In 1951 a 27 year old James Galanos launched his first label called Galanos Originals. By 1954 he had won a Coty award and the Neiman Marcus award. By 1958 he was producing clothing that could range in price from $200 to $3000, an astronomical price for ready-to-wear for that time period. His ready-to-wear line was made close to couture standards and with a level of craftsmanship that was on par with the French couturiers. Galanos was a master cutter and draper and he used many couture techniques in his work. Grace Kelly was an early fan. He was truly one of the great American designers and his work is held in all of the major museums around the world. He is one of my personal favourites. This dress is absolutely gorgeous.

This is a dress that is extremely well made with a very high level of construction techniques. That alone makes it a fabulous piece for me. The dress is made from two types of lace that give the dress its beautiful tactile feel. Everything about the cut is done to highlight and showcase those wonderful sculptural lines that the dress has. The dress falls from lace straps that curve up and over each shoulder. It dips down at the front and the back is scooped to leave a bare expanse of skin. It skims over the bust to the slight empire cut waist. The waist is generous and the lines of the dress are stunning. The bodice is covered with a beautiful black lace with a second layer of lace on top of the nude silk lining underneath so you get a little bit of extra depth to the pattern that you see. The skirt is made out of a heavy corded silk lace. The cording is also a clever way to help to shape the skirt so beautifully. The skirt curves out and over the hips and then widens out to the hem. The top lace layer sits over a deep green silk inner skirt. Having the deep moss green underneath highlights the cord and lace more than adding just a black under skirt would have. It is genius. The silk underneath also helps to hold the fuller shape the skirt has. The shape was all created by clever seaming and cut and it is so much better in person it is ridiculous. He is a designer who cut for the body, not the hanger or a dress form. His work only truly comes to life once on. The workmanship on this dress is exquisite and to demi-couture standards. Excellent condition.

Lined in a nude silk through the bodice and the inner piece of the skirt is backed in a black silk organza. It closes with a back zipper. Hand finishes throughout.

Bust: 16-17" flat across from side seam to side seam
Seam under the bust: 15.5" across
Hips: open
Bodice: 12.5" from top of shoulder to seam under the bust
Total length: 52" from top of shoulder to hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED

Item# DD4843

All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.

James Galanos was just 27 years old when he launched his first label called Galanos Originals in 1951. By 1954 he had won a Coty award and the Neiman Marcus award. By 1958 he was producing clothing that could range in price from $200 to $3000, an astronomical price for ready-to-wear for that time period. when you convert that to modern dollars and realize that it would be just under 30k for his upper range pieces. Part of the reason for those high price tags was that his ready-to-wear was made to couture standards. Galanos pieces were all produced in very limited quantities in his workshops and his work was as close to couture construction that you could find outside of Paris. Grace Kelly was an early fan and other couturiers looked to his work as inspiration. His work is held in all of the major museums around the world and he is one of my personal favourite designers. 

This is one of my favourite pieces I have seen by Galanos and it is incredibly beautiful in person. The dress is made from a feather light silk and that choice of fabric is what gives it that bit of volume that you see through the skirt. I did not add any underskirts, the shape that you see is all created by the way the skirt is set in and around the waist and the lightness of the silk. Two piped blue silk straps curve up and over the shoulders. The neckline dips in a slight sweetheart at the front with the silk gathered and softly pleated all the way around the top of the bodice for detailing. The silk on the bodice is that same brilliant blue as the straps and it is softly gathered down the sides to the waist. The silk extends out past the waist seam into a edged ruffle that meets a ruffle underneath created by the extension of the silk of the skirt. I love the detailing there that this creates and that underneath the ruffle the waist seam is anchored with a gold braided cording. The skirt has been softly gathered all around the waist and then it open outwards to have the volume and fullness that you see. Four panels of silk have been pieced vertically together to construct the skirt. At the front you see  a deep green panel on one side and a slightly metallic feeling copper brown on the other. At the back both of the panels are the same beautiful blue as the bodice. All of the edges where the panels meet are finished with a hand applied metallic gold cord. Between the green and brown panel at the front the skirt is slit open between the cording so when you walk or move you get a flash of bare leg. The silk is so light  that when you love the skirt billows out around you. Incredible. Excellent condition  

Unlined and closes with a back zipper. Ribbon edge interior seams. Hand finished throighout. It appears to have been worn very little if at all. 

Bust: 16" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 12" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: open
Bodice: 16" from top of shoulder to waist seam
Total length: 59" from waist to hem
Slit: 26" from hem up

Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-SML

Item# DD3736

All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.

James Galanos launched Galanos Originals in 1951. He was only 27 years old.  By 1954 he had won a Coty award and the Neiman Marcus award. By 1958 he was producing clothing that could range in price from $200 to $3000, an astronomical price for ready-to-wear for that time period. When you covert to modern dollars the top end figure would be about $31,000 today. His ready-to-wear was made to couture standards and on par with the French couturiers of the time. Grace Kelly was a huge fan and his work is held in all of the major museums around the world. He is one of my personal favourites and this set is an exquisite and very special example of his work.

This set was custom made for, and is from the estate of, 1950s model Betsy Pickering Kaiser. Betsy appeared on several Vogue covers in the 1950s and it was during that time period time period that she met Galanos. They were friends for over 60 years. She collected and wore Galanos pieces her entire life and was his friend and muse. He once told her husband ‘I would rather have Betsy wear my clothes than any other woman’. She was a constant presence on the International Best Dressed List and and was added to the Best Dressed Hall of Fame in the early 1970s.

This is gorgeous. It is made from a beautiful printed light weight silk chiffon that is combined with a red lace that has a metallic finish. The entire set combined weighs ounces. Huge flowers cover the entire surface of the silk chiffon. The pants are made from two layers of the chiffon and they are cut long and wide. An elastic waist makes them very easy and comfortable to wear. You then slip on that long piece over the pants. It is also constructed from two layers of silk that fall from under the lace bodice. Each side is slit open right up to the lace top. This gives the top piece a ton of movement and creates this fabulous floating effect around you when you walk. The bodice part is made of two panels of a metallic red lace that is connected along each side with a bit of a angled plunge above where they connect. The lace has that fantastic metallic finish to it for contrast against the pattern in the silk chiffon. The bodice has an inner nude silk lining so that from a distance you look like you are wearing nothing underneath it. The top is suspended by four tiny silk straps that curve over the shoulders. This set is tremendously good in person and it really needs an actual body to come to life. Cut supermodel long in length. Excellent condition

The pants are made of two layers of silk chiffon and close with a back zipper and elastic through the waist. The outer layer is lined with a nude silk chiffon through the bodice and the skirt is made from two layers of the silk. The outer layer closes at the side with hidden fabric covered snaps. There are a couple of very minor repairs and light snags near the hem of the overlay. This is a one-off, unlabelled custom piece made for Betsy and came from her estate. 

Over dress
Bust: to 18" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: to 17" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: open
Length: 62" from shoulder to hem

Pants
Elastic waist: 15-18" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 21" flat across from side seam to side seam
Pant: 45" from waist to hem
Inseam: 32" from inner seam to hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: MED-LRG

Item# DD2278

All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.

The book 'Givenchy Catwalk' says of this collection that "the new collection was heavily influenced by the fashions of the 1940s and was the height of sophistication." Several pieces walked the runway that season that had these Trompe L'oeil ribbons adorning their silk surfaces. The book notes that "the exclusive bow and ribbon prints on some day wear outfits reference the motif that had made Elsa Schiaparelli's name in 1927, but it was after dark that these features truly came into their own. In the evening were large ribbons tied into bows or loosely draped, decorating the bust like a tie or nipped in the skirts of extravagant colourful designs." This dress, or a very near version of it, was shown on the runway under a white jacket nipped in at the waist. We have also included a photo from the book that shows some of the other designs from that season that featured these sequin bows as well. It is a beautiful piece.

Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-SML

Item# DD4870

Reference Photos: (1) Spring 1979 Givenchy Haute Couture.  /  (2) Spring 1979 Givenchy Haute Couture Looks from the book "Givenchy Catwalk: The Complete Collections" by Anders Christian Madsen.

All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.

This jacket is from the debut solo collection of Bill Gibb for the Fall 1972. In the book, Bill Gibb: Fashion and Fantasy, they note that the theme of the collection was the natural world and you can see that in this suit. The book quotes fashion journalist, Suzy Menkes saying that "this is Bill Gibbs great day... for the first time showing a collection all his own. It marks the beginning of his career as a designer of the jet set." Twiggy said to Gibbs backstage "they were incredible, I loved every one, I want them all... is it possible to have one to wear tonight?". At this moment in Bill Gibbs history he was the star of fashion set. The jacket is spectacular and I love that versions are held in the permanent collection of museums. We also included several references where this or similar pieces were shot that season.

The jacket has an incredible cut to it. The collar is exaggerated and wide. The sleeves are amazing. They are full with a slight cap at the top of the shoulder and then narrow down to the wrist. The cuffs have a small split up the middle and are held closed with a metal button. The jacket has a seam set just above the natural waistline and it buttons to close above that with flower embossed silver metal buttons. Vertical panels sit all the way around the bodice from front to back. Silver painted chrysanthemums sit on either side of the buttons and a double panel of the same runs down the back. On each side of the bodice is a bee done in the same muted silver paint on brown leather and these have been cut out and applied onto the jacket. There are four of these in total, two at the front and two at the back. The bee went on to become one of his signatures. Those painted designs were all done by Sally MacLachlan. The lower part of the jacket is equally as fabulous. It skims over the hips to flare out to be quite full by the time it reaches the hem. There are eight panels of leather that have been sewn together. Each panel was painted with trailing vines of flowers running down their lengths. And there are pockets at the front! It is fantastic. Presents as excellent condition with a couple of small notes below.

Fully lined in a light taupe silky rayon. The jacket buttons to close at the front. Hand finishes. The leather of the jacket has a slight stiffened feel, that all of these particular jackets seem to have as they age. There is some slight wear and scuffing to the edges here and there and on the top of one shoulder. There is minor wear and marks on the lining. Three of the front button loops have been reattached at one of their ends. The jacket was cleaned but there is still a slight vintage smell to it. Priced with all taken into consideration balanced with its rarity. It is an incredible collectors piece. Tagged a vintage UK 10

Sleeves: approx 23.5" and 16" around the upper arm
Inset shoulders: 12"
Bust: approx 186" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist at seam: 18" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: open
Length: 42" from neck to hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-SML

Item# DD4866

Reference Photos: (1) 1972 Bill Gibb Coat in the V&A Collection.  /  (2) Bill Gibb Coat in the Collection at MUDE - Museu do Design e da Moda.  /  (3) Models in clothing by Bill Gibb, The Daily Telegraph, December 1972.  /  (4) Model in Bill Gibb for Vogue, September 1972.  /  (5) The Cover of "Bill Gibb: Fashion and Fantasy" by Iain Webb.  /  (6) Vogue, September 1972.

All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.

Loris Azzaro launched his label in 1967 and quickly defined his trademark looks by his avant garde way of defining the body. His work was shockingly sexy for the times. Some of the most beautiful women in the world wore his clothing including Marisa Berenson, Raquel Welch, Jane Birkin, Sophia Loren, Brigitte Bardot and Tina Turner. The label had a certain French flare that women world-wide loved. By the seventies and eighties he was experimenting with volume and proportions and new fabrics that at the time were all cutting edge. This is a stunning example of his work during the mid-seventies. When researching we found several examples of dresses from 1973 that combined the same jagged flame cuts with sequins. I have included some of those so you can get an idea of how great this looks on the body. 

This is a gorgeous dress and it is a dress that will really come to life once on an actual body. The body of the dress is covered with densely applied black sequins. They make the dress shimmer beautifully as they catch the light. The sequins start at the shoulder run down the sleeves, over the bodice, waist and hips and then stop about mid-thigh depending on your height. The skirt is set into the sequins in pointed angled that reflects the points of the hem. The skirt part is made from 12 individual panels that are set side by side all the way around. Each panel is a single layer of black silk chiffon that is incredibly light in weight. When you move they move around you. Each panel has only been attached at the top so you also get glimpses of your legs between each panel as you move. It is incredibly sexy. The same silk chiffon is set into the upper bodice and then the back has a huge cut out that is filled with the silk chiffon that dips into a low scoop. It buttons down the back can you see a hint of skin between each button. I love the pointed finished all around the scoop at the back. It is fantastic once on. Excellent condition

Fully lined through the body in a black silk. It closes with buttons down the back and each sleeve has a zipper at the wrist. One of his signature strapless bras is attached inside the bodice which could be easily removed if you wish.

Sleeves: 23" and are 12" around the upper arm
Shoulders: no defined seam
Bust: 16-18" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 15" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 19.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 59" from top of shoulder to the longest point of hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED

Item# DD4347

Reference Photos: (1-3) Marisa Berenson in a Loris Azzaro. October 1973. Photo: Michael Holtz.   /   (4) The cover of the book "Azzaro" for Assouline - Marisa Berenson and Loris Azzaro photographed in 1973, for issue 604 of L'Officiel de la Couture et de la Mode de Paris, by Roland Bianchini.  /  (5) Image from the book "Azzaro: Fifty Sparkling Years"  /  (6) Magazine spread featuring a model in Azzaro, 1973.

All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.

This dress is from the Spring 1977 Bill Gibb collection. In the book, 'Bill Gibb: Fashion and Fantasy' they quote him as saying "for next season, I am going to do semi-sport, separates like a little boy with shorts, something I've never done before... women want to get into pretty clothes" It goes on to describe the invitation for the show as 'a barefooted girl, wearing a simple empire line dress in a garden, surrounded by a garland of flowers' and of the show itself...'Gibb presented one of his most delicate looking collections, combining his cute boyish styles with pastoral illusions… embroidered cheesecloth and broderie anglaise. Even though he called this his flowers and lace collection, Gibbs discerning eye insured the look never became two sugary sweet by punctuating the collection with splashes of black. He said "I like a dress to have great richness. There are many ways to do this like a black cat printed on the hem of a starkly white dress, or I use black and white next to a coloured pattern fabric... It is incredibly effective". We are also very pleased to have found a photo of the dress on the runway. It is an incredibly rare and gorgeous little dress.

Bill Gibb is one of my favourite designers and I am always extremely pleased to be able offer an item from him as they are very hard to find. The really good ones especially, never mind when one is documented like this one is. It is also a gorgeous dress in its own right. I love that this showcases exactly what he said above about using black as a means to contrast and add "richness". It is a dress that in someways is simple but it has huge impact. The halter is made out of a black silk that has a pink ribbon defining all of the seams and edges. The ribbon extends out from the side of the bust to curve up and over your shoulder attaching at the edge at the back. Where the front scoops down into a V ribbon also extends out from there and these ones tie behind the back so that the ends trail down against your bare skin. Using the ribbon to define the seams visually creates six panels around you. Each of those has been hand detailed with tiny silver pink beading, opaque white beads and pink embroidery to form little flowers to perfectly fit into the theme of the collection. It is the prettiest detailing. The halter falls into a V at the front and then the ribbons cross over themselves and there is a open keyhole under that to the waist. At the back, the vertical edges sit several inches apart from each other to add even more to the bare and open feeling it has. The skirt is equally as amazing. It is made out of a white cotton inner skirt and then has an attached over skirt that does not fully meet at the front. The interior skirt is finished with a wide layer of cotton lace at the hem and then the attached top layer starts with a ruffle at the waist. It has five more layers of ruffles as it travels to the hem. The skirt is incredibly full. An interesting little detail is that the inner skirt has pockets and this allows you to put your hands into those pockets and hold the outer skirt away to the sides. This will give you more of the feel that you see on the runway photo. This is an extraordinary little piece and could not be more rare. Excellent condition.

The inner skirt acts as the lining and the halter is lined in an ivory silky rayon. It closes with the tie at the back of the neck and then hook at the back of the waist and has a zipper below that. Pockets on the inner skirt. Sized a vintage Bill Gibb UK 10. 

Bust: 15-16" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 12-12.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: open
Bodice: 15" from top of shoulder to top of the band at the waist
Total length: 48" from top of shoulder to hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-SML

Item# DD4850

Reference Photos: Spring 1977 Bill Gibb.

All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.

Thea Porter combined exoticism, embellished ornamentation and luxurious fabrics in her pieces and her work was a phenomenon during her day. This style of dress is one of her most well known dresses and it has been one of her most loved styles since it was first created in 1968. The Thea Porter book that accompanied the 2015 Fashion and Textile Museum exhibit "Thea Porter 70s Bohemian Chic" (for which over a dozen pieces were pulled from my archives) has many example of stars from that time period wearing their versions. Kate Moss is perhaps the most notable of modern girls who have one and she caused a sensation when she wore her blue version for her wedding rehearsal in 2011. This is almost certainly a one of a kind, or a version of very few that would have been made. These dresses were made between 1969 up to about 1975 and we've included some various reference photos of similar pieces so you can get an idea of how gorgeous it is on the body.

This would make a phenomenal dress for the bride, looking for something nontraditional or as a part of a wedding weekend and of course it would be a stand-out piece in any Thea Porter collection.

The Thea Porter book states that this style of dress were 'generally made out of a combination of three different fabrics, which give it an enduring variety. If the skirt was in plain cloth cotton, the bodice was usually in brocade… We made the dress in every conceivable fabric, from embroidered chiffon to liberty cotton‘s to velvet…. The silhouette of a slimmer torso combined with a full skirt (composed of 4.5 m of fabric) and sleeves became the basis for Porter‘s 'gypsy or gipsy' dress'. (note that this is historically what the dress was called at the time and is mentioned for historical accuracy). The book goes on to talk about the cut and design of these dresses saying that 'the bust became an integrated part of the body, ending directly below the breasts to create an empire line. The cut is such that the bust is held in securely, yet pushed up, removing the necessity of wearing a bra. The uneven hem of the dress evolved as a form of collaboration between Thea and one of her first seamstresses, Meg Lake, who was self taught and didn’t realize that a circle of fabric cut on the bias would fall irregularly and need to be trimmed. Porter love that effect and the mistake became a design signature.'

This is a classic Thea dress that follows all of those design philosophies. The bodice of her dresses were often crafted in antique brocade or silks and I suspect that is what we are seeing that with the beautiful and delicate gold metal thread on a feather like silk organza that we see on this front and back of the bodice on the dress. I love the little piece of silk chiffon that sits at the top of each shoulder and has the little embroidered 3D rose there. An ivory velvet ribbon details the cut of the bodice and also defines the highly detailed wide band around the waist. The sleeves are a single layer of an ivory silk chiffon and have a touch of transparency to them. They are magnificently full and each one puffs out above an elastic cuff. A little velvet bow and another embroidered 3D flower sit on the end of each sleeve. The skirt is two layers, an inner silk layer that is cut on the bias and then floating over that is a bias cut of the same ivory silk organza that the sleeves are made out of. The silk of the skirt starts just under the wide band at the waist and it flares out in yards of silk. It has that perfectly imperfect asymmetrical hem described above so that one side falls slightly longer then the other. This one is extra special because of the extreme detailing that is done by an abundance of hand embroidered flowers that run all the way around the band of the waist. More flowers run all the way around the skirt in beautiful curving patterns in a beautiful curving pattern on both the back and the front. Placed within the highly detailed embroidered leaves are little flowers formed by scalloped ribbon. The final finish is a perfect little ivory bow at the waist. It is just wildly gorgeous. Excellent condition with a minor note below

The sleeves are unlined and the skirt is lined as described above. It closes with a back set zipper and each sleeve has elastic at the cuffs. I see some lifting and wear in and around the gold medallions around the shoulders. It looks like there have been some stitches put into help hold them down at some point but some are lifting and there are areas of the organza in between that is missing. Please see the photos after the label shot. It is an incredible dress

Sleeves: 18"
Shoulders: no true seam since they are inset
Bust: 17.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Seam at the top of the waist band: 15" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist at bottom of the band: 12.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: open
Bodice: 10" from shoulder to seam at top of waist band, 15" to waist seam
Total length: 56" from shoulder to longest points of hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-SML

Item# DD4852

Reference Photos: (1-2) Kate Moss in Thea Porter, for her wedding rehearsal, 2011.  /  (3) 1970 Thea Porter Dress from The MET Collection Online.  /  (4) Jane Fonda in Thea Porter.  /  (5) Model in Thea Porter, credit unknown.  /  (6) Joan Colins in a Gipsy Dress, with her sister Jackie in a robe with trailing sleeves over trousers, in two versions of Sheila Hudson's butterfly print, at the opening of the musical "1776" in 1970. From the book "Thea Porter: Bohemian Chic" by Laura McLaws Helms and Venetia Porter.  /  (7) Floral cotton voila Gipsy dress, 1969. Photography by Willie Christie. From the book "Thea Porter: Bohemian Chic" by Laura McLaws Helms and Venetia Porter.  /  (8) Actress Sharon Tate arriving at a party with Peter Sellers. She wears a Gipsy dress with moire bodice and polka-dot chiffon skirt and sleeves. London, July 1, 1969. From the book "Thea Porter: Bohemian Chic" by Laura McLaws Helms and Venetia Porter.  /  (9) Charlotte Rampling in Thea Porter, 1970s.  /  (10) Scanned from Vogue, Autumn/Winter 1970 by Liz Eggleston.  /  (11) Scanned from Vogue, April 1975 by Liz Eggleston.

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.