christian dior

Important Spring 1998 Christian Dior by John Galliano "In a Boudoir Mood" Full Runway Jacket, Skirt & Camisole Set

This is a very rare and important full set from the Spring 1988 "In a Boudoir Mood" Christian Dior by John Galliano collection. It was Galliano's second ready-to-wear collection for the house. John Galliano said of this collection "I feel that we are entering a period of our own Belle Epoque as we approach the end of the millennium with a return to romanticism and elegance". The stage of the show was done to re-create the look of a turn of the century mansion with piano and pool tables with separate 'salons' through which the models walked and posed. For the suits like this one, the jackets were cut long and done in a basket weave wool. They were meant to be a nod to the famous Bar suit but shown with a floor length biased cut skirts rather than the fuller poufed look of the original version. The collection was all about fantasy and romance and had very few true day pieces. Besides the runway reference photos, I have also added one from the Dior catwalk book. On the runway, the jacket was shown in an ivory and then in the stores you had the option to get it in this pale blue, of which there were limited numbers available. 

The collections notes for this show read "the collection was imagined for a woman who rediscovered her naturally liked and graceful body in a subtle, looking silhouette and loves living in the softest lingerie she has decided to show off even for the day". The Times said that it was Galiano "most wearable yet". This is from the original client who bought all three pieces together and it is an extraordinary and rare opportunity to have a piece from this early and important collection.

All three pieces of this set are exceptional. This is the kind of once upon a time piece that brings great joy to see in person and to have in the shop.  The jacket is a staggeringly beautiful example of the work John Galliano was doing during this time. The body the jacket is made of a basket weave wool in a pale dusty blue. The front is dropped into a low V and there is a single button at the waist to hold it in place. The button deserves its own mention as it is a beautiful little antique feeling cameo whose backdrop perfectly matches the blue of the wool. The cut of the jacket is done so that it highlights the curve of the the body. It curves in at the waist and over the hips. At the front the hem curves up towards the button and then the back curves down and around to the top of the thighs. This creates this magnificent hourglass silhouette. Pockets sit on each hip and they are long curved flaps cut to to match the shape of the jacket. It is a masterpiece of tailoring and cut. The sleeves are long and each ends with a metallic ribbon detail that picks up on the silver of the skirt. Lace has been applied to the very edge of the cuffs for a bit of flounce and then you see another bit of applied lace that circles the inside of the collar. The inside of the jacket is lined in a beautiful floral embossed ivory silk. The lace of the collar is then picked up by the lace on the bodice of the camisole that goes underneath the jacket. The inner top is its own little work of art. It is made out of an ivory silk cut on the bias. There are little silver metallic medallion so and scattered over it. The top is suspended from two little straps the curve around your shoulder and the bodice is finished with more of that gorgeous lace. This piece is meant to be more loose and easy on the body. Last we have the skirt which is phenomenal in its own right. It is made out of a silver metallic fabric that has actual metal woven through to create the floral design that you see. It is completely cut on the bias and it is meant to sit a little low on the waist. The skirt flows down to the floor, curving over the hips and then flaring out as it reaches the hem. The flaring shape is achieved by the bias cut of the fabric rather then extensive seaming. This gives you some pretty movement around the lower skirt when you walk or move. It also adds to the hourglass shape the set has. It is all done so that it sits in a certain way on your hips and then that in turn affects how the skirt sits on your body. Once all the pieces are put together, the bits of metallic on the camisole and on the cuffs of the jacket all tie in so perfectly with the skirt. This is a once in a lifetime, very special opportunity, to get such a rare and amazing complete set. Excellent condition with a small note below.

The jacket is fully lined in an ivory silk and closes with the single button at the front. Light rounded padding in each shoulder. I see some marks under the arms on the lining of the jacket that do not go through. The jacket is tagged FR40, GB12, US8. The camisole slips over the head to wear. I see a very faint spot on the front. It is tagged a FR42, GB14, US10. Please see the photos after the label shot for both of those. The skirt is fully lined in a black silk and closes with a hidden set side zipper and it is tagged a FR38, GB10, US6

Jacket
Sleeves: approx 23" and are 12" around the upper arm
Shoulders: no true defined seam 5019
Bust: 17.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 15" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 19.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Total length: 26" from neck to longest point of the back hem

Camisole
Bust: 16-17.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: to 15" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 19" flat across from side seam to side seam
Total length: 22.5" from top of shoulder to hem

Skirt
Waist: 13" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 17.5-20" flat across from side seam to side seam
Total length: 50.5" from waist to hem with approx 1.5" turned under the hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED

Item# DD4815

Reference Photos/Video: Spring 1998 Christian Dior. Model: Esther de Jong.  /  Last photo from the book "Dior: Catwalk" by Thames & Hudson.

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