Bill Blass launched his label in 1970 when he bought out the Maurice Rentner label and re-launched it under his own name. This has a similar feel to a dress I had in the shop a few years back that dated to 1971 and I suspect that this is from that same time period. Blass was arguably one of the most famous of the American designers. His forte was the ability to mix simple styles with unexpected materials in way that was very flattering to the wearer. Even when the dress was as extravagant as this one is, he knew how to walk that line perfectly. This is the type of piece that you are only ever going to find in vintage.

This very early piece of his work and with its glamorous fabric and that dramatic feather collar I think it is some of his very best work ever. The dress is stunning and besides the actual beauty of it as a dress, the fabric is one of the best textiles I have ever seen. It is a soft light weight wool or wool mix and it is printed with a tremendously beautiful lion print that runs across its entire surface. Where the print sits on the front bodice it has been beaded to follow the print underneath. It is a subtle addition that you noticed the closer you get, but it is there and gives the dress the most amazing added tactile sensation. To offset the texture and extravagance of the print on that fabric, the actual lines of the dress are fairy simple. The bodice skims over the bust to the seamed waist that is slightly high. the sleeves are long and straight with a little notch at the end of each cuff. The neckline is high and scooped. The skirt falls from the waist to the floor in a gentle widening line. The neck is, of course where all of the true drama of the peace resides. Here we see that gorgeous feathered collar in all its glory. The collar is attached and the feathers on the collar have been hand dyed to match the colours of the dress. The effect is amazing and it is even better on person and on an actual body as all the elements really come to life. It is really one of the most dramatic pieces ever done by him. A true collectors piece. Excellent condition 

Fully lined in a creamy silky rayon and closes with the back zipper. The feathers are stable and show no shedding. The bead work on the front is all done by hand. Ribbon edge inner hem and hand finishing throughout.

Sleeves: 22" and are 11" around the upper arm
Shoulders: 14.5"
Bust: to 18" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: to 14" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: open
Bodice: 14" from neck to waist
Total length: 57" from neck to hem with 2" turned under the hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-MED

Item# DD4973

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This is a spectacular dress that has no label and could very well be a one off. I can't help but think that it was inspired by the stunning dress worn by Hedy Lamarr in the 1941 film Ziegfeld Girl. This would make a spectacular event dress and would absolutely be a phenomenal piece for a bride.

The upper bodice of the dress is made from a deep nude coloured netting done in a double layer. Onto this is a white netting that has gold flowers woven through it. Rhinestones are scattered over the entire bodice and run down and around the waist. The neckline is made from four flowers cut out and wrapped around the neck. It is meant to skim over the bust and waist and then the skirt falls from under that to the floor. The skirt widens out substantially as it nears the hem which gives you beautiful movement when you walk and move. The entire lower hem of the skirt is finished with more of the same rhinestones that are scattered across the bodice. It is gorgeous. The sleeves are spectacular. Each sleeve falls from the shoulder all the way to past the hem of the dress. They are cut very wide and are open to give them a cape feel. Each one is finished along the bottom hem with a row of ostrich feathers in a deep ivory. This is a clever way to add some weight to the bottom of the sleeve and also add spectacular movement. When I say they are wide by the bottom of the hem, I mean it. I measured and each one is just under 8 feet across. Each sleeve is detailed with more of the rhinestones along with more cut outs of the gold and white flowers set along the vertical lengths on each side of the sleeve. It is beautifully elaborate and over the top. This is the type of piece that you will only ever find in vintage. It is spectacular. Excellent condition

The dress is lined in an ivory silky rayon through the skirt and a the same nude netting through the bodice. It closes with a zipper at the back. The zipper has a slight sticky feel to it, but it is original and works perfectly fine so I have left it. Otherwise it appears to have been worn very little.

Sleeves: 60" plus the feathers go past the hem a few inches
Shoulders: 16"
Bust: to 19.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: to 15.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: open
Bodice: approx 15.5" from neck to waist
Total length: 59" from neck to hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: MED-LRG

Item# DD4918

Reference photos: Cherie, Owner of Shrimpton Couture, by Erin Leydon.

All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.

The twin of this dress appears in the book on Thea Porter's work that accompanied the exhibit on her work. The photo appears on page 73. The caption in the book notes that "Claudia Bruce wearing a peasant style dress in a Persian paisley print combined with Damascus fabric and a leather and feather headdress. Greeks Street, London, 1969.". It is so rare to find runway photos of her shows and to have all this extra information is fantastic. 1969 is also an interesting year to note because it is the year that she started to sell her designs at Giorgio Beverly Hills. It was said that when word got out that Thea had new things in the Girorgio boutique, women ran to be able to get a piece for themselves, they sold out that fast. This is the only one I have ever seen like this outside of that book photo. Given her extremely limited run on certain pieces it may in fact be the only other one that was made and exists. It is truly a very special piece.

The dress is a fantastic combination of fabrics and this was something that Thea excelled at. She had the ability to source these fantastic antique fabrics and then mix and match them to put them together in a way that you had never seen done before. The front panel combines a floral and paisley print with beautiful detailing between. It runs down the front in a long rectangle shape and then she curved it over the shoulders and ran another panel of it down the back. The rest of the dress is made out of a clay coloured silk organza that has a beautiful pattern hand embroidered over its surface. A little chain of white embroidery runs through that pattern for a little bit of a pop. At the end of each sleeve there is an insert of the cotton fabric. This is set in a wide band all around the cuffs with these little points running up into the sleeve. The shape of the dress is easy and comfortable to wear. It skims over the body and flares out slightly as it reaches the hem. Slits run up each side so you get a flash of leg when you walk. Each sleeve is fantastic. Each is a full and voluminous balloon type sleeve that puffs up extravagantly around each wrist. The collar on the dress is perhaps the best part. A tie loops through the front part only and for most of the shots I have tied it enough so that it scoops like it does in the runway shot. However, you can loosen the front up and that allows you to push the dress down the shoulders to expose a full expanse of bare skin across the top of the shoulders. It is phenomenal. This is a very rare example of her work and most likely you will never see one again. Excellent condition.

Unlined and slips over the head to wear. The front collar can be adjusted with the tie as described above. Each cuff has a snap to close. It appears to have been worn very little if at all. There are little bits of blue dye on the front and back panel that looks like it has run a touch but I believe this is inherent to this fabric and this may have been like that since the day it was made. I do not think it is a flaw, but rather a result of the fact that the fabric was hand screened. Tagged a vintage Thea Porter UK 10. The easy cut should allow it to fit a range of sizes.

Sleeves: approx 15" and will come up a touch when the cuff is closed. Each upper arm is 13.75" around
Shoulders: no true defined scene
Bust: to 19" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: to 18" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 22" flat across from side seam to side seam
Total length: 54.5" from top of shoulder to hem with 2" turned under the hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-SML

Item# DD4899

Reference Photos: Claudia Bruce for Thea Porter. Greek Street, London, 1969. (2) From the book Thea Porter: Bohemian Chic.

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In 1951 a 27 year old James Galanos launched his first label called Galanos Originals. By 1954 he had won a Coty award and the Neiman Marcus award. By 1958 he was producing clothing that could range in price from $200 to $3000, an astronomical price for ready-to-wear for that time period. His ready-to-wear line was made close to couture standards and with a level of craftsmanship that was on par with the French couturiers. Galanos was a master cutter and draper and he used many couture techniques in his work. Grace Kelly was an early fan. He was truly one of the great American designers and his work is held in all of the major museums around the world. He is one of my personal favourites. This dress is absolutely gorgeous.

This is a dress that is extremely well made with a very high level of construction techniques. That alone makes it a fabulous piece for me. The dress is made from two types of lace that give the dress its beautiful tactile feel. Everything about the cut is done to highlight and showcase those wonderful sculptural lines that the dress has. The dress falls from lace straps that curve up and over each shoulder. It dips down at the front and the back is scooped to leave a bare expanse of skin. It skims over the bust to the slight empire cut waist. The waist is generous and the lines of the dress are stunning. The bodice is covered with a beautiful black lace with a second layer of lace on top of the nude silk lining underneath so you get a little bit of extra depth to the pattern that you see. The skirt is made out of a heavy corded silk lace. The cording is also a clever way to help to shape the skirt so beautifully. The skirt curves out and over the hips and then widens out to the hem. The top lace layer sits over a deep green silk inner skirt. Having the deep moss green underneath highlights the cord and lace more than adding just a black under skirt would have. It is genius. The silk underneath also helps to hold the fuller shape the skirt has. The shape was all created by clever seaming and cut and it is so much better in person it is ridiculous. He is a designer who cut for the body, not the hanger or a dress form. His work only truly comes to life once on. The workmanship on this dress is exquisite and to demi-couture standards. Excellent condition.

Lined in a nude silk through the bodice and the inner piece of the skirt is backed in a black silk organza. It closes with a back zipper. Hand finishes throughout.

Bust: 16-17" flat across from side seam to side seam
Seam under the bust: 15.5" across
Hips: open
Bodice: 12.5" from top of shoulder to seam under the bust
Total length: 52" from top of shoulder to hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED

Item# DD4843

All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.

Philippe Venet apprenticed to a local tailor who is authorized to make Balenciaga designs. In 1951 he moved to Paris and became a cutter to Schaparelli. From there he met Hubert de Givenchy and in 1962 joined his atelier where he was the head cutter. In 1964 he opened his own Haute Couture label with Givenchy's blessings and support. His work tended towards minimalism and clean lines. His business was never as large as Givenchy's which allowed him to be more hands on for a longer period of time. Couture pieces from him are rare and hard to find and the early were ones like this even more so. This was almost certainly a piece custom-made for somebody and it is incredibly beautiful.

The dress is amazing and showcases how wonderful a piece of true Haute Couture can be. It is made entirely by hand and the silk is that beautiful rich silk that you only seem to see in the very best pieces of couture. The dress wraps over an inner dress and this added inner structure keep the dress perfectly in place and also gives it the structure needed so that the outer layer falls perfectly over you. The bodice is cut into a V and it wraps, snaps and hooks into place. I love the way that he has brought in angled seaming and pleating to create the design that you see at the base of the plunge. On the panel that sits underneath the wrap everything is angled towards the centre of the dress and then the panel that sits over the wrap is set so that the pleats fall vertically all the way down to the hem. The hem is set on a curve that goes up at the front and around at the back. So when you walk you get a flash of bare legs. The back is cut longer and depending on your height you will have a bit of a sweeping behind you. The cut also gives you some pretty fullness and shape through the hips. At the back the seams are set vertically so that you just get one long swoop of fabric that extends out as touch at the bottom hem. There are even weights placed inside of the back so that it sits perfectly once on. Underneath this is a structured foundation piece. It has a structured corset top with boning and shaped cups in an ivory silk. The skirt is made of the same silk as the exterior and it is cut to just about the knee depending on your height. All of the inner seams are finished completely by hand and seeing how it is all piece together is a joy in itself.  The colour of the silk is a beautiful creamy ivory. This is a brilliant dress and when you see it in person you will fall in love with how good it is. It really shows how sometimes simplicity can have so much of an impact. It would be a dress that might make an amazing wedding dress for the bride looking for a non-traditional choice, for a day wedding, or as an alternative dress in a more extended wedding celebration. Excellent condition with a minor note below

The inner dress acts as the lining and then the outer dress is also fully lined in an ivory silk. All the work is done by hand to Haute Couture standards. The inner dress closes with a hand set side zipper at the front. The outer dress snaps into place directly onto the inner dress and then the outer dress wraps and snapped onto itself. The zipper on the inner dress was slightly moved at some point but of course you don't see this once on. I have included a photo in the detail shots. I see a tiny hairline mark of thinning near the neckline and some wear to the edges of the top of the seams. Please see the photos after the label shot. Completely made by hand. Proper Haute Couture numbered label present. 

Outer Dress
Bust: 17.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 15.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 20" flat across from side seam to side seam
Total length: 57" from top of shoulder to longest point of the back hem

Inner dress
Bust: 15.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 12.25" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 17.25" flat across from side seam to side seam
Bodice: 15" from top of shoulder to waist
Total length: 38" from top of shoulder to hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-SML

Item# DD4779

All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.