This dress comes to me from a client whose aunt was buying pieces from Louis Mies along with the French couture houses. Mies was a small independent couturier who did custom work for his clients to haute couture standards. He designed many pieces for the Queen of Belgium. He was one of the independent ateliers that bought the fabric directly from the couture houses for his own work and he also sold couture pieces through his salon, something certain retailers could do during this time period as long as they were authorized. We do not have any family records as to what designer this might be but the dress bears a striking similarity to some of the 1977 Valentino couture collection pieces. 

The level that this dress is made to is incredible. The fabric is a black silk taffeta and the edging is all beautiful French Chantilly lace. There are many yards of fabric used in the construction of this dress but once on the body it is all perfectly balanced. It sits off the shoulder to leave a bare expanse of skin showing. A 6" ruffle of silk wraps all the way around your shoulders and it is edged with 3.5" of lace. Hidden under that are these incredible extra wide sleeves that are also edged in lace. The bodice skims over you and the waist nips in for shape. I have added a grosgrain ribbon to add more shape and you could also wear a more structured belt. The skirt falls to the floor from there and widens out to the fullness that you see. The skirt has three layers. There is a full built-in black silk under-skirt that has wide bands of stiffened netting at the hem and then again part way up the skirt. The next layer is a black silk with two ruffled tiers at the hem edged with black lace. The final top layer sits over those and curves up at the front to meet the seam at the waist. You can tell the level of construction on the dress by some of the small details in it like the fact that there are these little ruffles that run along the seams of the inner layer even no one would ever see them. I love that. The dress is completely made by hand and I have included a couple of shots of the inner seams for you to see the amazing handwork. Excellent condition with a note below

Fully lined through the bodice in a black silk and the skirt is constructed as described above. It closes with a painted metal zipper at the back. Made by hand to couture standards. There are a couple small repairs / tiny holes on the ruffle on the neckline. There is so much fabric they get lost in the folds. Please see the final shot after the label. It otherwise looks unworn 

Bust: to 19.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 14" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: open
Bodice: 15" from top of natural shoulder to waist
Skirt: 43" from waist to hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED

Item# DD3882

Reference photos: Valentino campaign 1977 shot by Deborah Turbeville

All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.

James Galanos launched Galanos Originals in 1951. He was only 27 years old.  By 1954 he had won a Coty award and the Neiman Marcus award. By 1958 he was producing clothing that could range in price from $200 to $3000, an astronomical price for ready-to-wear for that time period. When you covert to modern dollars the top end figure would be about $31,000 today. His ready-to-wear was made to couture standards and on par with the French couturiers of the time. Grace Kelly was a huge fan and his work is held in all of the major museums around the world. He is one of my personal favourites and this set is an exquisite and very special example of his work.

This set is from the estate of 1950s model Betsy Pickering Kaiser. Betsy appeared on several Vogue covers in the 1950s and it was during that time period time period that she met Galanos. They were friends for over 60 years. She collected and wore Galanos pieces her entire life and was his friend and muse. He once told her husband ‘I would rather have Betsy wear my clothes than any other woman’. She was a constant presence on the International Best Dressed List and and was added to the Best Dressed Hall of Fame in the early 1970s.

The set is made from a beautiful printed light weight silk chiffon that is combined with a red lace that has a metallic finish. The entire set combined weighs ounces. Huge flowers cover the surface of the silk chiffon. The pants are made from two layers of the chiffon and they are cut long and wide. An elastic waist makes them very easy and comfortable to wear. Layered over the pants is a long dress that is also made from two layers of silk combined with a lace for the top part. Each side of the skirt is slit right up where the top ends. This lets the top skirt billow and move around you when you walk. The bodice part is made of two panels of a metallic red lace and it is connected along each side. There is a bit of an angled V where they connect at each sire. The lace has that fantastic metallic finish to it for contrast against the pattern in the silk chiffon. The bodice has an inner nude silk lining so that from a distance you look like you are wearing nothing underneath it. The top is suspended by four tiny silk straps that curve over the shoulders. Cut supermodel long in length. Excellent condition

The pants are made of two layers of silk chiffon and close with a back zipper and elastic through the waist. The outer layer is lined with a nude silk chiffon through the bodice and the skirt is made from two layers of the silk. The outer layer closes at the side with hidden fabric covered snaps. There are a couple of very minor repairs and light snags near the hem of the overlay. It is unlabelled but is a custom piece made for Betsy and came from her estate. 

Over dress
Bust: to 18" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: to 17" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: open
Bodice: 19" from the top of the shoulder to the seam under the lace edge
Total length: 62" from shoulder to hem

Pants
Elastic waist: 15-18" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 21" flat across from side seam to side seam
Pant: 45" from waist to hem
Inseam: 32" from inner seam to hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: MED-LRG

Item# DD2278

All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.

In 1952, Givenchy founded his namesake house on Rue Alfred de Vigny in Paris and quickly rose to fame as one of the grand couturiers. 16 years later for the 1968-69 season, he added a ready-to-wear line of clothing and accessories called 'Givenchy Nouvelle Boutique'. The line was initially sold in the United States exclusively through Bergdorf Goodman stores and was eventually available at other retailers as well. The line was high end and extremely well made. He launched this line to expand his customer base and it made to appeal specifically to his non-couture clients. This label continued until 1992. This dress is a gorgeous example from the time period. I love it. 

The dress is a fantastical confection of dotted silk organza tiers that run from the top of the dress to the hem. The bodice is suspended from the shoulder with straps made of the same silk. Each strap curves over the shoulder and then the first ruffle of silk starts from around the top edge of the top. The neckline is cut fairly straight across on both the front and back. The ruffles continue down the entire length of the dress and each one gets wider than the one above it. There are eight ruffles in total and it is just spectacular. The movement that the ruffles create as you move is fantastic. The dress underneath is made from the same dotted fabric and it also follows that widening line of the dress all the way to the hem. The skirt falls to the floor in a dramatic sweep that widens out as it near the floor. This cut is incredibly easy to wear and flattering. I love how the silk ruffles move around you beautifully with the slightest movement. There is a little silk flower attached at the base of one strap that gives the dress a little extra pop of colour for the perfect finishing touch. Tons of hand finishing throughout. It is truly magical. Excellent condition with a minor note below.

Fully lined in a red silk and closes with a back set zipper and then each tier has tiny snaps to close each of the ruffles over the zipper to hide it. Tagged a vintage Givenchy 8. I see one tiny hole near the hem of one ruffle near the bottom. It otherwise appears to have been worn very little if at all. Hand finishes throughout. 

Bust: to 17" flat across from side seam to side seam
Inner seam under the bust: 15.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: to 15" flat across from side seam to side seam
Inner hips: to 17.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Total length: 58" from top of shoulder to hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-SML

Item# DD4935

All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.

The book 'Givenchy: Catwalk' says of this collection, that "after the relative exuberance of the last few seasons, this show had a more subdued feel. The simplicity of the designs encapsulated Hubert de Givenchy's constant search for refinement."  We were able to find runway photos of the dress and I love that this shows you how it was presented at the time. We have also added to the modern provenance of this dress. It is the actual dress that was worn by Nicole Ritchie in 2019. Truly superb.

This is an amazing true Haute Couture Givenchy dress that is a very rare and special find. Two things of immediate note for this dress. First is the unusual fabric. It is a silk organza that is extremely light in weight. It has all been gathered by hand into little 3D 'bubbles' that run horizontally down the entire dress in bands of three rows stacked on top of each other. The time and technique to do this would have been astounding. This unusual technique gives the dress a bit of an elastic bandeau kind of feel and a lovely movement and shape. I cannot even imagine how many hours this would have taken. The second thing of note is its weight. Because it is all made from a silk organza the dress is exceptionally light in weight which makes it quite magical. The cut is tremendously flattering to the body and it feels a little bit sexy with the way the top sits off the shoulder to leave that expanse of bare skin. The sleeves are attached to the dress but are also set off the shoulder. I have shown the dress with the little straps up and over the shoulders, but they hook into place and you can easily wear this dress as a strapless piece as Nicole did. Since we have the photos of Nicole wearing it without the straps, I only photoed it on the dress form with the straps. I love that you have the versatility of the two different ways to wear it. Inside there is a wide inner corset band that is about 6" in height and this hooks into place around you. This is what keeps the dress in place and gives it structure underneath. It is lightly boned and meant to wrap around you. There is a silk organza ruffle that goes all the way around the neckline and the top of each sleeve. Another ruffle sits at the bottom of each cuff. It is shaped to come in at the waist and then curves out over the hips. The dress was shown with a flower adorned belt on the runway, which did not come with this dress. I have added a wide grosgrain ribbon that will be sent with it instead. The bottom of the skirt is quite wide at about 20" in height. It is shaped outwards in a bell shape and this flares out around you for pretty movement as you walk. The fabric is backed in a black silk organza and the entire dress has a touch of transparency in brighter lights. It is spectacular. This is a very beautiful example of Givenchy from this time period and an amazing example of the technical skills that can be achieved in Haute Couture. It is easy to see why his work is the subject of so many books and retrospective shows at museums worldwide. Excellent condition with a minor note below.

The dress is fully lined in a matching hand set black silk organza. It zips to close at the side and then there are a series of snaps and hooks under the arm on that side as well. The inner waist corset hooks to close and has light boning all the way around. A hand set strip of velvet sits under the hooks so that they do not touch your skin. Hand finished throughout to couture standards. I see two vertical repairs on the ruffle of the neckline near the sides. There is some wear and slight fraying on both straps. There is light wear to some of the interior seams. Proper couture tag and numbered tape present. The fabric has a lot of stretch, but the inner waist corset does not. I have given the measurements of both the inside corset and the exterior of the dress because if you needed more room you could extend the inner corset.

Sleeves: 22" from the top of the ruffle to the bottom ruffle at the wrist. The upper arm is 9-12" around.
Bust: 15.5-17" flat across from side seam to side seam
Inner seam under the bust: 14-14.5" flat across from side seam to side seam. The outer fabric would go to 16"
Inner waist: 12.5" flat across from side seam to side seam. The outer fabric would go to 15"
Hips: 17-24" flat across from side seam to side seam
Total length: 54" from top of straps to hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-SML

Item# DD4930

Reference Photos: (1-3) Spring 1978 Givenchy Haute Couture.  /  (4-6) Nicole Richie in this dress, 2019.

All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.

John Bates founded the Jean Varon label in 1960 and it quickly became known for the futuristic designs and innovative use of fabrics. He dressed Dianna Rigg portraying Emma Peel in the 1965 season of the action TV series 'The Avengers' and that helped bring him even more commercial success. By the late sixties and into the seventies his work tended more towards more floating, feminine designs. Some of the very best pieces were made during this time period. His more caftan feeling dresses in particular are fabulous and they are some of my favourites to find. This one with its dramatic sleeves and plunge front is fantastic. 

The cut of this dress is spectacular. The fabric is a rust clay coloured silk that is very light in weight and drapes beautifully once on. There are two secondary patterns woven into the fabric and this gives it a little pop that I love. The border on the neck line, around the waist, the bottom of the sleeves, and all the way around the hem have a square check design worked into them, and then the bodice and skirt have stripes. I love how he has put the stripes horizontally on the bodice to really highlight and add to the feeling of width through the sleeves and then the skirt is done the opposite way. The dress feels very sexy but in an easy to wear kind of way. It slips on and zips at the back. The top is spectacular. It is cut to skim over you to the waist. The waist is set on an upward curve and sits slightly below the bust line. The front plunges to the waist band for a gorgeous expanse of skin to show. There is space left between the two sides of the plunge and I love that little detail. The sleeves extend out from the fabric on the bodice with no side seams at all. They come out from the waist and are cut wide and straight. That makes them very full and they just sit beautifully on the body. The dress falls to the floor from there and the skirt widens out slightly as it nears the floor. It is gorgeous. Excellent condition with a minor note below

Unlined and closes at the back with a zipper. I see some tiny areas where the fabric has changed colour just very slightly. It's so minor, but I mentioned for accuracy. I could not capture it on camera.

Shoulders: no defined seam
Bust: no true side seams
Seam under the bust: to 13" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 20" flat across from side seam to side seam
Bodice: 10" from top of the shoulder to seam under the bust
Total length: 57" from top of the shoulder with just about 2" turned under the hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-SML

Item# DD4920

All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.

This is the second time I have had this dress in the shop and I love it as much now as then. It is the twin of the dress that walked the Fall 1975 runway,  it was featured in the ad campaign that year and was shot for several editorials. These really show you just how much it comes to life when worn. On the runway Yves put a gold belt on it and it was shown in the editorial without. My client told me that the belts were sold separately and it would be easy to recreate the belted look with any gold belt that suits you best. I love having such a well documented piece in the shop and it doesn't hurt that it is drop dead gorgeous.

This is a dress that is insanely sexy and bare feeling and yet that deep brown colour and minimal lines keep it feeling fresh and minimal. The dress is made out of a bias cut brown silk jersey that has amazing drape and feels easy-to-wear once on the body. The bodice has a halter style front that comes up at the centre and then gold coloured leather straps are set on a curve that goes up and over your shoulders and falls down the back to meet in the middle of the waist. The back is fully open and this bare expanse of skin is fabulous. The sides curve down on an angle to the waist. Despite its bareness it is cleverly cut so that when you have it on it stays perfectly in place. The waist has an attached wide band of the same fabric that wraps around you and hooks into place on one side. One side of the halter does the same and I have taken photos of how it closes as it is very clever. Under that the skirt flows to the floor in a sweep of silk jersey that has two tiers of it stacked on top of each other for added detail in the skirt. This gives the skirt beautiful movement when you move. It is stunning and a beautiful and very well documented piece of Yves early work. Excellent condition with a minor note below.

The dress is unlined and closes with a side zipper and then hooks for the side of the bodice and attached band at the waist. Tagged 38. There is a bit of patina on the gold painted leather. It looks like the hammer was let down and there's a very slight mark where the fold was. The lower seam is finished nicely though, so I've left it so that you have those extra inches if needed.. Hand finishes throughout and the fabric has some stretch. 

Bust: no true side seams but the front covers up to 14-17" across
Waist: 12.25" flat across from side seam to side seam
Inner hips: to 23" flat across from side seam to side seam
Bodice: 17" from top of shoulder to top of band at waist and meant to blouse over a bit
Total length: 59" from top of shoulder to hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-SML

Item# DD4921

Reference Photos: (1) 1975 Yves Saint Laurent  /  (2) Fall 1975 Yves Saint Laurent Ad   /  (3) Fall 1975 Yves Saint Laurent  /  (4) Fall 1975 Yves Saint Laurent   /  (5-7) Fall 1975 Yves Saint Laurent Runway.

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.