yves saint laurent
Documented Fall 1992 Yves Saint Laurent Black Sequin 'Le Smoking' Jacket & Silk Maxi Skirt Set
Yves play on the tuxedo and 'Le Smoking' suit is one of his most famous hallmarks. He first presented the now famous suit in 1966. His play on traditional menswear is lauded by many as 'having empowered women by giving them the option to wear clothes that were normally worn by men with influence and power'. This is a stunning example from the Rive Gauche collection of 1992. It was captured on Beverly Peele backstage at the show and you can see in that photo how stunning this is on.
This one has a full length skirt in a rich silk that beautifully balances the cut of the jacket. Yves did variations of this suit every season for both his Couture and Rive Gauche presentations and mixed the play on a men's tuxedo jacket with skirts and pants of varying lengths and cuts. They were shaped and tweaked by Yves to be immensely flattering on the female body. I love this more formal full length skirt version and the fact that you can mix and match the pieces. That combined with the sequins on the jacket make the suit feel so bold and yet still elegant and refined in feel. The jacket is tailored with a sleek cut that follows the curves of the body. It has his signature matte satin tuxedo collar. Yves produced many versions of this suit over the years but what I find remarkable is that each version is distinct in how it closes at the front and the way that the collar is shaped. This one has one over-sized faceted and glossy jet button below that amazing collar. Two flap pockets are top set on the hips and the shoulders are sharp and perfectly padded. The entire jacket except for the collar was then covered in a dense application of glossy black sequins. This catches the light and is fabulous in person. The skirt is cut in a long column of the same silk used for the collar of the jacket. It falls to the floor in a long and lean line and there are pockets hidden on each hip. His suits change the way we approach woman's wear and any example of the Le Smoking version is collectible. They are a particularly wonderful example of how strong his tailoring was and vision for a woman's place in the world. This is an important piece of fashion history. Excellent condition
Both pieces are lined in a black silk. The jacket has a single button at the front to close. The skirt has a zipper and hook & eye at the waist with pockets on each hip. Two pockets on the jacket that still have most of their original tacking to keep them closed. Padding in each shoulder It looks to have been worn very little if at all. The jacket is tagged a 36 and the skirt has no size tag present.
Jacket
Sleeves: 24"
Padded shoulders: 16"
Bust: to 18" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: to 14" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 18" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 23" from neck to hem at the front, 22 at the back
Skirt
Waist: 12.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: open
Length: 43.5" from waist to hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-SML
Item# DD3624
Reference Photo: Beverly Peele wearing Yves Saint Laurent. Photo by Roxanne Lowit, 1992. (As seen in the book "Roxanne Lowit Photographs Yves Saint Laurent".
This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.
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