john galliano

Spectacular Spring 2000 John Galliano Deep Pewter Coloured Bias Cut Silk Dress w Matching Fringed Shawl

John Galliano began his own label in 1984 and he was instantly a bit of a 'boy wonder' in fashion. He was British Fashion Council Designer of the Year in 1987, 1994 and 1995. In 1991 he made his Paris catwalk debut. In 1995 he was asked to head Givenchy and then went to Dior in October of 1996. Unlike many designers he kept his own label going as well throughout the years at both those houses. His work, especially the bias cut pieces that he did, have a feeling of the decadence and abandonment of the twenties and they are beautifully cut. They marry Old Hollywood with the minimalist spirit of the nineties and early 2000s and the results are stunning. This is an amazing example of his work from the Spring 2000 season and it is gorgeous. This dress was a piece made for production for retail but it has all the things we love about his work presented in a beautifully chic and minimalist package.

The dress is gorgeous. It definitely takes inspiration from the bias cut couture pieces of the 20s and 30s. The seam work and simplicity of this dress is stunning to see and it is even better on an actual body. It is made from a beautiful silk that has a matte satin finish. The colour is like a deep pewter silver with a touch of a taupe brown undertone to it. It has that same light in weight feel that the best of the 1930s pieces did that were made from similar fabrics. Like those liquid dresses of the thirties this is also completely cut on the bias. It is cut to flow over the body and skim its way over the bust, waist and hips as it falls to the floor. The dress falls from straps that curve up and over each shoulder. The straps have their own detail that I love. Each one is a double strap that is stitched together at the top of the shoulder, crosses over themselves, and then are attached to the dress with a round disk made out of the same fabric that has been piped and stitched into a circle. He has added this detail to the front and to the back of each strap. The neckline comes down into a V and it does the same thing at the back for a pretty exposure of skin. I love how the V of the neckline picks up with the V shapes created within each strap. It skims over the bodice with no seam at the waist on the front of the dress. At the back there is a low set angled seam that gives a bit of shape through the lower back. The skirt flows down to the floor, skimming over the hips and then flaring out as it reaches the hem. The flaring shape is achieved by the bias cut of the fabric rather then extensive seaming. This gives you some pretty movement around the lower skirt when you walk or move. It also adds to the hourglass shape the dress has. It is all done so that it sits in a certain way on your hips and then that in turn affects how the entire dress sits on your body. The dress comes with its matching shawl piece that is equally incredible. It is 26" at its widest point and just over 8 feet long. At each end, the fabric is gathered into one of those circular piped discs that you see on the base of the shoulder straps, and then they are finished with a beautiful 7 1/2" tasselled fringe. You can simply drape this over your shoulders and it adds that perfect touch for when you make your entrance in the dress. It becomes an integral design detail in itself. It is these subtle little details that Galliano put into his dresses that make them heads above other pieces. The dress is spectacular. Excellent condition.

Unlined and slips over the head to wear with no true closures. Tagged a Galliano FR42, GB14, US8. The bias cut fabric does have some stretch. The measurements below give you the comfortable range the fabric has when lying flat. The bias cut should allow it to fit a range of sizes

Bust: 17-21" flat across from side seam to side seam
Dropped waist: 14-17.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 18-21" flat across from side seam to side seam
Total length: 60" from the top of the shoulder to hem
Shawl 26"w x 100" long end to end and including the tassels

Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-MED

Item# DD4814 

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SIZE GUIDE

Please review all measurements carefully. More often than not, vintage garments do not fit any size category exactly. If in doubt, measure a garment of your own that fits and is a similar cut and compare it's measurements to the listed measurements below.

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