Geoffrey Beene was one of the most awarded designers in the US. There is a currently an exhibit running of his work for the 2023 year titled MOVE: The Modern Cut of Geoffrey Beene. I wanted to share the exhibit notes because they sum his career so well saying 'At his core, Beene was a fashion rebel who ignored trends, instead preferring to design garments that began as geometric shapes and evolved into silhouettes that moved naturally with the human form. His intuitive understanding of the body informed fashions that were unparalleled in their combination of luxury, thoughtful design, and comfort. Beene’s colorful, imaginative creations have been recognized with many accolades, including eight Coty American Fashion Critics Awards and three Council of Fashion Designers of America Awards. His work has also been celebrated through various exhibitions at institutions across the nation.'

This was a favoured silhouette of Geoffrey Beene that he was doing primarily through the late 1980s and into the very early 1990s. When looking through some of the images from the exhibit on his work there were dresses with very similar cuts from the 1990 season. It is a very pretty dress and very striking once on. The bodice is strapless and then it is completely covered in overlapping glossy black sequins at the front. At the back it is the same silk taffeta as the rest of the dress and I love how part of that extends and wraps around to the front just under the bust. This is all attached and adds a beautiful detail that really reflects his work from this time period. The bodice is meant to be fitted and has light boning inside to hold it in place. The top of it dips in the center and peaks slightly on either side to emphasize the bust. The waist is nipped in and then from there the skirt is cut beautifully full to the hem. The silk is all gathered into the waist and this is what helps give it that shape that you see. I love the oversized floral print that covers the silk and how there are these little woven dots running over the very top of the silk. These catch the light differently and are also a subtle nod to his love if dots in his work. Inside there is a black silk lining and the edge of that lining is finished with a sequin detailed lace. This peaks out from below the curving hem of the skirt  and ties all the elements of the dress together. The dress can be worn on its own or with the matching shawl piece that is original to the dress. This extra wide shawl is caught up at each end in an elaborate twisted fabric flower that anchors it and allows it to open between for the volume you see. It can be worn numerous ways and I have photoed some of those here. You could also wear it over the head for a very glamorous look. It is so pretty. Excellent condition.

Fully lined in a fine black silk and closes with a back hidden set zipper. Ribbon finished hem. Light boning through the bodice. The shawl is unlined with no closures

Bust: 17-17.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 13.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: open
Bodice: 10.5" from top to waist
Skirt: 36" from waist to longest points of hem
Shawl: 100" x 46.5"

Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED

Item# DD4353

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This incredible dress is from the Fall 2004 Yves Saint Laurent collection and its twin walked the runway that season. With it's brilliant rose print the dress has such a joyful feel to it. And it feels very French. I am always excited to find examples of Yves' work from this time period and this one is extra special with the addition of its runway provenance. We also found video of the show so you can see how the dress moves. I love it.

The dress is exquisite and I love that you can see just how wonderful it is on the body from the runway reference photos and video that we have found for you. It is made from a light silk chiffon that weighs next to nothing. The sleeves are cut to be very full above their elastic ends and this adds to the flowing feel the dress has. I love that the sleeves are cut to sit fully off the shoulders. This allows your entire upper shoulders to show and the bare skin of your shoulders balances the length of the skirt. The bodice has a built in inner corset that holds the dress in place and gives it hidden structure. Over the inner bodice the fabric is draped into place in a series of gathers and soft pleats. This gives the illusion that the dress skims over the body rather then being so fitted underneath with the built in corseting. The very front is cut into a deep V for a little flash of skin and then he has partially hidden this with a velvet bow that joins the two sides together. The waist is nipped in and I have added a wide grosgrain ribbon for shape. If you wanted to wear it like it was shown on the runway you could easily add a more structured belt. The skirt under the waist seam is quite full and falls to the floor. It widens out as it near the ham and the soft gathers that set it around the waist give it movement as you move. Underneath the skirt is a silk chiffon underskirt in the same print and the under skirt goes to just about the knee or above depending on your height. Both that underskirt, the top printed layer and the sleeves, have a touch of transparency. It is a very subtle addition of sexiness to have these fabrics be so light and with that hint of transparency. The result is that you get a stunning bit of volume through the skirt as it flares out around you and moves when you move and then both the lower skirt and the sleeves have a touch of transparency to them so you get a suggestion of leg and arm showing. It is killer. The dress looks to have been unworn or worn very little. Excellent condition  

The built in corset acts as the lining through the bodice and it is boned and shaped. The skirt has a light silk chiffon lining in a matching fabric. The dress closes with a side set zipper on the inner corset and then the outer chiffon layer snaps into place over that. Elastic around the top of the shoulder and cuffs. The grosgrain ribbon belt is not original to the dress but will be included. It appears to have been unworn or worn very little. Tagged a YSL 42

Sleeves: approximately 25" from the drop
Inner bust: 16.5-18" flat across from side seam to side seam
Inner waist: 14" flat across from side seam to side seam
Inner hips: to 21.5 flat across from side seam to side seam
Bust: 14" from the top of the neckline to the waist
Total length: 59" from top of the neckline to hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-LRG

Item# DD4936

Reference Photo/Video: Fall 1994 Yves Saint Laurent.

All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.

I recently had another of these Valentino dresses from the Spring 1993 show in the shop and I am very happy to find another twin from the group that walked the runway that season. Valentino did a series of these dresses that were all done with this touch on a Western theme of stars on them with slightly different upper bodices. We have included photos of the runway and of video many of the pieces, including this one, so you can see how fantastic this is on the body.

The front of this dress is a solid black crepe that extends all the way down the length of the dress. Where the first one had the interest at the front, this one is all about the back. The dress is suspended from skinny straps that curve up and over the shoulders to meet at the middle of your back. The neckline plunges into a low V at the front and then it curves in at the waist. From there it falls to the floor, expanding out as it near the hem. The shape on this one is all created by long vertical seams and the bottom skirt is quite full and generous. This creates a beautiful movement as you walk. Where the straps meet at the back you have two triangles of mesh. These extend out from each side to the centre of your back. This leaves the entire back open above and below the mesh and of course you can see skin through the mesh as well. I love how this makes the body feel bare but you are still somewhat covered at the same time. At the centre of your back you see the first of the five rhinestone encrusted stars that the dress has. Another star sits at the top of each of the mesh panels and then you have the fourth and fifth star sitting at the base of each of those panels. I love that because of how the stars are placed you can clearly see them from the side as well as the back. The stars make this dress instantly recognizable as being from this collection. It is truly a fantastic piece of Valentino history. Excellent condition with a small note below.

The dress is fully lined in a black silk and closes with a side set zipper. We see a couple rhinestones missing off of the very tips of the stars. Please see the photo after the label shot for an example. Tagged a vintage Valentino 6

Bust: 16.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 12.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 19" flat across from side seam to side seam
Total length: 60" from top of shoulder to hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-SML

Item# DD4929

Reference Photos: (1-6) Spring 1993 Valentino.  /  (7) Spring 1993 Valentino Ad Campaign by Walter Chin.

All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.

In the 1980s and 1990s Gianni Versace ruled the catwalks. He was the favourite of the Supermodels and they were featured predominately in his runway shows and his ad campaigns. Versace launched his label in 1978 and by 1989 he presented a couture collection. The days that Gianni headed the label were heady, glamorous ones and set the tone for the label as we know it today. He remained at the helm until his death by assignation in 1997. Everyone wanted to own and wear a Versace. When looking for the date of the show, we found pieces with similar straps in both the 1995 and 1996 seasons.

This is a dress that is extremely simple in cut but every line is done with purpose to highlight and shape to the body. It is also a dress that really needs a body in it to truly come to life. I think it looks pretty great on my dress form but it is going to be even better once it is on an actual body. The fabric that it is made out of is light in weight and holds its shape well. It is a stretch fabric that is going to mold and shape itself around the body. That fabulously fitted shape that you see is all constructed by the bare minimum of seams needed. There is a seam that is defined by a silk satin ribbon right under the bodice. Simple little darts help to shape the bodice. The rest of the dress is as minimal as possible. Seams have been set in a curving line down each side and then there is one that runs down the back to create an hourglass shape. The waist nips in and the hips curve out following the lines of the body. The skirt falls to the floor and there are high slits on both sides of the skirt so that you get a flash of leg when you walk. The bust is fabulous in its simplicity. Straps curve up and over your shoulder and each one has a silver metal Versace Medusa medallion at the front. A subtle nod that you are wearing a Versace. The front dips down into a shallow curved V and the upper back is left bare. It is the ultimate simple and sexy dress. Excellent condition

Unlined and slips on to wear with no closures. The fabric stretches into place around you. The stretch fabric will allow it to fit a range of sizes and I have put the comfortable range of measurements below.

Bust: 15-18" flat across from side seam to side seam 
Seam under the bust: 13-16" flat across from side seam to side seam
Natural waist: 11.5-15" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 15-21" flat across from side seam to side seam
Bodice: 12" to the seam under the bust
Total length: 59" from top of shoulder to hem
Slits: 19" from hem up

Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-MED

Item# DD4931

Reference Photos: (1) Spring 1995 Versace, Look 33. Model: Helena   /  (2) Spring 1996 Versace, Look 74. Model: Linda

All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.

This spectacular dress is the twin of the dress that was worn on the runway for the Fall 1995 Karl Lagerfeld show. The dress is from Karl Lagerfeld's own label. He launched his self-named label in 1984 and by the 1990s it was firmly established. Pieces from his personal label were far edgier then the work he did for Chanel. It was a label where he explored a more avant garde feel with his designs and pushed the envelope more. This is a fantastic example of his work for that label and I love that you can see how it moves in the video we have. 

This is a fantastic dress that is made out of a mix of a light weight black net that is backed in more layers of netting and silk chiffon. Then onto that is a pattern made from black velvet fused onto the netting.  I love that the velvet is set to really highlight the cut and lines of the dress. It has a slightly more bare and fitted feel through the upper bodice and then flares and widens out very dramatically to the hem. The fabric is light in weight but the layering underneath the top layer of netting gives it enough weight and structure to hold the shape. The bust drops into a V and the velvet details on the bodice are set on angles to work into a centre vertical velvet line. This same striping runs horizontally all the way around the hem. The line that runs down the centre of the bodice extends all the way to the hem and then more vertical lines go all the way around the skirt to break up it up into panels. The waist comes in a touch, but has a more generous feel to it, and the skirt swings in a a wide A-line. At the back, the dress completely opens with a series of silk covered buttons that run from neck to just above the hem. I absolutely love this unexpected detail. I also love how he used those little bands of velvet to highlight where the buttons are set. The buttons become an integral design detail in themselves. It is a very collectible and rare dress from the earlier years of his self named label. Excellent condition.

The bodice is lined in another layer of the same netting and the skirt has three more layers of netting under the top layer and an inner nude silk chiffon layer under those. It closes at the back with the series of buttons that you see. 

Bust: to 16" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: to 13.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 22" flat across from side seam to side seam
Bodice: approx 15" from top of the shoulder to waist
Total length: 55" from top of the shoulder to hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-SML

Item# DD4926

Reference Photos/Video: Fall 1995 Karl Lagerfeld.

All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.

The twin of this spectacular dress walk the runway for Fall 1998 and Mr. Valentino obviously thought it was one of the best pieces in the show as he also used it for the ad campaign that year. It is spectacularly beautiful and like many Valentino pieces, as you get closer to it you really start to see all of the incredible details it has. He was a man who lived in the fine details on even the simplest looking pieces and this dress is a beautiful example of what he could create. It is phenomenal and I love it.

The dress is suspended by two little lace covered straps that curve up and over your shoulders. The top of the bodice is cut straight across and that continues around to the back. The bodice is covered in a layer of fine black French lace that is layered over an inner ivory silk. and then that has a layer of fine ivory netting over that. This softens the black of the lace underneath and acts as a diffusion of the black colour underneath for a more romantic feel. The bodice is simple in feel and ends at a seam set just a touch above the natural waist. A dense one inch high band of the tiniest black seed beads are set just above the seam and then the beads continue up onto that top net layer. They are scattered over the bodice and getting more spaced apart as they go upwards over you. Under that band of bead work is a dense silk eyelash fringe that sits up and off of the dress from this incredible tactile effect. More of those tiny black seed beads have been scattered throughout the fringe. I have taken several close-ups so that you can see just how incredible this workmanship is. The skirt falls under that to the floor and it is made up of three more tiers of this same lace, silk fringe, silk net and bead work. Each tier overlaps the one below it. Each has that same net overlay as the bodice but he let it sit more as a separate layer rather than an attached one like it is on the bodice. So that softening effect is greater on the skirt and it also adds a little more volume than you see through the bodice. It is very subtle but this is where he just excels in the detailing. The edge of each layer is finished in the same manner of bead work, and that ivory silk fringe. When you move all of the layers softly move around you. It is very beautiful and an exceptional piece of Valentino history. Excellent condition.

Fully lined in a white silk through the bodice and a silk crêpe through the skirt. I see a couple small layers where the lace has broken on the straps, but it's minor. Some very minor grubbiness to the edge of the inner hem. It otherwise appears to have been worn very little if at all. Tagged a vintage Valentino 8.

Bust: 17.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 15" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 21" flat across from side seam to side seam
Bodice: 15" from top of shoulder to waist
Total length: 65" from top of shoulder to hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: MED-LRG

Item# DD4924

Reference Photos: (1-3) Fall 1998 Valentino Runway Collection.  /  (4) Fall 1998 Valentino Ad Campaign.

All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.