john galliano

Iconic Fall 1997 John Galliano "Suzy Sphinx" Runway Looks 7 & 8 Grey Schoolgirl Jacket

This is one of those instantly recognizable jackets by Galliano. On the runway he showed this jacket twice. Once with a very short, very tight, pencil skirt and then with a more pleated flared schoolgirl skirt. The two models he chose for these two looks are equally as iconic. The great Michelle Hicks was one and Kate Moss the other. The show was eclectic and mixed numerous references. Galliano told WWD that "Suzy, the naughty schoolgirl, dreams of becoming an actress and goes for an audition for a part, she gets the role and begins preparing for one of the greatest parts and actors could ever have – Cleopatra". This was one of the key looks of the show and I love that whoever ends up being the lucky person that nabs it can now have the future quest of finding either, or both, of the matching skirts.

The jacket is a definite play on a school uniform and yet it still has enough detail that it has a special feel. The sleeves are long and simple with a series of three gold metal toned buttons at each cuff. The shoulders are shaped with soft internal padding. The collar is notched and neat. The jacket closes with a series of three more of those same etched gold metal buttons that are larger versions of the ones on the cuffs. I love how all of the seaming, starting at the collar and running down the front, are edged with a yellow grosgrain ribbon and then a second slightly thinner deep burgundy grosgrain ribbon sits just inside of that. That same yellow edging also tops each of the three pockets that sit on the front of the jacket. Each pocket is stitched onto the jacket to become a design detail in itself and each is functional. This is what helps to gives the jacket its incredible detail and school uniform feel. And that unexpected pop of colour against the grey wool is fantastic. The waist is brought in a touch to add shape and then the hips flare out from under there. The jacket is in beautiful condition and is a highly collectible piece of early Galliano. Excellent condition.

Lined in a black silk and it buttons to close at the front. The front pockets are functional. The buttons on each sleeve are decorative. It appears to have been worn very little if at all. Tagged a F36, GB8, US4

Sleeves: 23" and are 12" around the upper arm
Shoulders: 15"
Bust: 17.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 15.25" flat across from side seam to side seam
Bottom hem: 18" flat across from side seam to side seam
Total length: 22" from top of the shoulder to hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-SML

Item# DD4797

Reference Photos/Video: Fall 1997 John Galliano. Models Michele Hicks & Kate Moss.

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