patina. Proper couture label present. The dress is entirely made by hand to Haute Couture standards. The inner silk of the long skirt is scuffed near the hem and I see slight grubbiness along the hem on parts. Please see the shot after the label photo. 

Sleeves: 34" to the longest point
Inset shoulders: 12"
Bust: 16" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 13.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 16" flat across from side seam to side seam
Mini dress length: 31" from top of shoulder to hem
Full Length: 60" from shoulder to longest point of the hem
Waist sash: 26.5" in length to where the hooks presently sit with an extension past that that wraps and hooks into place

Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-SML

Item# DD4012

Reference Photo: Fall 1994 Guy Laroche Haute Couture Runway Collection on Kirsty Hume.

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