maggy rouff
c1959 Maggy Rouff Haute Couture Champagne Silk Gown
The woman behind the Maggy Rouff label was Maggy Besançon de Wagner and she started her own label in 1928 after a working at the Haute Couture house of Drecoll. The Maggy Rouf house joined the Chambre de commerce et d'industrie de Paris in 1929 and continued to produce Haute Couture until 1965. She developed a staunch following for her gowns and one of the mainstays of her design was that each gown have a main focal point. Draping techniques, as we see portrayed magnificently in this gown, where a signature element.
I spoke to the person who handled the sale of this dress for the original owner and this was custom made for her to wear to a New Years eve party - around 1958 or '59. The gown is tremendously beautiful and has all the hallmarks of Haute Couture. It is entirely made by hand and the fabric a rich, heavy weight, champagne silk satin. It is strapless and seems to wrap around the body with soft suggestions of draping down the front and hand placed seamed drapes and curved seams over the bodice. The back is magnificent with a double layered training of fabric that attaches across the waist and hip line in a complicated series of hooks and snaps, resulting in a beautiful cascading column of shimmering silk sweeping across the back skirt. It is highlighted with little swirls of hand applied teeny tiny silver sequins for an extra bit of glimmer. Inside is a full boned and net bodice as well as a series of inner hooked stays to hold the dress in place. Where the skirt folds over itself there is actually a bit of a dip, cleverly hidden under the back training, but you will get a glimpse of leg when you sit or move a certain way - a very subtle sexuality. Presents as excellent condition but please do read the description notes.
There is a complete boned and net inner foundation garment and a series of hooked stays that run down and behind the zipper. There is a minor "grubbiness" to the fabric along the edges of parts of the side bodice, hem and zipper area (hidden once the train is in place) and very minor surface scuffs to the fabric here and there but nothing that stands out as a large flaw. Completely made by hand as Haute Couture demands and remarkable construction.
Bust: 16.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 12" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 18" flat across from side seam to side seam
Bodice: 10.5" from top of bodice to waist
Skirt: 42.5" from waist to hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-SML
Item# DD2172
This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.
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