yves saint laurent
Important Fall 1983 Yves Saint Laurent Runway Leather Coat w Huge Sleeves & Buttons
The twin of this coat walked the Fall 1983 runway, a version of it walked the runway for the Fall 1982 Haute Couture show and the cloth version was photoed for Vogue Italia that season. Most importantly, a photo of Catherine Deneuve was taken in a version of the coat allowing us to see just how wearable the coat is despite its avant grade and bold lines. The dramatic and huge sleeve detailing was an important element for that season. This is a rare and collectible piece.
All of the documentation on this coat are gives you an idea of how spectacular the coat is in person. It is made out of a soft, supple leather that has been dyed to a deep brown. The bodice of the coat is meant to follow the lines of the body and then curve down into a slightly dropped waist seam. He has treated the lower portion of the coat like a true skirt and it is set into the seam of the waist in soft gathers. This helps to give it the fullness that you see in the photos. Pockets sit on each side of the hip. The collar is high and neat. It sits above a dramatic double row of polished hand carved wood buttons. They are large and sit in a double row of six buttons that down the front to just past the waist seam. These same buttons are then used on each sleeve. The sleeves are incredible and at the time were probably startling to see on the runway with their excessive fullness. They still feel dramatic even now. Each is cut on a rounded curve that starts at the shoulder and curves down the arm to the cuff. They are very full and wide. Six of the polished and hand carved wood buttons are hand set down the extended cuff whose overlapped edging goes right up to the elbow. Those sleeve and how they are cut are really a testament to his genius. Each button is fully functional which shows you just how much care and detail was put into the piece. Despite it being leather, the coat has been made with the same care as if it was fabric, which would have been a very innovative approach to leather for this time period. It is absolutely stunning and very rare. Excellent condition with a small note below.
Fully lined and closes at the front with the buttons as seen. All the buttons, including the ones on each sleeve are functional. Pockets on each hip. There is some minor discolouration on the inner lining. The fabric used for it tends to change colour over time so it is a natural progression of aging. One small and minor scuff to the leather next to the collar on the upper shoulder. Please see the photo after the label shot
Sleeves: 27"
Slightly inset shoulders: 14"
Bust: 18" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 16" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: open
Length: 47" from neck to hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED
Item# C402
Reference Photos: (1) Fall 1983 Yves Saint Laurent Runway. / (2-3) Yves Saint Laurent F/W 1982 Runway. / (4) F/W 1982 Yves Saint Laurent Runway in the book "Yves Saint Laurent Haute Couture Catwalk". / (5) Outfits by Yves Saint Laurent, Vogue Italia, September 1981. / (6) Catherine Deneuve
This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.
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Please review all measurements carefully. More often than not, vintage garments do not fit any size category exactly. If in doubt, measure a garment of your own that fits and is a similar cut and compare it's measurements to the listed measurements below.