alexander mcqueen
Amazing Spring 2004 Alexander McQueen 'Deliverance' Two Piece Set Floral Silk Chiffon Set
This two piece set is from the Spring 2004 season at McQueen and it is fantastic. In the show, he did a dress in the same print. This set version would have been produced for the shops in limited quantities. The FIDM Museum said of the show; "Deliverance, Alexander McQueen’s Spring/Summer 2004 fashion show was the hit of the season. Based on the 1969 film, "They Shoot Horses, Don’t They?" Deliverance subverted the typical fashion show narrative by reversing the order of presentation; evening gowns kicked off the extravaganza while faux-homespun daywear and a tarnished evening gown concluded the show. This narrative mirrored the film, which documents a Depression-era dance marathon. In order to earn a cash prize the hopeful participants must dance for days with only brief breaks for food and short naps. Lack of sleep and food, paired with non-stop dancing, drives the dancers to the point of emotional and physical collapse and ends in tragedy... 20 trained dancers paired with 20 models, all of whom rehearsed for two weeks. Deliverance began with models and dancers moving about the dance floor with a sense of eagerness and purpose, dressed in delicate gowns. By the end of the show, the dancer/models struggle to stay upright while dressed in patchwork garments representative of their overall decline.The emotional and physical deterioration in Deliverance is typical of McQueen’s work, which frequently explores themes related to violence and decay. Garments, particularly in his early collections, are often intentionally cut and torn and his fashion shows have been called a “theatrical staging of cruelty.”Though it almost seems counterintuitive, McQueen has expressed a strong interest in creating a feminine persona that is intimidating in its visual power."
I love the strong nod to the bias cut pieces of the 1920s and 1930s that this set has and how once you tuck in the top it has that feel of dress. It glides over the body spectacularly. The fabric is fantastically light and easy against the skin. It is a bias cut silk chiffon backed in a nude pink silk organza for the skirt and an ivory silk chiffon on the top. Even with a double layer of silk both pieces weigh ounces. Onto it is a beautiful floral pattern that covers the entire set. It is impossible to convey the lightness and movement that this has in person. The neckline of the top falls into a shallow V at the front and the silk is meant to just skim over the bust and waist. Straps curve over the shoulders and there is a soft little knot at the front for details. The bottom flares out just a touch and it's cut extra long so once you tuck it into the skirt, it stays in place. The skirt is cut with a wider more generous waist. The top portion of the skirt is a wide band of silk and I think once this is on a proper body, it will either sit on the top of your hips, slung a little low, or you could wear it higher up on the waist. A tiny row of hand set mother-of-pearl buttons runs down on an angle at the back, adding a sweet little detail. Below that the skirt flares out quite dramatically. The front is cut a bit shorter and then it hangs far longer down the back. The inner organza is left to float separately from the top layer so as you move, you get the sense of the two layers. When you move the skirt swoops out with a ton of fabric and then falls in soft folds all the way around you when you stand. It is breathtaking. This is a stunning and rare McQueen and showcases just what a master cutter he was. Excellent condition.
The top has a lining of a pale ivory, silk chiffon, and the skirt is lined with a pale nude, pink silk organza. The top closes with a hidden set side zipper, and the skirt has buttons angled down the back from the waist. Both pieces are tagged a vintage MCQueen 44. They appear to have been worn very little if at all. The bias cut allows it some give and I have given the comfortable range of measurements below.
Top
Bust: 16-19" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 12-17" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 17-20" flat across from side seam to side seam
Total length: 23.5" from top of shoulder to hem
Skirt
Waist: 15 cancel" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 17-19 cancel cancel" flat across from side seam to side seam
Total length: 24" from waist to shortest part of the front hem, 46" to the longest point of the hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED
Item# DD4998
Reference Photos: Spring 2004 Alexander McQueen. Model Karen Elson.
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Please review all measurements carefully. More often than not, vintage garments do not fit any size category exactly. If in doubt, measure a garment of your own that fits and is a similar cut and compare it's measurements to the listed measurements below.