thea porter
Rare 1960s Thea Porter Couture Printed Silk Chiffon Dress w Gold Sequins & Gold Metal Thread Detailing
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This is a spectacular example of Thea Porter's work. It is very easy to wear with a touch of a caftan feel to it. That combined with those spectacular sleeves makes it very special piece. Her caftans and the dresses that had that caftan feel to them have come to represent Thea's work like no other pieces of her clothing that she designed. Everyone who was anyone wore her work back in the day, including Elizabeth Taylor who was a huge fan and collector. This dress is just spectacular and a very special and rare piece.
The dress is made from a printed silk chiffon that has a swirling design with a black backdrop. The print mixes different shades of green with pops of blue and the print covers the entire dress. The bodice has an empire cut and the front scoops low and wide. Detailing the edge of the neck and down the front is an antique gold metal cord embellishment. This circles around the neckline and part way down the front. Hand made frog knots made of the same cording close the dress down the front. The same gold cord covers the seam where the sleeves are set into the dress and more of it sit above the scalloping detail of the skirt. Thea was known to hunt antique stores and markets during her travels and use what she found in her designs and this is certainly a found antique textile. The dress buttons down the front to just past the waist. There is a seam set under the bust and then the dress falls from there in a loose and easy feel. The sleeves are fantastic. From just above the elbow to the cuff they balloon out to be spectacularly full. This lower portion of the sleeve is unlined and this gives it a touch of transparency. The final detail is that little scalloped panel that runs around the skirt above the bottom hem. It adds just a tiny touch of movement, and added detail that is lovely. This is very special and rare piece of Thea's work and it is also very beautiful. Excellent condition
Fully lined in a hand set black silk lining except for the lower sleeves. It closes down the front with gold antique cord loops and frog knots. Each cuff hooks to close. Tagged a vintage UK 12. Finished by hand throughout. There is some slight patina to the cording. A tiny bit of grubbiness to the seam under each arm on the inner lining.
Sleeves: 26" and 11" around the upper arm
Slightly inset shoulders: 14"
Bust: 17" flat across from side seam to side seam
Seam under the bust: 14.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 21" flat across from side seam to side seam
Bodice: 10.5" from the top of the shoulder to the seam under the bust
Total length: 56" from neck to hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-SML
Item# DD4570
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
john anthony
Fall 1980 John Anthony Couture Black Hand Sequin & Beaded Jacket w Incredible Rhinestone Closures
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John Anthony's business was all done on a made-to-order basis. That means that each piece is the only one that exists, or in the very occasional circumstance that there are similar pieces, only a very limited amount of pieces were made. And to make things even a little more special.... the pieces I have in the shop come directly from John's archive. He is one of the great American couturiers and he was known for his sharp tailoring and striking evening wear. He launched his atelier in 1971 and he quickly rose to fame, winning a Coty award in 1972 and then again in 1976. This jacket is from his Fall 1980 collection and is the original sample from his archives.
This jacket is stunning to see in real life. It has a beautiful sleek cut and it is meant to be more fitted through the body. I love that it completely closes as this allows you to wear it on its own or layer it over other pieces. The shoulders have light padding for shape and the sleeves are long. The waist is brought in just a touch. It is meticulously tailored and John told me that creating jackets were one of his favourites things to do. They are infinitely challenging to have them sit perfectly on the body and his are tailored to a master level. It has no collar and the neckline is a sleek V. It closes down the front with a series of hidden silk covered snaps and then there are three glass rhinestone buckles that close over the front. They are spectacular. The entire jacket is covered in glossy black sequins. These have all been set by hand and completely cover the silk that the jacket is made from. Each sequin is laid out so that it slightly overlaps its neighbour. To think of the man hours out into this jacket is incredible. The final finishing touch on this one are the bold motifs beaded onto the sequins on each side at the front. These have a 3D effect and sit up and off of the sequins below. The personal attention to each piece is clearly seen in the workmanship of his designs. His work is very expensive and beaded jackets like this retailed for up to $6,500 in the 80s and 90s which would be around $25k in modern dollars to recreate at this level. It appears to have been worn very little if at all. Excellent condition
Filly lined in a black silk and closes at the front with hidden set silk covered snaps. The rhinestone clasps close over that. Padding in each shoulder. Made by hand. A one of a kind..
Sleeves: 22" long and 13" around the upper arm
Shoulders: 16.5"
Bust: 17" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 15.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 18" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 24" from neck to hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED
Item# DD4551
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
alexander mcqueen
Fabulous 2007 Alexander McQueen Strapless Silk Black & Grey Tone Feather Print Dress
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This is an interesting dress in that it is instantly recognizable as a McQueen piece and yet it was not one that was featured on the runway. It would have been a piece that was produced for limited production in stores. I have seen an all black version of this dress but this printed version is far more rare and more interesting I think. It is truly a wonderful original McQueen piece.
The dress is made from a black silk with that gorgeous feather print screened onto it. Once on it drapes beautifully over the body. It is strapless with a built-in inner cupped corset bodice to give you support and to hold the dress in place on you. The top of the bodice is curved and it crosses over itself at the front. This adds a pretty softness to the front. There is a skinny band of patent leather that sits under the bust and then the rest of the dress drapes down and over the body from there. The silk through the body of the dress crosses over itself at the front and the edge is curved down one side and then around the hem. The choice of feather light silk for this one keeps it light and easy and as you move the silk billows around you. It also creates this incredible movement when you walk. I love how the feather pattern is laid out specifically to follow this beautiful curve of the dress. The silk would've had to be specialty printed in order to achieve this feel. I also love how the pattern is carried up and over and into the bust so wonderfully. It is spectacular. Instantly recognizable as his work. Excellent condition.
Fully lined in a black silk and has an inner boned structured corset with wired cups. The inner corset closes with its own zipper and then a hidden set exterior zipper closes over that tagged a vintage McQueen 42 and appears to have been worn very little if at all.
Bust: 16-16.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Band under the bust: 14" flat across from side seam to side seam
Inner corset waist: 13.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: open because of wrap design
Bodice: 6" from top of bodice to band under the bust
Total length: 50.5" from top of bodice to longest point of the back hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-SML
Item# DD4985
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chanel
Outstanding Fall 2001 Chanel by Karl Lagerfeld Runway Strapless Sequin & Lace Panel Dress
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The twin of this dress walk the runway for the Fall 2001 Chanel show. The show title was "Coco Pop" and part of the show had references to pop artist Roy Lichtenstein. There were also beautiful pieces that worked in the Chanel logo, chains and flowers and you can see on this dress that when you look closely at the sequin pattern that runs down the front they actually form the famous Chanel Camellia flower. I love having the reference photos and video for you so you can see how gorgeous this is once on the body.
Everything about this dress has that chic Chanel feel that makes many of Karl's designs feel like forever classics. Even without the fact that its twin walked the runway show, the dress feels very Chanel. It is beautiful in person and the simple lines and cut make it the kind of dress that you can wear multiple times while the styling and accessories you choose to add can make it feel different each time. It combines a flat pile cotton velvet backed in silk for the body of the dress and then the front panels have a nude silk backing and the lace overlay with a sequin finish. I love the texture and interest that this combination gives the dress. It has just enough weight to hold the intended shape beautifully. It is strapless with boning inside to help to hold the dress in place around you. The waist is shaped and brought in but there is no seam going across the dress to break the eye. From there, it skims over the hips and widens out to the hem. I love how the back is cut slightly longer than the front so you get that beautiful line behind you. The front lace panel is divided into two sections. The one that goes over the bust is done on a curve with sequins outlining its edges. Sequin Camellia flowers sit on the lace and are made from a variety of muted metallic sequins. Another curving edged panel runs all the way to the hem below the waist and again we see beautiful flowers done over the lace. They are concentrated more towards the top area and then start to disappear as they reach the hem. There is a little mother of pearl and black logo piece that sits on the side of the waist with the Chanel logo embossed on the mother-of-pearl plate. Just to ensure that you know it is indeed Chanel. It is an exceptional piece of Chanel. Excellent condition
Fully lined in a black silk and the lace panels have another layer of nude coloured silk between that and the lace. The inner bodice is boned and made of a lingerie stretch net. An inner waist hooks to close and the dress closes at the back with a hidden set zipper. Tagged a vintage Chanel 40. It appears to have been worn very little if at all.
Bust: 17-17.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 14" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 20" flat across from side seam to side seam
Total length: 52" from top of bodice to front hem, 55" to the back hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED
Item# DD4986
Reference Photos/Video: Fall 2001 Chanel Runway.
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roberto cavalli
Extraordinary 2015 Roberto Cavalli Runway Feather & Net Dress w Bead & Sequin Detailing
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This gorgeous Roberto Cavalli dress is from 2015 and its twin was worn by Naomi Campbell for Fashion for Relief where she walked the runway. I am happy to have some reference photos from the show so you can see how spectacular this dress is once on the body. It is exceptional and extremely beautiful.
The dress is made from a combination of a black net mixed with silk chiffon. The bodice portion of the dress is made from the netting and then it has a layer of bead work applied onto the net with silk chiffon backing the bead work areas so that it is opaque enough to wear. The parts that are not beaded have a touch of transparency to them. The detailing on the dress is amazing. Gold tube beads, seed beads and sequins are set in swirling patterns across the bodice. As a pattern runs down and over the waist & the hips the colours of the sequins gradually changed to a more muted gold and then to a silver. There are prong set, gold and clear glass crystals scattered throughout. The edges of the neck and arms have been finished with silver beads and tiny silver sequins. The skirt remarkable and it is in its original uncut length. It is covered in black feathers and each one has been attached to the silk of the skirt with either a sequin or a little prong set crystal. It falls from the top of the hip and widens out to the hem. When you move the skirt has incredible movement around you. The fabric is so light and airy that when you walk it creates this incredible floating sensation. The back of the dress is cut a bit longer than the front so you have a sweeping feel behind you. It is an incredibly beautiful dress and no matter how good it looks in the photos the sensation and tactile feeling of the fabric and lightness of it when you have it in hand is just phenomenal. It looks to have been worn very little if at all. Excellent condition.
The embellished parts of the halter are backed with a black silk so it is opaque and the skirt has an inner silk chiffon lining. It closes with a back hidden set zipper. Perhaps the occasional bead missing here and there. Tagged a Cavalli 38.
Bust: has no fixed side seams. The front covers to approx 15-17" flat across
Waist: 12-13" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 18" flat across from side seam to side seam
Total length: 62" from neck to front hem, 70" to the longest point of the back hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-MED
Item# DD4662
Reference Photos/Video: Naomi Campbell in Roberto Cavalli for the Fashion For Relief charity fashion show at London Fashion Week, February 2015. (Video by Tashie Tinks)
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This is a fantastic and surprisingly avant garde Haute Couture dress by Pierre Cardin. It is from the Spring 1985 collection and we have included some reference photos of the twin of the dress on the runway so that you can see how it sits on the body. They really give you an idea of how fantastic and unusual this is once it is on the body. It is a beautiful and elegant piece that may not be as mod in feel as some of Cardin's earlier pieces but it is one that shows the breadth of his talent. From a historical perspective it's also an interesting insight on the volume and play on proportion done in the 1980s.
Throughout his career Cardin often played with volume and for the 1985 collection he put huge voluminous caped bodices over narrow skirts, a silhouette we first saw him begin to do in the late 1970s. This dress is made from a fine silk that is covered in a dynamic and bold floral print. You can see that fantastic play on volume in the cut. The dress was completely made by hand and the fine workmanship is wonderful to see. That avant garde cut is all created by clever seaming and traditional couture methods and this mix is fascinating. There is an inner more sheath-like dress and then a caped piece attaches over that. The neckline is set higher across the front with a pleated over piece that falls from the shoulders. At the front it is set into a black silk ribbon that wraps around the hip area. Your arms slip underneath it at the sides and then the cape extends downwards into a long point at the back. The top layer has been softly pleated and this gives it more volume and movement as you move. It is also what gives it that incredible and unusual silhouette that you see. The skirt falls from under the wide black silk ribbon that is attached around the hip area and it is done in a sleek and simple cut to the floor. It is very chic and unusual. Excellent condition with minor notes below
Fully lined in a hand set white silk and closes with a back hidden set zipper on the inner dress. At some point the hem was let down and I have left it for the extra length. You can see a faint line where it was folded. There are light shoulder pads whose inner stuffing has degraded. I see some minor yellowing to the inner lining around the top of the zipper area and very light grubbiness to the very edge of the inner arm that you don't see because it is covered by the cape.
Inner bust: to 19" flat across from side seam to side seam
Inner waist: 17.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 20.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Bodice: 15" from top of bodice to waist
Total length: 59" from waist to hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: MED-LRG
Item# DD4981
Reference Photos: Spring 1985 Pierre Cardin Haute Couture.
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During John Galliano's career he has arguably produced some of the most glamorous dresses in the fashion's history. His work often has a feeling of the decadence and abandonment of the twenties and thirties with their beautiful cuts. They mix Old Hollywood with the minimalist spirit of the nineties and early 2000s. This is an amazing example of his work that I am dating to 2006 based on similar work he was doing that season for both Dior and his own self named label. It is gorgeous. This is a production dress made for the shops in limited quantities. It is a really beautiful dress.
This sleek little number is cut so very beautifully. It is suspended from the shoulders by straps that curve over and down the back. The dress is cut to follow the curves of your body but without being super tight. The neckline dips in a scoop at the front and I love the elaborate sequin detailing that you see set across the bust area. The upper front bust is a single layer of silk organza and then below that heavy sequin work wraps around you to the back. I love the lace panel that peeks out at the back and the bare expanse of skin above. The sequins and beads on the bodice have been heavily applied and sit up and off the dress slightly. The waist is a double layered band of the silk organza and then the area around the upper hips is a single layer so you get a touch of transparency. He has create the shape around the hips with a series of vertical darts that go all the way around you. The long triangle shaped strips of fabric that make the darts then become a design detail in themselves. There is an inner nude lining underneath and it is finished with another wide band of lace. This is what you see under the skirt in these photos. So you have coverage but there is still a touch of transparency with the lace peeking through. It is very sexy. It skims over the hips and then falls to the floor flaring out as it falls. The lower part of the skirt widens out as it reaches the hem and extra fabric has been worked all the way around so you get a sweeping feel. It is so good. Excellent condition with minor notes below.
Fully lined to just past the hip with a inner nude silk lining that ends in a wide band of lace. It closes at the side with a hidden set zipper. There is some light snagging that goes across the waist panel in different areas. I see some very faint whitish coloured marks here and there around the hem and near some seams where the silk organza has faded slightly and some marks on the inner lining of the bodice that do not go through. Please see the photos after the label shot
Bust: 16-17" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 13" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 18" flat across from side seam to side seam
Bodice: 16" from top of bodice to waist
Total length: 65" from waist to hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-SML
Item# DD4980
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The beautiful 1960s strapless dress is a gorgeous example of a fabulous unlabeled dress from this time period. The main portion of the dress is black and then it has a wide panel in a dusty pink running down the full front. Both colours were then covered in a floral embroidery and this embroidery is scattered over the entire dress. I love the contrast and visual interest that this creates. The floral design has been kept in the same colour palette so that it doesn't feel overwhelming. The bodice is strapless and has a built in boned corset. It is meant to be fitted to the body and holds both you and the dress in place. The waist is cinched and then the skirt poufs out below that to create all that gorgeous volume around you. The skirt has a ton of fabric. We did not use any added underskirts for the photos. There is room that you could add a separate underskirt underneath if you really wanted to make it extra full and turn it into a fairy-tale cupcake dress. It is a beautiful and romantic little dress. Excellent condition with a note below.
Fully lined through the bodice with a built-in lightly boned corset. The rest of the dress is lined in a black organza. The inner corset closes with its own zipper and then the dress closes with a back zipper over that. I see some grubbiness along the inside upper edge of the bodice. The hem was let down at some point and you can see a slight line where it was originally folded. I see a bit of shiny marks and some minor grubbiness here and there on the part of the hem that was originally flipped up.
Bust: 15-16.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 12.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: open
Bodice: 8.5" from top of bodice to waist
Total length: 50" from top of bodice to front hem, 53.5" to the longest point of the back hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-SML
Item# DD4978
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givenchy
Late 1970s Early 1980s Hubert de Givenchy Haute Couture Gold Embroidered Off Shoulder Dress
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Hubert de Givenchy moved to Paris in 1942 where he worked for Jacques Fath, then Elsa Schiaparelli, and eventually Cristobal Balenciaga. Givenchy often attributed much of his later success to the years with to Mr Balenciaga and what he learned while there. In 1952, Givenchy founded his namesake house in Paris and quickly rose to fame as one of the great couturiers of our time. I am always pleased to find any of his Haute Couture work as it is so rare. This particular dress is exceptional with every detail on it finished to Haute Couture standards.
This is an amazing true Haute Couture Givenchy dress that is a very rare and special find. Two things of immediate note for this dress. First is the absolutely beautiful fabric combination. The bodice and sleeves are an inky black silk velvet and then the ruffles on the neckline, end of each sleeve, and the entire top layer of the skirt is a starched cotton and silk mix netting that has beautiful little gold metal thread flowers hand embroidered over the netting. I took closeups of both the front of these flowers and also their backs so that you can see the beautiful workmanship put into each individual flower. I also included close ups of the hand finished seams on the interior of the dress. The time and technique to complete this dress would have been astounding and I cannot even imagine how many hours this would have taken. The second thing of note is that stunning cut through the neckline. It is tremendously flattering to have that bare expanse of skin across the top of the shoulder like that. It feels a little bit sexy with the way the top sits off the shoulder to leave that expanse of bare skin. You could also wear it on the shoulder but I chose to show it off. I love that you have the versatility of the two different ways to wear it. A ruffle goes all the way around the neckline and around the end of each sleeve. It is shaped to come in at the waist and then curves out over the hips. The skirt is set into a seam that sits at the top of the hips and the netting is softly gathered into that seam so you get a touch of fullness. As the skirt flows down to the hem it expands outwards to give you pretty movement as you walk. There is a full black silk organza inner skirt under the top layer of the skirt so that it is opaque enough to wear. It is spectacular. This is a very beautiful example of Givenchy from this time period and an amazing example of the technical skills that can be achieved in Haute Couture. It is easy to see why his work is the subject of so many books and retrospective shows at museums worldwide. Excellent condition
The dress is fully lined in a matching hand set black silk. It zips to close and an inner waist stay hooks to close. Completely made by hand throughout to Haute Couture standards. It appears to have been worn very little if at all. Proper couture tag and numbered tape present.
Sleeves: 26" and are 11.5" around the upper arm
The opening across the neckline is 18" flat across from side to side
Bust: 16" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 12.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Seam at top of hip: 16.5" flat across from side to side
Hips: open
Bodice: 19" from top of natural shoulder to seam at the top of the hip
Total length: 61.5" from top of natural shoulder to hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-SML
Item# DD4975
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christian lacroix
Spectacular Fall 1999 Christian Lacroix Runway Strapless Floral Silk Brocade Dress
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Christian Lacroix launched his Haute Couture house in 1987 and instantly caused a sensation around the world. A ready-to-wear line soon followed along with perfumes and menswear. His collections are always exotic, lavish affairs and his designs seemed to span the decades with their eccentric glamour pulled from multiple sources of inspiration. This dress is from the Fall 1999 collection and Its twin walked the runway. The runway version had bows added at points where the skirt is gathered up and the model wore a spectacular head piece with the dress. It was one of my favourite looks in the show and its a truly wonderful dress.
This Lacroix is magical. The dress is made of a stunning silk brocade that hold the colours and shape of the dress beautifully. The silk is woven through with an oversized floral print and the flowers are scattered over the dress from the bodice to the hem. It is like wearing a full bouquet of flowers and the slightly metallic feel of the thread that makes up the flowers makes it even prettier. The bodice is strapless and is cut to be fitted to the body and hug you right down to the waist. The skirt is gathered into pleats along the sides of the waist and then under that are offset tiers that fall all the way to the floor in a cascade of silk brocade. There are yards and yards of silk that have gone into the construction of that skirt. It is gathered in and around the poufed tiers by wide bands of a black velvet. These give it the proper weight and structure to hold the gorgeous shape of the skirt. An inner net and sheer silk layer is set inside the skirt. This inner layer is finished with pleats and velvet ribbon along its edge. This inner skirt peaks out from under the edge of the top silk layer and adds a beautiful feminine detail. The skirt is cut longer at the back so that you get a beautiful sweeping feel behind you. The combination of that stunning silk and the way that it has been cut combined with the gathered tiers creates this stunning effect when you move and walk. It is that perfect mix of elegance, femininity, romance and fantasy that Christian excelled at. Excellent condition
Fully lined in a black silk and is lightly boned through the inner bodice. It zips to close at the back and has a hooked waist stay inside. In its original uncut length and appears to have been worn very little if at all. Tagged a vintage Lacroix 42.
Bust: 17.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 14" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: open
Bodice: 9" from top of bodice to waist
Total length: 53" from top of bodice to front hem and is 61.5" to the longest point of the back hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED
Item# DD4976
Reference Photos/Video: Fall 1999 Christian Lacroix.
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Bill Gibb was one of the most influential designers in 1970s Britain and his clothes were worn by the rich, the famous and the beautiful. Much of his work verged on couture and he was unrelenting in striving for perfection. His work has a high fantasy element to it. Every piece I bring into the shop is very special and the range he had was incredible. I have had a deep brown version of this dress in the shop I love finding a version in black. Its twin in ivory was also a part of the 'Great Names in Fashion' exhibit at the Fashion Museum Bath.
The dress is made of a fluid black jersey fabric that is light in weight and has an amazing drape. It flows to the floor from the densely beaded panel that sits across the upper bust. A second panel of beading is set at the back. Both panels have been completely hand covered with a design that is made out of hundreds of ivory and gold glass tube beads. Along the one side of the front panel there is a row of hand carved mother of pearl buttons that run from the top of the shoulder to just past the waist. The buttons are functional and wrap an overlay of fabric over the inner dress. This panel loops under the opposite arm and then wraps around you to the back where it is attached. This gives the dress a gorgeous Grecian feel and it also gives it added movement when you move. The dress underneath is a long sheath that falls from the shoulders and widens out slightly as it nears the hem. The sleeves are long and each one ends with more of those same buttons. The entire dress is detailed with strips of tiny little raised beads on a silver base. These follow all of the edges of the dress and they are even on the long interior seams even though you don't easily see them. I just love that he did that and it just shows you the attention that was paid to dresses during this time period. They help the dress to fall perfectly and they also catch the light for added glamour. It is stunning and a beautiful example of Gibb's work. Excellent condition with a tiny note below
The dress is unlined and slips over the head top wear. The attached panel buttons into place over the interior dress. Each cuff has loop and buttons to close. It appears have been worn very little if at all. The loose and easy cut should allow it to fit a range of sizes. I have given the comfortable range of measurements while laying flat. On a smaller frame it will just drape more. The striped applique at the top of one shoulder has a couple of beads missing on one part. Please see the photo after the label shot
Sleeves: 21.5"
Slightly dropped shoulders: 15"
Bust: 15-18.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 14-19" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 16-22" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 58" from top of shoulder to hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-MED
Item# DD4232
Reference Photos: Bill Gibb Dress on display at the "Great Names of Fashion Display" Exhibit at Fashion Museum Bath.
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louis feraud
Unusual 1990s Louis Feraud Partial Wrap Black Jersey Dress w Cut Out Stacked Circle Hem
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Louis Feraud opened his first boutique in 1950 in Cannes selling sundresses to the jet set. When Brigitte Bardot was photographed in a white pique and lace number, he became the darling of the fashion world. By 1956 he had moved to Paris and opened a couture atelier and in 1960s made his first official couture presentation. Ready-to-wear followed in 1970. He won the Golden Thimble in in 1978 and again in 1984.
I love this pretty and unusual dress. It is made out of a black jersey that has an inner dress that you step into and zip to close at one side. At the front there is an attached panel that runs down the full side of the dress and you wrap this over that inner dress and two long attached ties hold it in place at the waist. I love that you can just tie them at one side as I have or you can also wrap them around your waist if you want a really cinched in feel. The dress is suspended from two tiny straps that curve over your shoulders and drop into a V at the front. The back is scooped and you can control how loose or cinched it is at the waist. It skims over the hips and down to that very unusual hemline. The entire bottom of the skirt is made up of cut out circles that have been strung on long strings at different lengths all the way around you. This gives it tremendous movement as you move and is a very unusual treatment. I love how unique the dress is and how it is so easy to wear. Excellent condition.
The inner dress that the panel wraps over is lined with its black own silk chiffon lining. It zips to close with a hidden set zipper at the side and then the panel wraps over and ties into place that with attached ties at the waist. Tagged a FR38, D36.
Bust: 17-18" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: to 15" flat across from side seam to side seam and then you can cinch it with the ties
Hips: to 22" flat across from side seam to side seam
Total length: 56" from top of shoulder to the longest point that the detailing piece is dangle.
Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED
Item# DD4971
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The twin of the dress walk the Fall 2009 runway for Look 55. Karl titled the Fall 2009 collection Belle Brummell inspired by Beau Brummell, a British Regency dandy who started a trend with how men wore caveats. Vogue noted that Karl similarly managed to translate the trends of the season in his own way. And did it in a way that perfectly balanced being grown-up and youthful. They went on to say that "That formula transmitted some of the loveliness of Karl Lagerfeld's sublime origami-paper Spring Couture collection into super-feminine white collar and cuff treatments—frothy plissé ruffs, chiffon camellias, and French maid frills encircled the neck or sleeves on soft, fitted black silhouettes." Many of the pieces focused on the shoulder and this dress is no exception. My photos don't come close to doing it justice. You can see in the reference photos how beautifully it is on the body and I love that Princess Charlotte Casiragh chose one to wear to Karl Lagerfeld “Karl For Ever” Tribute in 2019.
I'm so happy that we have reference photos because I do not think that this dress really shows off in the best light on my dress form. It is one of those pieces that is cut to move and sit best on a body. The dress is made out of a light black silk with a squared off neckline. A soft black silk chiffon bow sits at the centre for detail. All of the seaming on the dress is done vertically. It skims over the bust and is brought in at the waist by that seaming and then curves back out over the hips. It flares out from there and the entire bottom of the skirt has angled black silk chiffon insets all the way around it. These are triangular in shape and widen out as they near the hem so that the lower skirt is quite full. I also love that they are not backed with any lining so as you move, you get a touch of transparency through each panel. You can see by how much in the reference photos. The sleeves are amazing. They are more of a capelet really that wraps all the way around the back. It creates the prettiest movement as it catches the air. Seaming holds the caplet in place just below the shoulders and the fabric that runs over each shoulder has light padding inside. Is tremendously beautiful. Excellent condition.
Fully lined in a black silk with silk chiffon insets around the skirt that have some transparency to them. It closes with a hidden set back zipper with hook and eye above that. It appears to have been worn very little at all. Each shoulder is lightly shaped and padded. Tagged a Chanel 36.
Sleeves: approx 13"
Shoulders: approx 15" with the padding sitting slightly off the edge of the shoulder to create the shape you see
Bust: to 17.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 13-14" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 18" flat across from side seam to side seam
Total length: 53" from top of shoulders to hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-SML
Item# DD4970
Reference Photos/Video: (1-2) Fall 2009 Chanel, Look 55. Model Sasha Pivovarova. / (3-4) Princess Charlotte Casiraghi, in Chanel, for the Karl Lagerfeld “Karl For Ever” Tribute in 2019.
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Bill Blass launched his label in 1970 when he bought out the Maurice Rentner label and re-launched it under his own name. Blass was arguably one of the most famous of the American designers. His forte was the ability to mix simple styles with unexpected materials in way that was very flattering to the wearer. These pants are so unusual and I absolutely love them. This is the type of piece that you are only going to find in vintage.
These are based on the classic harem pant that you see in many cultures around the world. You have to wonder if he travelled somewhere and was inspired to make a version for the western market. They are made out of a beautiful black silk chiffon with another layer of chiffon inside acting as the lining. Onto the chiffon is an amazing pattern of flowers and vines done in metallic gold, red, green and purple. This gorgeous design completely covers the pants from top to bottom. As they near the hem of the pants the pattern changes to horizontal stripes that anchor the entire design. They have no closure. Instead there is elastic around the waist so you just pull them on and go. The bottom of the pants also have elastic and this lets them blouse and balloon up around the ankles. It is an extremely simple design that is easy to wear. The gold and metallic colours are so striking. These would be fantastic to travel with and you can easily dress them up or down. Excellent condition
Fully lined in a black chiffon with elastic at the waist and cuffs. They appear to have been worn very little if at all. The elastic at the waist does give them flexibility in measurements. I have given the approximate range of measurements and I think if you were smaller you could have the elastic at the waist tightened. They are very easy to fit.
Elastic waist: 12.5-21" flat across from side to side
Hips: open
Length: 43" from waist to hem
Inseam: 29"
Gusset: 16" from back waist to inner seam
Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-LRG
Item# DD4964
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christian dior
Fall 2019 Christian Dior by Maria Grazia Chiuri Runway Black Net Bead & Sequin Over Skirt
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The twin of this overlay skirt walked the runway for the Fall 2019 season for Look 36. This was the show where Maria took a look to the past for her inspiration for the collection. Vogue's Sally Singer noted that; "Chiuri sought inspiration for this collection from Britain’s postwar Teddy Girls, those working-class, rock ’n’ roll–loving beehived vixens who hit the clubs in a mix of men’s Edwardian jackets, full skirts, blue jeans, leather, velvet, and eyeliner galore. She was struck by the similarity in silhouette and the optimistic excess that characterized Christian Dior’s designs of the same period. She was also moved by Yves Saint Laurent’s addition to the Dior pantheon of a men’s black leather jacket for women in the late 1950s. So, heritage, hipsters, and herstory" This skirt is one of the ones that felt most like a heritage piece from that show while still having a modern flare. It is just absolutely lovely.
The skirt is made out of a beautiful black silk net and the fabric choice is what allows it to hold the shape that you see. It is also the perfect fabric to have been able to add the extensive bead and sequin work that have been applied to it. At the waist there is a thin band that cinches it in. The skirt is full under that and will fall to about mid-calf to the ankle depending on your height. There are two layers of the net that make up the skirt and it is fully split and open at the front. It wraps over itself just a touch at the front and there is a little flat bow for added detail. I love that this gives you a piece that you can layer over existing pieces in your wardrobe. You can take a simplest little dress that you have, pop this over it and all of a sudden you have an amazing and elaborate look. The entire skirt has been appliqued with little floral sprigs that are made of hand set metal coils, tiny seed beads, sequins and what look to be mother of pearl finished paillettes. All of the work is done by hand and it is extraordinary. It looks to have never been worn or worn very little. It is a very little special piece that has a huge array of styling options. Excellent condition.
It is made out of two layers of the black netting and meant to have a slight transparency since you layer it over other pieces. It closes with snap and hook an eye at the waist and is fully open down the front.
Waist: 12" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: open
Total length: 36" from waist to hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-SML
Item# DD4963
Reference Photos/Video: Fall 2019 Look 36. Model Hyun Ji Shin.
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This is a beautiful skirt by Adolfo. Adolfo started his career under Balenciaga and like Halston, he was a successful milliner before opening his own fashion house. He became know for his Chanel inspired suiting and beaded pieces. Adolfo often did custom work for his clients who ranged from the Duchess of Windsor, to Jackie Kennedy Onassis, Gloria Vanderbilt and Nancy Reagan. He even won a Coty Award in 1969. I love his work and am very pleased to have this exceptional skirt in the shop today.
The skirt is made out of a beautiful back chiffon that is has a second layer of black silk floating underneath it. The waist is banded for shape and then two layers of silk fall from there to float over you. It will fall all the way to the floor or just above depending on your height. Onto the top layer of chiffon he added a geometric pattern that combines black eyelash velvet and gold metallic eyelash fabric. This pattern covers the entire skirt. The bottom hem of both the outer and inner layer are both finished with a band of metallic gold lame. I love the effect that the touch of metallic gives to the skirt. It is fabulous and it looks to have never been worn or worn very little. Excellent condition.
Fully lined in a second layer of black silk as described above. It closes with a zipper and a hidden set snap and a hook and eye at the waist.
Waist: 12.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: open
Length: 41" from waist to hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-SML
Item# DD4962
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There is very little information on the Roger Freres label out there but from what I can gather, he was an independent dressmaker that made clothes from the early 1960s to the 1970s. His work was well made and hard to find. This little dress by him is phenomenal. It is made from a lightweight silk organza that has a touch of the most subtle shimmer to it. The top layer sits over an inner nude chiffon lining through the bodice and an inner, more straight cut skirt that is backed in the same nude silk and then topped with the same black silk organza as the outer skirt. This softens the black and gives the entire dress this touch of transparency and airiness as you see the inner layers of the dress through the outer layer. From a distance it adds the illusion that you are perhaps more bare underneath than you really are. The inner bodice has a beautiful curving wide band of prong set rhinestones in various shapes and sizes. They have all been hand applied. I love the effect this creates as you see them through the outer layer of silk. The top layer is kept simple with a scooped neckline and easy and full cut over the inner bust. Each sleeve is tremendously full and billows out above a wide cuff. On each cuff, you have another highly detailed and intricate pattern made from those same prong set rhinestones in various shapes and sizes. The skirt is equally as gorgeous and is wide and full above the inner skirt, widening out quite a bit as it nears the hem. It is incredible and when you move it catches the air and moves beautifully. Excellent condition with a minor note below.
Fully lined in a nude silk lingerie netting through the bodice. The inner skirt is lined in a nude silk and then covered on its exterior in the same silk organza as the top layer of the dress. Ribbon finished inner hem. It closes with a back zipper and then the black organza snaps to close over that. Light boning through the bodice. The attached belt hooks to close at the back. Each cuff snaps to close with hidden set snaps. Perhaps the occasional rhinestone missing on the cuffs but I am being pretty picky.
Sleeves: 24.5" and our 13" around the upper arms
Shoulders: 15"
Inner bust: to 18" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 13" flat across from side seam to side seam
Inner hips: to 22" flat across from side seam to side seam
Bodice: 15" from neck to waist
Total length: 56" from neck to hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED
Item# DD4957
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Richard Tyler was the designer to wear in the 1990s. He won the Council of Fashion Designers of America New Talent award in 1993 and in 1994 and 1995 he won the Council's Womenswear Designer of the Year award. Julia Roberts, Janet Jackson and Sigourney Weaver were just a few of the stars who loved his work and wore it on various red carpets. He was known for his impeccable tailoring and finishes. He employed some of the best tailor and seamstresses in the business at the time. This is a stunning example of how much impact one of his minimalist pieces could have.
This sleek little number is in perfect condition and is cut beautifully. It is suspended from the shoulders by tiny straps that curve over and down the back. The dress is completely bias cut to follow the curves of your body but without being super tight. The neckline dips in a V at the front and I love the detailing that you see there. The front bust has an inset that angles into a point to about the waist area. The inset is made from little strips of a black velvet that have been applied over a black silk chiffon and then backed in a nude silk chiffon. So you have coverage but there is still a touch of transparency. It is very sexy. Another V dips down for a bare expanse of skin to show at the back. The shape through the waist is created by vertical seams that curve over the body. The silk skims over the waist and hips and then falls to the floor. The lower part of the skirt widens out as it reaches the hem and extra fabric has been worked into the back so you get a bit of a sweeping feel as you walk away. It looks so simple on my dress form but this is a dress that is a bombshell piece once it is on an actual body. It is so good. Excellent condition.
The panel at the front is lined in nude silk chiffon as described above and the rest of the dress is unlined. It closes at the side with a hidden set zipper. It appears to have been worn very little if at all. Tagged a vintage Richard Tyler US8.
Bust: 17-19" flat across the back from side seam to side seam
Waist: to 15" flat across the back from side seam to side seam
Hips: 18-21" flat across the back from side seam to side seam
Total length: 64" from top of shoulder to hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED
Item# DD4948
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
yves saint laurent
Spring 1987 Yves Saint Laurent Runway Black Net & Raffia High Low Dress w Ruffle Detail
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This gorgeous little dress is the ready-to-wear version of the Spring 1987 Haute Couture version. We have included the runway photos of the couture version and the editorial photos to give you an idea of the dress on. This version is simplified version but still has very similar line. It is fascinating that he did this at times with a few select pieces from his collections so that his non-couture clients had access to his couture designs. The 1987 collection is a favourite and I love having this dress in the shop for you.
This is a dress that is not being done full justice on my dress form but it is gorgeous once on the body. The dress sits off the shoulders to leave a bare expanse of skin and the sleeves are cut to just past the elbow. A pretty chiffon ruffle runs around the neckline and then another ruffle wraps around each wrist. The bodice skims over the bust and comes in at the waist for shape. Under that the skirt flares out dramatically and is quite full. The front of the skirt is cut to the knee, or just above depending on your height, and then the edges of the skirt curve down and around to be full length at the back. The fullness and the length change give it a ton of movement when you move. The fabric is so unusual. It is made from a black silk net backed by a black silk tulle. Then onto the top net layer is a design made of black raffia. This gives the dress an incredible texture. The parts of the dress that are not lined have a touch of transparency which is very sexy. This is an incredible piece of Yve's history and an absolutely gorgeous dress. Excellent condition with a minor note below
Lined in a layer of tulle as described above and then there is a inner lining though the bodice and to just past the hips made out of a gold nude toned silk chiffon covered in a layer of black silk chiffon. It closes with a side set zipper. The raffia has small breaks in it here and there that is inherent to the material and normal wear.
Sleeves: 18"
Bust: 18" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 12-13" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 20" flat across from side seam to side seam before it flares out
Length: approx 35" from natural shoulder to front hem, 52" to lowest point of the back hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-SML
Item# DD3888
Reference Photos: (1-2) S/S 1987 Yves Saint Laurent Haute Couture Runway Show. / (3) Brynja Sverrisdottir in S/S 1987 Yves Saint Laurent Couture. Photo by David Bailey.
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
karl lagerfeld
Fabulous Fall 1995 Karl Lagerfeld Runway Black Net Dress w Velvet Detailing
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This spectacular dress is the twin of the dress that was worn on the runway for the Fall 1995 Karl Lagerfeld show. The dress is from Karl Lagerfeld's own label. He launched his self-named label in 1984 and by the 1990s it was firmly established. Pieces from his personal label were far edgier then the work he did for Chanel. It was a label where he explored a more avant garde feel with his designs and pushed the envelope more. This is a fantastic example of his work for that label and I love that you can see how it moves in the video we have.
This is a fantastic dress that is made out of a mix of a light weight black net that is backed in more layers of netting and silk chiffon. Then onto that is a pattern made from black velvet fused onto the netting. I love that the velvet is set to really highlight the cut and lines of the dress. It has a slightly more bare and fitted feel through the upper bodice and then flares and widens out very dramatically to the hem. The fabric is light in weight but the layering underneath the top layer of netting gives it enough weight and structure to hold the shape. The bust drops into a V and the velvet details on the bodice are set on angles to work into a centre vertical velvet line. This same striping runs horizontally all the way around the hem. The line that runs down the centre of the bodice extends all the way to the hem and then more vertical lines go all the way around the skirt to break up it up into panels. The waist comes in a touch, but has a more generous feel to it, and the skirt swings in a a wide A-line. At the back, the dress completely opens with a series of silk covered buttons that run from neck to just above the hem. I absolutely love this unexpected detail. I also love how he used those little bands of velvet to highlight where the buttons are set. The buttons become an integral design detail in themselves. It is a very collectible and rare dress from the earlier years of his self named label. Excellent condition.
The bodice is lined in another layer of the same netting and the skirt has three more layers of netting under the top layer and an inner nude silk chiffon layer under those. It closes at the back with the series of buttons that you see.
Bust: to 16" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: to 13.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 22" flat across from side seam to side seam
Bodice: approx 15" from top of the shoulder to waist
Total length: 55" from top of the shoulder to hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-SML
Item# DD4926
Reference Photos/Video: Fall 1995 Karl Lagerfeld.
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
valentino
Gorgeous Fall 2003 Valentino Densely Beaded Bias Cut Black Silk Chiffon Dress
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When searching for the date of this dress, we found a runway piece from Fall 2003 that has very similar bead work through the skirt and was shown with a different bodice at the front, but with the same crossed over strap open cut back. I love that you can get an idea of how well it moves by the runway video. It is truly a beautiful and extraordinary dress and a gorgeous example of the work the original Mr. Valentino was doing for his self named label.
I love the bareness at the top of the dress with its bare back and the front draping neckline. It is a dress that really comes alive once on the body. It is very light in weight despite its extensive bead work and sequins that cover the dress. It is all cut on the bias so once you slip it on it just skims over the body. The dress is made from a bias cut black silk chiffon combined with a silk netting. The netted portions are covered with thousands of tiny black sequins and beads in a variety of shapes. A little beaded strap curves up and over the shoulders to criss cross over your bare back. A panel of silk chiffon at the front creates a pretty drape. It skims over the waist and then curves over the hips. The skirt flows to the floor from there and widens out a bit as it nears the hem. It is cut a little longer at the back to give a slate sweeping feel behind you. Panels of silk chiffon run down the back for a little added detail. Excellent condition with a minor note below
Fully lined in a black silk chiffon and closes with a back hidden set zipper. Hand finishes. I see minor missing beads and wear to the back hem and there is a couple small areas where the netting has popped out of the seams a tiny bit. Please see the photos after the label shot. All minor. Tagged a vintage Valentino 6
Bust: no true side seams but will cover up to 16" flat across the front bodice
Waist: 12-12.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 18" flat across from side seam to side seam
Total length: 63" from top of shoulder to front hem, 68" to back hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-SML
Item# DD4632
Reference Photos/Video: (1-4) Fall 2003 Valentino, Look 70. / (5-6) Rupi Kaur in this dress for the South Asian Excellence at the Oscars Event, 2024.
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
christian dior
1970s Christian Dior by Marc Bohan Demi-Couture Elaborately Beaded Black Lace Net Dress
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This is a superb Christian Dior dress from the Marc Bohan years. It is a wonderful example of the work being done during this time period and shows how well the label could be when it delved into a more minimal cut combined with that full out glamour. The dress has classic feel of the best of Old Hollywood. Don't let the simplicity of the cut fool you. The closer you get to it the more you see the incredible and elaborate amount of detail that has been put into this fabric. This is a dream to wear and no matter how good you think it looks in these photos to see this one in person will make your jaw drop.
The dress is made from a black silk net that has an incredible lace floral pattern. The flowers in the pattern are edged in black silk cording that is worked throughout the lace. It is made from three layers. The top beaded layer, a black silk chiffon layer under that and then a nude silk chiffon inner layer that is itself backed in a black silk. Adding that nude layer gives the dress a bit of an illusion of wearing next to nothing underneath. The dress is suspended from two beaded straps that curve over each shoulder. The front neckline dips into a slight V and the back is a simple scoop. It is cut to skim over the body from bust to hips with no seaming to break the eye or the design created by the bead work. The shape of the dress is created by vertical seaming on the inner layers and then the top layer is shaped to follow. The skirt and widens out gradually as it nears the hem. The lace netting is covered with an elaborate design made of glossy black beads in various sized and black sequins. The design is heavier around the top the bodice, lightens in coverage as it goes over the hips and then becomes dense and heavy again at the hem. Glossy black sequins curve over the underlying floral pattern. The sequins are applied so that they are stacked and layered over each other to give a slight 3D feel. Small faceted beads follow other parts of the pattern and these are the same beads that are used to cover the straps. Tiny little seed beads are thrown into the mix and then there are square pailettes and oval faceted beads on a much larger scale to really create impact. The beads are all applied by hand and catch the light from every angle. It is an incredible thing to see and even better once on the body. The label on the dress is numbered and when you see that in a Dior Boutique label it most often meant that the piece was a special order or was a custom made order for a client in the atelier but fitted at the boutique store rather then in Paris. This is a dress that you just slip on and it is perfection. Excellent condition.
Fully lined as per the description above. It closes with a hidden set side zipper. Numbered tag. Perhaps the occasional bead missing but you would never tell because of the extent of the pattern. The slight bias cut will allow for a bit of movement in the measurements. The comfortable range is listed below
Bust: 16-18" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: to 14" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 18" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 60" from top of shoulder to hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED
Item# DD4909
This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.
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Loris Azzaro launched his label in 1967 and quickly defined his trademark looks by his avant garde way of defining the body. His work was shockingly sexy for the times. Some of the most beautiful women in the world wore his clothing including Marisa Berenson, Raquel Welch, Jane Birkin, Sophia Loren, Brigitte Bardot and Tina Turner. The label had a certain French flare that women world-wide loved. By the seventies and eighties he was experimenting with volume and proportions and new fabrics that at the time were all cutting edge. This is a stunning example of his work during the mid-seventies. I love this one.
This is a gorgeous dress and it is a dress that will really come to life once on an actual body. The body of the dress mixes a black jersey with a black sequin fabric that has densely applied sequins covering its surface. These make the dress shimmer beautifully as they catch the light. On one side the sequins start at the shoulder and run down the sleeve on that side. They continue in a jagged pattern down the front and all the way around the back. The entire lower skirt is also made from the sequins and I love this because when you walk, they catch the light fantastically. On the other side the front panel is a black jersey that is gathered and is set in the opposite points to intercept with the sequin side. The sleeve on that side is the same gathered jersey. When the dress is off the body, that sleeve is cut longer than the sequin sleeve and that is because once it is on, you are meant to push it up so you get even more gathers all the way down your arm. The front neck line is a wide set scoop across the front and then the back plunges into a deep V to leave a bare expanse of skin showing. It is incredibly sexy. This is an amazing example of his work and it is fantastic once on. Excellent condition
Fully lined through the body in a black silky rayon. It closes with a zipper down the back and each sleeve has a zipper at the wrist. Hand finishes.
Sequin sleeve: approx 24" and are 15" around the upper arm
Shoulders: approx 15.5"
Bust: 17-19.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 13-14" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 18" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 61" from top of shoulder to hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED
Item# DD4902
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
karl lagerfeld
Spectacular Spring 1993 Karl Lagerfeld Runway Black Dress w Extensive Beading
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The beading technique used on this dress is distinctive and it led us to finding that he did in entire series of dresses in several variations for the Spring 1993 collection. The twin of this dress was a part of the runway show and we have included it here. We also added some other shots from the collection for you to see since these dresses were an integral part of the collection that year. Examples of Karl's work during this time period are held in museums around the world and are rare finds. This is an important piece of his fashion history.
The cut of the dress is simple but it is very sexy with its long silhouette and see through lower skirts. The dress is made out of a black crepe that has a slight bias cut to it that allows it to drape well over the body once on. The strap detailing that crisscrosses over the body, edges the bust area, and is used for the straps that go up and around the neck, are all made from a wide cotton weave looking ribbon that is applied directly onto the dress. Black seed beads were applied onto that ribbon and they catch the light beautifully when you move. The bodice is extensively beaded, sequinned and embroidered. The colours there are bright and brilliant and I love how they give the dress a fantastic pop of colour. The work completely covers each triangle of the front bust and then wraps all the way around the back. The straps are intricate and hook behind the neck and become a design detail in themselves. I love the wrapped illusion created by the way the beading is applied over the dress and how the straps of the neckline continue that feel. The dress skims over the body, following your curves, and then flares out with that inset of silk chiffon for the very lower part of the skirt. It is magic once on an actual body. Excellent condition
Fully lined in a black silk. The lower chiffon part of the skirt is unlined. It closes with a hidden set back zipper and hooks to close at the back of the neck. Hand finishes and beautifully constructed.
Bust: to 18" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 14.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 20" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 58" from neck to hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: MED-LRG
Item# DD4901
Reference Photos/Video: (1-5) Spring 1993 Karl Lagerfeld Runway. / (6-7) Kristen McMenamy for Spring 1993 Karl Lagerfeld Ready to Wear Advance. / (8) Helena Christensen for Spring 1993 Karl Lagerfeld Ad Campaign.
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
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In 1952, Givenchy founded his namesake house on Rue Alfred de Vigny in Paris and quickly rose to fame as one of the grand couturiers. 16 years later for the 1968-69 season, he added a ready-to-wear line of clothing and accessories called 'Givenchy Nouvelle Boutique'. The line was initially sold in the United States exclusively through Bergdorf Goodman stores and was eventually available at other retailers as well. The line was high end and extremely well made. He launched this line to expand his customer base and it made to appeal specifically to his non-couture clients. This label continued until 1992. This dress has the Givenchy Boutique label without the Nouvelle added and as far as I am aware this label was usually reserved for special orders that were made in the atelier and then shipped to the client without any Paris fittings. All the ones that I have ever seen are machine stitch for the main long seams and then hand finished throughout otherwise. This dress is made exactly like that and it could not be more gorgeous.
This is the kind of dress that makes my heart flutter when I see. I love this particular silhouette from this time period and this one is a beauty. The dress is made out of a beautiful silk brocade that has pink and copper flowers woven throughout the fabric. The pink and slightly coral parts of the flowers are done in a more matte thread and then the copper and gold parts are done with a metallic thread. As a result the flowers almost seem to glow off of the silk. It is an incredible vintage fabric. The top of the dress is equally as stunning. It has a low squared off neckline at the front that is made from a black velvet. It curves up and over your shoulders and has the same squared off opening at the back. At the front it dips slightly at the centre and placed exactly in the middle of that dip is a large black bow of the same velvet that has stiffened netting inside to help hold its shape. The sleeves are gorgeous. Each shoulder is shaped into a high cap. To help support the bit of a rise above the shoulder there is a stiffen thicker grosgrain ribbon that is pleated and stitched into place along the edge of the inner shoulder to add support. The sleeves are cut so that they curve over your arm and narrow down slightly to a zippered wrist. The top is meant to be more fitted and create a more empire feel. The dress is shaped through the waist area with vertical darts to bring the fabric in and create the curve that you see. The skirt falls to the floor from there. It flares out quite dramatically by the time it reaches the hem and I love how the width of the lower skirt perfectly balances the shape through the upper bodice. It is spectacular and the cut and design are phenomenal. This is classic Givenchy for this time period. Excellent condition
The dress is backed in the same velvet where it goes over your shoulders and then the bodice and rest of the dress are lined in a black silk chiffon. It closes with a back zipper and there is a zipper at the end of each cuff. Hand finishes throughout and very well made.
Sleeves: 24" and are 16" around the upper arm
Shoulders: no true defined seam
Bust: 16.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Natural waist: 13.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 21" flat across from side seam to side seam
Bodice: approx 12" from top of shoulder to where the velvet ends under the bust
Total length: 57.5" from top of shoulder to front hem, 59" to the back hem with 2" turned under
Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-SML
Item# DD4893
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This is the actual dress that Sarah Snook wore to attend the Director Guild Awards in March 2022. This amazing sequin dress is by Bob Mackie from his boutique line and it is gorgeous. Mackie was best known for dressing Cher and for his signature glamour. He worked for both Edith Head and Jean Louis prior to entering costume design and he began by co-designing with Ray Aghayan. That led to his incredible journey in designing for stars like Cher and Diana Ross for many years before launching his own label. His work always has that touch of the best of Hollywood glamour.
This is such a gorgeous dress. Its simple cut combined with that heavy sequin coverage add up to an incredible piece. Plus it is fabulous to have the added modern provenance after having Sarah Snook wear it. The dress has an incredible pattern done in sequins that make the entire dress catch the light from every angle. The sequins are all a glossy black and they are set in vertical rows. In between vertical sections of four, and four and a half inches in width, he left long bands of the fabric without sequins and then also did that same thing cutting across the dress so that he could create a slight check pattern that runs over the dress. It is subtle but adds the perfect amount of detail. The sequins within each created rectangular 'box' have been applied to slightly overlap the next sequin in line so you get a liquid effect. The dress is strapless with a slight curve to the neckline. The front neckline is cut straight across and the bodice kept simple. It is cut to fit over the bust and the waist is cinched. Inside is a hidden cupped and boned corset to keep the dress in place. The dress skims over the hips and the fabric there has stretch so it is easy to fit. The skirt falls to the floor and widens out as it nears the hem with a little flare to the lower skirt. The back is cut longer then the front for a bit of a trained feeling behind you. It has a very classic Old Hollywood movie star feel to it. This is a dress that you just slip on and it is perfection. Excellent condition.
The bodice has a built in inner corset that is cupped and boned. The rest of the dress is unlined. It closes with a hidden set back zipper. There is a wide stay under the bust and at the inner waist that hooks to close with four hook options. Tagged a vintage Bob Mackie 6.
Bust: 17-17-5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 14-15" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 18-22" flat across from side seam to side seam
Bodice: 10" from top of bodice to inner waist
Total length: 53" from top of bodice to front hem, 56" to the back hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED
Item# DD4876
Reference Photos/Video: Sarah Snook in this Bob Mackie at the Director Guild Awards, March 2022.
This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.
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This is the actual runway sample from the Fall 1975 collection and you can see how fantastic it is on the body by the reference photo we found. Like the ivory coloured one already in the shop, the bead work on this dress was done by hand by Madame Gandini, who did beading for many of the Couture houses of the day. John's business is all done on a made-to-order basis. That means the majority of pieces you will find are a one-off, or if there are similar pieces, very few of each piece exist. This personal attention to each dress is clearly seen in the workmanship of his pieces. His work is very expensive and beaded pieces like this sold for over $10,000 even in the 1970s. If you convert that to modern dollars you get to about $68,000. Having this actual runway samples that John pulled from his own archives to share with you is just amazing.
This is an amazing dress that has been densely beaded by hand. The base of the dress is a black silk chiffon and then onto that are thousands of glossy black glass tube beads laid out in vertical rows to fully cover every inch of the dress. The dress has weight to it with all those beads and it is almost 10 pounds off the body. Yet once on, the weight is distributed over you perfectly. The impact of all those beads from head to toe is stunning in the light. The cut is kept simple so that the bead work can take centre stage. The bodice has a high collar and the beads are set there in a slightly different pattern for a bit of added detailing. The dress falls from the shoulders to skim over you all the way to the floor. There is just a suggestion of the waist and then it skims back out over the hips. The sleeves are long and they also have that same slightly different bead work to detail each cuff. The skirt widens out just a touch as it nears the hem and there is an extremely high slit up the back. You don't get as much sense of it in these photos but once on the body this really adds a high flash of bare leg as you walk away. It is insanely sexy. As good as this dress looks in these shots once it is on an actual body is eve better. It is completely made by hand and it is stunning. Excellent condition.
Fully lined in a black silk chiffon and it closes at the back with a metal and nylon zipper. Hand finished throughout. There is perhaps the occasional bead missing here and there but no bare areas. Numbered sample tag on the inner hem.
Sleeves: 22" and 10" around the upper arm
Shoulders: 14"
Bust: 16.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 15" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 18.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 59" from neck to hem
Slit: 30.5" from hem up
Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-SML
Item# DD4404
Reference Photos: Fall 1975 John Anthony Runway.
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
givenchy
Incredible Spring 1998 Givenchy by Alexander McQueen "Rhinestone Cowgirls" Runway Dress
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This is a very rare runway documented Givenchy Couture dress from the Spring 1998 ready-to-wear collection "Rhinestone Cowgirls". It is the twin of the one that walked the runway. This is from the small period of time that Alexander McQueen was the Creative Director for the house. At just 27 years old he succeeded John Galliano as head designer in 1996. In 2001 his contract ended and he departed, telling the press that his creativity was constrained. His appointment had been tumultuous from the start. Hubert de Givenchy had describe his appointment as a "total disaster” and McQueen had shot back that the founder was “irrelevant”. Of course now in hindsight we see his collections for the genius that they were. It also showed his ability to design Couture. He said in later interviews that he walked away from the label with a greater knowledge about the process and techniques of couture, which benefited his own label afterwards.
In the 'Givenchy Catwalk' book they note that the collection was heavily influenced by Westerns and said that "the hairstyles were inspired by the 1970s, especially Farrah Fawcett's iconic look with thick hair and flicked out ends. Dresses and suits made out of dip, lambskin, covered with flames and star motif created with insets of fabric appliqué." This is one of the most recognizable dresses from the collection and its photo also appears in that same book.
This dress is remarkable. It is strapless and the body of the dress is beautifully seamed. The upper edge of the bodice is finished with a dusty pink suede and the inner bodice is boned and shaped to hug the person wearing it. It is held in place by that inner corset and then it skims over the waist and down to the hips. I love how the skirt is set into the hip with a series of curved scalloped designs. This allowed him to do long vertical panels to make up the skirt. There are eight of them in total and each one spans out to be a full 25" across by the hem. That makes the bottom of the skirt incredibly full and if you lay it out flat, it is more than a full circle skirt. To emphasize the fullness of the skirt he had the model hold the skirt up and flick it around her as she moved. You can see in the photos here that when you are standing still you do have some idea of the fullness that the skirt has but this is really a piece that it is when you have it on and you see it moving that the amazing amount of fabric in the skirt gives it an entirely new dimension. The bottom of the skirt has been inset with the same dusty pink suede in the flame motif that ran so prominently throughout the show. I laid the dress out with the skirt extended so that you can get an idea of just how much fabric is in there. This is an amazing piece of both Givenchy and Alexander McQueen's history. Excellent condition with a note below.
The bodice and body to just past the hip is lined in a black silk. The skirt is backed in black. The dress closes with a hidden set side zipper and the inner bodice is boned throughout with a built-in corset to the waist. A waist stay hooks to close. The suede shows some very slight minor fading and light grubbiness here and there. There is a small area on the bodice where the black has slightly lightened to have a reddish tint and there are a couple areas on one part of the skirt that has done the same. Please see the photos after the label shot. Tagged a vintage Givenchy 40
Bust: 16-17" flat across from side seam to side seam
Inner waist: 13.25" flat across from side seam to side seam. Note that the outer waist is up to 15" so you could adjust the corset if you needed more room.
Hips: to 25" flat across from side seam to side seam
Bodice: 9.5" from top of bodice to inner waist of corset
Total length: 56" from top of suede edge of the bodice to hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED
Item# DD4872
Reference Photos/Video: (1-5) Spring 1998 Givenchy Runway. / (6) From the book "Givenchy Catwalk: The Complete Collections" by Anders Christian Madsen.
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
givenchy
Spring 1979 Givenchy Haute Couture Runway Black Silk Chiffon Strapless Dress w Gold Sequin Bow Dress
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The book 'Givenchy Catwalk' says of this collection that "the new collection was heavily influenced by the fashions of the 1940s and was the height of sophistication." Several pieces walked the runway that season that had these Trompe L'oeil ribbons adorning their silk surfaces. The book notes that "the exclusive bow and ribbon prints on some day wear outfits reference the motif that had made Elsa Schiaparelli's name in 1927, but it was after dark that these features truly came into their own. In the evening were large ribbons tied into bows or loosely draped, decorating the bust like a tie or nipped in the skirts of extravagant colourful designs." This dress, or a very near version of it, was shown on the runway under a white jacket nipped in at the waist. We have also included a photo from the book that shows some of the other designs from that season that featured these sequin bows as well. It is a beautiful piece.
The dress is made from two layers of black silk organza topping an inner black silk lining. The bodice has been kept very simple in design so the embellishment on the skirt takes centre stage. It has boning through the bodice and the front is shaped by darting for it to fit around the bust. A little panel of the organza folds over the top edge of the neckline. On one side of the bodice the silk extends out into a panel that sits over the zipper and hooks into place on the opposite side at the back. This cleverly hides the zipper and keeps the bodice looking like it was sewn into place over you. The waist is nipped in and the skirt is softly gathered into that seam. There is some slight wear at the centre and side around the waist seam and I think that the owner of this dress probably wore this with a belt. You could easily add one of your own and it would completely cover the tiny flaws it has. The skirt falls to the floor under that and gently widens out a touch as it nears the floor. It has a bit of a light, floating feeling to it because of how he layered the organza over the interior silk. On the skirt is where we see that amazing gold sequin bow. It is made out of hand placed long gold metal strand beads, mixed with muted gold and silver sequins, with little beads in between all of that. It 'wraps' around you just above the knee and the 'bow' finishes with a flourish at the front. A slit starts just under the bottom of the 'ribbon' on one side so that when you walk you get a flash of bare leg. It is completely made by hand to Couture standards and is absolutely a beautiful thing to see in person. Excellent overall condition with a minor note below
Fully lined in a black silk. Light boning through the bodice and a wide inner waist stay hooks to close. The bodice closes with a side zipper that extends loosely down inside past the inner waist. A silk panel hooks into place over that at the back and the skirt has its own zipper at the side. Here and there at the edges of the organza there is a slight faded feel to it. There is a little bit of wear at the front waist above the seam and near the zipper at the waist seam. Please see the two photos after the label shot
Bust: 16.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Inner waist stay: 12.5-13" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 19" flat across from side seam to side seam
Bodice: 10" from top of bodice to true inner waist
Total length: 54" from top of bodice to hem with 2.5" turned under, 25" slit from the hem up
Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-SML
Item# DD4870
Reference Photos: (1) Spring 1979 Givenchy Haute Couture. / (2) Spring 1979 Givenchy Haute Couture Looks from the book "Givenchy Catwalk: The Complete Collections" by Anders Christian Madsen.
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
loris azzaro
1973 Loris Azzaro Couture Black Sequin & Silk Chiffon Insets Dress w Pointed Hem
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Loris Azzaro launched his label in 1967 and quickly defined his trademark looks by his avant garde way of defining the body. His work was shockingly sexy for the times. Some of the most beautiful women in the world wore his clothing including Marisa Berenson, Raquel Welch, Jane Birkin, Sophia Loren, Brigitte Bardot and Tina Turner. The label had a certain French flare that women world-wide loved. By the seventies and eighties he was experimenting with volume and proportions and new fabrics that at the time were all cutting edge. This is a stunning example of his work during the mid-seventies. When researching we found several examples of dresses from 1973 that combined the same jagged flame cuts with sequins. I have included some of those so you can get an idea of how great this looks on the body.
This is a gorgeous dress and it is a dress that will really come to life once on an actual body. The body of the dress is covered with densely applied black sequins. They make the dress shimmer beautifully as they catch the light. The sequins start at the shoulder run down the sleeves, over the bodice, waist and hips and then stop about mid-thigh depending on your height. The skirt is set into the sequins in pointed angled that reflects the points of the hem. The skirt part is made from 12 individual panels that are set side by side all the way around. Each panel is a single layer of black silk chiffon that is incredibly light in weight. When you move they move around you. Each panel has only been attached at the top so you also get glimpses of your legs between each panel as you move. It is incredibly sexy. The same silk chiffon is set into the upper bodice and then the back has a huge cut out that is filled with the silk chiffon that dips into a low scoop. It buttons down the back can you see a hint of skin between each button. I love the pointed finished all around the scoop at the back. It is fantastic once on. Excellent condition
Fully lined through the body in a black silk. It closes with buttons down the back and each sleeve has a zipper at the wrist. One of his signature strapless bras is attached inside the bodice which could be easily removed if you wish.
Sleeves: 23" and are 12" around the upper arm
Shoulders: no defined seam
Bust: 16-18" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 15" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 19.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 59" from top of shoulder to the longest point of hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED
Item# DD4347
Reference Photos: (1-3) Marisa Berenson in a Loris Azzaro. October 1973. Photo: Michael Holtz. / (4) The cover of the book "Azzaro" for Assouline - Marisa Berenson and Loris Azzaro photographed in 1973, for issue 604 of L'Officiel de la Couture et de la Mode de Paris, by Roland Bianchini. / (5) Image from the book "Azzaro: Fifty Sparkling Years" / (6) Magazine spread featuring a model in Azzaro, 1973.
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
louis feraud
Killer 1980s Louis Feraud Black Sequin Dress w Amazing Tiered Silk Chiffon Sleeves
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Louis Feraud opened his first boutique in 1950 in Cannes selling sundresses to the jet set. When Brigitte Bardot was photographed in a white pique and lace number, he became the darling of the fashion world. By 1956 he had moved to Paris and opened a couture atelier and in 1960s made his first official couture presentation. Ready-to-Wear followed in 1970. He won the Golden Thimble in in 1978 and again in 1984. Women like Elizabeth Taylor and Brigitte Bardot were huge fans of the label. This is a wonderful sequin and silk chiffon dress that showcases his depth as a designer. It is just exceptional.
The dress has the bit of a high glamour vibe to it that is fabulous. The sequins make it feel so special and I love the use of the silk chiffon for the upper shoulders and sleeves. The chiffon is set wide across the neckline so you get just a hint of the tops of your inner shoulders showing. It runs down to the bodice on the front and back where the sequins start and it also extends out into those phenomenal sleeves. The body of the dress is made out of a dense application of black sequins, set on top of a chiffon, which gives it a touch of structure but still keeps the dress feather light. It is cut fairly straight over the body so that it just floats beautifully over you once on. A slit on one side that runs up from the hem allows for a bit of leg to show. Outside of the glamour of the sequins it is the sleeves that are the star of this dress. Each sleeve has three tiers of pleated silk chiffon added to it. These start just under the base of the arm and are stacked over each other to the wrist. It gives it a stacked pagoda sleeve feel that is just insanely good. The contrast between all of that detail on the sleeve, the sequins and ease through the body of the dress is the perfect mix. Excellent condition
The body is lined in a satin finish rayon and the upper bodice and sleeves are unlined. It closes with a back zipper that starts at the sequins and there is a button to close behind the neck. Tagged a Feraud 40
Sleeves: 24" and are 14" around the upper arm
Shoulders: 15"
Bust: 18" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 15.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 19.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Total length: 57" from neck to hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED
Item# DD4854
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The twin of this dress was shown for Look 40 for the Resort 2017 presentation. The entire collection was an explosion of flowers and handwork went into many of the garments. Astounding considering that it is RTW. Vogue explained that "Clothes like these are a very far cry from humdrum commercial fare to fill the gaps in stores between seasons. With Burton’s softening touch, they transcend the source material to become very special, non-disposable items a woman might want to keep forever." It is a terrifically beautiful dress and it is even more interesting for the fact that she made two versions of the dress for the collection, one on black net and the other on ivory. We found reference photos of Lily Collins, Emily Blunt and Bee Schaffer all wearing one that year and all looking phenomenal in it.
This is an exquisite dress this is covered with an intricate design made out of tiny beads and sequins in a beautiful array of colours. The base is made of black silk netting and then the dress is lined in a black silk chiffon through the body. This gives it enough weight to hold the shape of the dress and to support the weight of the added embellishments but it still feels magically light once on. You rarely see this level of handwork on a modern piece unless you step into the world of couture and it is a joy to see this dress in person. The design that covers the dress has been meticulously done by using a combination of sequins and beads. Many of the sequins are set slightly on their sides and this gives the design a slightly raised 3D effect off of the netting. The designs forms flowers and birds within that gorgeous pattern and it is the kind of piece that the more you look at it the more you see. I took several detail shots so you can get an idea of the workmanship. Cut wise it is an easy dress to wear. The sleeves are long and they are left unlined so that the pattern really shows against your skin underneath the netting. The shoulders are slightly capped and the neck is scooped. It skims over the bust, past the waist and over the hips. There is no seam at the waist. Instead it is cut to slightly come in and the pattern also draws your eye inwards. The skirt falls to the floor from there and it is in its original uncut supermodel length. I love how the width of the skirt flares out and it is quite alive by the time it reaches the floor. The pattern also changes to pick up the grid work on the bust and tie the whole dress together. The extra fabric around the hem also gives you this beautiful movement when you move. Truly an extraordinary piece from the Sarah Burton era. Excellent condition.
Lined in a black silk chiffon as described above. It closes with a hidden set back zipper and each cuff closes with a hidden set zipper. The ease of the cut and slight bias of the netting should allow it to fit a range of sizes. Tagged a modern McQueen 42.
Sleeves: 24.5" and are 12" around the upper arm
Shoulders: 15"
Bust: 17-18" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 13.5-15" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 17-19.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Total length: 67" from neck to hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-MED
Item# DD4849
Reference Photos: (1-2) Resort 2017 Alexander McQueen, Look 40. / (3-5) Lily Collins in Alexander McQueen at the 19th Costume Designers Guild Awards, 2017. / (6) Katherine "Bee" Schaffer, in McQueen, and Anna Wintour at the 2018 Evening Standard Theatre Awards. / (7) Emily Blunt in Alexander McQueen for The Girl On The Train world premiere, October 2016.
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
james galanos
Prettiest 1960s James Galanos Couture Black French Lace & Silk Cord Dress
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In 1951 a 27 year old James Galanos launched his first label called Galanos Originals. By 1954 he had won a Coty award and the Neiman Marcus award. By 1958 he was producing clothing that could range in price from $200 to $3000, an astronomical price for ready-to-wear for that time period. His ready-to-wear line was made close to couture standards and with a level of craftsmanship that was on par with the French couturiers. Galanos was a master cutter and draper and he used many couture techniques in his work. Grace Kelly was an early fan. He was truly one of the great American designers and his work is held in all of the major museums around the world. He is one of my personal favourites. This dress is absolutely gorgeous.
This is a dress that is extremely well made with a very high level of construction techniques. That alone makes it a fabulous piece for me. The dress is made from two types of lace that give the dress its beautiful tactile feel. Everything about the cut is done to highlight and showcase those wonderful sculptural lines that the dress has. The dress falls from lace straps that curve up and over each shoulder. It dips down at the front and the back is scooped to leave a bare expanse of skin. It skims over the bust to the slight empire cut waist. The waist is generous and the lines of the dress are stunning. The bodice is covered with a beautiful black lace with a second layer of lace on top of the nude silk lining underneath so you get a little bit of extra depth to the pattern that you see. The skirt is made out of a heavy corded silk lace. The cording is also a clever way to help to shape the skirt so beautifully. The skirt curves out and over the hips and then widens out to the hem. The top lace layer sits over a deep green silk inner skirt. Having the deep moss green underneath highlights the cord and lace more than adding just a black under skirt would have. It is genius. The silk underneath also helps to hold the fuller shape the skirt has. The shape was all created by clever seaming and cut and it is so much better in person it is ridiculous. He is a designer who cut for the body, not the hanger or a dress form. His work only truly comes to life once on. The workmanship on this dress is exquisite and to demi-couture standards. Excellent condition.
Lined in a nude silk through the bodice and the inner piece of the skirt is backed in a black silk organza. It closes with a back zipper. Hand finishes throughout.
Bust: 16-17" flat across from side seam to side seam
Seam under the bust: 15.5" across
Hips: open
Bodice: 12.5" from top of shoulder to seam under the bust
Total length: 52" from top of shoulder to hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED
Item# DD4843
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
chanel
Stupendous c. Fall 1991 Chanel by Karl Lagerfeld Strapless Mini Dress w Full Net Skirt
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Well sourcing the collection for this dress we found an example in 1988 that felt close but I think it is most likely from the Fall of 1991. He showed several of these dresses with jackets over them at the end of that show and this feels more similar to those. You can also see the similarity in the one that we had that was worn by that Olivia Culpo. This feels like it's younger sassier sister. We have included reference photos from both collections here and either way, it is an absolutely fabulous little black dress. It is incredible and very sexy.
The dress is strapless with a pretty bodice that curves up at the front and down slightly at the back. It is boned and shaped to curve around the bust at the front and then hug the body to the waist. The exterior is made of a black silk and it has a little lace ribbon all around the upper edge for a little romantic touch. The skirt is made from two layers of a fine black netting that has a very smooth to the touch feel. The layers give you touch of transparency and you can see this in the 1991 show that this was deliberate. He meant it to be worn over an undergarment and tights that gives you some coverage and just have the transparency that shows your entire leg. If that does not work for you, you could easily add something underneath to lessen the transparency that the skirt has. It zips to close at the back and I love how you can see that the zipper has been hand set. The inner lining is also handset and it is just a beautiful example of how well these little dresses are made from Chanel. Especially in these early years of the Karl era. Excellent condition.
Lined in a handset silk through the bodice and closes with a back, hand set zipper. There is a stay in place around the waist that hooks to close. Tagged a vintage Chanel 38.
Bust: 15.5-16" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 12.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: open
Bodice: 10" from top of bodice at the front to waist
Total length: 32.5" from top of bodice to hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-SML
Item# DD4837
Reference Photos/Video: (1) Spring 1988 Chanel. / (2-3) Fall 1991 Chanel, Look 98. Model Emma Sjoberg. / (4) Olivia Culpo in Fall 1991 Chanel from Shrimpton Couture.
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
christian dior
Prettiest 2010s Christian Dior Strapless Dress w Embroidered Flowers & Ribbon
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This is just the prettiest Dior. I believe it is a production piece made for the shops perhaps from the 2010s. At some point we will find more and verify the date and update the info here, or send along to the new owner. The dress is made from a black silk net that has an intricate pattern laid over it that combines black silk ribbon, black cording and embroidery work. The bodice is strapless and has inner boning so that it hugs the body and stays in place. Ribbon and cording wrap horizontally around the top of the bodice and then under that are panels of lattice mixed with cross thatched netting and swirling bands of cording applied to it. All of the ribbon has been applied by hand and you can see all of the tiny stitches that have been done. The waist nips in and there is another silk and cord band to add definition. The skirt flares out from under that. The skirt is a little masterpiece in itself. It is very full and short and the netting gives it a touch of transparency over the inner silk chiffon lining. Long vertical bands of silk are combined the same lattice pattern from the bodice and then there is additional embroidery work over top of that. Embroidered flowers are places all around the bottom of the skirt for the perfect extra touch. We shot it without any extra underskirts but there is enough fabric that you could probably add a light crinoline if you really wanted more fullness. There is already an extra layer of tulle over the silk chiffon inner skirt that helps hold the volume that you see. These multiple layers give the dress structure so that it holds the shape around you once on. It is beautiful and feels like it is a little piece of art. It appears to have been worn very little if at all. Excellent condition
Fully lined in a combination of black silk and silk net. It closes with a hidden back side zipper. Lightly boned through the bodice with two inner stays under the bust and another at the waist that all hook to close. Handwork. It appears to have been worn very little if at all. Tagged a modern Dior FR36, GB8, IT40, US4.
Bust: 15-16" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 12.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: open
Bodice: 8.5" from top of bodice to waist
Total length: 28" from top of bodice to hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-SML
Item# DD4835
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
christian dior
Spectacular Cruise 2008 Christian Dior by John Galliano Embellished One Shoulder Black Silk Chiffon Dress
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This was a dress produced for the shops but you can see that it was based on a combination of Looks 10 and Look 52. Done in a more versatile black, it has the one shoulder cut of Look 10 combined with the bead work and embellishments that you see on look 52. Vogue said that the collection was done "in an electric-bright palette.. and channelled Barbara Hutton's sixties—a glittery, lame, paisley, and leopard-print world of muumuus, bikinis, capri pants, trapeze dresses, cat-eye sunglasses, and scarf-wrapped hats. It bordered on camp... and Kitschy or not, there was no denying the workmanship that went into crafting the large collection." I love that the photo of the blue dress still shows you how fantastic this is on the body and I love that the added details make it feel that much more special.
The dress is made out of a black silk chiffon that has a slight bit of texture to it. It is all cut on the bias but with seaming at the waist so that it has more structure then some of his longer bias cut pieces. The dress falls from one shoulder and then drapes down and over the bodice to the waist before the skirt swings out from under there. It is very beautiful. It is cut to skim and drape over you so that is shows every curve but is not overly fitted. The dress is suspended from that one wide shoulder panel that curves over your shoulder and drapes across the bust to the other side. On both the front and back he has added a fabulous spray of intricate floral appliques that are detailed with black jet beads and sequins. These catch the light beautifully as you move. The waist nips in and the dress comes with its original belt, in its original pouch, that allows you to cinch the waist in as much as you like. I love the big jewel buckle on the belt that adds that much more glitz. The skirt flares out under that to the hem. There is a good amount of silk chiffon through the skirt which gives you so much movement when you walk. It's stunning. His signature row of tightly spaced buttons run up one side. It is an incredible example of his work and looks to have been worn very little if at all. Excellent condition with a small note below
Fully lined in a black silk and closes at the side with a series of silk covered buttons. I see one tiny hole near the hem. Please see the photo after the label shot. Tagged a FR42, GB14, IT46, US10.
Inner bust: 18.25" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 14.75" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: open
Bodice: 18" from the top of the shoulder to the waist and meant to blouse over the waist a bit
Total length: 42" from top of shoulder to hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: MED-LRG
Item# DD4800
Reference Photos: Cruise 2008 Christian Dior. (1) Look 10. Model Chanel Iman. / (2) Look 52. Model Mariya Markina.
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
christian dior
Numbered Resort 1985 Christian Dior by Marc Bohan Silk Chiffon One Shoulder
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This is a very chic Christian Dior dress from the Marc Bohan years. The label is numbered and when you see that in a Dior Boutique label it most often meant that the piece was a special order or was a custom made order for a client in the atelier but fitted at the boutique store rather then in Paris. It is a wonderful example of the work being done during this time period and shows the restraint that the label could have when it delved into minimalism. It is a very easy and comfortable dress to wear. Don't let the simplicity of it fool you. This is a dream to wear and the simple lines are offset by the high quality of the silk and the ease and beauty it has once on.
The dress is made from a black silk that drapes beautifully over the body. The neckline falls from a single shoulder that draped up and over to the back. There is an inner dress and then a layer of silk chiffon is draped over that dress to blouse over you to the waist. I love the way it softly angles from the shoulder down to the other side on both the front and the back. The waist has an elastic so the dress is extremely easy to wear and comfortable. The bodice blouses over the waist line. You can wear it as is or you can to add a belt underneath and cinch in the waist to create a more hourglass shape. The inner bodice is made from two layers of the same silk chiffon and it is cut to skim over your bust to the waist. The skirt falls from the waist to the floor gently widening out as it clears the hem. The elastic creates a series of small soft gathers all the way around the waist and this the skirt open up beautifully as it does. The skirt is made of three layers of the silk chiffon, each stacked perfectly over each other. A slit runs out the same side as the shoulder for a little bare flash of leg. This is a dress that you just slip on and it is perfect every single time. You can see the hand work throughout and it is beautifully made. Excellent condition.
The layers of silk chiffon act as its lining. The dress weighs ounces. It closes with a side set zipper on the two innermost layers to the waist and then snaps on the top lay over that. Elastic through the waist. It looks to have been worn very little if at all.
Bust: to 17" flat across from side seam to side seam
Elastic waist: 13-16" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 18.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Bodice: 16" from top of shoulder to waist
Total length: 60" from top of shoulder to hem
Slit: 23" from hem up
Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-MED
Item# DD4789
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
Louis Mies
Dramatic 1970s Louis MiesOff Shoulder Haute Couture Silk Dress w Hand Made Lace & Full Skirt
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This dress comes to me from a client whose aunt was buying pieces from Louis Mies along with the French couture houses. Mies was a small independent couturier who did custom work for his clients to haute couture standards. He designed many pieces for the Queen of Belgium. He was one of the independent ateliers that bought the fabric directly from the couture houses for his own work and he also sold couture pieces through his salon, something certain retailers could do during this time period as long as they were authorized. We do not have any family records as to what designer this might be but the dress bears a striking similarity to some of the 1977 Valentino couture collection pieces.
The level that this dress is made to is incredible. The fabric is a black silk taffeta and the edging is all beautiful French Chantilly lace. There are many yards of fabric used in the construction of this dress but once on the body it is all perfectly balanced. It sits off the shoulder to leave a bare expanse of skin showing. A 6" ruffle of silk wraps all the way around your shoulders and it is edged with 3.5" of lace. Hidden under that are these incredible extra wide sleeves that are also edged in lace. The bodice skims over you and the waist nips in for shape. I have added a grosgrain ribbon to add more shape and you could also wear a more structured belt. The skirt falls to the floor from there and widens out to the fullness that you see. The skirt has three layers. There is a full built-in black silk under-skirt that has wide bands of stiffened netting at the hem and then again part way up the skirt. The next layer is a black silk with two ruffled tiers at the hem edged with black lace. The final top layer sits over those and curves up at the front to meet the seam at the waist. You can tell the level of construction on the dress by some of the small details in it like the fact that there are these little ruffles that run along the seams of the inner layer even no one would ever see them. I love that. The dress is completely made by hand and I have included a couple of shots of the inner seams for you to see the amazing handwork. Excellent condition with a note below
Fully lined through the bodice in a black silk and the skirt is constructed as described above. It closes with a painted metal zipper at the back. Made by hand to couture standards. There are a couple small repairs / tiny holes on the ruffle on the neckline. There is so much fabric they get lost in the folds. Please see the final shot after the label. It otherwise looks unworn
Bust: to 19.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 14" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: open
Bodice: 15" from top of natural shoulder to waist
Skirt: 43" from waist to hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED
Item# DD3882
Reference photos: Valentino campaign 1977 shot by Deborah Turbeville
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
oscar de la renta
Documented Resort 1978 Oscar de la Renta Backless Black Silk & Lace Dress w Full BalloonmSleeves
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Oscar was known for his beautiful and feminine designs and this dress really showcases that. With our modern day obsession with all things eighties and nineties this play on proportions and fabrics still feels extremely of this moment fashion wise. Oscar had an amazing sense of aesthetics and his genius was in making women look and feel beautiful. I love that we found an amazing backstage shot of it from the runway show that let us date it. It is very hard to date his earlier work and its also nice to be able to see it on. It is just an absolutely gorgeous example of his work from this time period.
Three different fabrics were combined to make of this dress and each one becomes a an element of the design. The sleeves are a light weight silk taffeta and that is how they hold their fullness without being heavy. The bodice is done in a black lace for a pretty touch. The skirt is a black silk that has a very fine thin ribbing that runs through it for added texture. The neckline is scooped low and it is set wide across at the front so that it sits on the outer edge of your shoulders. At the back it is scooped so you get an expanse of bare skin. The sleeves are spectacular. They have built in panels of tulle to help hold their shape. They are cut to be every full so that they billow out to just above the elbow. They have elastic running through the edges nearest to the shoulders and this allows you to be able to wear them up and on the shoulder like I have shot them here or you could let them fall off the shoulder to get an even more bare feel. It skims over the bodice to the waist and I love the little lace peplum that sits just under the waist seam. The skirt falls from under that on a beautiful curve to the floor. There is a built-in underskirt made out of a black silk organza that has a wide ruffled bottom. This helps to hold the shape of the outer skirt. The fulness of the skirt moves beautifully when you move. Excellent condition
The bodice is lined in a black chiffon, The skirt in a black organza and the sleeves have tulle inside them to hold the shape. Built in underskirt. It closes with a back zipper. Tagged a vintage ODLR 6
Bust: to 18" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 13" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: open
Bodice: approx 17" from natural shoulder to slightly dropped seam under natural waist
Skirt: 44" from slightly dropped seam under natural waist to hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED
Item# DD4444
Reference Photo: Resort 1978 Oscar de la Renta.
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
valentino
Incredible Fall 2015 Valentino by Pierpaolo & Piccioli & Maria Grazia Chiuri Open Side Pleated Skirt Dress
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This is a dress that was made for the shops. While you saw elements of it in some of the pieces that walk the runway for both the Fall 2015 RTW how and the Couture show there was no exact twin to it on the runway. In 2015 Valentino was headed by both Maria Grazia Chiuri and PierPaolo Piccioli. They had stepped into Mr Valentino's shoes and were breathing new life into the brand. Most of the looks towards the middle of the fall show had this same very minimalist feel and were done primarily in black with pops of white. I love how this dress showcases their more simplistic and minimal side. It is an amazing dress.
The fabric is a silk that is heavy and has an almost fine wool suiting feel to it. The weight of the fabric is what holds the dress in place over you. The front is cut straight across the neckline and then it is brought starkly down the sides and set to sit just over the seam at the waist. This is repeated at the back with an addition of a long open keyhole that displays a slice of bare skin from neck to waist. This creates a rectangular cut out on either side from your shoulder to the waist. If you dare you can wear it bare or you can lay this over top of something. What you put underneath is dependent on how much coverage you want from something with just a tiny strap at to wearing a full on sleeved shirt underneath will work. The waist nips in and and then the skirt falls to the floor or ankle depending on your height. The skirt is what gives the piece its weight. There is an amazing amount of fabric used for the skirt. This is because it is flat pleated all the way around your waist and then each of those pleats open up at about 3 1/2 inches under the waist line to the hem. Inside each the open pleat are four more top stitched knife pleats that gradually open as they reach the hem. The detail that this creates all the way around the skirt when you move is amazing. When you stand still everything falls like a normal pleated skirt but when you move and they start to open and you see all those top stitched inner pleats the entire thing just comes to life. It is these touches and extra details that always make Valentino pieces that much more special. It beautifully executed and even better in person. Excellent condition
Fully lined in a black silk through the bodice and the skirt is unlined. It closes with a button and loop at the back of the neck and a hidden set zipper that starts at the waist. Tagged a modern Valentino 40. It appears to have been worn very little if at all. There is no give at the waist so make sure it is the proper measurement for where it sits because it sits touch low.
Bust: the sides are open & the bust covers 11.25" flat across
Slightly low set waist: 12.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: open
Bodice: 17" from top of shoulder to waist
Total length: 56" from top of shoulder to hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-SML
Item# DD4769
Reference Photos: (1) Fall 2014 Valentino Couture, Look 8. Model Malaika Firth. / (2) Fall 2015 Valentino, Look 40. Model Irina Djuranovic.
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
Intricate 1920s Unlabeled Gold Metallic Lame Thread & Sequin on Black Silk Net Flapper Dress
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This wonderful little 1920s flapper dress was completely made by hand and a wonderful example of the level of craftsmanship being utilized during this time period. It has its original Made in France label still present and these pieces were always a little higher quality then some examples you see from the time period. It has no other label but it is not hard to imagine that it might have been a designer piece as well. The base of the dress is a black silk netting that is strong and sturdy. Onto this is an intricate design made up of gelatin sequins set boxes. Each is a combination of purple, pink & turquoise in an alternating design. The placement of each sequin is by hand and it is amazing to think of the time it would have taken to make the fabric alone. The center of each block makes me think of a cluster of little pink "hearts" that are then surrounded by an abstract shape. A metal based gold lame thread and tiny little gold tubes beads are then shaped around each to make the block design that you see. These are then stacked in rows to cover the dress entirely with the black netting serving as the separation between each. This combination of colored sequins, gold thread & beads is absolutely fantastic. There is an extra panel of netting inserted at each hip to give the skirt extra flare. Excellent antique condition
The dress is unlined and slips over the head to wear. The edges of the side net panels are raw and at one time there may have an extension to them but it is now cut even with the hem. I see no other flaws and it appears to have been worn very little if at all and is wearble with the care it would deserve to be worn with. Even with that small defect the dress is remarkably sound and shockingly beautiful. It is almost 100 years old and is considered to be in museum quality condition.
Bust: 17" from side seam to side seam
Waist: 16" from side seam to side seam
Hips: 17" from side seam to side seam
Total length: 40" from shoulder to bottom hem
Modern Sizing equivalent: XS-SML
Item# E290
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
gucci
Fall 2001 Gucci by Tom Ford Runway Look 26 Sheared Mink & Softeest Black Angora Sweater
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The twin of this gorgeous little Gucci sweater walked the runway for a Look 26 for the Fall 2001 collection. We have included runway photos here for you to see how sexy this is once on the body along with an editorial shot that we found. During this time period Tom Ford was the Creative Director and was breathing new life into the label. He was known for his slick and simple yet still sexy silhouettes that highlighted every curve of a woman's body. He took over the label in 1994 and his presence was a game changer. His modern take revived the label and brought in a younger audience. In 2001 he was on the top of his game and everyone who was anyone was wearing Gucci. This is a great example of what he was doing at the label at this moment in time.
This is a beautifully cut sweater and really showcases what Ford was all about while at this label. It is made to sit soft and slightly oversized on the body. The collar and the inside of the cuffs are lined with a soft sheared mink and then the rest of the sweater is made of a black angora. The collar is cut wide across and sits down at one side so that it sits off shoulder and expose bare skin on that side. The sleeves are cut to follow that offset line and this makes it appear that the one on the dropped side is longer and sits lower than the one on the other side. This is on purpose and you can see how this sits in the runway shots here. The body of the sweater is loose and easy and the angora is extremely soft and of an extremely high quality. The cuffs are a full six inches long and they are split up their inside seams. This creates that bit of volume and flare that you see. The mink lines the inside part of the cuffs so you have that incredible softness against your hand. When you move you see just a hint of it. I love the ribbing that is done at the very bottom of the sweater. It lets you move and hold the sweater in place where you wish around the waist and it gives the sweater just enough shape that it doesn't feel unintentionally sloppy. It is very sexy and very sensual. Excellent condition
Unlined and slips over the head to wear. Tagged a Gucci medium. It appears to have been worn very little, if at all. The knit does have some stretch. The measurements below are the comfortable range laying flat.
Sleeves: approx 28" and are 11-15" around the upper arm
Shoulders: no defined seam
Bust: 18-23" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 17-22" flat across from side seam to side seam
Bottom hem: 14-19" flat across from side seam to side seam
Total Length: qpprox 23" from top of shoulder to hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-MED
Item# DD4731
Reference Photo/Video: Fall 2001 Gucci, Look 26. Model Delfine Bafort.
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
loris azzaro
1990s Loris Azzaro Black Stretch Jersey Dress w Chiffon Angel Sleeves & Black Sequin Detailing
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Loris Azzaro launched his label in 1967 and quickly defined his trademark looks by using ornate beading, sequins, daring cut-outs and avant garde ways of defining the body. Some of the most beautiful women in the world wore his clothing including Marisa Berenson, Raquel Welch, Jane Birkin, Sophia Loren, Brigitte Bardot and Tina Turner. It was a label that defined sexiness and had a certain French flare that women world-wide loved. This is a label that I really love and am always happy to find pieces of.
This is an easy dress to wear because of the fabrics that it is made out of. Making fabrics that were comfortable to wear on the body glamorous and luxurious was one of the core philosophies of how Azzaro designed. This dress is made out of a black jersey through the body, which allows it some give, and then the remarkable sleeves are made out of a fine black chiffon. The lightness of the fabric used for the sleeves gives them incredible movement once this is on the body. The neckline sits wide across the neck and then it is edged in a row of overlapping black sequins. It skims over the body from there, past the bust, waist and hips to open out slightly as it nears the hem. Onto the front of the dress are five curving seams that are highlighted with a band of sequins. They almost give the impression of slashes across the front of the dress. The final sequin band curves down to meet the top of a slit that allows for some bare leg to show when you walk. The sleeves fall over the shoulders and are completely open along their insides. Once on the body these cascade all the way down to the hem of the dress and create the most incredible moment. The chiffon that they are made of keeps them ultralight so as you move they catch the slightest bit of air to swirl and billow around you. It is an incredibly easy dress to wear and incredibly glamorous once on the body. Excellent condition.
Unlined and slips on to to wear with a hidden set side zipper. It appears to have been worn very little if at all. The fabric does have some stretch and the measurements below are the comfortable range when laying flat
Bust: 16.5-19" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 14.5-17" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 18.5-22" flat across from side seam to side seam
Total length: 59" from neck to hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-MED
Item# DD4725
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
christian dior
Prettiest Fall 1979 Christian Dior by Marc Bohan Black Silk Lace Net Dress w White Sequins & Bows
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This exceptional dress is by Marc Bohan for Christian Dior and it is a wonderful example of his work during this time period. We have dated it to the Fall 1979 collection based on the reference and runway photos we found of pieces with similar fabric and cuts. I love that it feels like a throwback to the work of the original Mr. Dior and that it has such a beautiful feel of old world glamour to it. Bohan's work was integral to the labels development over the decades that he headed the atelier and this is a stunning example of his vision. Beyond that it is just an extraordinarily beautiful dress.
I love the nod to the 1950s in this dress. It has that classic little New Look shape to it that we all love and associate with the house of Dior. At the front the neckline is squared off by how the sleeves are set into the dress combined with the straight across cut of the neckline. Across the front of the neckline it is detailed with a wide black silk ribbon that has a pretty bow at the front. The sleeves are a single layer of the silk netting are are covered with those pretty white sequins. They curve softly over the shoulders and fall just below the elbow. The transparency of the netting lets you see a glimpse of the skin underneath. At the back the netting angles down towards the centre of the back where they meet another wide black ribbon finish there as well. The bodice is gathered across and into a vertical strip of the fabric that is detailed with three rhinestone and crusted buttons. It skims over you to the waist with a boned and shaped interior. The skirt is gathered in all around the waist and there is a great amount of fabric in the skirt. This allows it to fall in those soft folds that you see but when you move it has incredible movement. The bottom is anchored by another wide finish of black silk satin ribbon that ties the entire dress together. I love that the entire dress is covered with hand sewn white sequins and there two secondary patterns worked through the netting that gives it added texture. It is incredibly beautiful and the photos don't truly convey the sense of texture the dress has in person. It is a stunning example of Dior from this time period that somehow manages to feel perfectly timeless. Excellent condition.
Fully lined in a black silk chiffon. It closes with a hidden set backer and a hook and eye at the inner waist stay. The interior of the bodice is lightly boned and shaped.
Sleeves: approx 17" and 13" around the upper arm
Shoulders: no defined seams
Bust: 17" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 14" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: open
Bodice: 18" from top of bodice to waist
Total length: 50.5" from top of the shoulder to hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED
Item# DD4686
Reference Photos: Fall 1979 Christian Dior.
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
alexander mcqueen
Spectacular Spring 2008 Alexander McQueen 'La Dame Bleue' Look 26 Red Feather Trim Black Suit
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This suit is instantly recognizable as an Alexander McQueen piece and it is stunning. The spring 2008 collection was called 'La Dame Bleue' and was a tribute to his mentor and friend Isabella Blow who had committed suicide on May of 2007 after a long bout of illness. His statement of the show was this; 'Isabella flew. The collection is exuberant and excessive. It's about her way of thinking and that way of thinking brought light into fashion. Even when she was down she was up with what she wore. I had the best times with Isabella. I remember going to Mauritius with her and I'd come back from scuba diving and it would be 100 degrees and she'd be standing on the beach head to toxin McQueen with a Philip Treacy Hat on. Or we'd be sitting around the pool and she'd still be head to toe in McQueen with a Philip Treacy hat on. I've though a lot about why she would wear things like that and she wore them because it made her feel like a diva. She was a diva in what she wore. She pulled it off. I never blinked at what she wore. It just seemed normal. So this was a collection about Isabella ad about wearing clothes that transform you." The entire show was a beautiful testament to someone he loved dearly. In Vogue's review of the collection they said; 'All terrible emotions apart, McQueen, like every other designer, can only be judged in the unsparing light of the general arena of fashion. To put it bluntly, this collection—after an off season last time—was going to stand or fall based on whether his clothes were any good....It stood. McQueen mustered the clarity to dispense with smoke and mirrors and show his capabilities in cut, drape, and feathered flourish to an audience near enough to inspect every detail. He stepped up to the plate by running through all his archived knowledge—Savile Row tailoring in Prince of Wales menswear check jackets and strict, strong-shouldered suiting, combined with the legacy of his couture experience in fan-pleated chiffon, goddess-y drape, and hand-crafted drama. The theme of birds—particularly symbolic of Blow—held the show together through a reprise of all the highlights of McQueen's career... In all, McQueen honored his mentor by striving to bring out the best in himself.' This was the fifth last collection of his career and these last collections are considered to be some of his most brilliant.
The suit is identical to the one that walked the show with the addition of the wide black patent belt. Very few of these would have been produced and it is amazing to have such an wonderful piece of his work in the shop and to have the full suit with both its detachable feather collar and belt. This one has the extra added provenance of having been lent by me and worn by Sofia Carson for the Unicef 75th Anniversary Luncheon. Its twin was also worn by none other then Michelle Obama for her Ebony Magazine cover
A piece like this truly showcases McQueen’s strong tailoring background and master cutting abilities. The suit is made from a light black wool suiting fabric and gives a nod to his heritage and strong tailoring roots. The jacket is also cut with sharply tailored lines and then he has added that spectacular feather collar and brought in the waist with the belt to create a more feminine shape. The belt slips through slits on either side of the back. I love that it still feels very refined despite its avant garde details and cut. The shoulders are squared off and padded to hold their shape. Each sleeve is cut on a slight curve in the proper manner of tailoring a sleeve and ends in 4 buttons at each cuff. The body of the jacket is shaped with a female body in mind and is cut in at the waist for shape. It closes with a single button there. I am obsessed with the collar. The neckline is edged in a black patent that curves around the neck and narrows down to a point where it then meets the button at the waist. The feather collar is detachable and is made by a thick overlapping of red dyed feathers with black painted edges. It buttons into place along the inside of the collar and is set to stand up and frame the neck. This gives it a very unusual detailing and plays into the avian theme the show had. Under the waist the jacket skims over the hips and it is slightly cropped. Slant pockets sit on each hip and they still have their original tacking. At the back it is cut to flare out a touch. The skirt has been kept very simple so that it is the jacket that shines. It is cut with a flat front and is fitted into a short pencil silhouette. You really need to watch the runway clip to see just how stunning it in on and moving. I also photoed it in all its variations so you can see it with and without the belt and feather collar. The workmanship is meticulous and it is an absolutely beautiful and a rare piece of his work. Excellent condition with a minor note below.
Both piece are fully lined in a black silk. The jacket closes with a single button at the front. The skirt closes with a hidden set zipper. The feather collar buttons into place and the belt closes with hidden snaps. The jacket is tagged a size 40, the skirt a 42 and the belt is a 38. Padding on the shoulders and the pockets on the jacket have their original tacking to close them. It looks like the sides of the skirt were taken in a touch at some point and when it was lent to Sofia it was taken in a little more with a temporary alteration and you can see a bit of the stitch lines on the inner lining. A bit of crinkling on the belt but it is where it sits under the jacket when on so is not seen when worn
Jacket
Sleeves: 24.5"
Shoulders: 15"
Bust: to 18" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: to 14" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 19" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 24" from neck to longest point of hem
Skirt
Waist: to 13.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 18.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 21" from waist to hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED
Item# DD3870
Reference Photos/Video: (1-4) Spring 2008 Alexander McQueen Runway Collection, Look 26. Model: Raquel Zimmermann. / (5) Sofia Carson at the Unicef 75th Anniversary Luncheon, Dec 2021. / (6) Michelle Obama in Alexander McQueen, Ebony, September 2008. / (7) From the book “Alexander McQueen” edited by Claire Wilcox.
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
bill blass
Prettiest 1970s Bill Blass Black Silk Organza Dress w Extensive Ruffle Detailing & Full Puff Sleeves
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Bill Blass launched his label in 1970 when he bought out the Maurice Rentner label and re-launched it under his own name. Blass was arguably one of the most famous of the American designers. His forte was the ability to mix simple styles with luxurious materials and his evening wear in particular seemed to have a way of flattering the wearer. He knew how to walk that line perfectly. This is a beautiful example of his work from this time period.
The dress is made from a light weight black silk organza and it is an easy-to-wear and very pretty dress. The dress is made to look as if it wraps around you but it actually is fully secured all the way around. The bodice has a cross over the front and is meant to skim over you to the waist. At the back it closes with a hook and eye at the top of the neck and then there is an open keyhole slit to where the zipper begins just above the waist. I love how the back and upper part of the shoulders are made from only one layer of the organza so that it has a touch of transparency. This transparency has been carried over to the sleeves as well. The sleeves are spectacular. Each one is extremely full and balloons out over the cuffs. They are also open with a keyhole from the top of the shoulder to the wrist. The wrist is highlighted with a bow made from the same organza and then you have a huge double ruffle of silk that falls over your hands. The waist is brought in and has an attached band of the same organza that you tied to one side. Under that the skirt falls to the floor and widen out beautifully. It is scooped up at the front to one side and there is another double layer of ruffles that begins at the top of the hip and then falls all the way to the floor. It follows the edge of the skirt all the way around the back and then scoops up the other side. This adds that incredible volume and drama to the skirt that you see. The skirt is lined underneath and the inner skirt has a smaller open slit so that your full leg is not exposed. If you wanted to, you could easily expand that inner slit so that opened all the way up and you did see all of your leg. It is gorgeous and even more beautiful in person. Excellent condition with a minor note below.
Fully lined in a black silk. It closes at the back of the neck with a hook at the top of the neck and a zipper starting just above the waist. Each cuff hooks to close, and the belt at the waist snaps into place. Perhaps the tiniest bit of fading to an edge here or there, but this is a natural occurrence with this type of fabric in this age of garment and I'm being pretty picky.
Sleeves: 29" including the 6 inch ruffle. 15" around the upper arm.
Shoulders: 16"
Bust: to 19" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: to 14" flat across from side seam to side seam
Inner hips: to 19" flat across from side seam to side seam
Bodice: 14" from top of shoulder to top of the band at the waist
Total length: 61" from top of the shoulder to hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: MED-LRG
Item# DD4656
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
jean paul gaultier
Masterpiece Fall 2001 Jean Paul Gaultier Runway Haute Couture Beaded & Embroidered Pant w Silk Jersey Top Set
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Jean Paul Gaultier's illustrious career spans decades. His first show was in 1976 and his avant garde designs quickly gained him the reputation of being fashion's 'l'enfant terrible'. His designs mixed cultures with abandon, gender norms were blurred through his pieces and the body was presented encased in ways unimaginable prior to his brilliant vision. In 1997 he entered the sanctified world of Haute Couture and for just over two decades produced stunning work cumulating with his final show for Spring 2020. His pieces of couture rarely come to market and I am very pleased to have this unbelievably beautiful ensemble. This was look 33 for the Fall 2001 Haute Couture presentation entitled 'China and Spain'. For this season Gaultier combined elements from those two countries in a beautiful homage. Pieces from this collection were featured in the The Fashion World of Jean Paul Gaultier: From the Sidewalk to the Catwalk exhibit of 2013 and to have a piece available for purchase is almost as rare as being able to have bought it as a couture client in the first place. After the show Gaultier said of this collection “I wanted to do something more sensual than sexy. The idea was to bring together everything that you imagine when you think of China and Spain—theater, movement, color, history and richness.” The twin of this look was worn by Alec Wek on the runway with a huge red bib neckpiece over the top. We believe that this may have been the only piece ever produced beyond the runway set.
It is extraordinary to think that Jean Paul Gaultier has only produced a Haute Couture line for two short decades given his long career. Like most Haute Couture, this is a set that only truly comes to life when it is on an actual body and the reference photos and video show you just how amazing it is on. The pants are a work of art. They are heavy and densely beaded with glass tube beads in tightly spaced rows to cover every inch of the pants. Worked in and among the sequins are brilliantly coloured hand embroidered flowers. These trail over the pants and wrap around the legs. The work to place each of these beads individually and do the embroidery would have taken hundreds of hours to complete. They are cut with a flat front and straight leg that gets a touch wider by the hem. When you the light catches the beads and the colours of the embroidered flowers is fantastic. The top is made out of a fine black silk jersey. It closes with a complex mix of a hidden zipper front and two separate areas of silk covered snaps and hooks. It wraps around the body and drapes down one side. The collar is high and you can see the nod to China within its shape. Each sleeve is incredibly long and they are meant to be pushed up to create a row of rounded gathers forming around the entire lower part of the arm. I love the long trailing panel of the silk jersey set on one hip. It falls over that pant on that side to the floor. It is meant to have a nod to the trade de luces cape, which is part of the traditional clothing that Spanish bullfighters wear. It is a brilliant piece of Haute Couture and is everything you want to see in a Haute Couture piece. It appears to have never been worn or worn very little. Excellent condition.
The upper portion of the top is lined in silk and it zips to close at the inside front. A jersey panel wraps over this and closes with a series of silk covered snaps and hook & eye along the side near the neck. More hook & eye sits along the waist and hip area on that same side. The pants are fully lined in a silk and close with a hand set zipper. Made by hand to Haute Couture standards. Proper Couture tags on both pieces.
Top
Sleeves: 45.5" and push up to wear
Shoulders: 15"
Bust: to 19" flat across from side seam to side seam
Interior waist: to 13" flat across from side seam to side seam, inner waist stay hooks at 14"
Hips: open
Length: 29" from neck to shortest point of the front side, 37" to longest point of the back
Hip swag: 47" from waist to longest point of the hem
Pant
Waist: 13" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 19" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 42" from top of bodice to waist
Inseam: 30" from inner seam to hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED
Item# DD3581
Reference Photos/Video: Alek Wek for Fall 2001 Jean Paul Gaultier Haute Couture Collection.
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
oscar de la renta
c 1970 Oscar de la Renta Black Silk Taffeta Backless Halter Neck Dress w Extensive Ruffle Detailing
I Have a Question
I love when I find these earlier examples of Oscar de la Renta's work. He would heave been more personally involved in them and they really showcase the designer he was to become. The label on this dress tells us that it's probably late 60s maybe the first couple years of the 1970s and it seems similar to some of the pieces I've seen from the 1970 season. The dress beautifully showcases the the genius of his work and attention to detail. This is a favourite from him that I've had in the shop
The dress is gorgeous and is made from a beautiful black silk taffeta that holds the shape and volume that this dress has perfectly. The fabric choice also keeps the dress fairly light in weight while giving the dress some structure and shape. The front bodice is stunning. Two shaped triangles cover the front of the bodice, and there is a deep V for the neckline. The triangles extend all the way to the top of the neck and they are finished with a ruffle in the same fabric. This makes that V be a little less apparent and is a pretty detailing as it goes up and around your neck. Ties extend from just behind the peak of each triangle to tie behind the neck. It wraps around the waist and scoops low there. This leaves your entire back open and bare above that. I love this unexpected bare skin moment that is in stark contrast to the coverage at the front. The waist nips in and we have added a wide grosgrain ribbon to add a little more shape. The skirt deserves it own moment. It is made out of the same silk taffeta as the bodice. It explodes out from the waist to become incredibly full by the time it reaches the hem. Tiers of silk allow this expansion and there are five tiers in total. Each tier is finished with that same ruffled detail that you see around the halter neck and this really makes the dress special. Inside there is a silk lining and then another netted lining sits between the outer skirt and that inner layer. This helps to hold the volume that you see and it is spectacular. The photos on the dress form do not come close to doing it justice. This is a dress that needs an actual body in it and then it really comes to life. When you walk the taffeta rustles and the skirt swoops around to create this stunning billowing effect. Then when you turn to leave you have that flash of bare skin at the back. It is utterly amazing. Excellent condition
Fully lined in a layer of silk taffeta and the skirt is lined as described above. The dress closes with a low set zipper at the back. Hand finished throughout. The ribbon at the waist is not original to the dress but will be sent with it
Bust: each triangle covers 8 inches plus there's an inch and a half a ruffle on each side. There's no true side scene.
Waist: 12.5-13.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: open
Bodice: approx 15" from top of shoulder to waist
Total length: 59" from neck to hem and can be adjusted a bit depending on were you tie the neck
Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED
Item# DD4633
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.