bill gibb
Important 1972 Bill Gibb Couture Debut Collection Lizard Detailed Cream Jacket & Scalloped Edged Skirt
This suit is from the debut collection of Bill Gibb for the Fall 1972. In the book, Bill Gibb: Fashion and Fantasy, they note that the theme of the collection was the natural world and you can see that in this suit. As the book describes what was presented in the runway, they specifically mentioned that "there were also a lizard trim cream wool suit" which is of course this set. The book quotes fashion journalist, Suzy Menkes saying that "this is Bill Gibbs great day... for the first time showing a collection all his own. It marks the beginning of his career as a designer of the jet set." Twiggy said to Gibbs backstage "they were incredible, I loved every one, I want them all... is it possible to have one to wear tonight?". At this moment in Bill Gibbs history he was the star of fashion set. The suit is spectacular and I love that a version in black is held in the permanent collection of the Aberdeen Art Gallery and Museum. The twin of this suit was also photoed for British Vogue that season and this gives you a chance to see how fantastic it is once on. This is an incredibly important suit in terms of British Fashion history.
The suit is fantastic. The jacket has an incredible cut to it. It is cropped to the top of the hip and this adds a pretty shape. The collar is rounded and wide. Onto the collar Gibb added an amazing hand cut lizard detailing on either side which perfectly fits into his nature theme of the show. He also added snakeskin strips over the seams and this detailing of the seams like this went on to become a signature for him. It is also a clever way to highlight the cut of the jacket. I love the way the front of the jacket curves down at the front. Snakeskin straps buckles across the front and then the back has another set of buckles. We also see that same detailing over the seams there as well. The sleeves are phenomenal. They begin just above the waist and at the shoulder they are gathered in and capped. This gathering lets them sit up and off of the shoulder. They are extremely wide through the upper arm and then they narrow down to those fantastic cuffs. The cuffs have that same beautiful rounding curve to them and they are split up the middle to meet two metal buttons at the top of the snakeskin detailing. The skirt is equally as fabulous. It has a small band around the waist and then skims over the hips to flare out to be quite full by the time it reaches the hem. This skirt is made by eight panels that have been sewn together. Each panel is rounded at the bottoms and this creates that beautiful scalloped effect that you see. We took one photo with the skirt laid out flat so you could see the remarkable shape that it has. The skirt is also detailed with snakeskin that runs over the top portion of each seam where the panels are joined. A third hand cut out lizard sits across the front of the skirt to tie it all together. Hand work throughout and it is just a phenomenal piece of fashion history. It also fits in perfectly with the couture cowboy core movement we are seeing. I love that you can wear the pieces together or mix and match with things you already have. Excellent condition with a tiny note below.
Both pieces are fully lined in a white silky rayon. The jacket buckles to close at the front and the skirt zips to close under a hook and eye on the waistband. Hand finishing throughout. I see two tiny pin sized marks on one shoulder and some of the snake skin shows very minor peeling here and there that is natural to aging.
Jacket
Sleeves: 25" and 20" around the upper arm
Slightly inset shoulders: 14"
Bust: approx 18" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 15-16" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 22" from neck to the longest point of the front hem, 18" to the back
Skirt
Waist: 13-14" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 21" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 38" waist to hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED
Item# DD4668
Reference Photos: (1) Model in Bill Gibb, Vogue UK, 1972. / (2) 1972 Bill Gibb Suit in the Collection of the Aberdeen Art Gallery & Museums.
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