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Bill Blass launched his label in 1970 when he bought out the Maurice Rentner label and re-launched it under his own name. Blass was arguably one of the most famous of the American designers. His forte was the ability to mix simple styles with unexpected materials in way that was very flattering to the wearer. This dress is so pretty and I absolutely love it. This is the type of piece that you are only going to find in vintage.
As good as it looks on my dress form this is a dress that is even better in real life and moving. It is really when you are moving that this dress lives up to its full potential. There is an incredible amount of feather light silk chiffon that has gone into the making of this dress. Once on the skirt will float and billow out around you with your slightest movement. The bodice falls in a wide panel at the front and back with vertically gathered pleating. The waist is shaped by a light stitch that runs across horizontally. It is cut to be more on the loose and easy side. I added a pretty coral-orange coloured ribbon to give it more shape and I will include it with the dress. The skirt is remarkable. It is in its original length and is made from a single layer of that beautiful printed silk chiffon. It has many yards of silk in it and it is constructed to have this incredible fullness and movement. The fabric is so light and fine that when you stand still it falls in a pretty column around you without adding bulk. You still get a hint of the fullness that it has but then when you move the many yards of fabric that are actually there allow the skirt to move around you. As good as it looks here it only really comes to life once on. The flower and fern print that runs over the entire dress is gorgeous. It is an incredibly pretty dress and no matter how good it looks in the photos the sensation and tactile feeling of the fabric and lightness when you have it in hand is just phenomenal. Excellent condition with a minor note below.
Fully lined in a white silk through the top and unlined through the skirt. It closes with a back zipper. The ribbon belt is not original to the dress butt will be sent with it. The lining through the top looks like someone added it at a later date. There are some very light pulls in the silk here and there, but it is evenly throughout the dress and I believe that it is the nature of the silk. It is very minor and mentioned for accuracy.
Bust: 15-17" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: to 14" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: open
Bodice: 16" from neck to waist
Total length: 60" from top of shoulder to hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED
Item# DD4977
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Bill Gibb was one of the most influential designers in 1970s Britain and his clothes were worn by the rich, the famous and the beautiful. Much of his work verged on couture and he was unrelenting in striving for perfection. His work has a high fantasy element to it. Every piece I bring into the shop is very special and the range he had was incredible. I have had a deep brown version of this dress in the shop I love finding a version in black. Its twin in ivory was also a part of the 'Great Names in Fashion' exhibit at the Fashion Museum Bath.
The dress is made of a fluid black jersey fabric that is light in weight and has an amazing drape. It flows to the floor from the densely beaded panel that sits across the upper bust. A second panel of beading is set at the back. Both panels have been completely hand covered with a design that is made out of hundreds of ivory and gold glass tube beads. Along the one side of the front panel there is a row of hand carved mother of pearl buttons that run from the top of the shoulder to just past the waist. The buttons are functional and wrap an overlay of fabric over the inner dress. This panel loops under the opposite arm and then wraps around you to the back where it is attached. This gives the dress a gorgeous Grecian feel and it also gives it added movement when you move. The dress underneath is a long sheath that falls from the shoulders and widens out slightly as it nears the hem. The sleeves are long and each one ends with more of those same buttons. The entire dress is detailed with strips of tiny little raised beads on a silver base. These follow all of the edges of the dress and they are even on the long interior seams even though you don't easily see them. I just love that he did that and it just shows you the attention that was paid to dresses during this time period. They help the dress to fall perfectly and they also catch the light for added glamour. It is stunning and a beautiful example of Gibb's work. Excellent condition with a tiny note below
The dress is unlined and slips over the head top wear. The attached panel buttons into place over the interior dress. Each cuff has loop and buttons to close. It appears have been worn very little if at all. The loose and easy cut should allow it to fit a range of sizes. I have given the comfortable range of measurements while laying flat. On a smaller frame it will just drape more. The striped applique at the top of one shoulder has a couple of beads missing on one part. Please see the photo after the label shot
Sleeves: 21.5"
Slightly dropped shoulders: 15"
Bust: 15-18.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 14-19" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 16-22" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 58" from top of shoulder to hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-MED
Item# DD4232
Reference Photos: Bill Gibb Dress on display at the "Great Names of Fashion Display" Exhibit at Fashion Museum Bath.
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valentino
Prettiest 2016 Valentino by Maria Grazia Chiuri & Pierpaolo Piccioli Printed Red Silk Dress
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This dress is from the 2016 season and at this time both Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli were acting Creative Directors. It was a dress that was produced for the shops that year. It is an incredibly easy to wear and flattering piece once on the body.
This is a thoroughly Valentino feeling dress. The dress is made from a feather light silk chiffon in the prettiest true red for the base. Think scarf weight as far as the weight goes. This is what lets it move so beautifully over the body once it is on. When you walk the fabric of the dress catches the air and billows out around you. The neckline is cut high to frame the neck with cut out flowers from the print of the dress added around the collar for extra detailing. At the back of the neck it ties with a long tie that trails down the back over an open slit that runs from the neck to the waist. I love how this gives an unexpected flash of skin when you move a certain way. The bodice is cut loose and easy and the waist is more on the generous side. It falls from there to the floor and as it reaches the hem the skirt widens out. I love the five ruffled tiers that wraps around the lower skirts for detail and added movement. The silk has a beautiful flower design that covers the entire dress and pops against the red. The sleeves are long and each is finished with three more ruffled tiers which lets them widen out beautifully. It is a gorgeous dress. It appears to have been worn very little if at all. Excellent condition.
The top and sleeves are unlined and the skirt is lined in a red silk chiffon. It closes with a hidden set low back zipper at the waist and then ties into place behind the neck with a hidden hook behind the tie. In it's original uncut length. The easy and generous cut should fit a range of sizes
Sleeves: 21.5" and are 12" around the upper arm
Shoulders: 15.5"
Bust: to 20" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: to 16" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 20" flat across from side seam to side seam
Dropped bodice: 19" from neck to waist
Total length: 62" from neck to hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED
Item# DD4950
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yves saint laurent
Gorgeous Fall 1975 Yves Saint Laurent Brown Silk Jersey Dress w Full Sleeves
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This is an interesting YSL. It appears to be the Rive Gauche version of the Haute Couture piece from that season and on the RTW runway we found a jumpsuit version of it that is identical in all but the legs vs the skirt. Is possible that it was also shown on the runway as well since collections from this time period were not fully documented. But even with these two reference photos you can see how much it comes to life when worn. It is such an easy dress to wear and it is drop dead gorgeous.
The fabric is a beautiful light weight deep brown silk jersey. The cut of the dress is incredible. The neckline is scooped and then the dress skims over you to the waist. The very edge of the neckline has been piped in the same fabric and the scoop is set a bit wide across so you see a touch of collarbone. The sleeves are fabulous. Each is cut to be very full so that they balloon out over their elastic cuffs. Very tiny padded insets sit just inside that slim band of fabric between the scoop and the seam of the sleeve and this adds the perfect amount of structure to hold the dress in place. The waist is seamed with a small band for shape and you could add a belt if you wanted even more definition. Once on the body the bodice will blouse over the skirt slightly. The skirt falls from the waist and is gathered in tiny gathers all the way around the waist. This allows the skirt to flare and open out slightly as it nears the floor. The quality of the jersey is beautiful and the workmanship in this dress is fabulous. It really showcases just what a genius he was that he could create such a simple piece with such a masterful hand. And it has pockets. Excellent condition with a minor note below.
Unlined and closes with a side zipper. Each cuff has elastic and the elastic has softened a touch. Hand finishes throughout and beautifully made. Tagged a vintage YSL 38.
Sleeves: 26"
Inset shoulders: approx 13-14"
Bust: 16-20" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 12" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: open
Bodice: 18" from top of shoulder to top of the 1" band at the waist
Total length: 65" from top of shoulder to hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-SML
Item# DD4947
Reference Photos: (1) Fall 1975 Yves Saint Laurent Haute Couture. / (2) Fall 1975 Yves Saint Laurent Rive Gauche.
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james galanos
Amazing 1970s James Galanos Couture Brown & Black Navy Silk Crepe Front Slit Dress
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In 1951 a 27 year old James Galanos launched his first label called Galanos Originals. By 1954 he had won a Coty award and the Neiman Marcus award. By 1958 he was producing clothing that could range in price from $200 to $3000, an astronomical price for ready-to-wear for that time period. His ready-to-wear line was made close to couture standards and with a level of craftsmanship that was on par with the French couturiers. Galanos was a master cutter and draper and he used many couture techniques in his work. Grace Kelly was an early fan. He was truly one of the great American designers and his work is held in all of the major museums around the world. He is one of my personal favourites. This dress is absolutely gorgeous.
The dress is made out of a high end silk crepe that flows and drapes beautifully over the body. The bodice is cut to skim and blouse over the body to the waist. The waist is cut with a more generous feel and has a softened elastic running through it. You could add a belt if you wanted to cinch it in more and give it more shape. The skirt falls from there in a beautiful column of that same silk and widens out as it nears the hem. It has a bit of an old Hollywood feel to it that I love. The dress closes at the front with a tie at the top of the neck and a hook and zipper that starts at the waist. This leaves an open slit from under where it ties at the neck right to the waist. It is subtle but as you move, you do get that flash of bare skin. There is no collar other than that little tie that extends out from the neck. I love the inset of the darker coloured silk that runs down the entire front of the dress. In certain lights, it looks like the deepest possible blue and in others a soft black. One that band hits the waist seam it is pleated all the way down to the hem. This inset cleverly adds the perfect amount of detail to the dress and also gives it the illusion of extra length. The simplicity of the design hides the high skill level that having this all lay so perfectly with this type of fabric and with such a simple closure. It is so well made that I think that you could actually wear the dress either way around. The sleeves are spectacular and each one is cut to be a full wide balloon sleeve above the banded wrist. One of his signature knotted silk buttons closes each cuff. It is the perfect little extra embellishment for the dress. Excellent condition with a minor note below.
Fully lined through the skirt with a matching coloured silk chiffon and the bodice is unlined. It closes as described above. The elastic at the waist has softened. There is one button at each cuff. Hand finishes and ribbon finished seams throughout. There is very slight fading across the top of the shoulders and one one arm. Please see the photo after the label shot. If worn belted this would accommodate a smaller size as well as the cut is so forgiving.
Sleeves: Approx 26"
Shoulders: no shoulder seam present
Bust: to 21" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 17-18.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 22" flat across from side seam to side seam
Bodice: 17.5" from neck to waist
Total length: 64" from neck to hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: MED-LRG
Item# DD4945
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
lanvin
Prettiest c1972 Lanvin by Jules-Francois Crahay Printed Silk Jersey & Waffle Weave Low Back Dress
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This dress was designed by Belgian-born Jules-Francois Crahay, who headed the Lanvin ateliers from 1964-1984. He has been noted as one of fashion’s 'great colorists with his colorful patterns making his 1970s Lanvin designs hugely desirable and influential.' His time at the Lanvin label is one of my personal favourites for the house. I especially love the his work during the period through the late sixties and into the early 1970s. He was a genius at print and colour and he pushed the envelope in terms of using cutting edge fabrics available during this time period. He mainly used this type of fabric for his 1971-1972 collections. This is the second time I have had a version of this dress and I love it even more this time.
This Lanvin dress is gorgeous and is from the main label. I am in absolute love with it. The dress has a gorgeous colour and print combination. It is made from mixing two fabrics and both hold colour exceptionally well so the colours are still crisp bright and true. The top portion of the dress is an easy silk jersey and then the skirt is one of his signature waffle weave cottons. The sleeves are long and simple. The neckline is scooped with a slightly wide cut. The top skims over you and the back goes down in a scoop to leave a bare expanse of skin showing. The waist is seamed and I love how the skirt is set into the waist in soft gathers so that it puffs out slightly around the waist. It also has a bit of a wrap effect where one side is open down the full length, but it is fully wrapped underneath so that you are completely covered. From there the skirt falls to the floor and it widens as it nears the hem. The fabric change on the skirt gives it a touch of weight so that it holds the shape well. The pattern is the same on both fabrics and yet they look slightly different because of the change in texture. It is brilliant. This full on pattern from head to toe makes the dress instantly recognizable as a piece of his work. Excellent condition with a note below.
The bodice is unlined and the skirt is fully lined in a white silky rayon. It closes with a back zipper. I see what looks like remnants of a lining here and there along the seams of the top. I see a mark at the front. Please see the photo after the label shot. Hand finishes. The fabric of the top has some stretch.
Sleeves: 25" and are up to 11" around the upper arm
Inset shoulders: to 14"
Bust: 16-17" flat across from side seam to side seam
Natural waist: 12-14" flat across from side seam to side seam
Seam at top of hip: 13"
Hips: to 22" flat across from side seam to side seam
Bodice: 19" from top of shoulder to seam at the top of the hip
Total length: 57" from top of shoulder to hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-SML
Item# DD4941
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carolina herrera
Resort 2018 Carolina Herrera Runway Look One Sample Floral Silk Chiffon Plunge Dress
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The Resort 2018 collection was Carolina's last collection that she designed before handing things over to Wes Gordon. In the Vogue review they talked abut the inspiration for the pieces saying, "Herrera said she looked to the gardens at her home in her native Venezuela for her flower motifs, and the exuberant colours she pulled from them for other pieces." This dress was Look One of the presentation. Brie Larson wore one on the Today Show that year, Grace Gummer wore hers to the Emmys awards HBO party and we found a photo of Helena Bourdon in one. It feels as fresh today as it did then.
The dress is made out of a feather light silk crepe chiffon in a beautiful soft blue. A pretty floral print runs over the entire piece. The front plunges to the waist for a startling contrast to the romantic feel of the dress. A tiny ruffle runs over each shoulder and the sleeves slim down a touch as they reach their cuffs. The waist is seamed and buttons to close. A slit at the front runs up to meet the buttons and lets a flash of bare leg show when you move. The skirt is cut to feel soft and full as it nears the hem. This gives it a romantic feel and pretty movement when you move. This is the actual sample dress from the brand and has its original sample tag. Which means it very well may be the dress that was worn by some of the people that we have included here for reference. I love it. Excellent condition.
Fully lined in a pale blue silk chiffon and buttons down the front. Buttons on each cuff. Original hang tag and sample label attached.
Sleeves: 24"
Shoulders: approx 15"
Bust: 17" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 12-13" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 22" flat across from side seam to side seam
Bodice: 15" from top of shoulder to waist
Total length: 53" from top of shoulder to hem
Slit: 21.5 from the hem up
Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-SML
Item# DD4749
Reference Photos: (1-2) Resort 2018 Carolina Herrera Lookbook. / (3) Brie Larson on 'The Today Show' 2017. / (4) Grace Gummer at the 70th Emmy Awards’ HBO Party, September 17, 2018. / (5) Helena Bordon in Carolina Herrera.
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In 1952, Givenchy founded his namesake house on Rue Alfred de Vigny in Paris and quickly rose to fame as one of the grand couturiers. 16 years later for the 1968-69 season, he added a ready-to-wear line of clothing and accessories called 'Givenchy Nouvelle Boutique'. The line was initially sold in the United States exclusively through Bergdorf Goodman stores and was eventually available at other retailers as well. The line was high end and extremely well made. He launched this line to expand his customer base and it made to appeal specifically to his non-couture clients. This label continued until 1992. This dress is a gorgeous example from the time period. I love it.
The dress is a fantastical confection of dotted silk organza tiers that run from the top of the dress to the hem. The bodice is suspended from the shoulder with straps made of the same silk. Each strap curves over the shoulder and then the first ruffle of silk starts from around the top edge of the top. The neckline is cut fairly straight across on both the front and back. The ruffles continue down the entire length of the dress and each one gets wider than the one above it. There are eight ruffles in total and it is just spectacular. The movement that the ruffles create as you move is fantastic. The dress underneath is made from the same dotted fabric and it also follows that widening line of the dress all the way to the hem. The skirt falls to the floor in a dramatic sweep that widens out as it near the floor. This cut is incredibly easy to wear and flattering. I love how the silk ruffles move around you beautifully with the slightest movement. There is a little silk flower attached at the base of one strap that gives the dress a little extra pop of colour for the perfect finishing touch. Tons of hand finishing throughout. It is truly magical. Excellent condition with a minor note below.
Fully lined in a red silk and closes with a back set zipper and then each tier has tiny snaps to close each of the ruffles over the zipper to hide it. Tagged a vintage Givenchy 8. I see one tiny hole near the hem of one ruffle near the bottom. It otherwise appears to have been worn very little if at all. Hand finishes throughout.
Bust: to 17" flat across from side seam to side seam
Inner seam under the bust: 15.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: to 15" flat across from side seam to side seam
Inner hips: to 17.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Total length: 58" from top of shoulder to hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-SML
Item# DD4935
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John Bates founded the Jean Varon label in 1960 and it quickly became known for the futuristic designs and innovative use of fabrics. He dressed Dianna Rigg portraying Emma Peel in the 1965 season of the action TV series 'The Avengers' and that helped bring him even more commercial success. By the late sixties and into the seventies his work tended more towards more floating, feminine designs. Some of the very best pieces were made during this time period. His more caftan feeling dresses in particular are fabulous and they are some of my favourites to find. This one with its dramatic sleeves and plunge front is fantastic.
The cut of this dress is spectacular. The fabric is a rust clay coloured silk that is very light in weight and drapes beautifully once on. There are two secondary patterns woven into the fabric and this gives it a little pop that I love. The border on the neck line, around the waist, the bottom of the sleeves, and all the way around the hem have a square check design worked into them, and then the bodice and skirt have stripes. I love how he has put the stripes horizontally on the bodice to really highlight and add to the feeling of width through the sleeves and then the skirt is done the opposite way. The dress feels very sexy but in an easy to wear kind of way. It slips on and zips at the back. The top is spectacular. It is cut to skim over you to the waist. The waist is set on an upward curve and sits slightly below the bust line. The front plunges to the waist band for a gorgeous expanse of skin to show. There is space left between the two sides of the plunge and I love that little detail. The sleeves extend out from the fabric on the bodice with no side seams at all. They come out from the waist and are cut wide and straight. That makes them very full and they just sit beautifully on the body. The dress falls to the floor from there and the skirt widens out slightly as it nears the floor. It is gorgeous. Excellent condition with a minor note below
Unlined and closes at the back with a zipper. I see some tiny areas where the fabric has changed colour just very slightly. It's so minor, but I mentioned for accuracy. I could not capture it on camera.
Shoulders: no defined seam
Bust: no true side seams
Seam under the bust: to 13" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 20" flat across from side seam to side seam
Bodice: 10" from top of the shoulder to seam under the bust
Total length: 57" from top of the shoulder with just about 2" turned under the hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-SML
Item# DD4920
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
alexander mcqueen
Gorgeous Fall 2004 Alexander McQueen 'Pantheon Ad Lecum' Runway Off Shoulder Knit Dress
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This is a spectacular and rare dress from the Fall 2004 McQueen show and its twin walked the runway that season. On the runway it was shown with a sash wrapped around the hips and you could easily replicate this if you wished. It is equally as good on its own. The runway pieces were not produced in significant numbers and were often only found at the flagship stores in very limited quantities. For this collection McQueen was quoted as saying that he wanted to 'strip away all theatrics and focus purely on design'. The colours in the show focused on a nude palette and these taupe pieces were a predominant element in the collection. He also kept the embellishments to the bare minimum throughout the collection and this dress showcases that nod towards simplicity.
The dress is made from a very fine knit jersey that has a slight sheen to it. The seams are then either surged and top stitched, or have been covered and highlighted with a silk cording. This use of the seams as a way to create design details within the dress is a very McQueen feeling signature and it really highlights the cut of the piece. The neckline on the dress is a wide ribbed panel that has a lot of stretch available to it. You could wear it up and off the shoulders but it is best worn as shown on the runway, stretched and pulled down to leave the shoulders bare and exposed. The bodice is cut to skim over you and the sleeves are long. Each sleeve has some fullness above its 4" cuff. On the runway, they pulled the cuff up and inside so you just saw the part that blouses over and not the cuffs itself. A very clever styling trick. From there it continues past the hips to the floor. If you thought the way the seams have been detailed on the bodice is pretty, the skirt is magical. There are stacked side by side peaked panels whose tops sit at different heights around the entire skirt. Each has a touch of open cut work around their seams which gives the dress more depth and detail. This piecing of the side by side panels also allows the skirt to have more of a flare at its bottom. You can see how beautifully it moves in the runway video here. It is my understanding from my client that only a limited amount of these were produced. This is an iconic piece of McQueen's history. Excellent condition with a minor note below
Fully lined in an ivory stretch lingerie type fabric and slips over the head to wear. The knit jersey has stretch and the measurements below are the comfortable range when the dress is laying flat. I see a tiny area on the knit where it misses a stitch. Please see the photo after the label shot. Tagged a McQueen 38. Any change in colour you see is just the lighting. The stretch fabric should allow it to accommodate a variety of sizes.
Sleeves: 25"
Shoulders: variable
Bust: 17-21" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 11.5-15" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 17-22" flat across from side seam to side seam
Total length: approx 60" from the top of the natural shoulder to hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-MED
Item# DD4816
Reference Photos/Video: Fall 2004 Alexander McQueen.
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
lanvin
Amazing c.1971-1972 Lanvin by Jules-Francois Crahay Floral Printed Backless Halter Dress
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This dress was designed by Belgian-born Jules-Francois Crahay, who headed the Lanvin ateliers from 1964-1984. He has been noted as one of fashion’s 'great colorists with his colorful patterns making his 1970s Lanvin designs hugely desirable and influential.' His time at the Lanvin label is one of my personal favourites for the house. I especially love the his work during the period through the late sixties and into the early 1970s. He was a genius at print and colour and he pushed the envelope in terms of using cutting edge fabrics available during this time period. He mainly used this type of fabric for his 1971-1972 collections and in the book on his work 'Jules Francois Crahay" by Lannoo there is a detail photo of a couture fabric noted as been most likely from the fall 1971 Couture collection and you can see it has the same weave as this one. I love it.
This Lanvin dress is gorgeous. I am in absolute love with it. The dress has a gorgeous bright colour and print combination. The cotton pique it is made of is light in weight and holds colour exceptionally well so the colours are still crisp, bright and true. It has a beautiful texture running through it that adds visual interest and structure to the fabric so that it holds the intended shape. The front halter is created by two triangles that extend and curve up and behind the neck. They meet at the top of a wide band that defines the waist starting just under the bust. This leaves the back completely bare and open for a bit of a sexy feel to the dress. The band that gives the dress the shape is a full 5 1/2 inches wide. From there the skirt falls to the floor and it widens as it nears the hem. I love how the pattern is laid out onto the dress to emphasize the different parts of it. The halter has the smaller floral pattern and then the waist has stripes that are set just under the bust. You see the smaller floral anchored with stripes around the hips and then a giant floral pattern wraps around your legs. A double stripe anchors the whole dress at the hem and ties everything together. The colour is a coral red with those pops of yellow, green and soft orange. The pattern is spectacular and it is an instantly recognizable piece of his work. The perfect finish is the top set pockets that sit on each hip. I love it. Excellent condition
Fully lined through the band of the waist and the skirt in an orange silk and the halter top is unlined. It closes with a low set back zipper.
Bust: each halter covers approx 7" flat across from side to side
Seam at the top of the band: 16" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist seam at the bottom of the band: 13.75" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 10" flat across from side seam to side seam
Bodice: approx 13" from neck to top of the band at the waist
Total length: 59" from neck to hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED
Item# DD4756
Reference Photo: From the book "Jules Francois Crahay" by Lannoo.
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
malcolm starr
One of Two Identical 1970s Malcolm Starr Red Zipper Front Coats w Applique & Braiding Detail SZ MED
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This is one of two identical coats landing in the shop today. The only difference its that one is a medium (this one) and the other is a small. This is from the time period that Youssef Rizkallah headed the company. Youssef joined the Malcolm Starr label in 1969 and remained as the head designer until 1975. The years that Youssef headed the line are among some of my favorites and in particular his pieces that utilize quilting and patchwork, like these coats, are truly iconic. Rizkallah was born in Egypt and studied at the Ecole de dessin appliqué and the Ecole des arts decoratifs in Paris. His designs seem to combine that sense of couture lines that he gained in Paris with the colour and vividness of his homeland.
This is a wonderful piece that can be worn as either a coat or as a dress thanks to the zip front that completely opens. We were able to date it based on the very similar piece that was featured in the ad campaign for 1970. Which makes it a very early piece for his time at the label. The base of the coat is a red fabric that feels like a light wool that has a slight ribbed texture to it. The entire coat is detailed with a combination of a deep blue braiding and blue ric rac that follows the detailing and lines of the coat to emphasize the pattern and cut. Elaborate designs run around the hem and panels in the palest possible blue follow the lines of the coat. A floral patchwork is set around the hem and edged by the rib rack to create that fantastic design that you see. This anchors all the various parts of the design and gives a pop of contrast to the colour combination. The coat is collarless and it zips up the front. The shoulders are soft and the sleeves widen out to be full at their hem. The coat falls from the shoulders and widens out as it nears the hem. I took a shot of it laying flat so you can see the incredible shape that it has. It is quite full by the time it reaches the hem. Because it zips to close at the front and fully opens, you can wear this as a proper coat or you can wear it on its own as a dress, which lets it play double duty. It even has weights in the hem so that once on it falls perfectly in place and pockets that are hidden along those front seams. I just love that spectacular design through the body of the coat. It is so dramatic and like wearing art. I love it. Excellent overall condition with notes below
Fully lined in a hand set pale blue silk and closes down the front with an unpainted silver zipper. I see some faint yellowing, grubbiness to the bottom pale blue panel and maybe a touch of the same on the blue on the cuffs but I am being pretty picky there especially. Grubbiness to the inner lining around the hem and neck. Tagged a vintage Medium.
Sleeves: 24"
Inner shoulders: 14"
Bust: 19" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 21" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 26" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 58" from neck to hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-MED
Item# DD4481
Reference Photo: "The Malcolm Starr All Starrs" Ad, 1970.
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
christian dior
Gorgeous Resort 2018 Christian Dior by Maria Grazia Chiuri Stripe Knit Dress w Fringing
I Have a Question
The twin of this dress walked the runway as Look 38 for the 2018 resort season. The show was held in the remote Upper Las Virgenes Canyon Open Space Preserve in Calabasas, California. The show was star packed with Rihanna, Charlize Theron and Solange Knowles there alongside the fashion pack. The inspiration for the show came from the archives and Chiuri said 'she went to the archives, where she came across the house founder’s Lascaux collection of 1951, inspired by the ancient cave paintings discovered in southwestern France a decade earlier.' This dress to me also harkened back to the earlier Galliano era and the times that he did knits in a similar colurway. It was a favorite of the street style crowd and it is a gorgeous little creation. I believe that I read at the time these were all hand knit.
The dress is easy to wear and makes a huge visual impact that I love. It is made of a knit virgin wool that is light and feels fantastic once on the body. I love the horizontal stripes of colour that were meant to depict desert sunsets. The weave is loose and open so that you will see either your bare skin underneath or whatever you decide to wear underneath it. It is cut to skim over the body. The neckline is a wide boat neck and then it travels down over the bust, waist and hips, opening up to be quite flared as it reaches the hem. You can see in the reference video that this flare allows the dress to kick out around you when you move. The sleeves are cut to just above the elbow and they are finished with hand knotted yarn tassels in black. These circle the cuffs for pretty detail. These same hand-tied tassels are also set all the way around the hem for added movement there as well. It is just gorgeous. It appears to have been worn very little if at all. Excellent condition
Unlined and slips over the head to wear with no closures. It looks to have been worn very little if at all. Tagged a US4, GB8, FR36, IT40. The knit has considerable stretch. I have put the comfortable range of measurements lying flat and there may be a little bit of room beyond that once on the actual body
Sleeves: approx 15" and are 7-13" around the upper arm and is 12-14" around the cuff above the 2" fringes
Shoulders: no defined seam
Bust: 13-17.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 14-18" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 17-25" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 54" from neck to hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-MED
Item# DD4218
Reference Photos/Video: (1-3) Resort 2018 Christian Dior Look 38, Model Zuzu Tadeushuk. / (4-7) Sofie Valkiers in Dior at Paris Fashion Week 2017. / (8) credit unknown.
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
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