alexander mcqueen

Gorgeous Fall 2004 Alexander McQueen 'Pantheon Ad Lecum' Runway Off Shoulder Knit Dress

This is a spectacular and rare dress from the Fall 2004 McQueen show and its twin walked the runway that season. On the runway it was shown with a sash wrapped around the hips and you could easily replicate this if you wished. It is equally as good on its own. The runway pieces were not produced in significant numbers and were often only found at the flagship stores in very limited quantities. For this collection McQueen was quoted as saying that he wanted to 'strip away all theatrics and focus purely on design'. The colours in the show focused on a nude palette and these taupe pieces were a predominant element in the collection. He also kept the embellishments to the bare minimum throughout the collection and this dress showcases that nod towards simplicity. 

The dress is made from a very fine knit jersey that has a slight sheen to it. The seams are then either surged and top stitched, or have been covered and highlighted with a silk cording. This use of the seams as a way to create design details within the dress is a very McQueen feeling signature and it really highlights the cut of the piece. The neckline on the dress is a wide ribbed panel that has a lot of stretch available to it. You could wear it up and off the shoulders but it is best worn as shown on the runway, stretched and pulled down to leave the shoulders bare and exposed. The bodice is cut to skim over you and the sleeves are long. Each sleeve has some fullness above its 4" cuff. On the runway, they pulled the cuff up and inside so you just saw the part that blouses over and not the cuffs itself. A very clever styling trick. From there it continues past the hips to the floor. If you thought the way the seams have been detailed on the bodice is pretty, the skirt is magical. There are stacked side by side peaked panels whose tops sit at different heights around the entire skirt. Each has a touch of open cut work around their seams which gives the dress more depth and detail. This piecing of the side by side panels also allows the skirt to have more of a flare at its bottom. You can see how beautifully it moves in the runway video here. It is my understanding from my client that only a limited amount of these were produced. This is an iconic piece of McQueen's history. Excellent condition with a minor note below

Fully lined in an ivory stretch lingerie type fabric and slips over the head to wear. The knit jersey has stretch and the measurements below are the comfortable range when the dress is laying flat. I see a tiny area on the knit where it misses a stitch. Please see the photo after the label shot. Tagged a McQueen 38. Any change in colour you see is just the lighting. The stretch fabric should allow it to accommodate a variety of sizes.

Sleeves: 25"
Shoulders: variable
Bust: 17-21" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 11.5-15" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 17-22" flat across from side seam to side seam 
Total length: approx 60" from the top of the natural shoulder to hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-MED

Item# DD4816

Reference Photos/Video: Fall 2004 Alexander McQueen.

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Please review all measurements carefully. More often than not, vintage garments do not fit any size category exactly. If in doubt, measure a garment of your own that fits and is a similar cut and compare it's measurements to the listed measurements below.

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