Louis Mies

Dramatic 1970s Louis MiesOff Shoulder Haute Couture Silk Dress w Hand Made Lace & Full Skirt

This dress comes to me from a client whose aunt was buying pieces from Louis Mies along with the French couture houses. Mies was a small independent couturier who did custom work for his clients to haute couture standards. He designed many pieces for the Queen of Belgium. He was one of the independent ateliers that bought the fabric directly from the couture houses for his own work and he also sold couture pieces through his salon, something certain retailers could do during this time period as long as they were authorized. We do not have any family records as to what designer this might be but the dress bears a striking similarity to some of the 1977 Valentino couture collection pieces. 

The level that this dress is made to is incredible. The fabric is a black silk taffeta and the edging is all beautiful French Chantilly lace. There are many yards of fabric used in the construction of this dress but once on the body it is all perfectly balanced. It sits off the shoulder to leave a bare expanse of skin showing. A 6" ruffle of silk wraps all the way around your shoulders and it is edged with 3.5" of lace. Hidden under that are these incredible extra wide sleeves that are also edged in lace. The bodice skims over you and the waist nips in for shape. I have added a grosgrain ribbon to add more shape and you could also wear a more structured belt. The skirt falls to the floor from there and widens out to the fullness that you see. The skirt has three layers. There is a full built-in black silk under-skirt that has wide bands of stiffened netting at the hem and then again part way up the skirt. The next layer is a black silk with two ruffled tiers at the hem edged with black lace. The final top layer sits over those and curves up at the front to meet the seam at the waist. You can tell the level of construction on the dress by some of the small details in it like the fact that there are these little ruffles that run along the seams of the inner layer even no one would ever see them. I love that. The dress is completely made by hand and I have included a couple of shots of the inner seams for you to see the amazing handwork. Excellent condition with a note below

Fully lined through the bodice in a black silk and the skirt is constructed as described above. It closes with a painted metal zipper at the back. Made by hand to couture standards. There are a couple small repairs / tiny holes on the ruffle on the neckline. There is so much fabric they get lost in the folds. Please see the final shot after the label. It otherwise looks unworn 

Bust: to 19.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 14" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: open
Bodice: 15" from top of natural shoulder to waist
Skirt: 43" from waist to hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED

Item# DD3882

Reference photos: Valentino campaign 1977 shot by Deborah Turbeville

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Please review all measurements carefully. More often than not, vintage garments do not fit any size category exactly. If in doubt, measure a garment of your own that fits and is a similar cut and compare it's measurements to the listed measurements below.

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