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The twin of this dress was Look 27 on the Spring 2011 Prada runway. It was the first of three variations of dresses that featured extensive and whimsical embroidery over them along with the beadwork around the hem. The dress was an instant hit. You saw it in editorials, on celebrities and it was used in the ad campaign that season. It is also featured in the book Prada:Catwalk. This dress is noted in particular in that book where it says "a beachy feel came through in those prints again, and in Mexican embroideries across the front of a white sundress. There were shades of Josephine Baker also here, emphasize by the model slick pin curled hair – just the lightest touch of history in case anyone might forget where they were and the deep understanding of culture that entailed. Bar the furs and jangling plastic beads at hems, the clothes in this collection were entirely made from a cotton – sensible, hearty, humble. The collection was extraordinarily bold: an immaculately executed fashion statement that couldn't have been more confident, clear or right for its time." Muiccia herself called it "minimal baroque".
This is a fantastically rare dress and it is exceptional and important part of Prada's history. As noted above, the dress is made of a crisp white cotton. It is adorned with a heavy finish of embroidery to create that print that you see going across the dress is all the way around you. It is suspended from the shoulders by straps made of the same fabric. The dress itself is the simplest of cuts. The front has darts to create a bit of shape around the breast and then it has a touch of a barrel shape through the body. The waist and hips curve outwards and then the hem comes in slightly. The back dips down for an expanse of bare skin to show. A dancer is in full stride with a huge headdress and skirt are a nod to the great Josephine Baker. Bright bold colours swirl across you and around to the back of the dress and the embroidery work is fantastic to see. It has a slight 3D texture as it sits slightly up and off the dress. The hem of the dress is equally as fantastic and has a finish of braided silk cord and large beads that dangle and jangle all the way around the hem. It is just phenomenal. Excellent condition with a small note below.
The dress is fully lined in a white silk chiffon and zips to close at the back. I see one round bead missing at the back and a smudge of a mark near on the lining near the label. It otherwise appears to have been worn very little if at all. The open cut should allow it to fit a range of sizes. It will just fit more over-sized on a smaller frame.
Bust: to 17" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: to 17" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 18.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Total length: 36" from top of shoulders to actual hem, 39" to the bottom of the bead work
Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-MED
Item# DD4939
Reference Photos: (1-5) Spring 2011 Prada, Look 27. Model Daphne Groeneveld. / (6) Spring 2011 Prada Ad Campaign. / (7-8) Bruno Mars and Joan Smalls Photographed by Peter Lindbergh for Vogue, June 2011. / (9) Miroslava Duma in Prada, 2011. / (10) From the book "Prada Catwalk: The Complete Collections" by Susannah Frankel.
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valentino
Spring 2020 Valentino by Pierpaolo Piccioli Runway White 'Le Blanc' Tuxedo Front Dress
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The near twin of this dress walked the runway for the Spring 2020 show for Look 2. It was one of 12 pristine white looks that Pierpaolo opened the show with. When asked about this, he said “I wanted to work on something universal, to get back to the essence of shape and volume,” he said. “So I worked on the idea of the white shirt, but treating it with a couture sensibility.” Vogue called it "a long gulp of fresh air and optimism centered on something known." and noted the nod to the Renaissance in the "starched bibs, shirt collars, billowing sleeves, and ruffs" all of which this dress has in spades. It was also a nod to the 1968 all-white collection by Mr. Valentino. The show ended with a standing ovation for Piccioli.
I love the traditional feeling tuxedo bib front of this dress. It buttons to close down the front with little mother-of-pearl buttons but these are all hidden behind a flat panel of crisp cotton. That contrasts perfectly with the starched waffle weave of the front bib. The collar is small and neat and the entire body is cut to billow out over you in an almost tube shape to the low seam at the hip. On the runway they showed it belted with a braided leather rope belt. That belt was sold separately and to show you how the dress looks belted I have added a little silk chiffon tie belt that I had here. The sleeves are beautifully full. For the cuffs he used that same crisp starched waffle weave cotton. The skirt is in total contrast to the top of the dress and is made from three tiers of feather light silk chiffon that are set exceptionally wide and full. This causes the dress to move around you with the slightest movement. There is another layer of chiffon underneath that to keep it from being completely transparent. It is a beautiful dress from a very special collection. I love how the label specifically denotes it as being from the Le Blanc collection. This dress was sold in two lengths and this one is slightly shorter than the one shown on the runway. Excellent condition.
The dress is unlined and slips over the head to wear. It buttons down the front to the seam where the skirt starts. Each cuff has a single button to close. It is meant to feel oversized through the body and you can cinch it in with a belt or the little silk sash that I will include. Tagged a Valentino 38S. The loose and easy cut should allow it to fit a range of sizes.
Sleeves: 22" from the dropped shoulder seam and are 16.5" around the upper arm
Dropped shoulders: to 19"
Bust: to 20" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: to 20" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips at seam: to 21" flat across from side seam to side seam
Bodice: 25" from neck to seam at top of hips
Total length: 52" from neck to hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-LRG
Item# DD4938
Reference Photos/Video: Spring 2020 Valentino, Look 2.
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christian dior
Spring 2006 Christian Dior by John Galliano Ivory Silk Top & Skirt Set w Flowers
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This is a gorgeous little set that was one that was produced for the shops that season. It is very pretty and has that perfect feel of the work that Galliano was doing for the label during this time period.
I always love finding a pretty little set like this because it just gives you more options to be able to style the pieces. With this particular set you also get the option of wearing the top tucked into the skirt or letting it lay above the skirt's waist-line for a softer feel. Both pieces will also mix and match with other things you already have in your closet. The pieces are made from a pretty silk that has a secondary deeper ivory flower woven into it with a different finishing thread. There are also little medallions of embroidered clusters of flowers as well as a scattering of gold flower and leaves. This gives the fabric in almost antique feel that is gorgeous. The top buttons to close and is suspended from the shoulders by tiny straps that come out from the centre of the top and cross over the upper back on the other side. The top has the feel of a lingerie piece with soft gathered cups and little insets of lace underneath the breasts. Both the top edge of the camisole and the bottom hem are detailed with a lace finish that has a pretty ivory ribbon running through it. It buttons to close up the front. My dress form doesn't have quite enough chest to really have this sit on it properly but it will be better on an actual body. The skirt is a little masterpiece. It has a banded waist for shape and then it is made of several panels placed horizontally on curving bands down the skirt. When you lay it out flat it is tremendously full across the bottom and this is what lets it fall in those pretty folds that you see here. It is a gorgeous little set. Excellent condition.
Both pieces are unlined. The top closes with a series of MOP appearing ,Dior engraved, buttons down the front. The very bottom button is missing. The skirt zips to close with hidden set snaps on the waistband. Tagged an FR36, GB8, IT40, US4
Top
Bust: to 16.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: to 13.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 18" flat across from side seam to side seam
Total Length: 23.5" from top of bodice to waist
Skirt: " from waist to hem
Skirt
Waist: 12.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: open
Total Length: 26" from waist to hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-SML
Item# DD4937
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oscar de la renta
Dreamy Pre-Fall 2015 Oscar de la Renta Look 36 Metallic Gold Applique & Ivory Net Dress
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This is the second time I have had this absolutely gorgeous Oscar de la Renta dress in the shop and I think I love it even more this time. The dress was the final look on the runway for the Pre-Fall 2015 show and it is absolutely stunning. The pieces from this collection feel to me like they have an extra bit of sentiment to them. As Vogue noted in their review. "Pre-Fall 2015 was the last collection he (Oscar de la Renta) had a hand in designing. The house's new creative director, Peter Copping, advised the studio a bit on how to finish it after de la Renta's death in October but this wasn't his debut. Copping sat in the front row taking it all in as a bystander." They continue the review saying, "How does one review a collection like this—one that operates not as a swan song, not as an homage, but as a coda to a great career, now definitively over? On its merits, of course. And though these clothes didn't serve to turn the fashion dial in any way, they manifested the soigné de la Renta signature in spades....It spoke loudest in the collection's clutch of cocktail frocks and gowns, particularly the champagne-toned finale gowns with allover gold or silver embellishment." This is one of those dresses and it is very beautiful.
This is truly a beautiful piece and it would make an amazing wedding dress for the bride looking for a non-traditional choice or as an alternative dress in a more extended wedding celebration. The dress is made from a fine ivory net that is covered in beautiful curving gold metallic appliques that form flowers and pretty patterns over the entire surface of the dress. Each individual applique is made from a pale, muted silver-gold lame fabric sewn that is embroidered all the way around its edges. The lame has a slight vertical ribbing that combines the gold and silver thread and this adds a beautiful texture. I love how they catch the light in a subtle way from every angle. In person the dress has a more metallic and gold feel then how it photographed here. It is tremendously beautiful. It sits wide across the front and the straps are sent to the edge of the shoulder. The bodice curves up and over your shoulders and then at the back it falls in a V for a bit of bare skin to show. All of the edges follow the curving pattern of the applique and I love this little romantic touch. There is an inner lining inside the bodice that has a sweetheart neckline shape to it and then the netting has a touch of transparency above that. It skims over you from there, past the waist to the seam that sits at the top of the hip. From there the skirt explodes outwards in two tiers. Underneath each tier is a layer of tulle and then another layer of netting under that. The second layer has a stiffened edge to help hold the shape of the skirting. Then inside the skirt itself there is a built-in underskirt that has multiple rows of that same stiffened fabric so it holds the volume that you see in the photos. I have added no extra crinolines underneath the dress to take these photos. All of the volume that you see is all built into the dress already. The dress is cut shorter at the front and then the back is cut so that it trails out behind you past the floor. The lightness of the tulle and netting allows the dress to billow out around you when you walk. This is dress that feels like a fairy tale come true once it is on the body. It appears to have never been worn or worn very little. Excellent condition.
The skirt is fully lined in layers of tulle and netting as described above. The bodice has an inner layer of silk and netting. The dress closes with a hidden set back zipper. Tagged a modern OLDR US2
Bust: to 16.5" flat across from side seam to side seam with room at the front for at least a B cup
Waist: 13" flat across from side seam to side seam
Seam at the top of the hips: 18" flat across from side seam to side seam
Natural hips: open
Bodice: 19" from top of the shoulder to the seam at the top of the hip
Total length: 49" from top of the shoulder to the front hem, 80" to the back
Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-MED
Item# DD4933
Reference Photos: Pre-Fall 2015 Oscar de la Renta, Look 36.
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This dress is a production piece based on the similar sequin work done for Look 41 of the Fall 2022 collection. Vogue said that the show was his darkest and most unnerving show to date, as well as his most ravishing. Pieces focused mainly on nightwear. I love that when the collection went to production he made this dress very easy to wear for most, but still added the touches and feel from the runway to give it that dose of high glamour.
This is a truly gorgeous dress. The fabric is a creamy almost nude silk organza that is lined with a silk crepe in the same colour so that it is opaque enough to wear even while giving the illusion of being quite bare from a distance. Onto the top layer he has added large sequin flowers on trailing stalks and these have been applied over the entire dress from shoulder to hem. The flowers are made from silver and pewter sequins that are set to overlap each other so that they sit up and off the dress to create a slight 3D feel that is fantastic. In the centre of each flower is a cluster of prong set glass rhinestones that are a mix of sizes and colours. The colours ranging from a clear glass, to a smoky grey topaz, a bright clear blue, and black. The effect this creates is just absolutely stunning when you see the dress as a whole. The sequins catch the light from every angle. The neckline is scooped and the shoulders are soft. The sleeves are long and simple so that the sequin work on them takes centre stage. It is cut to skim over the bust with just a little bit of shaping through the waist. It curves over the hips and then falls to the floor from there. It is cut with a little extra fabric at the back of the skirt for a sweeping feel behind you. It is like wearing a bouquet from head to toe but one that is slightly edgy feel. It is absolutely lovely. In its original uncut length and appears to have been worn very little if at all. Excellent condition
Fully lined in a matching silk crepe and closes at the back with a hidden set zipper. Tagged a modern UK12, US8, IT44, FR40
Sleeves: 25" and are 13" around the upper arm
Shoulders: 16.5"
Bust: 19" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 16" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 23" flat across from side seam to side seam
Bodice: 15.5" from top of shoulder to waist
Total length: 63.5" from top of shoulder to hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: MED-LRG
Item# DD4923
Reference Photos: Fall 2022 Erdem, Look 41.
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The twin of this spectacular dress walk the runway for Fall 1998 and Mr. Valentino obviously thought it was one of the best pieces in the show as he also used it for the ad campaign that year. It is spectacularly beautiful and like many Valentino pieces, as you get closer to it you really start to see all of the incredible details it has. He was a man who lived in the fine details on even the simplest looking pieces and this dress is a beautiful example of what he could create. It is phenomenal and I love it.
The dress is suspended by two little lace covered straps that curve up and over your shoulders. The top of the bodice is cut straight across and that continues around to the back. The bodice is covered in a layer of fine black French lace that is layered over an inner ivory silk. and then that has a layer of fine ivory netting over that. This softens the black of the lace underneath and acts as a diffusion of the black colour underneath for a more romantic feel. The bodice is simple in feel and ends at a seam set just a touch above the natural waist. A dense one inch high band of the tiniest black seed beads are set just above the seam and then the beads continue up onto that top net layer. They are scattered over the bodice and getting more spaced apart as they go upwards over you. Under that band of bead work is a dense silk eyelash fringe that sits up and off of the dress from this incredible tactile effect. More of those tiny black seed beads have been scattered throughout the fringe. I have taken several close-ups so that you can see just how incredible this workmanship is. The skirt falls under that to the floor and it is made up of three more tiers of this same lace, silk fringe, silk net and bead work. Each tier overlaps the one below it. Each has that same net overlay as the bodice but he let it sit more as a separate layer rather than an attached one like it is on the bodice. So that softening effect is greater on the skirt and it also adds a little more volume than you see through the bodice. It is very subtle but this is where he just excels in the detailing. The edge of each layer is finished in the same manner of bead work, and that ivory silk fringe. When you move all of the layers softly move around you. It is very beautiful and an exceptional piece of Valentino history. Excellent condition.
Fully lined in a white silk through the bodice and a silk crêpe through the skirt. I see a couple small layers where the lace has broken on the straps, but it's minor. Some very minor grubbiness to the edge of the inner hem. It otherwise appears to have been worn very little if at all. Tagged a vintage Valentino 8.
Bust: 17.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 15" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 21" flat across from side seam to side seam
Bodice: 15" from top of shoulder to waist
Total length: 65" from top of shoulder to hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: MED-LRG
Item# DD4924
Reference Photos: (1-3) Fall 1998 Valentino Runway Collection. / (4) Fall 1998 Valentino Ad Campaign.
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This is a spectacular dress that has no label and could very well be a one off. I can't help but think that it was inspired by the stunning dress worn by Hedy Lamarr in the 1941 film Ziegfeld Girl. This would make a spectacular event dress and would absolutely be a phenomenal piece for a bride.
The upper bodice of the dress is made from a deep nude coloured netting done in a double layer. Onto this is a white netting that has gold flowers woven through it. Rhinestones are scattered over the entire bodice and run down and around the waist. The neckline is made from four flowers cut out and wrapped around the neck. It is meant to skim over the bust and waist and then the skirt falls from under that to the floor. The skirt widens out substantially as it nears the hem which gives you beautiful movement when you walk and move. The entire lower hem of the skirt is finished with more of the same rhinestones that are scattered across the bodice. It is gorgeous. The sleeves are spectacular. Each sleeve falls from the shoulder all the way to past the hem of the dress. They are cut very wide and are open to give them a cape feel. Each one is finished along the bottom hem with a row of ostrich feathers in a deep ivory. This is a clever way to add some weight to the bottom of the sleeve and also add spectacular movement. When I say they are wide by the bottom of the hem, I mean it. I measured and each one is just under 8 feet across. Each sleeve is detailed with more of the rhinestones along with more cut outs of the gold and white flowers set along the vertical lengths on each side of the sleeve. It is beautifully elaborate and over the top. This is the type of piece that you will only ever find in vintage. It is spectacular. Excellent condition
The dress is lined in an ivory silky rayon through the skirt and a the same nude netting through the bodice. It closes with a zipper at the back. The zipper has a slight sticky feel to it, but it is original and works perfectly fine so I have left it. Otherwise it appears to have been worn very little.
Sleeves: 60" plus the feathers go past the hem a few inches
Shoulders: 16"
Bust: to 19.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: to 15.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: open
Bodice: approx 15.5" from neck to waist
Total length: 59" from neck to hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: MED-LRG
Item# DD4918
Reference photos: Cherie, Owner of Shrimpton Couture, by Erin Leydon.
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
valentino
Spring 2016 Valentino by Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli Ivory Beaded Nude Silk Chiffon Dress
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A long sleeve version of this dress walked the runway for Look 88 in the Spring 2016 runway. This is a dress that is truly a work of art. In 2016 Valentino was headed by both Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli. They had stepped into Mr Valentino's shoes and were breathing new life into the brand. The show was based on Africa as its inspiration and at this period of time the world was watching refugees attempting the journey to Italy. In the Vogue review for this collection Maria and Pierpaulo were quoted as saying; 'We probably feel that the greatest privilege in doing our work is that fashion can give a message,” said Chiuri. “We think every person coming here is an individual, and we can show that we can improve ourselves by understanding other cultures.'... 'The message,' added Piccioli, 'is tolerance. And the beauty that comes out of cross-cultural expression.' Many of the pieces fused both Italian and African traditions , 'They met in the textiles' they stated. This dress was one of the most stunning looks of the show and the combination of netting and ivory bead work it was made out of made it one of the most beautiful.
The lines of this dress are wonderfully simple and yet it still feels glamorous with the head-to-toe bead work. It is a dress that it is even better in person and on an actual body. As with many Valentino pieces the dress has a bit of a bias cut to it through the body so draped wonderfully once on. The dress is made from a nude silk netting with another layer of that netting backing it. When it went to the shops it was sold with a matching nude silk chiffon slip and this lets you wear it either with the slip so that you are opaque through the body, or if you dare, you can wear it without and then you have that amazing transparency between the bead work. The dress is completely beaded from the top of the shoulders to the hem. It is very beautiful. The neckline is high and I love how he created a bit of a ruffled effect there with the netting and beads. It skims over your bust, past the waist and starts to widen out over the hips. From there it falls to the floor. The skirt gently widens out as it nears the hem. The dress is in its original uncut length. The bead work that covers the dress is stunning. It is set to highlight the lines of the dress and combines curves with more angular patterns. That front panel that starts just below the waist is done in tiers of the same little ruffled netting and bead work that you see around the neck. This falls all the way to just past the hem and it adds the perfect softness and added texture to the dress. The beads are a combination of tiny matte finished ivory seed beads and iridescent ivory tube beads. It is a beautiful and glamorous dress that is red carpet worthy and would make an amazing wedding dress for the bride looking for a non-traditional choice or as an alternative dress in a more extended wedding celebration. And of course it could also be worn to any big event. It appears to have never been worn or worn very little. Excellent condition
The dress is backed in a second layer of the nude netting and it comes with a separate silk chiffon slip. It closes with a hidden set back zipper and the slip slips over the head to wear. I see one tiny mark on the inner slip. It otherwise appears to have never been worn and has its original hang tags. The netting has a bit of a bias cut to it and I have put the comfortable range of measurements below when laying flat. Tagged a modern 40. The original price tag would have been well over $20,000 even then. It is spectacular in person.
Dress
Sleeves: are 12" around the opening
Shoulders: 14.5-15"
Bust: 16-17.5" across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 16-16.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 20" flat across from side seam to side seam
Total length: 61" from neck to hem and the front ruffled panel falls about an inch past that
Slip
Bust: to 19.5" across from side seam to side seam
Waist: to 19" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 23" flat across from side seam to side seam
Total length: 59.5" from top of shoulder to hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-SML
Item# DD4917
Reference Photos/Video: (1-5) Spring 2016 Valentino, Look 88. Model Liza Ostanina. / (6) Franca Sozzani at the Vogue Fashion Dubai Experience, 2015.
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
yves saint laurent
Spring 1982 Yves Saint Laurent Haute Couture 'Indian Collection' Ivory & Black Tunic/Dress
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The Spring 1982 collection marked the 20th anniversary of Yves' Couture house. In the book Yves Saint Laurent: Catwalk they note that the historical importance of his collection made him feel very anxious. He was quoted as saying "I am frightened of this collection. I am far more anxious than I was for my first collection. It is a reassessment of 20 years… It is the end of adolescence, the beginning of maturity. I really feel like a beginner." But of course, it was a masterpiece of a collection and raved about.
The collection was extravagant and was heavily influenced by India and the beautiful work done by Indian artisans. There was a play on proportions with wide shoulders and a narrowing at the hips. This tunic was one of the more simple pieces in the collection but it still has the touch of an oversized shoulder and the ease and elegance of a beautiful silk in its making.
I love that you can wear this as a tunic over something else. It was shown over a skirt and a modern girl could easily wear it on its own as a dress. It was shown belted with a silk sash in the advance photos for the collection and you could easily add a belt or ribbon if you wanted to have more shape. The shoulders are padded and set a little wide. The sleeves are cut wide through the upper arm and even as they narrow to the wrist, they are still wide set by the cuff. The cuffs and collar are done in a black silk and I love the contrast to the ivory of the body. It is meant to be worn fairly loose and easy to skim over your bust, waist and hips. It falls to about the knee or just above depending on your height. A slit runs up each side and you can see that he has lined the entire inside of the piece in that same black silk as the collar and cuffs. When you walk and move the slits let you to see that flash of black which ties the whole piece together perfectly. The silk is a rich and heavy weight that drapes beautifully over the body. This is a dress that really needs to come to life with a body in it and my dress form photos are nowhere near to doing it justice. It is completely made by hand and an absolutely beautiful, refined and easy piece of true Couture. Excellent condition with a small note below.
Fully lined in a handset black silk and closes at the back with a hand set zipper. Handmade padding in each shoulder. It is completely made by hand to Couture standards. Has it proper YSL numbered Couture label. There is one small mark near the elbow of one sleeve. Please see the photo after the label shot. The easy cut should allow it to fit a range of sizes. On a smaller frame, it will just feel more oversized.
Sleeves: 22.5" and each is 20" around the upper arm
Exaggerated shoulders: 16.5"
Bust: to 19" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: to 19" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 20" flat across from side seam to side seam
Total length: 39" from top of shoulder to hem
Slits: 11.5" from hem up
Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-LRG
Item# DD4913
Reference Photos: Spring 1982 Yves Saint Laurent Couture Advance Preview. Model Kirat Young.
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
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In the book Chanel: Catwalk they called this collection "Concrete Baroque" because of the innovative use of concrete within the collection. A material you definitely do not normally associate with Couture. The set was minimal and was inspired by a penthouse owned by the eccentric art collector Carlos de Beistegui in the 1930s. That penthouse featured an outdoor fireplace with a circular mirror set against a concrete wall and Karl incorporated that into the set. 'I like the idea of baroque elements and modern touches. This is the theme of the collection concrete with Baroque elements – la corbusier goes to Versailles'.
What is remarkable about this collection is that actual concrete was used throughout the pieces in the collection. It was formed into miniature tiles and used as embroidery, jewellery, buttons, braiding and mesh. In the recent Netflix show on the 90s, it is noted by Andrew Bolton, the Met Museum Director, that the process took about four years to develop. Lagerfeld stated that he 'liked the idea of using materials you wouldn't normally use for Haute Couture.'
The book also notes that several dresses were directly moulded from neoprene. Lagerfeld joked that this was 'Couture without seams'. This twin of this dress was Look 36 in the show. It was shown with a little vest over it that my client did not purchase. The pieces were sold separately. This is a modern day masterpiece and an exceptional dress from this collection.
The dress is made from neoprene as noted below and it is almost devoid of seams with only curved darts at the bust besides the bare minimal seams needed to construct the dress. The colour is a very pale ivory and has perhaps a touch more ivory than how it photoed. The hundreds of little square beads that you see are indeed that concrete material as mentioned above. They circle around the neck, the hem, run around each cuff and define the waist. A band of them runs down the front and the back and he has used them to create the idea of two little pockets on each side of the hip. They held into place by silver thread. Each individual tile was cut by hand and then carefully drilled with a small hole to allow the silver thread to be passed through it. Each would have been applied by hand. Again, it took four years to develop the technology to be able to pull this off. The dress is completely assembled by hand and it is lined with a beautiful silk lining. The proper Chanel label and numbered tape underneath is in place. This would be an exceptional dress for a bride who doesn't want to wear something traditional or perhaps as a piece for an event around a wedding weekend. And of course it would be a highlight of any Chanel collection. Excellent condition with a minor note below.
Fully lined in a hand set ivory silk and closes with a hidden set back zipper. There is a very small bit of pilling here and there, but it is extremely minor. All of the concrete tiles appeared to be fully intact and present. The Couture tape is under the Chanel couture label. It is exceptional.
Sleeves: 8" and are 12" around
Shoulders: 15"
Bust: to 17.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: to 16" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 20.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Total length: 33" from top of shoulder to hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED
Item# DD4912
Reference Photos/Video: Fall 2014 Chanel Couture, Look 36. Model Charlotte Coquelin.
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
chanel
Beautiful Cruise 2012 Chanel by Karl Lagerfeld Runway Look 8 Ivory Suit w Sequins
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For the Cruise 2012 Karl booked the entire Hotel du Cap in Eden Roc on the French Riviera so that he had it at his full disposal for the show. This is remarkable in that it is arguably one of the most expensive hotels in the entire world. The show is also of note because he accessorized all the pieces with real diamonds and pearls. Vogue noted that he said "too much may not be enough" when asked about this extravagance. The twin of the suit walked the runway for Look 8 and was adorned with diamonds on the pockets and at the neck. It was sent to the shop with a beautiful crystal rhinestone and faux pearl button at the top of the neck and left to the clients to add their own personal diamonds.
This collection was a nod to old-school glamour and you can see that in the beautiful lines of the suit. It is constructed from an absolutely stunning ivory version of the Chanel signature boucle fabric. The weave is very tight and it is one single ivory colour. It has little bits of silver thread woven through it. These glitter in the light in this very subtle and beautiful kind of way. I know the still photos are not properly capturing it but in person it is magical. The collar is soft and rounded with a raw finish to its edges and then it is covered with the tiniest possible ivory sequins. He added another band of sequins under the collar to circle the inner shoulders near the neckline. A little jewelled clasp sits at the top of the neck that has crystal rhinestones and large faux pearls with the double C logo on their sides. I love the nod to the 1940s this little jewelled detail has and how it picks up on that old Hollywood glamour theme. The sleeves end at about the wrist depending on the length of your arms. The jacket has a beautiful curving seam at the front and two top set pockets. I photoed the jacket open as it was shown on the runway but there is one single little hidden snap so that you can close the jacket more if you wished. A second curved seam sits at the back. The construction is absolutely beautiful. Inside it has a Camellia flower embossed silk lining and a silver chain is hand sewn along the inner hem. The skirt is as beautifully cut as the jacket. It has a curved band around the waist and pockets on either side of the hip. It curves out to skim over the hips and then comes in at the bottom. There is a wide 7" band of the same fabric circling the bottom hem. He added a back vent that has three beautiful buttons and you could open those if you wished. The set comes with the matching belt that you see on the runway. The belt follows the same curve of the waist band. It hooks in place and it is completely covered on both sides with more of those tiny little ivory iridescent sequins. This is an exceptional Chanel. It would make a great bridal piece for the bride not looking for something traditional or as a piece for an event surrounding the ceremony. Excellent condition.
The jacket is fully lined in an ivory silk embossed with the Chanel camellia flower print and has a clasp at the neck and a hidden set snap halfway down. The skirt is lined in an ivory silk and closes with a hidden set zipper. The belt hooks to close. It appears to have been worn very little if at all. All three pieces are tagged a Chanel 38. The very subtle bit of metallic silver thread that runs with through the boucle is more apparent in person.
The Chanel boucle is created with their proprietary method of weaving that they themselves describe as "by weaving the warp and weft, using a variety of different kinds of threads which creates a unique and somewhat irregular appearance. The warp – vertically strung – is the background of the fabric, the base that will support the assembly of materials. There can be up to 12 different threads used for a single warp. The weft – woven horizontally – gives the fabric its unique character and can have an unlimited number of threads. Tight, perforated, textured, thick, with a relief, plaited, random, twill… the potential number of effects is endless".
Jacket
Sleeve: approx 21" from the natural shoulder and is 17.25" from the dropped shoulder scene. They are 14.5" around the upper arm
Dropped shoulders: 19"
Bust: 17" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 17" flat across from side seam to side seam
Bottom hem: 18" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 21.5" from neck to hem
Skirt
Waist: 13" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 17.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 27" from waist to hem
Belt: It currently hooks to close at 28" and you could move the hooks if needed. it is 30" in total from end to end.
Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-SML
Item# DD4911
Reference Photo/Video: Resort 2012 Chanel, Look 8. Model Sigrid Agren.
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
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I have had this tucked away in my archives for quite some time and it is spectacular. This is a gorgeous little skirt and halter top set that is a fabulous example of how unique her work could be. Of all of Thea's pieces are so special. Many were one-offs or were made in very limited quantities. She often thrifted and sourced odd bits of fabric and seemed to design with things that caught her fancy rather than have a solid theme season to season. Everyone who was anyone wore her work back in the day, including Elizabeth Taylor who was a huge fan and collector. This set is just spectacular and it is a very special piece.
These skirt and cropped top sets really showcase what the seventies flower power / hippie movement was all about. This set is especially fascinating with its screened wildlife covering both pieces and then the corresponding text that feels like it is from an encyclopedia explaining the different animals shown. The top is a simple halter type top that hooks into place behind the neck and then the bottom wraps and ties around you. When off the body you see that it is one elongated triangle with a strap that goes around the neck and then on each side the fabric extends out into long ties. I shot it with the ties at the back so you could get the full impact of the print on both pieces but you could also choose to wrap the ties to the front. The ties also lets you control how short or long it sits on the torso. You can wrap and roll the fabric so it sits higher or you can leave it where you see it in these photos. The skirt is equally as easy to wear. It has no band at the waist so that the text and photos printed on it are not broken up in anyway. It widens out dramatically to the hem from there. I took a photo of it laying out flat so you can see how wide the bottom hem ends up being. The fabric is a cotton that is a decent weight so that the shape is held. The combination of text and what looks like hand painted animals, but are actually screened into the fabric, is fantastic. It is gorgeous and I love that because it is two pieces you can mix and match it with other things in your existing wardrobe. This was almost certainly a one off and very rare. Excellent condition
Both the top and skirt are unlined. The top is as described above. The skirt zips to close. Both pieces appear to have been worn very little if at all.
Top
It is flexible in size since it wraps and ties and has coverage across the front. The front halter is 17" from side to side with no true side seams and is 13.25" long from neck to bottom.
Neck: 14" from end to end
Skirt
Waist: 12.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 20" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 41.5" from waist to hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED
Item# DD4898
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
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Each piece that John Anthony made was on a made-to-order basis, which means that each piece is the only one that exists, or in the very occasional circumstance that there are similar pieces made, only a very limited amount of pieces were done. All of the pieces I currently have in the shop come directly from John's archive.
He is one of the great American couturiers and he was known for his sharp tailoring and striking evening wear. He launched his atelier in 1971 and he quickly rose to fame, winning a Coty award in 1972 and then again in 1976. This is the original sample of this piece from his archives. We found a series of photos of pieces with the same bead work so you can get an idea of how beautiful they are on the body.
The dress is made out of a feather light deep brown silk chiffon. Glass tube beads are set in vertical rows over both pieces and all of the beads have been applied by hand in perfect little rows onto the silk. I love how they catch the light from every angle. Both pieces have a simple and easy cut so that they are easy to wear and are very flattering on the body. The neckline is scooped and closes with a hook and eye at the back of the neck above a keyhole. The sleeves have the same bead detailing and then they fall in a straight cut to the wrist for a touch of fullness. The bodice is cut to skim loosely over you to the waist. The waist is finished with elastic which lets the silk pouf under a touch. The skirt has a banded waist and falls to the floor under that. It flares out a touch as it nears the hem. It has a high slit on one side for a flash of leg to show. They are gorgeous when worn together. The work has all been done by hand and the workmanship is fantastic. They fall like a dream once on the body. Excellent condition with a minor note below
Fully lined in a second layer of nude silk chiffon. The top closes with a hook and eye above a keyhole at the back of the neck and has elastic at the bottom seam. The skirt closes with hook and eye at the waist and a zipper under that. A tiny area of missing beads here and there but nothing major. Please see the photo after the label shot. The sample tag is stitched inside the cuff of one sleeve.
Top
Sleeves: 23"
Shoulders: 14.5"
Bust: to 20" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: to 21" flat across from side seam to side seam
Bottom seam: 14-20" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 27" from neck to hem
Skirt
Waist: 12" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 20.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 45" from waist to hem
Slit: 27" from hem up
Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-SML
Item# DD4571
Reference Photos: Fall 1981 John Anthony Ready to Wear Advance Preview.
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
alexander mcqueen
Important Fall 2006 Alexander McQueen 'The Widows of Culloden' Runway Look 32 Net & Lace Dress
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McQueen's Fall 2006's collection was called The Widows of Culloden and it was dedicated to his muse and friend Isabella Blow. The Alexander McQueen site says of this collection: "The inspiration here is highly personal – the designer’s own heritage – which goes at least some way towards explaining the exquisite hand-craftsmanship that goes into each piece as well, of course, as bird head-dresses and McQueen tartan. The collection is luxurious and romantic but melancholic and even austere at the same time. The silhouette – all nipped waists, bustles and exaggerated hip lines – is designed to exaggerate a woman’s form and each piece is unique, a one-off couture creation with emotional content intended to be handed down from generation to generation like the most precious of heirlooms." This was also the show where Kate Moss made the famous glass box closing look. Vogue described that feat by saying; "Only Alexander McQueen could provide the astonishing feat of techno-magic that ended his show. Inside an empty glass pyramid, a mysterious puff of white smoke appeared from nowhere and spun in midair, slowly resolving itself into the moving, twisting shape of a woman enveloped in the billowing folds of a white dress. It was Kate Moss, her blonde hair and pale arms trailing in a dream-like apparition of fragility and beauty that danced for a few seconds, then shrank and dematerialized into the ether." They went on to talk about the collection saying; "The quality of the performance—and the extraordinary workmanship in the clothes that preceded it—was a timely reconfirmation of McQueen's unique powers as a showman-designer, and a far cry from the more straightforward presentations he¿s given the last few seasons. For this collection, he delved into his past, revisiting his Scottish family roots and refining the contents of the rampaging tartan "Highland Rape" show with which he began his career in London in the early nineties. Shorn of its original rawness and anger, the result was a poetic and technically accomplished tale that involved romantic images of Scottish fantasy heroines wandering glens and castle halls in vaguely Victorian tartan crinolines, bird-wing or antler-and-lace headdresses, feathered gowns, and pieces made from brocades that might have been dragged down from ancient wall-hangings." I have also included a shot from one of the McQueen book pages that tells more on the show. This was one of his most extraordinary shows and this dress is the twin of Look 32 worn by Freja in that show. It is fabulous.
This is an incredibly rare piece of McQueen history and may even make a dress for a bride looking to go the non-traditional route or as part of a wedding weekend. And of course it is something that any McQueen collector would be thrilled to own.
I love this dress. It is basically an elaborate silk net tulle piece that sits over an inner ivory silk chiffon lining. Over that he has added embroidered lace panels in black that have all been placed by hand. The dress is incredibly full and voluminous. The bodice is meant to skim over you and the neckline of the tulle overlay is set scooped under the neck. There is a scooped bodice built in underneath that has been stiffened for shaping. Having the net extend up and to the shoulder allowed him to also place the embroidery up and over the shoulder, giving the illusion that it is somehow suspended over you from a distance. The trailing panels of black embroidered flowers contrast beautifully over the deep ivory netting underneath. The waist is seamed and set just above the natural waist line. The embroidery trails past the seam to soften the line. The waist is cut on the more wide and generous side which helps to create the shape he wanted the dress to have. The skirt has yards and yards of tulle with two more layers under the top layer and over the inner silk lining. The embroidery work is even more spectacular around the skirt going all the way around you. I love how it becomes very dense and heavy by the hem and then it trails upwards towards the bodice. It is incredibly beautiful and the pictures do not convey how magical it is in person. It feels like wearing a magical cloud of tulle. Alexander McQueen was incredibly gifted and this dress really shows the extent of his talent. It was one of my favourite dresses at the show. Excellent condition with a small note below
Fully lined in an ivory silk chiffon and closes at the back with a button at the back of the neck and a hidden side zipper under the waist line. I see a couple small breaks in the netting and it looks like there are some minor repairs done near the waist seam. I have photo them all and I've been very picky because it presents as perfect once on. It's beautiful.
Bust: to 16.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: to 14" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: open
Bodice: 11" from top of shoulder to waist
Total length: 43" from top of shoulder to hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-SML
Item# DD4851
Reference Photos/Video: (1-3) Fall 2006 Alexander McQueen, Look 32. Model Freja Beha Erichsen. / (4) From the book "Alexander McQueen" by Abrams and edited by Claire Wilcox.
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
givenchy
Amazing 2018 Givenchy by Clare Waight Keller White & Ivory Dress w Bead Edged Angel Sleeves
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This dress was a production piece made for the shops from what we can tell and I absolutely love it. I love Clare Waight Keller's time as Creative Director for Givenchy. She designed many beautiful dresses during her time at the label and this is one of them. It is a show stopper. The fact that it is easy to wear is just bonus. This would make an amazing wedding dress for a bride or could be an alternative dress in a more extended wedding celebration. And of course it could also be worn to any fabulous and glamorous event.
The dress is amazing. It is made out of a light weight slightly off-white silk crepe through the lower part of the dress and then the bodice and those amazing sleeves are a slightly lighter weight ivory silk chiffon over an inner silk crepe base. The neckline is scooped high at the front and the bodice is cut to skim over you to the waist. The waist is more on the easy side to have a bit of a sheath feel. The hips curve out slightly for a pretty silhouette. From there it falls to the floor and the skirt widens out quite a bit by the time it reaches the hem. At the back there is extra fabric on either side of the centre seam so that you get a bit of a flare of the lower skirt there. The sleeves are the star of the show on this dress. The silk chiffon of the bodice extends out from the shoulder and from the seam at the waist into wide full sleeves that fall over your arms. They continue at the same width to their ends and this allows them to cascade down your arm in the most spectacular fashion. They are open underneath which creates tremendous movement when you move. The slightest bit of air lets them billow around you. To add weight and a little touch of glamour she has added dangling little clear beads all around the edges of the lower portion of the sleeves and around where it goes over your wrist. It is the perfect subtle touch of high glamour for the dress. The dress appears to have never been worn and it is in its original extra long supermodel length. It is absolutely amazing. Excellent condition with a minor note below.
Fully lined in an ivory silk and closes at the back with a hidden set zipper. The dress is in its original length and appears to have never been worn. I do see some slight grubbiness around the hem. Tagged a modern Givenchy 40
Sleeves: approx 34" to their longest point
Shoulders: no true defined
Bust: to 17.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 15" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 20" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 62" from top of the shoulder to hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED
Item# DD4840
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
alexander mcqueen
Incredible Spring 2012 Alexander McQueen by Sarah Burton Gold Lace Dress w Full Lower Skirting
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Lace was one of the primary fabrics that Sarah Burton used for the Spring 2012 collection and Vogue reported that "She based her collection on the three Gs: Grès for the pleating and draping, Gaudí for the architecture, and Gaia for the sense of all-encompassing oceanic life that infused the clothes, like the outfits composed of coral or shells." They went on to remark on the beautiful pastels and golds used saying "this collection proved how hot-wired into the core of McQueen Burton truly is. The colour palette—as translucent as the inside of a shell—had the kind of unambiguous prettiness that McQueen himself might have felt inclined to disrupt in some way". The twin of this stunning dress in black was featured in the Spring 2012 collection Lookbook sent out to select retailers. Pink wore one in black for an editorial shoot and Du Juan wore one on the red carpet. I love it in the gold. It is so striking.
The dress is stunning and it might even make for a spectacular bridal dress or to be worn for the events surrounding a wedding weekend or as a gala / event piece. It is made out of a muted gold lace that tops a pale nude silk underneath. The dress is cut to follow the curves of the body from the top of the neckline to below the hips but in a way that doesn't feel overly tight or confining. It just curves over the body in the best possible way. The neckline is a scooped and the bodice is shaped to flow over your curves. The waist is a touch on the more easy side and you could easily add a wide corset belt to get the effect you see in the reference photos and really cinch it in. It curves over the hips to about the knee and then the lower skirts explode out from there. Insets of the same lace with masses of a silk organza underskirt are set all the way around the skirt. If you lay the lower skirt out flat it has more volume than a full circle. This is what creates those incredible rounded effect and the volume that you see in the photos. We did not add any additional underskirts on this dress. All of that sweeping volume is all built in. It also creates beautiful movement as you move. You can see in the photos that the back is cut slightly longer then the front so you get this beautiful sweeping effect behind you as you walk. It is so special and absolutely stunning. This is Sarah at her best. Excellent condition.
Fully lined in a pale nude silk for the body of the dress and then silk organza through the lower skirts. It closes with a hidden set back zipper. It appears to have been worn very little if at all. Tagged McQueen 42.
Bust: to 18" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 15" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 18" flat across from side seam to side seam
Total length: 63" from top of bodice to front hem, 66" to the longest point of the back hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED
Item# DD4824
Reference Photos: (1) Spring 2012 Alexander McQueen Lookbook. / (2-3) Pink, in McQueen, photographed by Andrew MacPherson, Feb 2012. / (4) Du Juan in McQueen at the Deja Vu Screening, June 2012.
Beautiful 1910 Unlabeled Heirloom Ivory Net Wedding Dress w Elaborate Sequin & Bead Work
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This is an extraordinary little dress and I'm very pleased to have the exact date of it because my clients grandmother wore it to her wedding on October 15, 1910. By all accounts it was a long and happy marriage and my client hopes that this dress will pass on that love to its next owner.
This extraordinary dress was completely made by hand and is very feminine and beautiful. It is a wonderful example of the level of craftsmanship being utilized during this time period. It has survived the passing of time exceedingly well and was carefully stored all of these many decades. The base of the dress is made from a fine and light netting and it is this fabric choice that has allowed it to remain strong and sturdy over the years. The colour is a beautiful ivory that was almost impossible to capture and in real life it has a slightly more pastel feel to it that I think is just lovely. Onto this is an intricate design made of glass tube beads and little iridescent sequins that highlight the design and lines of the dress. The front neckline is in a soft scoop, and the back angles into a bit of a V above a row of snaps that close the dress. The sleeves extend out and are gathered along the top of the shoulders for a pretty little detail. They're open on their underside and the sequins and beads follow the pattern to circle the neckline and edge the sleeves. A wide band of sequins and beads detail the waist, and then the dress falls in a pretty cascade of the netting to just past the knee or a bit below depending on your height. A floral pattern is worked throughout the dress, and the workmanship is exquisite. Hangs lower than the front so you have a bit of a swooping feeling. There's a touch of light boning around the inner waist to hold the dress perfectly in place while it's on you. The placement of each and every embellishment is by hand and it is amazing to think of the time it would have taken to create this extensive design. The combination of the soft and romantic ivory net and the beautiful floral patterns that runs over it is absolutely fantastic. This would be an amazing dress for a collector or a bride who wants to incorporate a bit of the past into part of her celebration. Excellent condition
The dress is unlined with snaps at the back to close. Some of the snaps appear newer than others. The fabric appears to be strong and is wearable with the care. Perhaps the tiniest mark here and there and tiny break in the net but for something over 100 years old I would rate it as being in excellent antique condition.
Bust: 16-18" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 12-12.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 23" flat across from side seam to side seam
Bodice: 13" from the top of the shoulder to the top of the 3" band at the waist
Total length: 46" from the top of the shoulder to the shortest part of the front hem, 51" to the back hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-SML
Item# DD4804
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
john galliano
Important & Rare Spring 1988 John Galliano 'Blanche Dubois' Collection Skirt
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This is a very rare piece of vintage and it is a delight to have it in the shop. It is from the 1988 Spring / Summer "Blanche Dubois" collection. The show had a total of 96 looks in it. My client purchased this right after the show and has had it since. The inspiration for this collection was Tennessee Williams 1947 heroin from the play "A Streetcar Named Desire" combined with the idea of the English country lady. An integral part of the collection were the way that he had the hems of the skirts and some sleeves done. He described then as "blown away" hems. Galliano had given his pattern cutters a book on origami and asked them to incorporate the feel of it into the clothing. He wanted the hems to look as though it had been blown up in the wind hence the name "blown away." Interior buttons and button holes along the hems were added to allow the skirts to achieve the draped bubbled effect that you see here and in the reference photos. The collection was critically acclaimed and it was his most commercially successful to date. US Vogue noted that he went from fashion cult to pacesetter with this collection.
When we photoed the skirt we did it to show how you can change the look of the hem depending on if you choose to button the buttons up, or leave them undone. there are many configurations that you can do, including buttoning some of the button holes onto the same buttons inside or leaving them all undone and having a longer length skirt. Another key component of the show where these extremely high waists that you would then put a large belt around. My client told me that she often wore this as a strapless dress as well and if you are small enough through the bust to do so, you can have that added option. There is boning through the sides of the waist that help to hold it up and in place. The amount of fabric that the skirt has, and that unusual way the hem has been sewn combined with the buttons, really does give it the most fantastic and fascinating movement when you move. The fabric is at ultra soft white cotton or cotton mix. This piece was only ever owned by one person and it was loved and worn. It does have some faint marks on it but it doesn't take away from the importance or rarity of the piece.
This is an exceptionally rare piece to come up for sale from one of his very early collections. Excellent overall condition with a note below.
The skirt is unlined and closes with a hidden set side zipper. There are buttonholes hidden along the hem of the skirts and then button sit along the seams inside the skirt which is what allows you to change the look and length of the skirt. I see a repair along the back but because of the asymmetrical hem you would actually think that this was deliberate if you did not know better. I see another tiny area at the front where someone has put a stitch near the seam. There are some marks on the front and along one side of the hem. I did have this cleaned and they faded quite a bit but we were not overly aggressive in the cleaning. You might be able to fully get these out with more specialty cleaning. Please see the photos after the label. It is a remarkable piece of fashion history
Waist: 13.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: open
Total Length at its longest and unbuttoned it is 45" and then it can be adjusted with the buttons shorter
Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED
Item# DD4785
Reference Photos: Spring 1988 John Galliano. (Third image from the book "Galliano: Spectacular Fashion" by Kerry Taylor for Bloomsbury.)
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
christian dior
Dreamy Fall 2007 Christian Dior by John Galliano Champagne Silk Dress w Crystal Beading Detail
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This is the twin of the dress that was shown on the Fall Christian Dior Fall runway show in Prague. This was a special presentation that showed looks from both Fall and Resort 2008. On the regular runway for that season this look was not shown but you did see a similar cut though the bodice and bead work for Look 26. A shorter version in black that had a slightly different bodice was worn that year by Penelope Cruz when she attended the 2008 Cruise collection show. The dress would make an amazing wedding dress for the bride looking for a non-traditional choice or as an alternative dress in a more extended wedding celebration. And of course it could also be worn to any event.
The dress is entirely cut on the bias and it falls beautifully over the body once on. As good as it looks on the form it is even better in person. The dress is made from a rich looking champagne coloured silk that has a slight silver undertone to it. The fabric and the way it is cut and draped allows it to hug the body but without being tight. It skims over you to highlight every curve but is very comfortable and easy to move in. At the front it scoops down at the front into the squared off neckline. From the base of the neckline a wide panel of the same fabric runs down to about the hip. The silk is gathered and hand draped under that front panel in big soft folds. It is then covered with little silver flat metal sequins meant to suggest tiny leaves, hand sewn tube beads and prong set glass crystal rhinestones. These catch the light beautifully as you move. Under the panel the skirt open into soft folds to expand out tot he floor. There are yards of silk in the skirt and I love the draping around the sides of the hips.At the back the fabric is lightly gathered into the zipper area and then it opens up with a series of panels that are built in for added volume. It extends out past the hem so that you have a sweeping feel as you walk. A very beautiful dress. Excellent condition
The dress is fully lined with a fine ivory tissue silk. It closes with a hidden set zipper at the back. It appears to have never been worn or worn very little. Tagged a vintage Dior US8
Bust: 16" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 12.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 20" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 58" from top of shoulder to front hem, 64" to the longest point of the back hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-SML
Item# DD3875
Reference Photos: (1-2) Dior Runway Show in Prague showcasing Fall 2007 RTW/Resort 2008 pieces. Dress shown worn by Miss World 2006 Tatana Kucharova. / (3) Fall 2007 Christian Dior Runway, Look 26. Model: Patricia Schmid. / (4-6) Penelope Cruz at the 2008 Dior Cruise Collection Presentation.
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
Incredible 1960s Philippe Venet Hand Made Haute Couture Ivory Silk Wrape Over Inner Structural Dress
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Philippe Venet apprenticed to a local tailor who is authorized to make Balenciaga designs. In 1951 he moved to Paris and became a cutter to Schaparelli. From there he met Hubert de Givenchy and in 1962 joined his atelier where he was the head cutter. In 1964 he opened his own Haute Couture label with Givenchy's blessings and support. His work tended towards minimalism and clean lines. His business was never as large as Givenchy's which allowed him to be more hands on for a longer period of time. Couture pieces from him are rare and hard to find and the early were ones like this even more so. This was almost certainly a piece custom-made for somebody and it is incredibly beautiful.
The dress is amazing and showcases how wonderful a piece of true Haute Couture can be. It is made entirely by hand and the silk is that beautiful rich silk that you only seem to see in the very best pieces of couture. The dress wraps over an inner dress and this added inner structure keep the dress perfectly in place and also gives it the structure needed so that the outer layer falls perfectly over you. The bodice is cut into a V and it wraps, snaps and hooks into place. I love the way that he has brought in angled seaming and pleating to create the design that you see at the base of the plunge. On the panel that sits underneath the wrap everything is angled towards the centre of the dress and then the panel that sits over the wrap is set so that the pleats fall vertically all the way down to the hem. The hem is set on a curve that goes up at the front and around at the back. So when you walk you get a flash of bare legs. The back is cut longer and depending on your height you will have a bit of a sweeping behind you. The cut also gives you some pretty fullness and shape through the hips. At the back the seams are set vertically so that you just get one long swoop of fabric that extends out as touch at the bottom hem. There are even weights placed inside of the back so that it sits perfectly once on. Underneath this is a structured foundation piece. It has a structured corset top with boning and shaped cups in an ivory silk. The skirt is made of the same silk as the exterior and it is cut to just about the knee depending on your height. All of the inner seams are finished completely by hand and seeing how it is all piece together is a joy in itself. The colour of the silk is a beautiful creamy ivory. This is a brilliant dress and when you see it in person you will fall in love with how good it is. It really shows how sometimes simplicity can have so much of an impact. It would be a dress that might make an amazing wedding dress for the bride looking for a non-traditional choice, for a day wedding, or as an alternative dress in a more extended wedding celebration. Excellent condition with a minor note below
The inner dress acts as the lining and then the outer dress is also fully lined in an ivory silk. All the work is done by hand to Haute Couture standards. The inner dress closes with a hand set side zipper at the front. The outer dress snaps into place directly onto the inner dress and then the outer dress wraps and snapped onto itself. The zipper on the inner dress was slightly moved at some point but of course you don't see this once on. I have included a photo in the detail shots. I see a tiny hairline mark of thinning near the neckline and some wear to the edges of the top of the seams. Please see the photos after the label shot. Completely made by hand. Proper Haute Couture numbered label present.
Outer Dress
Bust: 17.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 15.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 20" flat across from side seam to side seam
Total length: 57" from top of shoulder to longest point of the back hem
Inner dress
Bust: 15.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 12.25" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 17.25" flat across from side seam to side seam
Bodice: 15" from top of shoulder to waist
Total length: 38" from top of shoulder to hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-SML
Item# DD4779
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
alexander mcqueen
Beautiful 2010 Alexander McQueen Draped Silk Dress w Oversized Soft Floral Print & Deep Front Plunge
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This is such a beautiful dress from Alexander McQueen and I love how wonderfully romantic it feels. It is from his Spring 2010 collection and it is a dress that was produced for the shops. The dress does not have a single unnecessary seam and I think it is even prettier in person. Even with its simplicity it would still be a dress that is red carpet worthy or would make an amazing wedding dress for the bride looking for a non-traditional choice or as an alternative dress in a more extended wedding celebration. And of course it could also be worn to any other event. It is a fantastic example of his work.
The dress is made from a printed, soft liquid silk that is covered with one of the most beautiful and romantic floral prints I have ever seen on a dress. Oversized blossoms trail across the entire dress in a wonderful pale pastel design. The base colour is ivory and then the print is a soft wash of pink, pastel corals and soft taupe that cover the dress from shoulder to hem. Wide straps curved over the shoulders and extend down to form the halter feeling bust. The cut is very reminiscent of pieces from the 1920s and 1930s. The silk is all cut on the bias and the way that it falls over the body is beautiful to see. At the front there is a deep plunge and the fabric is gathered into a centre knot at the base of the plunge. Seams angle down from there across the hips and they actually hide little hidden slit pockets. A wonderful little detail. Those slanted seams are only on the front of the dress. At the back the dress falls in one swoop down from the shoulders. An extra panel of fabric is created from the front knot and then runs down the centre of the dress all the way down to the hem. It creates that beautiful draping and also gives the skirt incredible movement. There is actually a ton of silk through the skirt and the way that it is cut lets it billow and float around you when you move. It is in its original supermodel length and is unworn with its original hang tags attached. It is spectacularly beautiful. Excellent condition
Fully lined in an ivory silk and closes with a hidden set side zipper. Tagged a McQueen 40. The bias cut should allow it to work on a range of sizes. I have put the comfortable range of measurements below when laying flat. Original hang tag attached.
Bust: 15-17" flat across from side seam to side seam with a B-C cup
Waist: 12-13" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 18" flat across from side seam to side seam
Total length: 64" from top of bodice to hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-MED
Item# DD4777
Reference Photos: Allison Williams in "Girls" Season 1, Episode 10 (aired June 2012).
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
alexander mcqueen
Romantic Spring 2007 Alexander McQueen Stunning Bias Cut Floral Silk Dress w Low Open Back
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This is an incredible McQueen dress that is very beautiful. This was a dress that was produced for the shops and was most likely made in limited quantities. It is also rare in that it is a size 46 and it is always amazing to find a larger McQueen piece as you find so few. It is in pristine condition and appears to have been worn very little at all. It is an incredible dress. The dress does not have a single unnecessary seam. Even with its simplicity it would still be a dress that is red carpet worthy or would make an amazing wedding dress for the bride looking for a non-traditional choice or as an alternative dress in a more extended wedding celebration. And of course it could also be worn to any other event.
The dress is gorgeous. It definitely takes inspiration from the bias cut couture pieces of the 1920s and 1930s. McQueen was a master tailor and the seam work and simplicity of this dress are beautiful to see. It is made from a light in weight ivory silk that has that same feel that the best of the 1930s pieces did that were made from similar silks. Like those dresses of the thirties this is also cut on the bias but with a more structured and shaped silhouette because it is completely lined. I love that the fabric is heavy enough to hold the shape while still skimming and moving over the body. The neckline is set into a V at the front and angled darts give a touch of shape through the bust. The bias cut through the body lets it skim over your waist and hips in an easy way. The skirt flows to the floor from there and it is in its original uncut supermodel length. The lower skirt flares out as it reaches the hem. At the back there is extra fabric worked around the centre seam and the back skirt is also cut a little longer then the front. This gives you a bit of a sweeping feel behind you as you walk. The flaring out of the lower skirt and the extra fabric at the back also give you fabulous movement when you walk or move. The bare and open back is the fabulously unexpected finish to the dress. The back is cut out and squared off at the bottom of the opening. This leaves your entire back open and bare. It is shockingly sexy and the perfect McQueen touch on an otherwise perfectly pretty dress. Excellent condition.
Fully lined in an ivory silk chiffon and closes with a hidden set side zipper. Tagged a McQueen 46. The bias cut fabric does have some movement. The measurements below give you the comfortable range the fabric has when lying flat. It appears to have been worn very little if at all. It is in its original extra long length.
Bust: 18-22" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 15-18.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 20-23.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 69" from neck to front hem, 72" to the back hem
Back plunge: 20" from shoulder to lowest part of the plunge
Modern Sizing Equivalent: LRG-XL
Item# DD4776
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
alexander mcqueen
Important Fall 2003 Alexander McQueen 'Scanners" Runway Look 55 White Silk Corset Dress w Silver Sequins & Embroidery
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This is a very recognizable Alexander McQueen piece. While there are many of his pieces out there that only die-hard collectors would know at first glance, this is one of the dresses that you instantly know is McQueen. Lee had only recently joined the Gucci Group at this point and his shows were becoming bigger and more commercial. The Fall 2003 collection was titled 'Scanners' and he went to the frozen arctic tundra for the show set. The runway was a wasteland set against an icy mountain. Models walked among rubble and rocks on the runway and and a dusting of snow covered everything. The name of the show came from the invitation that had scans of McQueen's actual brain on them. In the book "Alexander McQueen" by Abrams, they noted that "the collection engaged McQueen's interest in Eurasian culture and was presented as a journey of displaced travellers from west to east, from dark to light across the harsh planes of Siberia through Tibet, and into Japan, the land of the rising sun." The looks touched on both Russia and Japanese themes as well as mixing in a little bit of his signature punk. This is the twin of the dress that walked the runway for Look 55 and it is outstanding. It also has a strong tie-in with red carpets and we have included photos of some of the people that have worn one here including Eve and Naomi Campbell. This is an exceptional, very rare and extraordinary piece of his work for the collector. It might even make an amazing choice for a bride looking a non-traditional choice or alternative dress in a more extended wedding celebration.
This dress is beautiful and rarely does one see this level of workmanship in ready-to-wear. The fabric is a feather light white silk chiffon that moves with the barest breathe of air. The cut is classic McQueen with a low cut squared off neckline at the front that is meant to hold and push the breasts upwards. Underneath the bodice sits a band of silk to add some shape and structure. This tiny little detail adds the perfect bit of shape and gives the bodice its empire cut. The back is scooped to show a bare expanse of skin. I love how the straps are meant to sit at the very outer edge of your shoulders. Inside it is lined in an ivory silk satin and has hidden set boning. The construction is beautiful and done to the high level that you expect from runway McQueen. The skirt falls from the band beneath the bodice and there are yards and yards of silk used to create the skirt. At the front it is cut to just past the knee or just above mid-calf, depending on your height. It curves around the back where it drops in length at the centre and then there are two long panels on either side of you that fall to the floor. The effect this multi-length hem creates when you move is fantastic. As you walk it floats out behind and around you. You can see the movement in the runway video and it is extraordinary. If that was not enough, the entire dress was then hand, beaded and sequin with a combination of silver thread, tiny little silver beads and tiny silver sequins. They form an exquisite and highly detailed trailing flower design that is denser around the hem and then trails up the dress into the bodice. Attached ties extend out from the centre back of at the waist with extra extra long ties that can be wrapped around you or tied and left to trail out behind you. This is a work of art from one of the greatest designers of our time. Excellent condition.
Fully lined in a white silk satin through the bust and white silk chiffon through the skirt. It closes with a series of large hidden set hooks at the back. The hooks could be moved a quarter to half inch up or down to get more or less room. The interior bust is shaped and boned. Hand finishes throughout. No size tag present.
Bust: 15-16" flat across from side seam to side seam
Empire waist: 14" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: open
Bodice: 9" from top of shoulder to the top of the 1" band under the bust
Total length: 39" from top of shoulder to the front hem, 44" to the shortest pont of the back hem, 59" to the longest point of the hem.
Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-SML
Item# DD4744
Reference Photos/Video: (1-3) Fall 2003 Alexander McQueen Runway, Look 55. Model Natalia Vodianova. / (4) Eve at the 2003 CFDA Awards. / (5) Naomi Campbell at a Party thrown in honor of McQueen, November 2004. / (6) Lily Donaldson on left at the 2006 Met Gala. / (7) Julia Schlaepfer wearing this dress at the BAFTA Tea Party, 2024.
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
yves saint laurent
Incredible Spring 1990 Yves Saint Laurent Haute Couture Runway Look 50 Ivory Silk Dress
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The twin of this dress walked the runway for the Spring 1990 Haute Couture collection. Its twin was shown under a jacket on model Gloria Burgess and we found the original sketch of the dress in my YSL folio. I thought it interesting to see that Gloria was not the original model intended for the dress and that there was a change by Yves as to who wore it on the actual runway and you can see that interesting little detail in the sketch. I have included all the reference photos for you here and it gives you a beautiful idea of how fabulous this is once on the body. This is also the collection that the book 'Yves Saint Laurent: Catwalk' notes that "The end of this catwalk show was greeted by 10 minutes of a standing ovation, following Yves Saint Laurent's homage - via 119 designs - to the hugely talented men and women who had thus far influenced him and made an impression upon him". The dress is gorgeous and Yves always cut his couture pieces so perfectly. It really is a beautiful piece and in my opinion, owning a piece of his couture work is one of the ultimate vintage acquisitions.
The dress is amazing and showcases how wonderful Yves Saint Laurent could cut a dress to flatter a woman's body. It is made entirely by hand and the silk is that heavier richer silk that you only see in the very best pieces of couture. The top is cut to skim over you and blouse over the waist. The shoulders have padding to extend the line of them outwards a touch over the ends of the shoulder. The sleeves are cut full through the upper arms and then narrow to the wrists. Each cuff ends with four handmade silk covered buttons and loops and each button is perfectly functional. The neckline is set a touch wide across. The silk is gathered around the waist into soft folds to create a little extra bit of a detailing. The folds are set slightly off to the side and on an slight angle that visually helps to extend the body of the person wearing it. The waist is seamed but cut on the more generous side. To cinch it in we have added an ivory silk chiffon sash that is a beautiful match to the dress. The skirt falls under that in a simple shape that flares out as it nears the hem. It falls to just about the knee or above depending on your height and there are hidden pockets along each hip. The colour of the silk is beautiful creamy ivory. This is a brilliant dress and when you see it in person you will fall in love with how good it is in person. It really shows how sometimes simplicity can have so much of an impact. It would be a dress that might make an amazing wedding dress for the bride looking for a non-traditional choice, for a day wedding, or as an alternative dress in a more extended wedding celebration. Excellent condition.
Fully lined in an ivory silk and all the work is done by hand to Haute Couture standards. It closes with a hand set side zipper and a button at the back of the neck. An inner waist stay hooks to close. Each cuff has four hand made silk buttons and loop. Padding in each shoulder as described above. Completely made by hand. Proper Haute Couture numbered label present. The silk chiffon sash is not original to the dress but will be sent with it. Any change in colour that you see in the photos is lighting.
Sleeves: 22" and 14" around the upper arm
Slightly wide set shoulders: 16"
Bust: to 21" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 12.5-13" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 21" flat across from side seam to side seam
Bodice: 16" from top of shoulder to waist but mean to blouse a bit
Total length: 38" from top of shoulder to hem with 2" turned under
Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-SML
Item# DD4727
Reference Photo: Spring 1990 Yves Saint Laurent Haute Couture Runway. Model Gloria Burgess.
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
valentino
Pre-Fall 2020 Valentino by Pierpaolo Piccioli Runway Look 3 Blue & White Silk Organza Dress
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This dress is the twin of Look 3 for the Pre-Fall 2020 collection. For this collection Pierpaolo paid homage to the Fall 1968 Haute Couture collection and I have included the reference photos of those original pieces here. This famous print was originally done by Mr Valentino and were inspired by the blue and white in Chinese Delft print vases. It is also very close in style to the 2013 Valentino dress that was a part of the in the Met Museums 2015 "China: Through the Looking Glass" exhibit. When speaking of this collection to Vogue Piccioli said; “I want to maintain couture’s values even in the pre-fall collection. I like the idea of breaking its rules and translating them into a modern, spontaneous wardrobe, making something historical become contemporary.” and they went on to mention this print in particular saying that 'he picked from the archives... a beautiful print of Delft blue vases from a sophisticated 1968 couture collection. “I want Valentino to be lively and joyous,” enthused Piccioli. “For me, beauty means life, emotion, something that vibrates and is full of energy—not something removed that you look at from afar, as if on a pedestal.” Mary Holland wore its twin to a premier that season as well. It is beautiful and very special.
The dress is pristine and utterly beautiful. It is made of a feather light silk organza that has been printed with that beautiful blue and white design that gives a nod do the 1968 couture collection as described above. It is magical. The colour combines the soft ivory backdrop with that dreamy blue floral print. The print is beautiful and intricate. I love how he has placed the print over the bodice and skirt to accentuate the design and flow of the dress. The silk is feather light in weight and just floats beautifully over the body once on. It will softly move with the slightest breeze or movement on your part. The dress has a second layer of organza through the bodice and skirt which gives it just a touch less transparency and also helps to add to the airy and light feel that it has. The sleeves are a single layer of silk so you see your arm through the pattern. The neckline has a small neat collar and it buttons to close done the bodice with hidden set buttons. Note how careful the patterns has been lined up across the panel there. The bodice lightly skims over you to the nipped in waist. Each sleeve ends in a beautiful ruffles cuff. The skirt is spectacular. It is lazy gathered through the waist scene and then opens up to be very full to the floor. Because of the layering of the organza with the outer layer in the inner layer, it just floats and moves around you spectacularly when you move. It a just gorgeous and even better in person as you get more of a sense of the lightness of that stunning printed silk. It appears to have been worn very little if at all. Excellent condition
Lined in silk organza as described above. I buttons down the front with hidden set buttons under that front panel and zines to close with a hidden set zipper down the back. Tagged a modern Valentino 40
Sleeves: 21.5"
Shoulders: 14.5"
Bust: 15.5-16" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 12,5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: open
Bodice: 15" from neck to waist
Total Length: 65" from neck to hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-SML
Item# DD4588
Reference Photos: (1) Pre-Fall 2020 Valentino, Look 3. / (2) Models in Valentino, British Vogue, September 1968. / (3) Valentino dresses at the MET Exhibition "China: Through the Looking Glass", 2015. / (4) Model in Valentino Autumn 1968 Gown, photographed by Steven Meisel, 2015. / (5) Mary Holland in Valentino at the premiere of "Happiest Season", November 2020.
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
luisa beccaria
Most Romantic Resort 2020 Luisa Beccaria Runway Look 24 Blue & Ivory Silk Chiffon Dress
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The twin of this dress was Look 24 for the Resort 2020 presentation and I love having that reference photo for you to show how amazing it is on the body. The Luisa Beccaria label is out of Italy and is run by the mother-daughter team of Luisa and Lucilla Beccaria. They are known for their incredibly feminine pieces that have an almost story book feel to them. The cost of their pieces run into the thousands and their clothing is very well made. This season was a coup for the label as they were fresh from designing the wedding dress Lady Gabriella Windsor. And well deserved. The label's pieces always have a sense of romance to them. Vogue said of the collection that; 'Beccaria’s style is at its most resplendent when she’s designing for elegant soirées and receptions with a sense of occasion. Resort offered plenty of choices in embroidered lace, layered tulle, macramé, and wispy organza.'
This is everything you look for in a piece by the Beccaria label. It has a stunning floral design print screened onto a feather light silk chiffon. Think the finest silk scarf you could have in terms of weight and feel. The entire dress has been printed with that gorgeous and romantic flower design in pale shades of blue and I love it. The neckline is set in a higher collar around the neck with a long tie that you can let trail down the back as they did in the collection photos or wrap and tie it into a beautiful soft bow at the front like I did for most of these shots. The silk has been gathered into the collar for pretty detail on the bodice and this adds a pretty softness there. From the neckline it skims to the waist and it comes with a matching tie belt in the same fabric that has a cut out flower that matches the print on the belt. I love this extra little thought into the design and how this gives you the option of wearing it more cinched in through the waist. The skirt falls to the floor under that, and the silk is all biased cut and there is a ton of fabric in the skirt. It is so light and there is so much fabric that your slightest movement causes the skirt to float around you as you move. It is beautiful to see. It is also in its original uncut length so it is very long. The sleeves are fantastic. Each is an incredibly full balloon sleeve made out of a single layer of the silk chiffon. They pouf out dramatically above the cuff and each cuff ends in a split ruffle that is angled down longer on one side. The movement and drama the entire dress has is extraordinary. This is a dress that you slip on and feel completely comfortable when wearing it and yet it has as much drama and impact as you could ask for. It is a stunning and very romantic example of her work and beautifully made. I love it. It comes with its original hang tags and was never worn. Excellent condition
The outer dress is unlined and it comes with a matching ivory bias cut silk chiffon slip to wear underneath. It closes with hook and eye at the back of the neck and a hidden set side zipper. Elastic through the waist and at the end of each cuff. The original tie belt is included. The loose and easy cut should allow it to fit a variety of sizes. It will just drape more on a smaller frame and be more fitted on a larger frame. In its original uncut length, and appears to have never been worn. Tagged a modern 46 and has its original hangtags.
Outer Dress
Sleeves: approx 29" but meant to come up once on and 18" around the upper arm
Shoulders: no true defined seam
Bust: to 20" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 14-16.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: open
Bodice: 15" from neck to waist
Total length: 67" from top of shoulder to hem
Inner Separate Slip
Bust: 17-20" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 16-20" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 20-24" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 67" from waist to hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: MED-LRG
Item# DD4590
Reference Photo: Resort 2020 Luisa Beccaria, Look 24.
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
john anthony
Spectacular Fall 1988 John Anthony Bias Cut Taupe Silk Chiffon Wrap Dress w Hand Made Lace Detailing
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John Anthony's business was all done on a made-to-order basis. That means that each piece is the only one that exists or in the very occasional circumstance that there are similar pieces only a very limited amount of pieces were made. And to make things even a little more special.... the pieces I have in the shop come directly from John's archive. He is one of the great American couturiers and he was known for his sharp tailoring and striking evening wear. He launched his atelier in 1971 and he quickly rose to fame, winning a Coty award in 1972 and then again in 1976. This dress is from his Fall 1988 collection and is the original sample from his archives. We found a photo of a dress on the runway from this same collection with the same cut through the top so you can get an idea of how this will sit on the body. John told me that this dress was made for the runway as well and was edited out once the final line up was done. I love this dress and am so happy to let it have its full moment now. His work is amazing on the body and transforms once it is on and moving.
This dress is absolutely stunning and it is among my favourites from the pieces he has sent to us so far. It is very light in weight once on the body. It is made from the most beautiful feather light silk chiffon. Bias cut silk chiffon is incredibly hard to work with and for this dress he has layered it with each layer falling perfectly over each other. The dress is made of three layers of the chiffon. The two innermost layers are unadorned and then the top layer has the black lace detailing added to it. It slips on and zips up at the front and this is all cleverly hidden with a panel that wraps and snaps into place to one side. The snaps continue down under the lace detail on the skirt. The snaps only close it part of the way and a thigh high slit is left so that when you walk you will see a mile of bare leg. The front plunges into a V and there is a caped feeling panel of hand made black French lace that drapes over the shoulders for the prettiest romantic touch. This wraps all the way around the back and I love how it drapes there. The lace at the front curves down and to the side and then trails all the way down the skirt to the hem. A wide order of it is placed all the way around the hem. I love the way the lace is all perfectly and meticulously set onto the silk with thousands of tiny precise stitched done to hold it in place and follow the pattern in the lace. This is couture level detailing. At the back, the skirt extends out a bit past the hem to sweep behind you as you walk. The silk is so light that your slightest movement causes it to float around you. It is very beautiful. Excellent condition.
Made of three layers of silk chiffon as described above and closes with a hidden set front zipper and then hidden set snaps down the side. Hand finished throughout.
Bust: to 18" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 13" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: open
Bodice: approx 14" from top of shoulder to waist
Total length: 64" from top of shoulder to front hem, 76" to the longest point of the back hem
Slit: 34" from front hem up
Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED
Item# DD4555
Reference Photo: Fall 1988 John Anthony Runway.
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
john anthony
Exquisite Spring 1993 John Anthony Hand Beaded One Shoulder Dress on Pale Gold Silk Net
I Have a Question
John Anthony's business was all done on a made-to-order basis. That means that each piece is the only one that exists or in the very occasional circumstance that there are similar pieces only a very limited amount of pieces were made. And to make things even a little more special.... the pieces I have in the shop come directly from John's archive. He is one of the great American couturiers and he was known for his sharp tailoring and striking evening wear. He launched his atelier in 1971 and he quickly rose to fame winning a Coty award in 1972 and then again in 1976. This spectacular dress is from his Spring 1993 collection and is the original sample from his archives. It is truly a special piece and it might even make an amazing wedding dress for the bride looking for a non-traditional choice or as an alternative dress in a more extended wedding celebration. And of course it could also be worn to any event.
This dress is absolutely stunning. This is the kind of dress that you will only find with vintage or in modern day Haute Couture. The fabric is a fine pale gold coloured silk net that is cut on the bias. It is lined in a nude silk chiffon and then the entire dress has been hand beaded from top to bottom with thousands of tiny glass tube beads and seed beads in a mix of gold, clear and ivory beads onto the netting. The silk netting and chiffon lining are both feather light and the placement of the beads help it to hold the intended shape that John wanted it to have. The dress is suspended from a single shoulder that curves up and over the shoulder. It angles down in a soft line on the front and back. I love the beaded panel that falls from that shoulder and trails down the back. This adds a little extra detail and movement when the dress is on the body. The iridescent quality of the more clear beads mixed with those tiny metallic coloured ones catch the light and sparkle from every angle. The dress flows beautifully over the waist and hips. The bias cut lets it drape perfectly over you and shows off the body without being excessively tight. The skirt falls to the floor and gently widens out as it nears the hem. The back is cut longer then the front so you get a bit of a trained effect behind you as you walk. Around all of the edges including the hem is a dense border of the beadwork that gives the dress the perfect finishing touch. It also gives the skirt a touch of weight to hold the shape and volume as you walk and stand. It has this lovely feeling of being an heirloom piece and it is fantastically beautiful to see in person. It is a very special piece. Excellent condition with a minor note below
Fully lined in a nude silk chiffon and the outer netting is backed in a white netting. It closes with a hidden set side zipper slips over the head to wear. It appears to have been worn very little if at all. This is the original runway sample. Handwork throughout and cut on the bias.
Bust: 14-16.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 12-14" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 18.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 63" from top of shoulder to front hem, 69" to the longest point of the back hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-SML
Item# DD4554
Reference Photos: Daria Strokous in this dress, May 2024.
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
yves saint laurent
Spectacular Spring 1992 Yves Saint Laurent Haute Couture Look 47 Runway Dot & Embroidered Floral Pouf Dress
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This is a very rare dress that is the twin of the dress that walked the Yves Saint Laurent Spring 1992 Haute Couture runway. It is extremely well documented and I have included photos of the original sketch and swatches that I have here from the Saint Laurent couture archive book set that I own in addition to runway reference photos of it that we found. You can see just how fantastic it is on the body. This was Look 47 and part of the short evening segment of the collection.
This collection marked Yves' 30 year anniversary and it was presented on January 29 to coincide exactly with his first collection presented January 29, 1962. The book, Yves Saint Laurent Catwalk, notes that at the time people were expecting a retrospective but Yves actually surprised everyone by producing a full 91 piece collection. There was a definitive tribute aspect to his first 1962 collection. Flowers were a main motif and ran throughout the collection as did polka dots and stripes. Puff sleeve tops with balloons skirts were integral and dresses like this one were a key look. It is an exceptional to have such beautiful documentation on this stunning dress. Every piece of Saint Laurent Couture is a treasure but when it's as highly documented in from such an important collection as this, it is just that much more special.
The dress is exquisite. It is made from a combination of a white silk that has been hand embroidered with roses and leaves across the entire bodice. This is then combined with a silk faille skirt that has dots that appear to be hand painted onto the fabric. A silk organza bow is wrapped around the waist and I love the deeper mustard yellow tone of it. It perfectly offsets the black and white palette. The neckline is scooped across the front and the bodice is meant to skim over the body to the waist. The sleeves are fantastic and each insets into the bodice in a series of pleats across the top of the shoulders. This is what gives them the volume that you see. The edges of the neckline are finished with a black cord and this runs around the cuffs as well. Each cuff is brought into the arm with a button and loop and this bringing in at the arm also helps to exaggerate the puff above. The entire silk of the top is embroidered in this magical, dreamy, black rose embroidery that pops against the white of the silk. The embroidery is done onto the silk directly in some places and then in other places the leaves or roses have been cut out and hand stitched in place. The waist is seamed but it is more generously cut and the organza ribbon that circles it adds the perfect pop of color. Under that the skirt is fantastically full and the fulness is created by the pleats that are set into the waist and the way it has been wrapped in and under at the hem to attach to the skirt underneath. Between the those two layers of the skirt you can feel that there is tulle and some structure inside that helps hold that exaggerated shape. It is a fantastic magical piece of Haute Couture and an important piece from an important collection. Excellent condition with a note below.
The bodice is lined in an ivory silk and the sleeves are unlined. The belt at the waist is attached and wrapped and hooked into place. The skirt is lined in the same fabric as the outer skirt and there is stiffening between the layers as described above. It closes at the back with a button at the top of the neck and then there is a hidden set side zipper too close. The dress is unlabeled, but I have seen the original label that came with the dress. The dress had been let out at some point and my client had it brought back in and unfortunately when she had it altered back to its original size, the tailor lost the tag. I see some very minor evidence of that alteration on the bodice. There are some areas of stress near the embroidery and some minor reinforcements underneath the arms. I see slight dustiness on the fabric at the top the shoulders and there is a tiny chip on the button on one sleeve. Perhaps a slight grubbiness along the inner edge of the lining under the arm. The outside presents as clean and fresh and once on it looks immaculate.
Slightly inset shoulders: 14.5"
Bust: 17.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Natural waist: 16" flat across from side seam to side seam
Inner hips: 19.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Bodice: 15" from top of shoulder to waist
Skirt: 18" from waist to hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED
Item# DD4509
Reference Photos: (1-4) Spring 1992 Yves Saint Laurent Haute Couture. / (5-6) From the book "Yves Saint Laurent Haute Couture: L'oeuvre Integral 1962-2002".
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
valentino
Incredible 1998 Valentino Sample Black Dot Net Over Ivory Silk Taffeta Strapless Dress
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This incredible dress has it's original tag that appears to indicate that it was a sample from 1998. I have not been able to verify if this dress was produced for the shops or if it remained a one-off sample. If it is the only one that would be an incredible thing to have and even if it was produced it's so utterly beautiful that it would just be adding more beauty to the world if there was more than one. Of course I will continue to hunt for that information and one day I hope to send its new owner verification. Regardless of its production status, the dress is one of the best Valentino pieces I've ever seen.
This is a really stunning dress. And it shows how beautifully Valentino emphasize the female body will always stay completely elegant. The netting treatment on the dress makes you feel like you have been wrapped in the tulle. Underneath, the inner ivory silk taffeta layer gives the dress structure and it makes this beautiful, slight rustling sound when you move. The silk netting over that has a dot pattern over its surface. It is gathered down and along both sides. This creates this fantastic ruching all the way down that highlights your curves. Where it is gathered down both sides there is an elaborate line that has been beaded with two types of tiny black seed beads. The neckline curves around you at the top and then the dress is cut to skim over you with the shape all created by inner vertical seaming. The bottom skirt of the silk ivory underlay has been allowed to peek out from underneath the netting. It flares out and has an elaborate pleated ruffle all the way around. It is cut a little longer at the back and has extra fabric there as well so that you get this bit of a train effect behind you and a little fabulous kicking out of fabric as you walk. This is an incredible dress and one of my favorite Valentino pieces I've ever had in the shop. Excellent condition
The ivory acts as the lining through the body and then the bodice is lined with an additional layer of black silk satin. Lightly boned through the inner built-in bodice. It closes with a hidden set side zipper and the inner bodice piece has its own separate zipper. It has its original tag and appears to have never been worn. Tagged a vintage Valencia 40
Bust: 16.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 12" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 18.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 55" from top of bodice to front hem, 59" to the back hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-SML
Item# DD4431
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
john anthony
Extraordinary Fall 1975 John Anthony Couture Ivory Silver Hand Beaded Runway Sample Dress
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John has dived into his archives once more for me and today I have two of the dresses he sent for you with more to come. This is the actual runway sample from the Fall 1975 collection and you can see how fantastic it is on the body on the reference photo we found. The bead work on it was done by hand by Madame Gandini who did beading for many of the Couture houses of the day. John is one of my favorite American designers and right out of the gate he won the Coty Award for his work. The first time in 1972 and then again in 1976. He designed clothes that were simple and elegant but glamorous. His work veers towards minimalism with sharp tailoring. Striking evening wear was his signature and he is renowned for his cutting and tailoring. It is an extraordinary privilege to have pieces directly from his archives and these are things you will never see again. This one might even make an amazing wedding dress for the bride looking for a non-traditional choice or as an alternative dress in a more extended wedding celebration. And of course it could also be worn to any event. It is a work of art.
John's business was all done on a made to order basis. That means the majority of pieces you will find are a one-off, or if there are similar pieces, very few of each piece exist. This personal attention to each dress is clearly seen in the workmanship of his pieces. His work is very expensive and beaded pieces like this sold for over $10,000 even in the 1970s. If you convert that to modern dollars you get to about $68,000 which is incredibly still less then a modern couture pieces done to this level would be. Having this actual runway samples that John pulled from his own archives to share with you is just amazing.
This is an amazing dress that is heavily and densely beaded. The base of the gown is made of an ivory silk chiffon and then onto that are hundreds of vertical chevron bands of a silver coloured glass tube beads laid out in to fully cover every square inch of the dress. The dress is already spectacular on its own and the addition of the thousands and thousands of glass tube beads give the dress an extra layer of texture and glamour. Every square inch of the dress catches the light and sparkles. As a result the dress is fairly heavy off the body. We weighed it and it is almost 10 pounds because of that extensive bead-work. Yet once on the body it perfectly drapes over you in a way that it is balanced and not at all unwieldy. The impact of all those silver ivory toned beads from head to toe is stunning in the light. If you even remotely love it in the photos you will gasp to see it in real life. This needs a body to give it a life of its own and the camera cannot capture just how gorgeous it is and how the beads catch the light. The cut is sublimely simple. The bodice is cut with a V and there is a border of the bead work following the V to highlight it. The rest of the dress falls from there is a beautiful column of beads to skim over you all the way to the floor. There is just a suggestion of the waist and it skims over the hips. The sleeves are long and equally as simply. They widen out as they near the hem and this graceful line of the sleeves with their bordered cuffs is perfection. The back is just one long column of the bead work. The skirt widens out just a touch as it nears the hem. As good as it photoed the effect that this dress has once it is on an actual body is far more dramatic and fabulous. If you even remotely love it in the photos you will dance when you see it in person as it is so much better in real life. It is completely made by hand and you would never be able to find its modern equivalent. It is stunning. Excellent condition with a minor note below.
Fully lined in an ivory silk chiffon and it closes at the back with a metal and nylon zipper. Hand finished throughout. As noted above it has a good weight to it since it is fully beaded from top to bottom with glass beads but feels balanced when on and comfortable. There is perhaps the occasional bead missing here and there - a bit of the top row on the back of the collar is missing - but no bare areas. There is a slight darkening to some of the beads just above the hem. Please see the photo after the label shot. It feels more ivory silver in person.
Sleeves: 22" and 12" around the upper arm
Slightly dropped shoulders: 15.5"
Bust: 16.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 14.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 18.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 60" from neck to hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-SML
Item# DD4398
Reference Photos: Fall 1975 John Anthony Runway.
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
philip hulitar
Exceptional 1950s Philip Hulitar Couture Chanpagne Silk Satin Strapess Dress w Elaborate Gathered Panels
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Philip Hulitar designed under his own namesake label from 1949 to his retirement in 1964 so his pieces fall in a very defined window for dating. He was known for his sophisticated dresses and evening gowns. Shortly after the launch of his label a journalist gushed that; 'The star of a gifted designer has risen recently on the fashion horizon'. Prior to launching his own label, Mr Hulitar was the in-house designer and head of the women's dress division for Bergdorf Goodmans for 18 years. His work is amazing. This would absolutely make for an amazing wedding dress for the bride or as an alternative dress in a more extended wedding celebration. And of course it could also be worn to any event. It is just beautiful.
This dress so beautiful to see. The fabric is that rich ivory champagne colored silk that seems to have been done nest during this time period. The cut of the dress is magical. The bodice is fitted and strapless and I love how it has a slight curve across the top of the bodice. Inside it is boned to help to hold the shape that you see. There is a little bow at one side for detailing that is so pretty. It is cut to follow your every curve. The waist is brought in but there is no horizontal seam there to break the eye. Instead it is held in place inside so you just get this beautiful unbroken curve to shape the body. The skirt curves over the hips and then widens out to fall to the floor in a stunning expanse of silk. The entire dress is shaped by the seam and the use of long vertical panels which give the skirt the volume that you see. You cod make it even fuller by adding a full crinoline underneath too. On the front and back are those inset panels of the same fabric bit for the panels they have been hand gathered across. This creates these long and wide panel of intricately gathered silk that run the full length of the dress. I love how they are used to add to the hourglass shape of the dress by being set wide across the bust, coming in at the waits and then expanding out across the width of the skirt. It does the same at the back but in a not so exaggerated way. The back is cut slightly longer for a beautiful sweep of fabric there. It is just a beautiful and rare piece of 1950s couture. Excellent condition with small notes below.
Fully lined in a tea coloured silk organza and closes at the back with a hand set metal zipper. Hand finishes throughout. Boning through the bodice. Beautifully made. The inner lining has a variation throughout that of course does not effect the outer dress at all. I see a tiny foxing mark on one side of the outer skirt and the edge under the arm has started to give on one side and it is just starting a tiny on the other. These could easily be altered out by reducing the width of the band there a little. Please see the photos after the label shot. The construction throughout is to demi-couture standards. The colour is a bit more ivory then how it photoed. You could easily alter this one down if needed
Bust: to 18" flat across from side seam to side seam with room to a C cup at the front
Waist: 14" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: open
Length: 53" from top of bodice to front hem and 62" to the back hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: MED-LRG
Item# DD4373
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.