james galanos
1970s Galanos Couture Silk Chiffon Pant & Over Dress Set w Metallic Lace Detailing
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James Galanos launched Galanos Originals in 1951. He was only 27 years old. By 1954 he had won a Coty award and the Neiman Marcus award. By 1958 he was producing clothing that could range in price from $200 to $3000, an astronomical price for ready-to-wear for that time period. When you covert to modern dollars the top end figure would be about $31,000 today. His ready-to-wear was made to couture standards and on par with the French couturiers of the time. Grace Kelly was a huge fan and his work is held in all of the major museums around the world. He is one of my personal favourites and this set is an exquisite and very special example of his work.
This set is from the estate of 1950s model Betsy Pickering Kaiser. Betsy appeared on several Vogue covers in the 1950s and it was during that time period time period that she met Galanos. They were friends for over 60 years. She collected and wore Galanos pieces her entire life and was his friend and muse. He once told her husband ‘I would rather have Betsy wear my clothes than any other woman’. She was a constant presence on the International Best Dressed List and and was added to the Best Dressed Hall of Fame in the early 1970s.
The set is made from a beautiful printed light weight silk chiffon that is combined with a red lace that has a metallic finish. The entire set combined weighs ounces. Huge flowers cover the surface of the silk chiffon. The pants are made from two layers of the chiffon and they are cut long and wide. An elastic waist makes them very easy and comfortable to wear. Layered over the pants is a long dress that is also made from two layers of silk combined with a lace for the top part. Each side of the skirt is slit right up where the top ends. This lets the top skirt billow and move around you when you walk. The bodice part is made of two panels of a metallic red lace and it is connected along each side. There is a bit of an angled V where they connect at each sire. The lace has that fantastic metallic finish to it for contrast against the pattern in the silk chiffon. The bodice has an inner nude silk lining so that from a distance you look like you are wearing nothing underneath it. The top is suspended by four tiny silk straps that curve over the shoulders. Cut supermodel long in length. Excellent condition
The pants are made of two layers of silk chiffon and close with a back zipper and elastic through the waist. The outer layer is lined with a nude silk chiffon through the bodice and the skirt is made from two layers of the silk. The outer layer closes at the side with hidden fabric covered snaps. There are a couple of very minor repairs and light snags near the hem of the overlay. It is unlabelled but is a custom piece made for Betsy and came from her estate.
Over dress
Bust: to 18" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: to 17" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: open
Bodice: 19" from the top of the shoulder to the seam under the lace edge
Total length: 62" from shoulder to hem
Pants
Elastic waist: 15-18" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 21" flat across from side seam to side seam
Pant: 45" from waist to hem
Inseam: 32" from inner seam to hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: MED-LRG
Item# DD2278
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loris azzaro
1973 Loris Azzaro Couture Black Flame Sequin Detailing & Feather Light Silk Chiffon Dress
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Loris Azzaro launched his label in 1967 and quickly defined his trademark looks by using ornate fabrics and avant garde ways of defining the body. Some of the most beautiful women in the world wore his clothing including Marisa Berenson, Raquel Welch, Jane Birkin, Sophia Loren, Brigitte Bardot and Tina Turner. It was a label that defined sexiness and had a certain French flare that women world-wide loved. By the seventies and eighties he was experimenting with volume and proportions and new fabrics that at the time were all cutting edge. This is a stunning example of his work during the mid-seventies. When researching we found several examples of dresses from 1973 that utilized the same jagged flame pattern and sequins against silk chiffon. This one actually looks like a sleeveless version of the one shot on Marisa Berenson. This is a label that I really love and am always happy to find pieces from.
This is a gorgeous dress. It is really one that will come to life even more once on an actual body and I hope the photos convey enough of how fabulous it is because when worn this one will be even better. The entire body of the dress is covered with densely applied black sequins and these catch the light from every angle. This covers you from that jagged design on the bodice down and over the hips. The sequins extend right from the flame design at the front and then are set in long vertical rows to the hem. The top of the bodice is a single layer of black silk chiffon. This bit of transparency adds an incredibly sexy feel. He used that same silk chiffon down the back where it dips into a low scoop. I love the way that the jagged flame pattern defines the bust and that low scoop at the back. A high slit up one side lets you have the perfect flash of skin when you walk or sit. It is fabulous once on an actual body. Excellent condition
Fully lined through the body in a black silk and it zips to close at the back.
Bust: to 21" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: to 19" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 22.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 57.5" from top of shoulder to hem with 2.5" turned under
Slit: 19.5" from hem up
Modern Sizing Equivalent: MED-XL
Item# DD4403
Reference Photos: (1-3) Marisa Berenson in a Loris Azzaro. October 1973. Photo: Michael Holtz. / (4) The cover of the book "Azzaro" for Assouline - Marisa Berenson and Loris Azzaro photographed in 1973, for issue 604 of L'Officiel de la Couture et de la Mode de Paris, by Roland Bianchini. / (5) Image from the book "Azzaro: Fifty Sparkling Years" / (6) Magazine spread featuring a model in Azzaro, 1973. / (7) Spring 1973 Loris Azzaro Couture.
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christian dior
2000s Christian Dior by John Galliano Peach Silk Chiffon & Silver Beaded Bias Cut Dress
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During John Galliano's years from 1996-2011 at the house of Christian Dior he arguably produced some of the most amazing bias cut and chiffon dresses in the house's history. His work often has a feeling of the decadence and abandonment of the twenties and thirties with their beautiful cuts. They marry Old Hollywood with the minimalist spirit of the nineties and early 2000s and the results are stunning. This is an amazing example of his work from the Boutique line and it is gorgeous. It is so classically Galliano for Dior in its shape and cut. It is a real beauty.
The dress is made out of the palest possible peach / pastel salmon nude silk chiffon that has a slight bit of texture to it. It is completely cut on the bias which makes it so easy to wear. The dress is cut wide across the shoulders with a scoop at both the front and the back. From there it drapes down and over the body to the floor. That signature bias cut that he did so perfectly allows the dress to skim and drape over you so that is shows every curve but is not overly fitted. The sleeves are cut a bit wide through the upper arm, narrow down just slightly to the cuff and then have a full ruffle to finish them. The bead work that you see over the dress is continued over the sleeves so you get an amazing little glitz in the light from every angle. The bodice is heavily finished with an intricate pattern of silver tube and seed beads and these catch the light beautifully. The bead work continues around the back of the dress and then you have scattered medallions of beads down the front and back all the way down to where the skirt begins. The cut of the dress is meant to simply glide and skim over the body and then it flares out dramatically through the lower skirt. The seaming is a nod to the work you see from the twenties and thirties. The fabric of the lower skirting has been pieced together with a series of angled chevron panels. The widening of the hem is created by the way those angled silk chiffon panels are stacked on top of each other with each panel getting wider than the one above. This gives you so much movement when you walk. A row of tightly spaced matching silk covered buttons run up one side for the perfect finish. The dress is even better in person and on the body as the static photos cannot fully convey how a bias cut dress moves. They only truly come to life when worn. It is an incredible example of his work and looks to have been worn very little if at all. In its original uncut length. Excellent condition
Fully lined in the same silk chiffon and closes at the side with a series of silk covered buttons. You can see the hand work that was done to apply the beads on the inside of the fabric. The bias cut should allow it to fit a range of sizes and I have taken the comfortable range when laying flat for you below
Sleeves: approx 23" to their longest points and are 16" around the upper arm
Shoulders: Approx15-16"
Bust: 17-20" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 16-18" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 19-22.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Total length: 68" from top of shoulder to hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-LRG
Item# DD4954
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james galanos
Amazing 1970s James Galanos Couture Brown & Black Navy Silk Crepe Front Slit Dress
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In 1951 a 27 year old James Galanos launched his first label called Galanos Originals. By 1954 he had won a Coty award and the Neiman Marcus award. By 1958 he was producing clothing that could range in price from $200 to $3000, an astronomical price for ready-to-wear for that time period. His ready-to-wear line was made close to couture standards and with a level of craftsmanship that was on par with the French couturiers. Galanos was a master cutter and draper and he used many couture techniques in his work. Grace Kelly was an early fan. He was truly one of the great American designers and his work is held in all of the major museums around the world. He is one of my personal favourites. This dress is absolutely gorgeous.
The dress is made out of a high end silk crepe that flows and drapes beautifully over the body. The bodice is cut to skim and blouse over the body to the waist. The waist is cut with a more generous feel and has a softened elastic running through it. You could add a belt if you wanted to cinch it in more and give it more shape. The skirt falls from there in a beautiful column of that same silk and widens out as it nears the hem. It has a bit of an old Hollywood feel to it that I love. The dress closes at the front with a tie at the top of the neck and a hook and zipper that starts at the waist. This leaves an open slit from under where it ties at the neck right to the waist. It is subtle but as you move, you do get that flash of bare skin. There is no collar other than that little tie that extends out from the neck. I love the inset of the darker coloured silk that runs down the entire front of the dress. In certain lights, it looks like the deepest possible blue and in others a soft black. One that band hits the waist seam it is pleated all the way down to the hem. This inset cleverly adds the perfect amount of detail to the dress and also gives it the illusion of extra length. The simplicity of the design hides the high skill level that having this all lay so perfectly with this type of fabric and with such a simple closure. It is so well made that I think that you could actually wear the dress either way around. The sleeves are spectacular and each one is cut to be a full wide balloon sleeve above the banded wrist. One of his signature knotted silk buttons closes each cuff. It is the perfect little extra embellishment for the dress. Excellent condition with a minor note below.
Fully lined through the skirt with a matching coloured silk chiffon and the bodice is unlined. It closes as described above. The elastic at the waist has softened. There is one button at each cuff. Hand finishes and ribbon finished seams throughout. There is very slight fading across the top of the shoulders and one one arm. Please see the photo after the label shot. If worn belted this would accommodate a smaller size as well as the cut is so forgiving.
Sleeves: Approx 26"
Shoulders: no shoulder seam present
Bust: to 21" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 17-18.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 22" flat across from side seam to side seam
Bodice: 17.5" from neck to waist
Total length: 64" from neck to hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: MED-LRG
Item# DD4945
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philip hulitar
Exceptional 1950s Philip Hulitar Couture Chanpagne Silk Satin Strapess Dress w Elaborate Gathered Panels
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Philip Hulitar designed under his own namesake label from 1949 to his retirement in 1964 so his pieces fall in a very defined window for dating. He was known for his sophisticated dresses and evening gowns. Shortly after the launch of his label a journalist gushed that; 'The star of a gifted designer has risen recently on the fashion horizon'. Prior to launching his own label, Mr Hulitar was the in-house designer and head of the women's dress division for Bergdorf Goodmans for 18 years. His work is amazing. This would absolutely make for an amazing wedding dress for the bride or as an alternative dress in a more extended wedding celebration. And of course it could also be worn to any event. It is just beautiful.
This dress so beautiful to see. The fabric is that rich ivory champagne colored silk that seems to have been done nest during this time period. The cut of the dress is magical. The bodice is fitted and strapless and I love how it has a slight curve across the top of the bodice. Inside it is boned to help to hold the shape that you see. There is a little bow at one side for detailing that is so pretty. It is cut to follow your every curve. The waist is brought in but there is no horizontal seam there to break the eye. Instead it is held in place inside so you just get this beautiful unbroken curve to shape the body. The skirt curves over the hips and then widens out to fall to the floor in a stunning expanse of silk. The entire dress is shaped by the seam and the use of long vertical panels which give the skirt the volume that you see. You cod make it even fuller by adding a full crinoline underneath too. On the front and back are those inset panels of the same fabric bit for the panels they have been hand gathered across. This creates these long and wide panel of intricately gathered silk that run the full length of the dress. I love how they are used to add to the hourglass shape of the dress by being set wide across the bust, coming in at the waits and then expanding out across the width of the skirt. It does the same at the back but in a not so exaggerated way. The back is cut slightly longer for a beautiful sweep of fabric there. It is just a beautiful and rare piece of 1950s couture. Excellent condition with small notes below.
Fully lined in a tea coloured silk organza and closes at the back with a hand set metal zipper. Hand finishes throughout. Boning through the bodice. Beautifully made. The inner lining has a variation throughout that of course does not effect the outer dress at all. I see a tiny foxing mark on one side of the outer skirt and the edge under the arm has started to give on one side and it is just starting a tiny on the other. These could easily be altered out by reducing the width of the band there a little. Please see the photos after the label shot. The construction throughout is to demi-couture standards. The colour is a bit more ivory then how it photoed. You could easily alter this one down if needed
Bust: to 18" flat across from side seam to side seam with room to a C cup at the front
Waist: 14" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: open
Length: 53" from top of bodice to front hem and 62" to the back hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: MED-LRG
Item# DD4373
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christian lacroix
Fall 1994 Christian Lacroix Runway Knit Printed Striped Slouchy Cardigan w Original Belt
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Christian LaCroix launched his Haute Couture house in 1987 and was an instant success on the worldwide stage. A ready-to-wear line soon followed along with perfumes and menswear. His collections are always exotic, lavish affairs and his designs seemed to span the decades with their eccentric glamour pulled from multiple sources of inspiration. The twin of this cardigan was shown on the fall 1994 runway and you can see how fantastic it is on the body.
This is a beautiful example of Christian's ready-to-wear work and it is made to be slightly oversized and easy to wear. It is a piece that you can wear open and layered over other things or wrap and use the belt that comes with it or one of your own to have to feel more like a coat or to even be able to wear it on its own. It is made out of a mixed knit that is soft to the touch. Everything about it is meant to convey ease and luxury. It has no closures and just slips on. The shoulders slope down and into those fabulously long ribbed cuffed sleeves. You can push the sleeves up, wear them long or roll them. The body of the cardigan is loose and generously cut. Pockets sit low on each hip and the collar has a wide shawl feel to it. The entire bottom is one in a ribbon to pick up the cuffs. It is gorgeous and once on, you won't want to take it off. Excellent condition.
Unlined with no closures but does come with its original twist tie belt. Tagged a size M but the loose and easy for will work on a large range of sizes. The smaller you are the more it will feel oversized.
Sleeves: 22" from he dropped shoulders
Dropped shoulders: 26"
Bust- hips: 29" flat across from side to side and narrows to about 23"at the ribbing
Length: 32" from neck to hem and hangs a bit longer once on the body
Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-LRG
Item# DD4524
Reference Photo: Fall 1995 Christian Lacroix Runway.
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john galliano
Gorgeous Fall 2003 John Galliano Bias Cut Deep Purple Silk Dress w Draped Arm Panels
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This dress is from John Galliano's own label and is an incredible example of his work from this time period. This is a production piece that was not shown on the runway but would have been made in limited quantities for the shops. For this season he had emphasized a glamorous hourglass shape mixed with nods to pinup girl lingerie style dressing. These bias cut dresses always harken back to his love of the 1930s and 1940s and you can see that influence in them. This dress with its cut out detailing and that fantastic draping of fabric across the shoulders is absolutely beautiful. This is classic Galliano and is extremely flattering once on the body.
The dress is made out of a deep purple silk that has a slight bit of texture to it. It is completely cut on the bias in that signature cut he does so well and that we all love. The dress falls from a delicate strap that curves up and behind the neck and then it drapes down and over the body to the floor. The bias cut of it allows the dress to skim and drape over you so that it shows every curve but is not overly fitted. The fabric has been pieced together with dropped and angled panels throughout to create the beautiful shape that you see. The dress is suspended from tiny straps that curve up and around the neck. At the back, the strap meet behind the neck and then drop down the centre of the back and panels of silk are suspended from it. These curving panels can be worn either down and under the arms or you can drape your arms through them to create a beautiful curving 'sleeve' effect over the arm. I think that on a real body you might even be able to get clever and do some other styling tricks with them as well. The dress glides over the body past the bust, waist and hips and then flares out as it reaches the hem. It buttons to close down the side with a row of his signature buttons covered in the same silk and then on the other side the fabric is gathered in and up into a wired circle. The circle is open in the centre and the panels that gather into the circle have been cut out and opened so that it forms the shape of a flower trailing over one hip. The dress is lined in a crepe silk but you could choose to remove that lining and have that side be completely bare so that your skin showed through if you wished. I have seen this dress in another colour where someone did that and it looked great. It is an incredible feat of patterning. The dress is even better in person and on the body as the photos cannot fully convey how a bias cut dress moves. It will only truly come to life when worn. Excellent condition with a minor note below.
Fully lined in a slightly deeper purple silk crepe and closes at the side with a series of silk covered buttons. I see perhaps a tiny pull in the fabric here and there which happens with this fabric and a bit of shininess here and there from pressing near seams. All minor and mentioned for accuracy. Tagged a FR42, GB14, US8. The bias cut should allow it to fit a range of sizes with it just draping more in a smaller frame
Bust: 16-19" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 13-16" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 18-21" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 63" from top of shoulder to hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-LRG
Item# DD4599
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Bill Blass launched his label in 1970 when he bought out the Maurice Rentner label and re-launched it under his own name. Blass was arguably one of the most famous of the American designers. His forte was the ability to mix simple styles with unexpected materials in way that was very flattering to the wearer. These pants are so unusual and I absolutely love them. This is the type of piece that you are only going to find in vintage.
These are based on the classic harem pant that you see in many cultures around the world. You have to wonder if he travelled somewhere and was inspired to make a version for the western market. They are made out of a beautiful black silk chiffon with another layer of chiffon inside acting as the lining. Onto the chiffon is an amazing pattern of flowers and vines done in metallic gold, red, green and purple. This gorgeous design completely covers the pants from top to bottom. As they near the hem of the pants the pattern changes to horizontal stripes that anchor the entire design. They have no closure. Instead there is elastic around the waist so you just pull them on and go. The bottom of the pants also have elastic and this lets them blouse and balloon up around the ankles. It is an extremely simple design that is easy to wear. The gold and metallic colours are so striking. These would be fantastic to travel with and you can easily dress them up or down. Excellent condition
Fully lined in a black chiffon with elastic at the waist and cuffs. They appear to have been worn very little if at all. The elastic at the waist does give them flexibility in measurements. I have given the approximate range of measurements and I think if you were smaller you could have the elastic at the waist tightened. They are very easy to fit.
Elastic waist: 12.5-21" flat across from side to side
Hips: open
Length: 43" from waist to hem
Inseam: 29"
Gusset: 16" from back waist to inner seam
Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-LRG
Item# DD4964
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alexander mcqueen
Incredible Fall 2008 Alexander McQueen Draped Strapless Silk Dress w Elaborate Beading
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McQueen's Fall 2008 collection was called 'The Girl Who Lived in a Tree' and it was inspired by a combination of his trip to India and a 600 year old elm in his garden. The V&A Museum says of this collection: 'McQueen’s Autumn/Winter 2008 collection centered on a fairy tale narrative devised by McQueen about a girl who descends from a tree to marry a prince and then become a queen. It was inspired by a 600-year-old elm tree in the garden of the designer’s Sussex home. At the center of the set stood a giant tree swathed in fabric, inspired by Bulgarian artist Christo, who is renowned for wrapping buildings with material.' This dress was a piece made for production for the shops and you can see a similar swooping cut that the final pieces of this show had in its design. It is stunning.
The dress is made out of a beautiful rich black silk and is cut with an almost sculptural line combined with that bias cut draping. The combination is fantastic. The dress has a more fitted inner dress and then the silk drapes over that. The bodice is strapless and there is a full built-in cupped corset that holds the dress in place and gives you support through the bust. One side of the inner more fitted dress is exposed and this gives a suggestion of the shape of the body underneath. You see the inner dress from the top of the strapless bodice, around its side, and then down to about the hip. That inner portion of the dress has been been elaborately embroidered and beaded in a stunning floral design. It is beautiful. On the other side of the bodice, a silk panel is attached all the way around the top of the neckline and then it drapes down and around to frame that exposed inner dress. It creates this beautiful curved draping effect that gives the dress a bit of a Grecian goddess feel and picks up on those drapes that he used for the final few dresses on the runway. The silk panel continues all the way around the back and then the entire thing drapes to the floor. The hem is set on a slight angle with the side that drapes down sitting longer than the other side. This creates a very classic and signature McQueen feel. It is a beautiful mix of exposing just enough of the shape of the body while still showcasing the exceptional draping that he excelled at. I love how the draping slightly exaggerates the shape of the body and add curves even though the dress is not tight tot he body in any way. No matter what angle you see this dress from there is an interesting drape or an elaborate beaded detail. It is gorgeous. Excellent condition
An inner black silk lining goes to just above the knee and there is a built in inner corset that is lightly boned and cupped. The corset has its own back zipper that fully opens and then the dress zips to close over that. It appears to have been worn very little if at all. Tagged a McQueen 44
Bust: 17" flat across from side seam to side seam with B to maybe small C cups
Inner waist: 15" flat across from side seam to side seam
inner hips: to 21" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 55" from top of bodice to shortest point of hem, 58" to the longest point
Modern Sizing Equivalent: MED-LRG
Item# DD4622
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This is a fantastic and surprisingly avant garde Haute Couture dress by Pierre Cardin. It is from the Spring 1985 collection and we have included some reference photos of the twin of the dress on the runway so that you can see how it sits on the body. They really give you an idea of how fantastic and unusual this is once it is on the body. It is a beautiful and elegant piece that may not be as mod in feel as some of Cardin's earlier pieces but it is one that shows the breadth of his talent. From a historical perspective it's also an interesting insight on the volume and play on proportion done in the 1980s.
Throughout his career Cardin often played with volume and for the 1985 collection he put huge voluminous caped bodices over narrow skirts, a silhouette we first saw him begin to do in the late 1970s. This dress is made from a fine silk that is covered in a dynamic and bold floral print. You can see that fantastic play on volume in the cut. The dress was completely made by hand and the fine workmanship is wonderful to see. That avant garde cut is all created by clever seaming and traditional couture methods and this mix is fascinating. There is an inner more sheath-like dress and then a caped piece attaches over that. The neckline is set higher across the front with a pleated over piece that falls from the shoulders. At the front it is set into a black silk ribbon that wraps around the hip area. Your arms slip underneath it at the sides and then the cape extends downwards into a long point at the back. The top layer has been softly pleated and this gives it more volume and movement as you move. It is also what gives it that incredible and unusual silhouette that you see. The skirt falls from under the wide black silk ribbon that is attached around the hip area and it is done in a sleek and simple cut to the floor. It is very chic and unusual. Excellent condition with minor notes below
Fully lined in a hand set white silk and closes with a back hidden set zipper on the inner dress. At some point the hem was let down and I have left it for the extra length. You can see a faint line where it was folded. There are light shoulder pads whose inner stuffing has degraded. I see some minor yellowing to the inner lining around the top of the zipper area and very light grubbiness to the very edge of the inner arm that you don't see because it is covered by the cape.
Inner bust: to 19" flat across from side seam to side seam
Inner waist: 17.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 20.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Bodice: 15" from top of bodice to waist
Total length: 59" from waist to hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: MED-LRG
Item# DD4981
Reference Photos: Spring 1985 Pierre Cardin Haute Couture.
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
bill blass
Prettiest 1970s Bill Blass Black Silk Organza Dress w Extensive Ruffle Detailing & Full Puff Sleeves
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Bill Blass launched his label in 1970 when he bought out the Maurice Rentner label and re-launched it under his own name. Blass was arguably one of the most famous of the American designers. His forte was the ability to mix simple styles with luxurious materials and his evening wear in particular seemed to have a way of flattering the wearer. He knew how to walk that line perfectly. This is a beautiful example of his work from this time period.
The dress is made from a light weight black silk organza and it is an easy-to-wear and very pretty dress. The dress is made to look as if it wraps around you but it actually is fully secured all the way around. The bodice has a cross over the front and is meant to skim over you to the waist. At the back it closes with a hook and eye at the top of the neck and then there is an open keyhole slit to where the zipper begins just above the waist. I love how the back and upper part of the shoulders are made from only one layer of the organza so that it has a touch of transparency. This transparency has been carried over to the sleeves as well. The sleeves are spectacular. Each one is extremely full and balloons out over the cuffs. They are also open with a keyhole from the top of the shoulder to the wrist. The wrist is highlighted with a bow made from the same organza and then you have a huge double ruffle of silk that falls over your hands. The waist is brought in and has an attached band of the same organza that you tied to one side. Under that the skirt falls to the floor and widen out beautifully. It is scooped up at the front to one side and there is another double layer of ruffles that begins at the top of the hip and then falls all the way to the floor. It follows the edge of the skirt all the way around the back and then scoops up the other side. This adds that incredible volume and drama to the skirt that you see. The skirt is lined underneath and the inner skirt has a smaller open slit so that your full leg is not exposed. If you wanted to, you could easily expand that inner slit so that opened all the way up and you did see all of your leg. It is gorgeous and even more beautiful in person. Excellent condition with a minor note below.
Fully lined in a black silk. It closes at the back of the neck with a hook at the top of the neck and a zipper starting just above the waist. Each cuff hooks to close, and the belt at the waist snaps into place. Perhaps the tiniest bit of fading to an edge here or there, but this is a natural occurrence with this type of fabric in this age of garment and I'm being pretty picky.
Sleeves: 29" including the 6 inch ruffle. 15" around the upper arm.
Shoulders: 16"
Bust: to 19" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: to 14" flat across from side seam to side seam
Inner hips: to 19" flat across from side seam to side seam
Bodice: 14" from top of shoulder to top of the band at the waist
Total length: 61" from top of the shoulder to hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: MED-LRG
Item# DD4656
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
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The twin of this dress walked the runway for the Spring 2012 show for Look 46. On the runway it was styled with a very heavy and extremely dramatic wide belt and choker but once you see the dress on its own you realize just how light and pretty the dress actually is. Oscar showed the collection in his new showroom on 42nd street. The space had yet to be fully renovated and this gave the atmosphere a raw edginess and the styling reflected that. Vogue called the evening dresses 'entrance making'. This dress is wonderful and a harder to find larger size.
The dress is made from a lightweight silk organza in the most stunning brown. There is another layer of silk underneath and the dress is very light in weight. The entire top organza layer has been lightly gathered into soft, almost pleats, that add an incredible texture over the entire dress. The bodice skims over you to the seamed waist. The neckline is cut into a V with the two sides of the bodice crossing over each other at the front. It is very flattering. The straps curves up and over the shoulders and the back drops into a V for a pretty and feminine feel. The waist is seamed but has a more generous feel. You could add a belt if you wanted it to be more cinched in. The skirt cascades to the floor and is is very wide and full by the time it reaches the hem. The skirt is made up of four attached tiers of the almost weightless silk with each tier getting wider than the one above it all the way to the floor. This lets the skirt float beautifully around the body to give it the feel of airiness and lightness. The lightness of the silk gives it a gorgeous movement when you move and walk. It is fabulous. Excellent condition with a minor note below.
The dress is fully lined in a matching brown silk. The dress closes with a back set hidden zipper. I see perhaps the tiniest bit of fading here and there on the edges of the fabric on the shoulder. Organza tends to do this and it is very minor. Tagged a modern ODLR 16
Bust: 20-22" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: to 17" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: open
Bodice: 16" from top of shoulder to waist
Total length: 62" from top of shoulder to hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: LRG-XL
Item# DD4946
Reference Photos/Video: Spring 2012 Oscar de la Renta, Look 46. Model Taylor Nicole.
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
christian lacroix
Rare Spring 1988 Christian Lacroix Well Documented Brilliant Silk Floral Dress w Back Bustle
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This dress is very special and an extremely well documented piece from Spring 1988. It has the special added provenance of being the twin of one of the four dresses portrayed in that instantly recognizable photo taken in his atelier that year. That photo is perhaps one of the most famous photos in the Lacroix history. The dress is from his Luxe label that was only produced the very first couple of seasons. It was very high end expensive ready-to-wear that was made to near couture standards and was available primarily to his couture clients and a select few beyond that. It was the predecessor to his later regular ready-to-wear collections. It is said that this label only lasted a couple of seasons because some of the couture clients complained at how close the garments were to their Haute Couture pieces. We found numerous reference photos of the dress as it appeared on the runway so you have an amazing idea of how this dress looks on the body.
The dress is gorgeous. It is made out of a textured silk organza that has a slight texture running through it. Onto that is a glorious floral pattern in pinks and yellow with pops of green. It feels so vibrant and beautiful with that gorgeous print. The sleeves are long and they are cut on a slight curve in the traditional couture manner. The shoulders are lightly shaped and the front falls into a shallow V. The dress has a little bit of gathering just at the bust area down the centre seam and then it falls smoothly to the hem under that. It is cut to skim over you through the body with just a suggestion of shape through the waist. At the back the bottom 9 inches of the skirt has an inset bustle. The fabric there is gathered into a curving seam and there are three black organza half bows stacked one on top of the other to create a bustle feel. This is one of his most famous dresses and its amazing. It appears to have been worn very little if at all. Excellent condition
The body of the dress is fully lined in a black silk and the sleeves are lined in a white silk. The dress zips to close at the back and each cuff has a zipper to close it. Light padding in the shoulders. Tagged a vintage Lacroix 44
Sleeves: 22.5" and 13" around the upper arm
Slightly dropped shoulders: 17"
Bust: to 19.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: to 16.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 19.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Total length: 35" from top of shoulder to hem with 2" turned under the hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: MED-LRG
Item# DD4401
Reference Photos: (1-5) Spring 1988 Christian Lacroix Collection. / (6-7) Models in Christian Lacroix Haute Couture Atelier, Paris, 1988. Photos by Arthur Elgort.
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
christian dior
Resort 2018 Christian Dior by Maria Grazia Chiuri Runway Look 47 Plunge Yellow Silk Chiffon Dress Size 42
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I have two of these in the shop today and this one is the larger one and it is a FR42/US10 in size. The twin of this dress in a different colour walked the runway as Look 47 for the 2018 resort season. The show was held in the remote Upper Las Virgenes Canyon Open Space Preserve in Calabasas, California and Rihanna, Charlize Theron and Solange Knowles were there alongside the fashion pack. The inspiration for the show came from the archives and Chiuri said 'she went to the archives, where she came across the house founder’s Lascaux collection of 1951, inspired by the ancient cave paintings discovered in southwestern France a decade earlier.' The twin of it with the front tacked closed a bit was also worn by Kate Mara in 2017 which shows you how it looks when you do close the plunge a bit. It is also interesting because a very similar dress was shown for the Resort 2008 collection and you can see that progression from the Dior archives to this piece.
This is a dress that is insanely sexy and bare feeling. I love its bright joyful yellow colour and minimal lines. The dress is a made out of a feather light silk chiffon that tops inner layers of silk tulle and silk. This fabric combination makes it very light and easy to wear and it feels like a dream once on the body. The lightness of it lets it move and float around you beautifully as you walk and move. The front plunges low to the seam at the slightly empire set to the waist. It crosses over itself a touch at the front and the seam under the bust is detailed with a tiny little ruffle in the same silk. The shoulders twist as they curve over your shoulders and then it falls into another deep V at the back. The panels there sit a wider apart where it meets the waist so you get a more open back feel. The sides are equally as dramatic as the plunge in long Vs to the waist. Under that the skirt flows to the floor and widens out as it nears the hem. There is a tremendous amount of fabric in the skirt and this lets the skirt billow out around you as you move. The top layer of the skirt is a silk chiffon that has a touch of texture to it. There are two layers of silk tulle under that and a final inner layer of silk that acts as the lining. The effect all of these layers have once it is on and moving around you is fantastic. It is fabulous on the body. It appears to have been worn very little if at all. Excellent condition
Lined as described above and closes with a back hidden set zipper. Tagged a FR42, UK14, IT46, US10. A tiny pinhole in the lining of the bust. The easy cut should work on a range of sizes.
Bust: no true side seams but each triangle will cover 7-9" across
Waist: 15" flat across from side seam to side seam
Innermost hips: to 24" flat across from side seam to side seam, the outer layers are full and open
Bodice: 14" from top of shoulder to waist
Total length: 56" from top of shoulder to hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-LRG
Item# DD4653
Reference Photos/Video: (1-2) Resort 2018 Christian Dior Runway, Look 47. Model Cara Taylor. / (3-4) Kate Mara in Dior at the 2017 Guggenheim International Gala.
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
christian dior
Spectacular Cruise 2008 Christian Dior by John Galliano Embellished One Shoulder Black Silk Chiffon Dress
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This was a dress produced for the shops but you can see that it was based on a combination of Looks 10 and Look 52. Done in a more versatile black, it has the one shoulder cut of Look 10 combined with the bead work and embellishments that you see on look 52. Vogue said that the collection was done "in an electric-bright palette.. and channelled Barbara Hutton's sixties—a glittery, lame, paisley, and leopard-print world of muumuus, bikinis, capri pants, trapeze dresses, cat-eye sunglasses, and scarf-wrapped hats. It bordered on camp... and Kitschy or not, there was no denying the workmanship that went into crafting the large collection." I love that the photo of the blue dress still shows you how fantastic this is on the body and I love that the added details make it feel that much more special.
The dress is made out of a black silk chiffon that has a slight bit of texture to it. It is all cut on the bias but with seaming at the waist so that it has more structure then some of his longer bias cut pieces. The dress falls from one shoulder and then drapes down and over the bodice to the waist before the skirt swings out from under there. It is very beautiful. It is cut to skim and drape over you so that is shows every curve but is not overly fitted. The dress is suspended from that one wide shoulder panel that curves over your shoulder and drapes across the bust to the other side. On both the front and back he has added a fabulous spray of intricate floral appliques that are detailed with black jet beads and sequins. These catch the light beautifully as you move. The waist nips in and the dress comes with its original belt, in its original pouch, that allows you to cinch the waist in as much as you like. I love the big jewel buckle on the belt that adds that much more glitz. The skirt flares out under that to the hem. There is a good amount of silk chiffon through the skirt which gives you so much movement when you walk. It's stunning. His signature row of tightly spaced buttons run up one side. It is an incredible example of his work and looks to have been worn very little if at all. Excellent condition with a small note below
Fully lined in a black silk and closes at the side with a series of silk covered buttons. I see one tiny hole near the hem. Please see the photo after the label shot. Tagged a FR42, GB14, IT46, US10.
Inner bust: 18.25" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 14.75" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: open
Bodice: 18" from the top of the shoulder to the waist and meant to blouse over the waist a bit
Total length: 42" from top of shoulder to hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: MED-LRG
Item# DD4800
Reference Photos: Cruise 2008 Christian Dior. (1) Look 10. Model Chanel Iman. / (2) Look 52. Model Mariya Markina.
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
karl lagerfeld
Spectacular Spring 1993 Karl Lagerfeld Runway Black Dress w Extensive Beading
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The beading technique used on this dress is distinctive and it led us to finding that he did in entire series of dresses in several variations for the Spring 1993 collection. The twin of this dress was a part of the runway show and we have included it here. We also added some other shots from the collection for you to see since these dresses were an integral part of the collection that year. Examples of Karl's work during this time period are held in museums around the world and are rare finds. This is an important piece of his fashion history.
The cut of the dress is simple but it is very sexy with its long silhouette and see through lower skirts. The dress is made out of a black crepe that has a slight bias cut to it that allows it to drape well over the body once on. The strap detailing that crisscrosses over the body, edges the bust area, and is used for the straps that go up and around the neck, are all made from a wide cotton weave looking ribbon that is applied directly onto the dress. Black seed beads were applied onto that ribbon and they catch the light beautifully when you move. The bodice is extensively beaded, sequinned and embroidered. The colours there are bright and brilliant and I love how they give the dress a fantastic pop of colour. The work completely covers each triangle of the front bust and then wraps all the way around the back. The straps are intricate and hook behind the neck and become a design detail in themselves. I love the wrapped illusion created by the way the beading is applied over the dress and how the straps of the neckline continue that feel. The dress skims over the body, following your curves, and then flares out with that inset of silk chiffon for the very lower part of the skirt. It is magic once on an actual body. Excellent condition
Fully lined in a black silk. The lower chiffon part of the skirt is unlined. It closes with a hidden set back zipper and hooks to close at the back of the neck. Hand finishes and beautifully constructed.
Bust: to 18" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 14.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 20" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 58" from neck to hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: MED-LRG
Item# DD4901
Reference Photos/Video: (1-5) Spring 1993 Karl Lagerfeld Runway. / (6-7) Kristen McMenamy for Spring 1993 Karl Lagerfeld Ready to Wear Advance. / (8) Helena Christensen for Spring 1993 Karl Lagerfeld Ad Campaign.
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
yves saint laurent
Spring 1982 Yves Saint Laurent Haute Couture 'Indian Collection' Ivory & Black Tunic/Dress
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The Spring 1982 collection marked the 20th anniversary of Yves' Couture house. In the book Yves Saint Laurent: Catwalk they note that the historical importance of his collection made him feel very anxious. He was quoted as saying "I am frightened of this collection. I am far more anxious than I was for my first collection. It is a reassessment of 20 years… It is the end of adolescence, the beginning of maturity. I really feel like a beginner." But of course, it was a masterpiece of a collection and raved about.
The collection was extravagant and was heavily influenced by India and the beautiful work done by Indian artisans. There was a play on proportions with wide shoulders and a narrowing at the hips. This tunic was one of the more simple pieces in the collection but it still has the touch of an oversized shoulder and the ease and elegance of a beautiful silk in its making.
I love that you can wear this as a tunic over something else. It was shown over a skirt and a modern girl could easily wear it on its own as a dress. It was shown belted with a silk sash in the advance photos for the collection and you could easily add a belt or ribbon if you wanted to have more shape. The shoulders are padded and set a little wide. The sleeves are cut wide through the upper arm and even as they narrow to the wrist, they are still wide set by the cuff. The cuffs and collar are done in a black silk and I love the contrast to the ivory of the body. It is meant to be worn fairly loose and easy to skim over your bust, waist and hips. It falls to about the knee or just above depending on your height. A slit runs up each side and you can see that he has lined the entire inside of the piece in that same black silk as the collar and cuffs. When you walk and move the slits let you to see that flash of black which ties the whole piece together perfectly. The silk is a rich and heavy weight that drapes beautifully over the body. This is a dress that really needs to come to life with a body in it and my dress form photos are nowhere near to doing it justice. It is completely made by hand and an absolutely beautiful, refined and easy piece of true Couture. Excellent condition with a small note below.
Fully lined in a handset black silk and closes at the back with a hand set zipper. Handmade padding in each shoulder. It is completely made by hand to Couture standards. Has it proper YSL numbered Couture label. There is one small mark near the elbow of one sleeve. Please see the photo after the label shot. The easy cut should allow it to fit a range of sizes. On a smaller frame, it will just feel more oversized.
Sleeves: 22.5" and each is 20" around the upper arm
Exaggerated shoulders: 16.5"
Bust: to 19" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: to 19" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 20" flat across from side seam to side seam
Total length: 39" from top of shoulder to hem
Slits: 11.5" from hem up
Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-LRG
Item# DD4913
Reference Photos: Spring 1982 Yves Saint Laurent Couture Advance Preview. Model Kirat Young.
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
christian dior
Spring 2006 Dior by John Galliano Deep Blue Dress w Extensive Silver Beadwork
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John Galliano began his own label in 1984 and he was instantly a bit of a 'boy wonder' in fashion. He was British Fashion Council Designer of the Year in 1987, 1994 and 1995. In 1991 he made his Paris catwalk debut. In 1995 he was asked to head Givenchy and then went to Dior in October of 1996. His work, especially the bias cut pieces that he did, have a feeling of the decadence and abandonment of the twenties and they are beautifully cut. They marry Old Hollywood with the minimalist spirit of the nineties and early 2000s and the results are stunning. This is an amazing example of his work from the Spring 2006 season and it is gorgeous. This dress was a piece made for production for retail but it has all the things we love about his work presented in a beautifully chic and minimalist package. We believe that some of the detailing is based on / loosely inspired by the opening look of the Couture 2006 collection. We have included a photo of that dress for you and you can see similar bead work through the skirt of that dress that has similarity to the pattern of the beads on this dress.
The dress is made out of the deepest possible blue silk crepe chiffon that has a slight bit of texture to it and more opaqueness than a standard chiffon would have. It is completely cut on the bias which is one of his signatures that we all love. The dress falls from the shoulders and then drapes down and over the body to the floor. It is very beautiful. The signature bias cut that he often did allows the dress to skim and drape over you so that is shows every curve but is not overly fitted. The seaming is highly reminiscent of the work you see from the twenties and thirties which became another of John's signatures. The fabric has been pieced together with both curved and angled seams through the bodice and lower skirt especially to create the fantastic lines of the dress that you see. Wide straps extend out from the bust to curve over your shoulders. The front is set in a V and the fabric is gathered across the front of the shoulders. I love the angled cut of the front bodice where he has piece the two side of it together. These are set into a high curving seam that highlights the waist but still stays easy in cut. That seam curves around the back curving upwards there as well. The back is scooped into a low curved open expanse. The straps become smaller and run down the back to join into each side of the lowest part of that curve. An attached panel of silk drapes beautifully down the back in reference to the best of Old Hollywood. The dress glides over the body from there and flares out as it reaches the hem. The widening and length of the back hem is created with angled silk chiffon panels inset into the back skirt. It is an incredible feat of patterning. This creates a longer bit of a train at the back for a bit of a sweeping feel behind you. There is an incredible amount of fabric through the lower skirt which gives you so much movement when you walk. It is stunning. The entire dress to just past the knee is beaded with silver beads mixed with the tiniest silver sequins. These are laid out vertically over the dress in beautiful curving lines that cover the dress. They catch the light from every angle and take the dress to another level. His signature row of tightly spaced buttons run up one side. The dress is even better in person and on the body as the static photos cannot fully convey how a bias cut dress moves. They only truly come to life when worn. It is an incredible example of his work and looks to have been worn very little if at all. Excellent condition
It has a matching silk inner slip dress that loop through a stitch so that they are attached at the top of the inner shoulders. You could easily remove this to get more room if needed. The bias cut should allow it to fit a range of sizes and we have provided the comfortable range of measurements for both it and the outer dress below. It closes at the side with a series of silk covered buttons. Tagged a FR42, GB14, IT46, US10.
Dress
Bust: to 22" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 15-16.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 22.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Total length: approx 59" from the top of the shoulder to the front hem and approx 74" to the back
Inner slip
Bust: to 18" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 15-17" flat across from side seam to side seam
Inner lining at hips: 20" flat across from side seam to side seam
Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-LRG
Item# DD4884
Reference Photo: Fall 2006 Dior Couture, Look 1.
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
christian dior
Spring 2008 Christian Dior by John Galliano Runway Look 53 Red Silk Strapless Dress
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This is without a doubt, one of my favourite dresses from the Spring 2008 collection. Its twin walk the runway for Look 53. This collection marked Dior's 60th anniversary and it was also Johns 10th year with the label. He celebrated those milestones with a show that was a nod to both the archives and Old Hollywood glamour. Pieces were wait-listed worldwide. This dress was also produced in a black for the shops and both versions were produced in very limited quantities. It has also being a favourite on the red carpet and we have included both runway and carpet photos here. It is a spectacular piece for the collector.
The dress is made out of a luxurious red silk. John often chose this weight of silk because of the control it gave him to be able to drape and apply the level of seam work that he loved to do. It is all cut on the bias. The bodice is strapless with an inner boned and cupped corset that holds the dress in place. Silk panels have been draped, gathered and hand stitched into place to create the dramatic sweeping detailing you see at the front. At the back he gathered all of the fabric down and into the centre line to meet in a little peak at the centre of the waist. From there his signature bias cut allows the dress to skim and drape over you so that is shows every curve but is not overly fitted. As in many of his pieces the seaming has the feel of the work you see from the twenties and thirties. The fabric has been pieced together with low dropped angled panels to create the widening of the lower skirt. It flares out at the bottom and at the back it is cut longer so that you get a touch of a sweeping feel behind you as you walk. It is an incredible feat of patterning. A row of signature tightly spaced buttons & loops in the same silk run up one side. John's pieces only truly come to life when worn and as good as this looks on the dress form, it is better once on the body. It is an incredible example of his work and looks to have been worn very little if at all. Excellent condition
Fully lined in a red silk and closes at the side with a series of silk covered buttons. The inner boned and cupped corset hooks to close with two rows of lingerie hooks to choose from. The bias cut gives it some give in the measurements and I've given the comfortable range when the dress is laying flat below. I see a teeny tiny darkened spot near the hem. Hand finishes.
Inner bust: 17-20" flat across from side seam to side seam
Inner waist: 13-15" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 18-22" flat across from side seam to side seam
Total length: 55" from top of the bodice to front hem, 60" to the back hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: MED-LRG
Item# DD4772
Reference Photos/Video: (1-4) Spring 2008 Christian Dior, Look 53. Model Morgane Dubled. / (5) Aishwarya at the IIFA 2008. / (6) Lucy at the People's Choice Awards, 2024.
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.