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Exceptional Fall 2014 Chanel Haute Couture by Karl Lagerfeld 'Concrete Baroque' Dress

In the book Chanel: Catwalk they called this collection "Concrete Baroque"  because of the innovative use of concrete within the collection. A material you definitely do not normally associate with Couture. The set was minimal and was inspired by a penthouse owned by the eccentric art collector Carlos de Beistegui in the 1930s. That penthouse featured an outdoor fireplace with a circular mirror set against a concrete wall and Karl incorporated that into the set. 'I like the idea of baroque elements and modern touches. This is the theme of the collection concrete with Baroque elements – la corbusier goes to Versailles'.

What is remarkable about this collection is that actual concrete was used throughout the pieces in the collection. It was formed into miniature tiles and used as embroidery, jewellery, buttons, braiding and mesh. In the recent Netflix show on the 90s, it is noted by Andrew Bolton, the Met Museum Director, that the process took about four years to develop. Lagerfeld stated that he 'liked the idea of using materials you wouldn't normally use for Haute Couture.'

The book also notes that several dresses were directly moulded from neoprene. Lagerfeld joked that this was 'Couture without seams'. This twin of this dress was Look 36 in the show. It was shown with a little vest over it that my client did not purchase. The pieces were sold separately. This is a modern day masterpiece and an exceptional dress from this collection.

The dress is made from neoprene as noted below and it is almost devoid of seams with only curved darts at the bust besides the bare minimal seams needed to construct the dress. The colour is a very pale ivory and has perhaps a touch more ivory than how it photoed. The hundreds of little square beads that you see are indeed that concrete material as mentioned above. They circle around the neck, the hem, run around each cuff and define the waist. A band of them runs down the front and the back and he has used them to create the idea of two little pockets on each side of the hip. They held into place by silver thread. Each individual tile was cut by hand and then carefully drilled with a small hole to allow the silver thread to be passed through it. Each would have been applied by hand. Again, it took four years to develop the technology to be able to pull this off. The dress is completely assembled by hand and it is lined with a beautiful silk lining. The proper Chanel label and numbered tape underneath is in place. This would be an exceptional dress for a bride who doesn't want to wear something traditional or perhaps as a piece for an event around a wedding weekend. And of course it would be a highlight of any Chanel collection. Excellent condition with a minor note below.

Fully lined in a hand set ivory silk and closes with a hidden set back zipper. There is a very small bit of pilling here and there, but it is extremely minor. All of the concrete tiles appeared to be fully intact and present. The Couture tape is under the Chanel couture label. It is exceptional.

Sleeves: 8" and are 12" around
Shoulders: 15"
Bust: to 17.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: to 16" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 20.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Total length: 33" from top of shoulder to hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED

Item# DD4912

Reference Photos/Video: Fall 2014 Chanel Couture, Look 36. Model Charlotte Coquelin.

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