This is a fantastic and surprisingly avant garde Haute Couture dress by Pierre Cardin. It is from the Spring 1985 collection and we have included some reference photos of the twin of the dress on the runway so that you can see how it sits on the body. They really give you an idea of how fantastic and unusual this is once it is on the body. It is a beautiful and elegant piece that may not be as mod in feel as some of Cardin's earlier pieces but it is one that shows the breadth of his talent. From a historical perspective it's also an interesting insight on the volume and play on proportion done in the 1980s.
Throughout his career Cardin often played with volume and for the 1985 collection he put huge voluminous caped bodices over narrow skirts, a silhouette we first saw him begin to do in the late 1970s. This dress is made from a fine silk that is covered in a dynamic and bold floral print. You can see that fantastic play on volume in the cut. The dress was completely made by hand and the fine workmanship is wonderful to see. That avant garde cut is all created by clever seaming and traditional couture methods and this mix is fascinating. There is an inner more sheath-like dress and then a caped piece attaches over that. The neckline is set higher across the front with a pleated over piece that falls from the shoulders. At the front it is set into a black silk ribbon that wraps around the hip area. Your arms slip underneath it at the sides and then the cape extends downwards into a long point at the back. The top layer has been softly pleated and this gives it more volume and movement as you move. It is also what gives it that incredible and unusual silhouette that you see. The skirt falls from under the wide black silk ribbon that is attached around the hip area and it is done in a sleek and simple cut to the floor. It is very chic and unusual. Excellent condition with minor notes below
Fully lined in a hand set white silk and closes with a back hidden set zipper on the inner dress. At some point the hem was let down and I have left it for the extra length. You can see a faint line where it was folded. There are light shoulder pads whose inner stuffing has degraded. I see some minor yellowing to the inner lining around the top of the zipper area and very light grubbiness to the very edge of the inner arm that you don't see because it is covered by the cape.
Inner bust: to 19" flat across from side seam to side seam
Inner waist: 17.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 20.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Bodice: 15" from top of bodice to waist
Total length: 59" from waist to hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: MED-LRG
Item# DD4981
Reference Photos: Spring 1985 Pierre Cardin Haute Couture.
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