christian dior

Important Fall 2014 Christian Dior 'City Lights' by Raf Simons Look 21 Brilliant Blue & Orange Dress

This is a stunning Christian Dior dress by Raf Simons from the Fall 2014 collection. Its twin walk the runway for Look 21 in the show. It is also one of the most photographed pieces from that show. You will often see a more simplified version of this dress for sale but this is the twin of the actual runway dress and is a rare and special find. In the book Dior: Catwalk the write-up on the show states: "This season I wanted to propose a new woman" said Raf Simons, "A woman with power and energy in a very definitive way. I wanted to pursue powerful tailoring, to offer another reality, another function. This season is less about the leisure of the garden and more about the pace of the city. I am attracted to the reality of the urban world and environment." They also noted that these dresses were meant to be a modern play on the classic 'Bar' shape established by the original Mr. Dior. Vogue noted that it was impossible for Raf to design anything that didn't come straight from the heart and I love that sentiment. It is extremely beautiful and perfectly representative of Raf's time at the label and what his vision for Dior looked like. 

This was one of a series of dresses that were composed of two pieces. Each had a simple shift like under-dress with a more elaborate top layer that was deliberately cut so that it needs its contrasting under-dress to really makes sense. Both could potentially be worn individually but they are better and feel complete when worn together. The dresses were done in a variety of colours and this bright blue and vivid orange combination was one of my favourites. It was a favourite of the fashion crowd and was also used in the Dior campaign and shot for the Dior magazine that season. 

The silk under-dress is a simple shift shape with a scooped neckline and no sleeves. There is darting around the chest area and it comes in just slightly at the waist and then flares out a touch as near the hem. It is backed in a matching silk and the entire thing has the feel of exceptional quality. Its bright orange colour is in sharp contrast to that electric blue top layer. The over-dress that slips on over the orange shift dress is made from a combination of wool and angora. This gives it a lovely soft texture. The front curves down into a deep V that allows the under-dress to show. The waist is highlighted with a softly gathered band of the same blue. The skirt under that is incredible. It is made out of long vertical panels of the fabric and they are split or have open seams all the way around the skirt. When you walk and move the orange under-dress shows in sharp contrast against the blue. I love how the dress closes down one side at the back so you get this beautiful unbroken line above and below the waist line. At the front to one side there is a spray of coloured glass crystals and bead work that run across the front of the main split. I have taken several shots of this and you can see how it is perfectly matched on either side of the split. Phenomenal. It is an amazing example of his time at the label. Excellent condition with a minor note below.

The inner dress closes with a hidden set seam at the back and it is lined in a matching orange silk. The inner hem has ribbon seamed edges. I see perhaps a tiny touch of grubbiness around the edge of the arm hole but I am being very picky. There is a tiny spot on the front. The over-dress hooks to close at the back side waist and this piece slips over the head to wear. It is lined through the bodice in a matching blue silk and the skirt is unlined. I see slight wear to the fabric around the edges of the arm holes and perhaps the tiniest bit of change of colour along the very edge. Again, I am being very picky and both pieces present perfectly once on. Please see the photos after the label shot. Tagged a FR38, GB10, IT42, US6

Inner Dress
Bust: 16-17" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 14-15" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 18" flat across from side seam to side seam
Total length: 31.5" from top of shoulder to hem with 3" turned under the hem

Outer Dress
Bust: 17-19" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: to 15" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: open
Bodice: 15.5" from top of shoulder to waist
Total length: 46.5" from top of shoulder to hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED

Item# DD4940

Reference Photos/Video: (1-7) Fall 2014 Christian Dior, Look 21. Model Lexi Boling.  /  (8) Fall 2014 Dior Campaign by Willy Vanderperre.  /  (9) Hanne Gaby-Odiele for Dior Magazine.  /  (10) Alessandra Ambrosio for Vogue Spain, photographed by Alexi Lubomirski, November 2014.  /  (11) Olivia Palermo for HELLO! Fashion Magazine, October 2014.

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