The twin of this dress appears in the book on Thea Porter's work that accompanied the exhibit on her work. The photo appears on page 73. The caption in the book notes that "Claudia Bruce wearing a peasant style dress in a Persian paisley print combined with Damascus fabric and a leather and feather headdress. Greeks Street, London, 1969.". It is so rare to find runway photos of her shows and to have all this extra information is fantastic. 1969 is also an interesting year to note because it is the year that she started to sell her designs at Giorgio Beverly Hills. It was said that when word got out that Thea had new things in the Girorgio boutique, women ran to be able to get a piece for themselves, they sold out that fast. This is the only one I have ever seen like this outside of that book photo. Given her extremely limited run on certain pieces it may in fact be the only other one that was made and exists. It is truly a very special piece.

The dress is a fantastic combination of fabrics and this was something that Thea excelled at. She had the ability to source these fantastic antique fabrics and then mix and match them to put them together in a way that you had never seen done before. The front panel combines a floral and paisley print with beautiful detailing between. It runs down the front in a long rectangle shape and then she curved it over the shoulders and ran another panel of it down the back. The rest of the dress is made out of a clay coloured silk organza that has a beautiful pattern hand embroidered over its surface. A little chain of white embroidery runs through that pattern for a little bit of a pop. At the end of each sleeve there is an insert of the cotton fabric. This is set in a wide band all around the cuffs with these little points running up into the sleeve. The shape of the dress is easy and comfortable to wear. It skims over the body and flares out slightly as it reaches the hem. Slits run up each side so you get a flash of leg when you walk. Each sleeve is fantastic. Each is a full and voluminous balloon type sleeve that puffs up extravagantly around each wrist. The collar on the dress is perhaps the best part. A tie loops through the front part only and for most of the shots I have tied it enough so that it scoops like it does in the runway shot. However, you can loosen the front up and that allows you to push the dress down the shoulders to expose a full expanse of bare skin across the top of the shoulders. It is phenomenal. This is a very rare example of her work and most likely you will never see one again. Excellent condition.

Unlined and slips over the head to wear. The front collar can be adjusted with the tie as described above. Each cuff has a snap to close. It appears to have been worn very little if at all. There are little bits of blue dye on the front and back panel that looks like it has run a touch but I believe this is inherent to this fabric and this may have been like that since the day it was made. I do not think it is a flaw, but rather a result of the fact that the fabric was hand screened. Tagged a vintage Thea Porter UK 10. The easy cut should allow it to fit a range of sizes.

Sleeves: approx 15" and will come up a touch when the cuff is closed. Each upper arm is 13.75" around
Shoulders: no true defined scene
Bust: to 19" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: to 18" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 22" flat across from side seam to side seam
Total length: 54.5" from top of shoulder to hem with 2" turned under the hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-SML

Item# DD4899

Reference Photos: Claudia Bruce for Thea Porter. Greek Street, London, 1969. (2) From the book Thea Porter: Bohemian Chic.

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I have had this tucked away in my archives for quite some time and it is spectacular. This is it gorgeous little dress that is easy to wear and an extremely beautiful example of her work. It has a touch of a caftan feel to it and that combined with those spectacular sleeves makes it very special piece. Of all of Thea's pieces, her caftans and the dresses that had that caftan like feel, have come to represent Thea's work like no other pieces of her clothing that she designed. Everyone who was anyone wore her work back in the day, including the great Elizabeth Taylor who was a huge fan and collector. This dress is just spectacular and a very special piece.

The dress is very beautiful and is made from a printed silk chiffon. The fabric has a swirling paisley feeling design with a black backdrop and then the print is done in a greens mixed with pops of blue. The print runs over the entire dress. The bodice has an empire cut and the front scoops low and wide. Detailing the edge of the neck and down the front is an added antique gold metal cord embellishment. This goes all the way around the neckline to the back and then runs part way down the front where it closes with hand made frog knots made of the same cording. The cording also details the seam where the sleeves are set in and more of it sit above the scalloping detail of the skirt. Thea was known to hunt antique stores and markets during her extensive travels and use what she found in her designs and this is certainly a found antique textile. The dress buttons down the front to just past the waist. There is a seam set under the bust and then the dress falls from there in a loose and easy feel. The sleeves are magnificent. They are slim through the upper arm and then from just above the elbow to the cuff they balloon out to be spectacularly full. They are not lined for the lower balloon part of each sleeve and I love the touch of transparency this creates. The rest of the dress is lined in a black silk and the chiffon over it is semi-transparent like the sleeves. This see-through quality gives the fabric depth and a floating feel over the inner lining. The final detail is that little scalloped panel that runs around the skirt above the bottom hem. It adds just a tiny touch of movement, and added detail that is lovely. This is very special and rare piece of Thea's work and it is also very beautiful. Excellent condition

Fully lined in a hand set black silk lining. It closes down the front with gold antique cord loops and knots. Each cuff hooks to close. Tagged a vintage UK 12. Finished by hand throughout. There is some patina to the cording that is a natural occurrence of its age. A tiny bit of grubbiness to the seam under each arm on the inner lining. It is spectacular

Sleeves: 26" and 11" around the upper arm
Slightly inset shoulders: 14"
Bust: 17" flat across from side seam to side seam
Seam under the bust: 14.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 21" flat across from side seam to side seam
Bodice: 10.5" from the top of the shoulder to the seam under the bust
Total length: 56" from neck to hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-SML

Item# DD4570

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This dress was designed by Belgian-born Jules-Francois Crahay, who headed the Lanvin ateliers from 1964-1984. He has been noted as one of fashion’s 'great colorists with his colorful patterns making his 1970s Lanvin designs hugel​y ​desirable and influential.' His time at the Lanvin label is one of my personal favourites for the house. I especially love the his work during the period through the late sixties and into the early 1970s. He was a genius at print and colour and he pushed the envelope in terms of using cutting edge fabrics available during this time period. He mainly used this type of fabric for his 1971-1972 collections. This is the second time I have had a version of this dress and I love it even more this time.

This Lanvin dress is gorgeous and is from the main label. I am in absolute love with it. The dress has a gorgeous colour and print combination. It is made from mixing two fabrics and both hold colour exceptionally well so the colours are still crisp bright and true. The top portion of the dress is an easy silk jersey and then the skirt is one of his signature waffle weave cottons. The sleeves are long and simple. The neckline is scooped with a slightly wide cut. The top skims over you and the back goes down in a scoop to leave a bare expanse of skin showing. The waist is seamed and I love how the skirt is set into the waist in soft gathers so that it puffs out slightly around the waist. It also has a bit of a wrap effect where one side is open down the full length, but it is fully wrapped underneath so that you are completely covered. From there the skirt falls to the floor and it widens as it nears the hem. The fabric change on the skirt gives it a touch of weight so that it holds the shape well. The pattern is the same on both fabrics and yet they look slightly different because of the change in texture. It is brilliant. This full on pattern from head to toe makes the dress instantly recognizable as a piece of his work. Excellent condition with a note below.

The bodice is unlined and the skirt is fully lined in a white silky rayon. It closes with a back zipper. I see what looks like remnants of a lining here and there along the seams of the top. I see a mark at the front. Please see the photo after the label shot. Hand finishes. The fabric of the top has some stretch. 

Sleeves: 25" and are up to 11" around the upper arm
Inset shoulders: to 14"
Bust: 16-17" flat across from side seam to side seam
Natural waist: 12-14" flat across from side seam to side seam
Seam at top of hip: 13"
Hips: to 22" flat across from side seam to side seam
Bodice: 19" from top of shoulder to seam at the top of the hip
Total length: 57" from top of shoulder to hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-SML

Item# DD4941

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James Galanos launched Galanos Originals in 1951. He was only 27 years old.  By 1954 he had won a Coty award and the Neiman Marcus award. By 1958 he was producing clothing that could range in price from $200 to $3000, an astronomical price for ready-to-wear for that time period. When you covert to modern dollars the top end figure would be about $31,000 today. His ready-to-wear was made to couture standards and on par with the French couturiers of the time. Grace Kelly was a huge fan and his work is held in all of the major museums around the world. He is one of my personal favourites and this set is an exquisite and very special example of his work.

This set is from the estate of 1950s model Betsy Pickering Kaiser. Betsy appeared on several Vogue covers in the 1950s and it was during that time period time period that she met Galanos. They were friends for over 60 years. She collected and wore Galanos pieces her entire life and was his friend and muse. He once told her husband ‘I would rather have Betsy wear my clothes than any other woman’. She was a constant presence on the International Best Dressed List and and was added to the Best Dressed Hall of Fame in the early 1970s.

The set is made from a beautiful printed light weight silk chiffon that is combined with a red lace that has a metallic finish. The entire set combined weighs ounces. Huge flowers cover the surface of the silk chiffon. The pants are made from two layers of the chiffon and they are cut long and wide. An elastic waist makes them very easy and comfortable to wear. Layered over the pants is a long dress that is also made from two layers of silk combined with a lace for the top part. Each side of the skirt is slit right up where the top ends. This lets the top skirt billow and move around you when you walk. The bodice part is made of two panels of a metallic red lace and it is connected along each side. There is a bit of an angled V where they connect at each sire. The lace has that fantastic metallic finish to it for contrast against the pattern in the silk chiffon. The bodice has an inner nude silk lining so that from a distance you look like you are wearing nothing underneath it. The top is suspended by four tiny silk straps that curve over the shoulders. Cut supermodel long in length. Excellent condition

The pants are made of two layers of silk chiffon and close with a back zipper and elastic through the waist. The outer layer is lined with a nude silk chiffon through the bodice and the skirt is made from two layers of the silk. The outer layer closes at the side with hidden fabric covered snaps. There are a couple of very minor repairs and light snags near the hem of the overlay. It is unlabelled but is a custom piece made for Betsy and came from her estate. 

Over dress
Bust: to 18" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: to 17" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: open
Bodice: 19" from the top of the shoulder to the seam under the lace edge
Total length: 62" from shoulder to hem

Pants
Elastic waist: 15-18" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 21" flat across from side seam to side seam
Pant: 45" from waist to hem
Inseam: 32" from inner seam to hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: MED-LRG

Item# DD2278

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In 1952, Givenchy founded his namesake house on Rue Alfred de Vigny in Paris and quickly rose to fame as one of the grand couturiers. 16 years later for the 1968-69 season, he added a ready-to-wear line of clothing and accessories called 'Givenchy Nouvelle Boutique'. The line was initially sold in the United States exclusively through Bergdorf Goodman stores and was eventually available at other retailers as well. The line was high end and extremely well made. He launched this line to expand his customer base and it made to appeal specifically to his non-couture clients. This label continued until 1992. This dress is a gorgeous example from the time period. I love it. 

The dress is a fantastical confection of dotted silk organza tiers that run from the top of the dress to the hem. The bodice is suspended from the shoulder with straps made of the same silk. Each strap curves over the shoulder and then the first ruffle of silk starts from around the top edge of the top. The neckline is cut fairly straight across on both the front and back. The ruffles continue down the entire length of the dress and each one gets wider than the one above it. There are eight ruffles in total and it is just spectacular. The movement that the ruffles create as you move is fantastic. The dress underneath is made from the same dotted fabric and it also follows that widening line of the dress all the way to the hem. The skirt falls to the floor in a dramatic sweep that widens out as it near the floor. This cut is incredibly easy to wear and flattering. I love how the silk ruffles move around you beautifully with the slightest movement. There is a little silk flower attached at the base of one strap that gives the dress a little extra pop of colour for the perfect finishing touch. Tons of hand finishing throughout. It is truly magical. Excellent condition with a minor note below.

Fully lined in a red silk and closes with a back set zipper and then each tier has tiny snaps to close each of the ruffles over the zipper to hide it. Tagged a vintage Givenchy 8. I see one tiny hole near the hem of one ruffle near the bottom. It otherwise appears to have been worn very little if at all. Hand finishes throughout. 

Bust: to 17" flat across from side seam to side seam
Inner seam under the bust: 15.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: to 15" flat across from side seam to side seam
Inner hips: to 17.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Total length: 58" from top of shoulder to hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-SML

Item# DD4935

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The book 'Givenchy: Catwalk' says of this collection, that "after the relative exuberance of the last few seasons, this show had a more subdued feel. The simplicity of the designs encapsulated Hubert de Givenchy's constant search for refinement."  We were able to find runway photos of the dress and I love that this shows you how it was presented at the time. We have also added to the modern provenance of this dress. It is the actual dress that was worn by Nicole Ritchie in 2019. Truly superb.

This is an amazing true Haute Couture Givenchy dress that is a very rare and special find. Two things of immediate note for this dress. First is the unusual fabric. It is a silk organza that is extremely light in weight. It has all been gathered by hand into little 3D 'bubbles' that run horizontally down the entire dress in bands of three rows stacked on top of each other. The time and technique to do this would have been astounding. This unusual technique gives the dress a bit of an elastic bandeau kind of feel and a lovely movement and shape. I cannot even imagine how many hours this would have taken. The second thing of note is its weight. Because it is all made from a silk organza the dress is exceptionally light in weight which makes it quite magical. The cut is tremendously flattering to the body and it feels a little bit sexy with the way the top sits off the shoulder to leave that expanse of bare skin. The sleeves are attached to the dress but are also set off the shoulder. I have shown the dress with the little straps up and over the shoulders, but they hook into place and you can easily wear this dress as a strapless piece as Nicole did. Since we have the photos of Nicole wearing it without the straps, I only photoed it on the dress form with the straps. I love that you have the versatility of the two different ways to wear it. Inside there is a wide inner corset band that is about 6" in height and this hooks into place around you. This is what keeps the dress in place and gives it structure underneath. It is lightly boned and meant to wrap around you. There is a silk organza ruffle that goes all the way around the neckline and the top of each sleeve. Another ruffle sits at the bottom of each cuff. It is shaped to come in at the waist and then curves out over the hips. The dress was shown with a flower adorned belt on the runway, which did not come with this dress. I have added a wide grosgrain ribbon that will be sent with it instead. The bottom of the skirt is quite wide at about 20" in height. It is shaped outwards in a bell shape and this flares out around you for pretty movement as you walk. The fabric is backed in a black silk organza and the entire dress has a touch of transparency in brighter lights. It is spectacular. This is a very beautiful example of Givenchy from this time period and an amazing example of the technical skills that can be achieved in Haute Couture. It is easy to see why his work is the subject of so many books and retrospective shows at museums worldwide. Excellent condition with a minor note below.

The dress is fully lined in a matching hand set black silk organza. It zips to close at the side and then there are a series of snaps and hooks under the arm on that side as well. The inner waist corset hooks to close and has light boning all the way around. A hand set strip of velvet sits under the hooks so that they do not touch your skin. Hand finished throughout to couture standards. I see two vertical repairs on the ruffle of the neckline near the sides. There is some wear and slight fraying on both straps. There is light wear to some of the interior seams. Proper couture tag and numbered tape present. The fabric has a lot of stretch, but the inner waist corset does not. I have given the measurements of both the inside corset and the exterior of the dress because if you needed more room you could extend the inner corset.

Sleeves: 22" from the top of the ruffle to the bottom ruffle at the wrist. The upper arm is 9-12" around.
Bust: 15.5-17" flat across from side seam to side seam
Inner seam under the bust: 14-14.5" flat across from side seam to side seam. The outer fabric would go to 16"
Inner waist: 12.5" flat across from side seam to side seam. The outer fabric would go to 15"
Hips: 17-24" flat across from side seam to side seam
Total length: 54" from top of straps to hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-SML

Item# DD4930

Reference Photos: (1-3) Spring 1978 Givenchy Haute Couture.  /  (4-6) Nicole Richie in this dress, 2019.

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John Bates founded the Jean Varon label in 1960 and it quickly became known for the futuristic designs and innovative use of fabrics. He dressed Dianna Rigg portraying Emma Peel in the 1965 season of the action TV series 'The Avengers' and that helped bring him even more commercial success. By the late sixties and into the seventies his work tended more towards more floating, feminine designs. Some of the very best pieces were made during this time period. His more caftan feeling dresses in particular are fabulous and they are some of my favourites to find. This one with its dramatic sleeves and plunge front is fantastic. 

The cut of this dress is spectacular. The fabric is a rust clay coloured silk that is very light in weight and drapes beautifully once on. There are two secondary patterns woven into the fabric and this gives it a little pop that I love. The border on the neck line, around the waist, the bottom of the sleeves, and all the way around the hem have a square check design worked into them, and then the bodice and skirt have stripes. I love how he has put the stripes horizontally on the bodice to really highlight and add to the feeling of width through the sleeves and then the skirt is done the opposite way. The dress feels very sexy but in an easy to wear kind of way. It slips on and zips at the back. The top is spectacular. It is cut to skim over you to the waist. The waist is set on an upward curve and sits slightly below the bust line. The front plunges to the waist band for a gorgeous expanse of skin to show. There is space left between the two sides of the plunge and I love that little detail. The sleeves extend out from the fabric on the bodice with no side seams at all. They come out from the waist and are cut wide and straight. That makes them very full and they just sit beautifully on the body. The dress falls to the floor from there and the skirt widens out slightly as it nears the floor. It is gorgeous. Excellent condition with a minor note below

Unlined and closes at the back with a zipper. I see some tiny areas where the fabric has changed colour just very slightly. It's so minor, but I mentioned for accuracy. I could not capture it on camera.

Shoulders: no defined seam
Bust: no true side seams
Seam under the bust: to 13" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 20" flat across from side seam to side seam
Bodice: 10" from top of the shoulder to seam under the bust
Total length: 57" from top of the shoulder with just about 2" turned under the hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-SML

Item# DD4920

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