Louis Mies
1970s Louis Mies Couture Level Black Silk Taffeta Dress w Embroidered Flowers & Ruffled Detailing
This is from my same client whose aunt purchased from Ady Couture who I explained in depth in this listing while she was living in Switzerland during the eighties and into the nineties. Prior to that, during the late sixties and seventies her aunt lived in both France and Brussels where she purchased pieces from Louis Mies. Mies was a small independent couturier who did custom work for his clients to couture standards. He designed many piece for the Queen of Belgium and like Ady, he had permission from several of the Haute Couture ateliers to produce their Haute Couture pieces using the patterns and buying the fabric direct. After some research I think this is inspired by the Fall 1970 Givenchy collection. In that collection he used riffles at the neck and hem quite extensively and also used this same silhouette. Given her overall wardrobe and love of couture and having things copied I am quite sire that this is from that collection. It is stunning and one of my favourite personal pieces form her estate so far.
This is such a gorgeous dress and it is beautifully made. All of the finished are by hand and it has all those lovely details that you expect in a couture level garment. It is made out of a black silk taffeta and this fabric choice helps it to hold its intended shape. On the main body of the dress the silk has been finished with hand embroidered flowers. Some are a pink with green leaves and then others are a turquoise blue with green. These add a pretty bit of bright fresh colour to the dress and give it such a lovely and romantic feel. The bodice is more fitted and the neckline is set wide across the shoulders. Circling the neckline is a ruffled collar. Two layers of silk have been used and each is sewn into place down its centre so that you get the effect of four layers. They have been sharply knife pleated to add even more texture. These frame the upper shoulders and if you are very slim cut through the shoulders I think you might be able to wear them off the shoulder too. From there the waist nips in and then the skirt flows to the floor and widens out quite a bit as it nears the hem. The bottom of the dress is finished with the same ruffle technique as the collar but there they are set so fold over each other as opposed to open up like they do at the neckline. Inside the skirt is a full built in under-skirt and I love that it has been done in a bright vivid pink silk taffeta. It is like a little hidden secret burst of colour that you will only get a glimpse of when you move or sit. That inner skirt is also finished with a layer of the black silk ruffles and it set slight below the top skirt in length. So the final effect is three layers of ruffles at the hem. Its wonderful and there are even pockets hidden on each hip. The interior is made to couture standards with all the inner seams finished by hand. I have included some shots of the inner seams for you to see. It is extraordinary and the kind of quality and beauty that you will only find with vintage. It appears to have been worn very little. Excellent condition
Fully interlined in a black silk crepe chiffon though the bodice and skirt. Built in pink silk taffeta inner skirt. It closes with a back fine metal zipper and has a waist stay that hooks to close. Pockets on each hip. It looks like its been taken in at some point through the bodice. There is at least an inch and a bit of fabric on either side of each inner seam through the bodice to let it out if needed. The inside is all hand done and it is finished to couture standards.
Bust: 17" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 13-14" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: open
Bodice: 15" from top of bodice to waist
Skirt: 42" from waist to hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED
Item# DD3672
Reference Photo: Fall 1970 Givenchy.
This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.
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Please review all measurements carefully. More often than not, vintage garments do not fit any size category exactly. If in doubt, measure a garment of your own that fits and is a similar cut and compare it's measurements to the listed measurements below.
