Ady Couture

Fall 1985 Unlabeled Ady Couture for YSL Black Silk Hip Swag Dress w Pink Bow Print

This dress was made by hand in the atelier of Ady Couture who was based in Lausanne Switzerland. Ady herself was a couture trained seamstress and headed a team who had full permission of the Haute Couture houses she worked with to make the designs they showed in Paris for clients based in Switzerland and the surrounding areas. She would purchase the couture fabrics from the couture houses along with the patterns and then make the actual dresses in her atelier. This arrangement with the couture houses was a way to work around customs during this time period and do fittings for clients unable to travel to Paris. So far we have verified that she had this arrangement with Yves Saint Laurent, Christian Dior, Givenchy and Ungaro. There may have been others but those are the four labels we have documentation on from the runway. This particular dress is a YSL copy from the Fall 1985 Couture collection. I have included the runway photo of a that dress. This dress does not have a label but is from the time period that she lived in Switzerland. There is also the possibility that it is an actual YSL because she was also buying from some more well know labels at the time. It is priced as an Ady piece and the context that it would have with that label. The dress is completely made by hand to Haute Couture standards and it is an incredible piece.

This is a dress that when you see it on the hanger is really doesn't look like much but the second it hit the dress form it came to life. I can only imagine how amazing it will be once on an actual body. It is made out of a rich liquid silk satin that drapes and falls over the body beautifully. The bodice is fitted and it nips in at the waist. The skirt below that falls in a sleek column that wraps around you and overlaps itself at the front. This allows it to open slightly when you walk so you get a bit of leg showing. Attached around the waist is a draped panel of fabric that hooks into place along one hip and then you tie the long extended ties into place. I have tied it into a bow so that there is more volume there. I also shot one photo where it is just looped so that the ties hang long down the side. This gives the illusion of a more voluminous skirt then there actually is and also gives the dress a nod back the forties in feel. At the back it buttons into place with a series of glossy black buttons and the back dips into a low V for a little expanse of skin to show above that. The silk is a true black that has that amazing bow and ribbon print in a vibrant pink screened over it. It is gorgeous. Inside it is completely finished to couture standards with every seam hand finished. I have taken some detail shots for you to see the fine workmanship inside. It is an incredible piece and just beautifully made. It appears to have been worn very little if at all. Excellent condition 

Fully lined in a black silk crepe through the skirt and a silk crepe chiffon through the bodice. It closes with a low set zipper at the back and buttons to close above that. The hip swag wraps around you and hooks into lace with four hook & eye. Hand finished throughout. It appears to have been for very little if at all. Made to Haute Couture standards with a tremendous amount of detail put into its construction.

Bust: to 18" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 14" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 20" flat across from side seam to side seam
Bodice: 16" from top of bodice to waist
Skirt: 41" from waist to hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED

Item# DD3673

Reference Photos: (1) Fall 1985 Yves Saint Laurent Couture Runway.

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

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Please review all measurements carefully. More often than not, vintage garments do not fit any size category exactly. If in doubt, measure a garment of your own that fits and is a similar cut and compare it's measurements to the listed measurements below.