yves saint laurent
Documented Fall 1985 Yves Saint Laurent Haute Couture Runway Look 43 Purple Over-sized Cut Tunic
I Have a Question
- The twin of this tunic walked the runway in the Fall 1985 YSL Haute Couture collection for Look 43.
- It was made under the creative direction of Yves Saint Laurent.
- This is the collection that the book 'Yves Saint Laurent: Catwalk' notes that "silence reigned during the catwalk presentation for which YSL had decided not to include music. The models processed noiselessly into the salon of the Hotel Intercontinental. This was a collection of essentials for an autumn/winter that was marked by a sobriety, simplicity and purity". French Vogue said "the woman herself was showcased in her typical Parisian elegance". The review specifically noted the use of purple balancing out the more sombre blue, brown and greys. Several variations of the shape of this tunic were shown on that runway.
- In the YSL folio that contains all the drawings from the collection we found the original sketch for the look.
- I love that it started with the scarf that matches the folio drawing and then as the model proceeded down the runway the scarf was removed and she had a fabulous jewelled choker underneath.
- Yves always cut his couture pieces so perfectly. In my opinion owning a piece of his couture work is one of the ultimate vintage acquisitions.
- It would have been made entirely by hand in the Paris atelier.
- The tunic is made from a high-end wool jersey that holds it shape and drapes beautifully.
- This is a gorgeous and versatile piece. It can be worn open and easy. layered under other pieces. or belted. I have added a simple black grosgrain ribbon around the waist for some of the photos to show you how the shape changes once belted. The ribbon is not original to the tunic but I will include it.
- The neckline is scooped and the shoulders have handmade padding underneath to hold that perfect 1980s shape.
- The top of one shoulder is detailed with three buttons and all of these buttons are functional.
- The sleeves are set wide into the body of the tunic and gathered at the top for a slight cap affect. They billow out to be very full and open all the way to the cuff. The cuffs are finished so that the sleeve gather into them. The cuffs themselves are also slightly over-sized in their diameter.
- The body of the tunic is extremely loose and easy and widens out as it nears the hem. It is intentionally made to feel over-sized. This makes it very easy to fit on a variety of body types.
- I love the seam that runs down just inside of the outer edges on both sides. These end in a curve at the hem and there is a slit on both sides. Just above the slits are hidden set pockets.
- The back has a defined seam that runs down its centre and the zipper is hidden underneath it. Once on the body it appears to have no closures.
- It is a fantastic piece of true Couture and an easy way to work in some YSL vintage magic into your wardrobe.
- The tunic is fully lined in a handset matching purple silk through the body and the sleeves are unlined. It closes with a zipper at the back. The buttons on the top of the shoulder are functional. Pockets on each side.
- There is no size tag present because it is true Couture. Please go by the measurements listed below.
- Excellent condition
Sleeves: 22.5" and they are approximately 20" around the upper arm
Shoulders: 15.25"
Bust: to 21" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: to 23" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 28" flat across from side seam to side seam
Total length: 29" from neck to hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED
Item# DD5664
Reference Photo: Fall 1985 Yves Saint Laurent Haute Couture, Look 43.
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
christian dior
Fall 1970 Christian Dior Haute Couture by Marc Bohan Minimalist Black Velvet Column Dress
I Have a Question
- This gorgeous dress is a true couture piece from the Fall 1970 Haute Couture collection.
- It was made under the creative direction of Marc Bohan.
- The book Dior:Catwalk noted that the Vogue proclaimed that "Any woman anywhere on earth would want to own these total feminine clothes"
- In the few photos that survive of pieces from this collection, it is interesting to note that he showed most of these shift dresses under capes, which would be a lovely combination even now.
- This dress would have been made entirely by hand in the Paris atelier.
- The dress is made out of a jet black silk velvet that is extremely soft to the touch and has beautiful drape.
- I love the nod to classic minimalism that the dress displays.
- Straps in a matching black velvet curve up and over your shoulders and then the front and back have just the most gentle bit of a scoop across. Just enough to take away the harshness a straight line would have.
- It skims over the bust and is cut more generously over the waist so that it falls in a perfect shift or column feel around you. If you wanted to add more shape you could easily add a belt or corded rope tie.
- It flares slightly out over the hips and then the skirt falls from there widening out as it near the hem.
- The dress closes down one side with glossy black buttons and I love the deliberate contrast in texture that it has against the black velvet. That pop of shine of the high gloss of the buttons is the perfect subtle detail against the inky texture of the velvet.
- The buttons close the dress down one side to just past the hip and then the rest of that seam is completely open all the way to the hem. When you walk, move, or sit, you get a flash of bare leg all the way up that one side. It is almost startling to have that flash of bare skin against the column of black and I love this play between elegance and sexiness.
- It is a dress that appears to be so simple in shape but every seam and line of the dress was purposefully and masterfully executed and planned.
- This is an extraordinary example of his work during this time period and it is an absolutely stunning dress.
- The dress is fully lined in a matching hand set black silk and closes at the side with the row of buttons. All of the work is done by hand to Couture standards and it has its appropriately dated couture tag present. It appears to have been worn very little at all.
- There is no size tag present because it is Couture so please go by the measurements listed below.
- Excellent condition
Bust: to 16.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: to 15" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 18.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Total length: 57" from top of shoulder to hem and the slit is 29" from the hem up to the last button.
Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED
Item# DD5655
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
nina ricci
Elegant Spring 1989 Nina Ricci by Gerard Pipart Haute Couture Runway Deep Blue Silk Dress
I Have a Question
- This is a phenomenal dress whose twin walked the runway for the Spring 1989 Nina Ricci show.
- It was made under the creative direction of Gerard Pipart.
- I love that there are runway reference photos of the dress so you can see how it will sit once on the body.
- The dress is true Couture and was completely made by hand in the Paris atelier.
- It is made out of a deep blue silk that is very high-quality and it is lined by hand in a matching blue silk chiffon.
- The shoulders have hand done padding in them for some added shape and the sleeves are set wide into the body of the dress. They narrow as they fall to the wrist and the lower part of the outside seam is gathered to create a slight ruffled feel at the cuff.
- A panel of the same silk starts at the waist of one side and sweeps up in a curve to be gathered on top of the shoulder on the opposite side. Under that the bottom skims down to the waist area.
- The waist is shaped by the fabric being gathered in at the side and the way it is cut. If you wanted to add more shape you could easily add a belt.
- The panel that starts underneath the top panel extends down past the hip and does the same sweeping over the internal skirt. It curves up to the side to form an opposite curve to the one of the bodice.
- There is one more sweeping curve formed over the lower skirt. This one matches the direction of the curve of the top part of the dress. The way that it gathered in the side gives it a little bit more of a ruffled feel then the other two.
- I love this back-and-forth sweeping feel that the dress has. It almost feels like petals of a flower as they curve over you. On the runway, each of the three spots was highlighted with a flower. If you wanted to re-create that look it would be very easy to add removable flowers set on a brooch and you could use whatever colour you chose at the three spots.
- This is a beautifully made and elegant dress of the highest possible quality given that it's true Couture.
- The dress is fully lined in handset silk organza under the panels and a blue silk through the body. It closes with a back zipper. All of the work is done by hand. It appears to have been worn very little if at all.
- There is no size tag present because it is true Couture. Please see the measurements listed below.
- Excellent condition
Sleeves: 24" and they are 17" around the upper arm
Slightly inset shoulders: 14"
Bust: to 19" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 14.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 21" flat across from side seam to side seam
Total length: 44.5" from top of shoulder to hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED
Item# DD5651
Reference Photo: Spring 1989 Nina Ricci Haute Couture.
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
philip hulitar
1950s Philip Hulitar Couture Strapless Gathered Front Champagne Ivory Silk Dress w Bow
I Have a Question
- Philip Hulitar designed from 1949 to his retirement in 1964 so his pieces fall in a very defined period of time. He was known for his sophisticated dresses and evening gowns. Shortly after the launch of his label a journalist gushed that; 'The star of a gifted designer has risen recently on the fashion horizon'. Prior to the launch of his label he was the in-house designer and head of the women's dress division for Bergdorf Goodmans for 18 years.
- I had this dress completely restored and it is absolutely gorgeous.
- The dress is made out of a rich ivory champagne coloured silk.
- The bodice is strapless and it is lightly boned to help to hold the shape once it is on the body.
- I love the little bow detail that sits on one side of the bodice to add pretty detail.
- The waist nips in and then the skirt curves out and over the hips. It widens from there to the floor in a stunning expanse of silk.
- Running down the centre of the front and also down the back are inset panels made out of the same silk. The silk has been hand gathered inside of each of those panels.
- I love how they add to the hourglass shape the dress has and it also adds an incredible detail to the dress.
- The back is cut slightly longer for a beautiful sweep of fabric as you walk.
- It is a beautiful and rare piece of 1950s couture.
- The dress is fully lined in a matching silk organza that has darkened to have a tea dyed feel to it for most of it. It closes at the back with a hand set metal zipper. Light boning through the interior bodice. I see a tiny foxing mark on one side of the outer skirt and there are minor areas of the teeniest bit of along the edges under each arm. Hand finishes throughout.
- There is no size tag present. Please go by the measurements listed below.
- Excellent condition
Bust: to 18" flat across from side seam to side seam with room to a C cup at the front
Waist: 14" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: open
Length: 53" from top of bodice to front hem and 62" to the back hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: MED-LRG
Item# DD5645
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
yves saint laurent
Divine Fall 1979 Yves Saint Laurent True Haute Couture Blue Silk Harlequin Print Dress w Ruffled Cuffs
I Have a Question
- This dress is from the Fall 1979 Haute Couture Yves Saint Laurent collection.
- It was made under the creative direction Yves Saint Laurent.
- The 1979 collection was an a homage to Picasso and Diaghilev. Yves had been to an exhibit on Picasso costume and set designs for Diaghilev's ballet Russes. At the time he told French Vogue that he had been on a different path entirely for the collection but then he saw the exhibition and "my collection took on the structure of a ballet. I embroidered on Picasso, on a slightly soft cubism, on harlequin, the Blue Period, the Pink. It's best when in inspiration comes! You no longer have any doubt, you get on with it, you feel an immense joy!"
- You can see that inspiration of the harlequin especially on the pattern of this dress. We found several runway examples where he used the same pattern and added those here. It was a significant part of the collection.
- In the YSL folio that contains all the drawings from the collection, I saw that he had to use this particular print in several colours; a golden brown, a red, a white and black, and this magnificent blue. I have also included a sketch of the dress that is closest to this particular piece. Based on the drawings in my folio, it seems that this is most likely a one off done in collaboration with the client's request.
- The dress would have been made completely by hand in the Paris atelier.
- It is made out of a beautiful fine silk that has a secondary pattern within the weave in the same blue and then it is printed with that black design leaving the blue to show between. The silk is of the highest possible grade.
- You can see the very beginnings of the classic Yves Saint Laurent sack dress to come in the cut and silhouette in this dress. These sack dresses played on volume and cut. As the years went by they got bigger and looser through the middle. This one is still on the edge of being a more loose-waist A-line.
- The collar is banded in the same silk and the silk is gathered in around it for a little added detail. The shoulders are soft and the upper portion of the sleeve is wider and set in a slight cap on the top of the shoulder. This narrows down to a cuffed wrist that ends in a ruffle made of the same silk.
- The cut through the body is loose and easy and it is almost tubular in feel with just the slightest bit of narrowing as it nears the hem.
- I love how this makes it easy to wear and that it gives you the option of wearing it loose or adding a belt to cinch it in and add shape around the waist.
- I have shot it both of those ways with an added black rope belt. The belt is not original to the dress but will be included.
- The perfect finishing touch is the little slits on either side of the skirt. These allow for movement when you move and gives you ease of walking plus a little bit of extra leg to show.
- This is a superb piece of Couture and is an early example of his work.
- The dress is unlined and slips over the head to wear with a single button at the back of the neck above a keyhole. Each cuff buttons to close. It is entirely made by hand. The appropriate Haute Couture label is present.
- There is no size tag present because it is true Couture. Please go by the measurements listed below.
- Excellent condition
Sleeves: 23.5" they are 15" around the upper arm. The neck is 13" around. The cuffs are 6" around where the button is presently but could be opened and the button moved to get 7".
Slightly inset shoulders: 14"
Bust: to 19.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: to 18.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 19" flat across from side seam to side seam
Total length: 36.5" from neck to hem. Each side slit is 9" from the hem up
Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-SML
Item# DD5644
Reference Photos: Fall 1979 Yves Saint Laurent Haute Couture.
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
christian dior
Fall 1984 Christian Dior by Marc Bohan Haute Couture Runway Black Velvet Dress w Wide Neckline
I Have a Question
- The twin of this dress walked the runway for the Fall 1984 collection
- It was made under the creative direction of Marc Bohan.
- It is also the exact dress that was worn by Krysta Rodriguez in 2023
- This is a beautiful example of the work being produced by Christian Dior in this time period.
- In the book Dior; Catwalk, the notes on the fall collection state that the collection was placed 'under the sign of opposites' and that he had looked to the work of Abstract Expressionist painter Jackson Pollock for inspiration. Pieces were adorned in drip embroidery and motifs and then he did a series of long sheath dresses that were 'accessorized with 'Pollock jewels" in jet and multi colour stones'.
- We found several photos of the twin of this dress on the runway which shows you how fabulous it is on the body.
- The dress is a true Haute Couture piece and has the appropriate numbered label intact. It would have been made completely by hand in the Paris atelier.
- The dress is made out of a soft textured silk velvet in a jet black. Using a velvet that has this added texture to it is an incredible choice as the dress catches the light in different ways as you move and it really makes it come to life.
- The cut is simple and sleek with a low front neckline that dips from an angle created over each shoulder. It slightly curves down to the centre and then the fabric is softly gathered from there to the waist.
- This leaves it with a slightly bloused over feel over the the nipped in waist.
- The sleeves are cut long and they slim down as they reach the wrists. There is a slight volume built in at the outer part of each shoulder. On the inside I see hand made silk cases that at one time had light padding in them but the padding has been removed at some point to give it a softer shape. You could easily have some padding put back in if you wanted a stronger shoulder.
- Inside the bodice is a more fitted and boned inner silk corseted piece that holds you in place while the silk velvet simply drapes softly over that outside.
- The skirt is cut to feel sleek and simple as it falls to the floor narrowing in slightly as it reaches the hem. A vent runs up the back so that you can walk.
- It is a beautiful and dramatic piece despite its simple lines.
- Fully lined in a black silk and it has a built in bodice made of black silk. The inner bodice is boned and closes with its own zipper. The exterior dress closes with a back painted metal zipper. Each sleeve has a zipper at the cuff. Tagged with the Couture #19469. Silk hand made pads that have no padding inside each shoulder as described above. I see some small flaws to the silk on either side of the zipper on the inner corset. Please see the photo after the label shot.
- There is no size tag present because it is true Couture. Please see the measurements below.
- Excellent condition
Sleeves: 24.5" and they are 12" around the upper arm
Shoulders: 15"
Bust: to 18" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 12.5-13" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 18.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Bodice: 14" from shoulder to waist
Total length: 58.5" from waist to hem with 2.5" turned under the hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED
Item# DD5624
Reference Photos: (1-3) Fall 1984 Christian Dior Couture Runway. / (4) Fall 1984 Christian Dior Couture, credit unknown. / (5-7) Krysta Rodriguez, in this dress, for the opening of Bad Cinderella on Broadway, March 2023.
This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.
pierre cardin
Exquisite 1978 Pierre Cardin Haute Couture Black Silk Chiffon Dress w Huge Balloon Sleeves
I Have a Question
- This dress is from the 1978 season.
- It was made under the creative direction of Pierre Cardin.
- The dress would have been made completely by hand in the Paris atelier.
- The dress is made out of a very high-quality black silk chiffon that is feather light in weight. It gives the dress phenomenal movement around you once on the body.
- This is a fantastic and surprisingly avant garde Haute Couture dress by Pierre Cardin that shows the breadth and depth of his talent.
- From a historical perspective it is also an interesting insight on the volume and play on proportion being done during this time period.
- The design is simple and has a minimalist feel but is still striking and dramatic. It is really a piece that will only truly come to life once on so is a bit of what I like to call a 'trust me' dress because you have to trust a bit on how phenomenal it will be.
- The neckline is squared off right to the outer edges of the shoulder on both the back in the front. The back dips down a little bit lower for more skin to show.
- You could also wear this fully off the shoulders if you wished and just have the top of the sleeves drape down the arm.
- Inside the bodice of the dress there is a strapless soft cupped bra made out of lingerie nude netting for the barest bit if support.
- The silk chiffon falls from the shoulders and skims over the bust, flows past the waist and hips and then it widens out a touch more as it nears the floor.
- The easy flowing cut of the dress makes it easy to fit and wear.
- Under the top layer of black silk chiffon there is a layer of a dark brown silk chiffon. This keeps the dress from being too transparent and at the same time it creates the illusion that the dress has more transparency than it actually does as the two colours play against each other.
- The sleeves are phenomenal. They are cut on a curve and are gathered into a piped wrist finished with a little bow made of the same piping.
- Once on they pouf and balloon out fantastically above your wrists. They are one of the most exaggerated balloon sleeves that I have ever actually seen on a dress but in the best possible way. Once on and held in place by your wrists they billow out around the arm. They are quite brilliant.
- It is an incredible dress and like many of his pieces it truly will only come to life once there is a body in it.
- It is remarkable piece of true couture and a true piece of fashion history.
- The dress is fully lined with a layer of dark brown silk chiffon. It slips on to wear and the inner bra hooks to close. It appears that a extension piece was added to the bra at some point. It would be easy to adjust the fit a bit on that if needed. I have included the measurements of the outer dress for you as well as the inner bra.
- The dress has no size tag since it is true couture. Please go by the measurements below.
- Excellent condition
Sleeves: 24" to the actual wrist and then the sleeve extends another 10" past that when hanging loose. They are 17" around the upper arm.
Inner bra: tagged 34-35B and is 15-17" flat across from side seam to side seam, the outer dress is to 17.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: to 16" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 19-20" flat across from side seam to side seam
Total length: 58" from top of shoulder to hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-MED
Item# DD5616
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
yves saint laurent
Exceptional Spring 2002/Spring 1991 Yves Saint Laurent Haute Couture Black Silk Chiffon Dress
I Have a Question
- The twin of the dress walked the Spring 2002 Yves Saint Laurent Haute Couture for Look 240.
- It was made under the creative direction of Yves Saint Laurent.
- It would've been made completely by hand in the Paris atelier.
- This was Yve's final collection ever so has significant historical importance.
- That final show was over an hour long and was presented to a room of 1500 hand picked guests. To tell the story of his decades long career there was a total of 371 garments shown that day. The presentation began at the beginning of his career and the show was a full retrospective of his work that showed a highlight of all of his creations through the decades.
- There were also a small group of 11 new items for the 2002 season included about 2/3rds of the way into the show created as the Spring 2002 couture collection. All were pieces that were based on dresses from the past but done in new colours. They were all made of weightless silk chiffon and were in a variety of colours.
- The twin of this black dress was included in that grouping and it is based on the green dress we have included a reference photo of for you here from the Spring 1991 collection.
- This blending of past and present further evoked the idea of his journey and how his designs are truly timeless no matter when they were made.
- The dress has its own special couture tag that commemorates it as being a part of this final show. It is an extremely rare and wonderful piece.
- "I have chosen today to say goodbye to the craft that I have loved so much. The next show to which I invite you, on Tuesday, 22nd January at 6 PM, at the centre of George's Pompano, will predominantly be a retrospective of my work… Some designs from the currencies will also be shown."
- The dress has a strapless bodice that is fitted to hold the dress on the body and then it falls from there to the floor in layers of weightless black silk chiffon.
- The silk of the bodice is gathered and set vertically and inside the bodice there is a full inner built-in corset that is shaped and seamed so the dress stays perfectly in place once on.
- A wide band of silk wraps underneath the breasts to the waist and there is a sash that ties in a soft bow off to one side.
- The ends of the sash trail all the way down the side to the floor and this helps to add to the beautiful movement this dress has once on.
- Below the beautiful shape through the bodice the skirt falls to the floor in a soft cascade of silk chiffon. The side of the skirt that opens is slightly longer than the other and this is a clever way to give that side of the skirt even more movement. These are the tiny details in Couture that make a dress move the exact perfect way.
- The innermost layer of silk chiffon is set all the way around you and then the other layers of the skirt are set over this and slit right up to where the waistband meets the top of the skirt on that side. So when you walk and move you are covered by that single layer of silk chiffon underneath but you are still bare underneath the transparency of the chiffon. You can see this clearly in the video as the model walks. It is very sexy.
- The layers and open side of the skirt combined with the trailing ties from the waist are then what allow the dress to move so beautifully around you when you move.
- It is absolutely perfect in every way. The workmanship is beautiful and the dress appears to have never been worn or worn very little. What a joy to have such an important dress from Yves very last collection.
- The dress is fully lined in a black silk chiffon as described above. Boning and structure through the inner bodice and it closes with a hidden set side zipper. Its proper Haute Couture tag is present.
- There is no size tag present because it is true Couture. Please see the measurements below.
- Excellent condition.
Bust: 15.5-16" flat across from side seam to side seam with an A-B cup
Seam under the bust: 14.25" flat across from side seam to side seam
Inner waist: 12-13" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: open
Bodice: 4.75" from top of bodice to seam under the bodice
Total length: 51" from top of bodice to shortest part of the hem, 54" to the longest
Modern Sizing Equivalent: XXS-XS
Item# DD5594
Reference Photos/Video: (1-3) Spring 2002 Yves Saint Laurent Couture, Look 240. / (4) From the book “Yves Saint Laurent Haute Couture: CATWALK” / (5-6) Spring 1991 Yves Saint Laurent Haute Couture. / (7-9) Spring 2002 Yves Saint Laurent Haute Couture Sketches.
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
nina ricci
1990s Nina Ricci by Gerard Pipart Haute Couture Black Off Shoulder Dress w Hand Quilted Floral Skirt
I Have a Question
- This dress best matches the look of the collections that were being done in and around the late 1980s to the early-mid 1990s.
- It was made under the creative direction of Gerard Pipart.
- The Nina Ricci brand was founded in 1932 at 20 Rue de Capucines in Paris. In 1964 Gérard Pipart succeeded Jules-François Crahay, Nina Ricci's former designer assistant, as head of the brand. Pipart, who had previously worked for Balmain, Fath, and Patou, brought a wide range of experience in all aspects of fashion to the brand.
- Over the following three decades, Pipart's couture vision 'celebrated a flamboyant woman and his ready-to-wear found a loyal following among the most stylish women of the day.' He headed the Couture division until 1998.
- This is an incredible and very beautiful piece of Haute Couture and would have been made entirely by hand in the Paris atelier.
- This dress is a masterpiece and really showcases how beautiful a piece of true couture can be. Everything about its construction goes above and beyond.
- It is made out of a black silk for the bodice with a black silk netting used for the sleeves. This is combined with top stitched silk on a dotted netting for the the top layer of the skirt.
- The bodice curves and dips across the front and then wraps around to the back. There is inner built-in structure to hold the dress in place and add shape so that it is fitted around you. The silk has been gathered into a seam running vertically down the front and then it does the same thing at each side and the back. A panel wraps over the top of that across the breasts with no seam down the sides. A clever way to subtly add some extra shape and curves. It is fitted to the waist where it nips in.
- The sleeves are spectacular. I have set them slightly on top of the shoulders on my dress form but they can be worn fully off of the shoulders. There is an elastic that is tacked on their insides to help hold them in the spot that you choose to wear them. I love that you can wear them higher up or wear them completely off the shoulders so that you get that gorgeous expanse of bare skin across the top. They are made from layers of silk netting that have been gathered tightly and stacked on top of each other to form the gorgeous bit of fluff and volume that you see.
- The skirt is just extraordinary. It is very full and voluminous as it curves outward and down to the floor. To achieve that shape there is elaborate layers of built-in underskirts that is all hidden. The very top layer is made out of a black dotted net. Onto that are beautiful sprays of flowers and leaves.
- These have been created by a hand cut outs of silk in pink, purple and white that were hand applied to the netting. Top stitching in a black thread is done onto each piece to create the illusion of flowers and leafs. All of the top stitching is entirely done by hand and I cannot even imagine the hours this would have taken to complete.
- That very top layer has an attached inner layer of silk organza and the way that it is attached gives it a bit of volume and air between the top layer and that underlying organza.
- Underneath that are six layers of tulle stacked on top of each other. All of those layers are what gives the skirt the support needed to hold its volume and shape. We have not added any crinolines under the skirt. All of the volume is created because of the brilliant infrastructure underneath. If you had the underskirts lightly starched when pressed in the future it would give an added boost and you could create even more fullness.
- As good as it looks here in the photos it is even better in person.
- The dress is fully lined in a handset cotton muslin through the bodice and closes with a back set zipper. An inner waist stay hooks to close. There is hidden boning and support through the bodice. I see two small repairs along the edge of the hem. It is minor but mentioned for accuracy.
- The proper Haute Couture label is present.
- There is no size tag since it is a couture piece. Please go by the measurements below.
- Excellent condition
Bust: to 16" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 12-12.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: open
Bodice: 10.5" from top of bodice to waist
Total length: 54" from top of bodice to hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-SML
Item# DD5584
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
yves saint laurent
Fall 1988 Yves Saint Laurent Haute Couture Runway Look 79 Strapless Dress w Bows & Matching Cape
I Have a Question
- The twin of this dress with a brown cape walked the Haute Couture YSL runway for Fall 1998 for Look 79.
- It was made under the creative direction of Yves Saint Laurent.
- The press declared "The youthful influence has faded what remains is the enthusiasm and the desire to raise Couture to the height of art." The collection symbolized the recognition of the sacred power of the feminine. "No one is better than Yves Saint Laurent at making observations of his time."
- Both pieces have been completely made by hand in the Paris atelier and I have included a snap of the original sketch from my YSL folio.
- The dress is made out of a rich brown silk and all of the seams have been covered with hand set panels of a brown velvet. This emphasizes the structure and cut of the dress.
- At the front there are two large bows made of a green silk faille that are attached to the dress by brown velvet loops. On top of the loops are two oversized handmade buttons covered with tiny handset metallic gold finished brown sequins.
- The cape is made out of a heavy green silk faille and slips over the shoulders to wear with a little straps along the top shoulder
- The cape has a good weight because of the sheer amount of fabric in it. Bows are set all the way around the edges of the entire cape.
- The dress has a cupped and boned inner corset that closes with its own zipper. An inner waist stay hooks to close. A hidden set zipper is set under one of the side velvet panels to close the dress over the inner corset. There are some small nicks and scuffs on the silk of the lower portion of the dress starting just under the bottom bow. Please see the photos provided.
- The cape has a fair amount of marks and discolouration. This is seen primarily along the bottom of the front where many of the bows and some of the cape's fabrics have a pink stain on them. There is also a watermark that runs faintly around almost all of the cape and some yellowing here and there. One bow is missing from the bottom to the left of the centre seam but you could easily just move the bow opposite to it towards the centre and it would look fine. Some of the seams show strain and the start of splitting from hanging and the weight of the cape. Please see the photos provided.
- The overall value of the price is based primarily on the dress and the cape is just taken into account for its historical importance as part of the set.
- Both pieces have their appropriate Haute Couture tags
- The dress is in great condition with the small flaws as noted above and shown in photos and the cape is in wearable condition with its flaws noted and shown in photos.
Dress
Bust: 17.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 12.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 19.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Total length: 32" from top of bodice to hem
Cape
Total length approx 42" from neck to ends of the bows and should fit any size
Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-SML
Item# DD5579
Reference Photos/Video: (1-6) Fall 1988 Yves Saint Laurent Haute Couture. / (7-9) Fall 1988 Yves Saint Laurent Haute Couture Sketches.
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
yves saint laurent
Superb Fall 1987 Yves Saint Laurent Haute Couture Green Version of Runway Dress w Silk Bow
I Have a Question
- This amazing dress is from the Fall 1987 Haute Couture collection and is a colour variation of the ivory dress that walked the runway that season.
- It was made under the creative direction of Yves Saint Laurent.
- The dress would have been made completely by hand in the Paris atelier.
- In the book YSL:Catwalk they note about this collection that "The year 1987 was marked by the Yves Saint Laurent retrospective at the new South Wales Museum of Sydney and it was also the 25th anniversary of the Couture's first collection. L'Officiel said 'under the expert hands of the magician, the drapery falls fluidly and intangibly, like myriads of fantastic bodies'."
- As good as the dress looks in the photos the colour of the green is even better in person. The silk that it is made out of is so rich and decadent that it almost seems to have an inner glow when you see it in person.
- The dress is strapless and elaborately draped over the bodice on one side. It comes over and is gathered in to form the 'knot' of the bow that sits on the other side. On the side of the bow, a panel of fabric is draped and attached over the strapless bodice, then runs underneath the gathering, and then extends down to form the bottom loop of the bow.
- Bows were integral to the work of Yves Saint Laurent and this is a beautiful example of how he used them to manipulate the shape of the body.
- The silk of the skirt is cut in a curved panel that circles around you to the back and then back to the front to fall under the top layer of silk. When you walk or move the curved skirt at the front allows for more leg to show.
- You will note in the photos that there are the absolute minimum seams used in the dress. All of the shape and structure is created from a single bias cut piece of silk that is wrapped and shaped around you with the seams primarily along the zipper The draping and inner structure are what create the shape over you.
- Inside there is a full built-in structure to hold the dress in place around you.
- This is a remarkable example of his Couture work from this time period and it is an absolutely stunning little dress in its own right.
- The dress is lined in a matching green silk and there is a full built in boned and structured corset that holds the dress in place. Inner hooks sit at the waist and just under the bust for additional support. All of the edges of the inner hem are ribbon finished by hand. Perhaps a tiny scuff on the fabric here and there but I am being very picky. Every stitch is done by hand and it is an absolutely remarkable thing to see.
- There is no size tag present because it is true Couture. Please go by the measurements listed below.
- Excellent condition
Bust: 16" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 12.25" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 18.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Bodice: 9" from peak of bodice to inner waist
Total length: 29" from peak of bodice to hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-SML
Item# DD5581
Reference Photos: Fall 1987 Yves Saint Laurent Haute Couture.
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
jean patou
1940s Jean Patou Haute Couture Strapless Black Silk Chiffon Dress w Tiered Full Skirt
I Have a Question
- This is an exceptionally beautiful Jean Patou silk chiffon dress that is an absolute masterpiece. It is an important and early representation of both the house of Patou and the level of Haute Couture being produced during this time period.
- Jean Patou once said "Certain dressmakers desire to pass for an artist. I have one ambition: that is to have good taste." and this dress is the very epitome of that statement.
- The dress is made entirely by hand and represents countless hours of dedicated hand work within the atelier.
- It is one of the most beautiful dresses that I have had come through my hands and the photos cannot begin to convey the detail and fine work that has gone into the creation of this piece.
- It is constructed from a fine black silk chiffon and the bust is fitted with a boned and shaped interior to hold the dress around you. The upper edge of the bust has a little silk chiffon ruffle that folds over for a pretty detail.
- It cinches in at the waist and the skirt flows down on a gentle curve. The waist seam curves upwards at the centre front and then curves downward towards the hip. The back seam continues curving downwards to to create a dip at the back.
- Under this the skirt falls in a cascade of silk chiffon tiered panels. There are three in total and each one overlaps the one underneath. Hidden in between the ruffles are panels of silk organza which helps to give the dress its volume. An extra panel sits under the very lowest tier. Inside the skirt is a layer of stiffened netting.
- The skirt follows the same curve the waist seam has with the front coming up a touch and the back sweeping out behind you.
- We have not added anything under the skirts. There is room to go fuller if you wanted to add a crinoline underneath you can go as full as you wish.
- A spray of pink silk flowers and black velvet leaves run down one side of the skirt.
- This is really an extraordinary piece of early golden era Haute Couture.
- The bodice has a hand set silk lining and is boned. It closes with hand set back metal zipper. The skirt is lined as described above. I see some minor grubbiness around the hem of the interior lining. The tulle lining under the skirt is raw cut and there may be occasional little break near the hem here and there. There is light stress near the seams on the bodice around the waist area that indicate there was a belt or ribbon attached at some point. You could easily add a belt or ribbon and you would never see these. The flowers do not feel fresh. They are just tacked in place and they could be removed or replaced.
- There is no size tag present because it is Couture. Please see the measurements below.
- Excellent condition with the notes above.
Bust: 16-17" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 13.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Seam at the top of the hips: 17" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: open
Bodice: approx 12" from top of bodice to waist
Total length: 53" from top of bodice to front hem, 62" to the back hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-SML
Item# DD5578
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
nina ricci
Exceptional c.1990 Nina Ricci by Gerard Pipart Haute Couture Strapless Red & Black Silk Dress
I Have a Question
- This dress best matches the look of the collections that were being done around the 1990 time period.
- It was made under the creative direction of Gerard Pipart.
- The Nina Ricci brand was founded in 1932 at 20 Rue de Capucines in Paris. In 1964 Gérard Pipart succeeded Jules-François Crahay, Nina Ricci's former designer assistant, as head of the brand. Pipart, who had previously worked for Balmain, Fath, and Patou, brought a wide range of experience in all aspects of fashion to the brand.
- Over the following three decades, Pipart's couture vision 'celebrated a flamboyant woman and his ready-to-wear found a loyal following among the most stylish women of the day.' He headed the Couture division until 1998.
- This is an incredible and very beautiful piece of Haute Couture and would have been made entirely by hand in the Paris atelier.
- This dress is a masterpiece and really showcases how beautiful a piece of true couture can be. Everything about its construction goes above and beyond.
- The bodice and hem are made out of a red silk that has a bit of very fine ribbing through the fabric. That same fabric in a black is used for the main part of the skirt and then the band around the top of the bodice and the band around the waist are detailed with a wide black velvet ribbon.
- The bodice is strapless and curves across the front and around to the back. There is a built-in inner structure to hold the dress in place and it is fitted to the waist where it nips in.
- The way that the skirt falls is just extraordinary. It is so full and voluminous as it curves outward and down to the floor. To achieve that shape there is an elaborate built-in underskirt that is all hidden. It is made out of a stiffened net that is hidden between the outer layer and the inner silk lining.
- The silk of the skirt is set in beautiful rounded pleats in the hidden structure underneath is what gives the support needed to hold the shapes. I have not added any crinolines under the skirt - all of the shape and volume is there because of the brilliant hidden structure underneath.
- The back of the skirt is cut slightly longer then the front for a beautiful sweeping feel behind you.
- A final band of black velvet circles its way around the lower skirt, topping a wide panel made from the same red silk as the bodice.
- The contrast between the red and black is absolutely stunning. It is an exceptional piece of Couture.
- The dress is fully lined in a handset black silk and closes with a handset back zipper. An inner waist stay hooks to close. There is hidden boning through the bodice and structure through the hips as described above. I see that the zipper was let out a bit at some point and there is some grubbiness and tiny breaks along the edge of the hem. All minor but mentioned for accuracy.
- The proper Haute Couture label is present.
- There is no size tag since it is a couture piece. Please go by the measurements below.
- Excellent condition with the minor note abovewith the minor note above
Bust: 16.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 12.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: open
Bodice: 9.5" from top of bodice to waist
Total length: 52" from top of bodice to front hem, 60" to the back hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-SML
Item# DD5575
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
tiziani
Documented 1960s Tiziani Couture by Karl Lagerfeld Peach Silk Plunge Dress w Matching Feather Cape
I Have a Question
- Note that due to new customs regulations this piece can only ship to a Canadian address. If you need assistance with this please touch base.
- This is a fantastically well documented piece Tiziani couture set that dates to the 1960s.
- It would have been made under the creative direction of Karl Lagerfeld and is a very rare example of his work there especially with the amount of documentation on it.
- We have included the digital copy of the original sketch done by Karl along with photos of the dress on a model with Tiziani when it was originally produced. I do have modern photos of the dress on someone and will share those upon request.
- The inner tag on the dress is numbered and handwritten and then it has its Tiziana tag on the cape. I was told that this is the actual original sample dress and came from the archives.
- I posted a video of the dress on my Instagram back in 2023 when it was still in my personal archives. You can see that here and it speaks more about its history and you can see the dress on video.
- The dress is made out of a peach silk chiffon that is heavily embellished around the V neckline. The coat is made out of a slightly deeper coral peach silk that is completely covered in hand dyed soft peach feathers.
- The dress has a V at the front and the neckline has a band of embellishment that mixes silver tube beads, peach embroidery, sequins and seed beads, with prong set rhinestones. This follows the neckline at the front and then runs across the top of each shoulder. At the back it creates a wide band across the upper shoulders.
- It skims over the bust to a higher set waist seam. From there it skims over the hips and the skirt falls to the floor widening out slightly as it goes.
- The dress is fully lined in a matching peach silk and it is entirely made by hand with all of the inner stitches finished by hand. This would be considered Alta Moda couture with its level of finishes
- The cape sits over that and comes down to just past the waist at the front and then falls around you on the sides and back in this incredible sweep of hand dyed soft peach feathers.
- The feathers are all set onto a silk organza backdrop by hand and they overlap each other all the way down the length of the cape. The collar of the cape is finished with the same hand beading you see on the dress.
- Both the dress and cape are a touch paler in colour than how they shot. They are more like the colour shots added here.
- The dress is fully lined in a peach hand-finished silk and zips to close at the side. The outer layer of the bodice snaps to close over that. The cape is a single layer of silk organza with the feathers attached directly to it. The cape is also completely finished by hand. It hooks to close at the collar. There is perhaps the tiniest bit of grubbiness to the hem of the dress. Some small areas of missing embroidery / beads. Some of the organza has shattered near the top of the cape on the interior side. I have included photos here after the label shot. It can be worn as is but if you want me to have some reinforcement added you can touch base with me before I ship it and I will have my seamstress add that for you. Please see the photos after the label shot.
- There are no size tags so please go by the listed measurements below.
- Excellent condition with the note on the cape lining above.
Dress
Bust: 16-18" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 14" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 20" flat across from side seam to side seam
Bodice: 13" from top of shoulder to waist
Total length: 59.5" from top of shoulder to hem
Cape
Neck: 15.5" around
Total length: it falls to approximately 17" at the shortest point of the front and the back falls to approximately 61"
Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-MED
Item# DD5544
Reference Photos: (1) Sketch by Karl Lagerfeld for Tiziani, 1960s. / (2-4) Model in Tiziani, 1960s. Credit unknown. / (5-7) Photos from the client of this set.
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
jacques fath
Incredible 1953 Jacques Fath Haute Couture Leopard Printed Silk Strapless Dress w Full Skirt
I Have a Question
- This is an incredible and rare true Haute Couture dress whose pattern remarkably resembles a sketch we found from his 1953 collection.
- It was made under the creative direction of couturier Jaques Fath.
- Jacques Fath showed his first collection of just twenty garments in the spring of 1937. It was well received and he steadily built a strong clientele to become of of the busiest ateliers in Paris.
- Fath is considered to be part of the 'big three' post-war Parisian designers, along with Dior and Balmain. The Fath label was shuttered in 1957 after Fath's death three years earlier. One of his signature looks was a strapless hourglass silhouette. The dress is gorgeous and a beautiful and rare example of his work during this time period.
- It would have been completely made by hand in the Paris atelier.
- The fabric is a stunning silk that has a pattern suggested of an animal print running over its entire surface. This has been done in an ivory with shades of charcoal grey. Worked into the pattern is a subtle muted gold metallic thread.
- The dress is strapless and curves up on the bodice. There is a black silk inner panel that is set behind the front panels that you see here. This let those front panels sit slightly off of the body and create the illusion of more bust.
- The fabric is gathered in along an angled seam under that to a wide band that defines the waist. I love how there is a bit of the same black silk that peeks out along one edge to tie all of the elements of the bodice together.
- The waist is cinched in and to achieve that beautiful hour glass silhouette there is a full built-in boned couture corset attached to the inside of the bodice. I have taken photos so you can see how beautifully and intricately this is constructed.
- From there the skirt expands outward over the hips and curves beautifully down to the floor. The front has a slightly more sleek feel to it and then the back has added fabric built into it down the centre so that you get a beautiful soft fullness there. It is cut slightly longer at the back to help to add to that feel of more fullness there. If you really wanted the skirt to be very full you could add an underskirt. There is more than enough room.
- It is an absolute extraordinarily beautiful early Couture peace from the most magical era of Couture.
- The skirt is backed with a netting and there is a built-in boned corset. It closes with a back zipper and an inner waist stay hooks to close. There is light discolouration to the inner corset. At some point, someone added fabric tape over some small holes in the netting of the interior skirt and I see some tiny ones without tape. None of this shows on the exterior. There is light fraying on part of the front hem. Please see the photos after the label shot. All of the interior work is done completely by hand to Couture standards.
- No size tag is present so please go by the measurements listed below.
- Excellent overall condition
Bust: to 16" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: to 12.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: open
Bodice: 10.5" from top of bodice to bottom seam of the 3.25" waist band
Total length: 51" from top of bodice to front hem and the back hand extends another 6" past that
Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-SML
Item# DD5531
Reference Photo: Spring 1953 Jacques Fath Haute Couture. Illustration by Pierre Simon.
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
nina ricci
Exceptional Spring 1997 Nina Ricci by Gerard Pipart Haute Couture Runway Black & White Strapless w Beaded Details
I Have a Question
- The twin of this dress walked the Spring 1997 Haute Couture collection.
- It was made under the creative direction of Gerard Pipart.
- The Nina Ricci brand was founded in 1932 at 20 Rue de Capucines in Paris. In 1964 Gérard Pipart succeeded Jules-François Crahay, Nina Ricci's former designer assistant, as head of the brand. Pipart, who had previously worked for Balmain, Fath, and Patou, brought a wide range of experience in all aspects of fashion to the brand.
- Over the following three decades, Pipart's couture vision 'celebrated a flamboyant woman and his ready-to-wear found a loyal following among the most stylish women of the day.' He headed the Couture division until 1998.
- This is an incredible and very beautiful piece of Haute Couture and would have been made entirely by hand in the Paris atelier.
- The upper portion of the dress is a strapless and structured ivory that is made out of a beautiful silk that has a slight texture.
- At the waist it changes to a black silk to create that gorgeous skirt. The silk there also has a slight texture and enough weight to hold the intended draping but without being heavy.
- Deep silver beads are placed by hand to run up from the waist over the bodice and then more beading runs down from the waist with some parts ending just past the hips. It adds the perfect amount of glitz to the dress.
- The skirt curves outward over the hips and then widens out as it nears the hem. On one side of the skirt an added panel drapes down past the hem and appears to be caught up with the handset bow that sits there. This adds a beautiful little bit of extra movement and curving line to the dress. It is a design detail that is just brilliantly executed.
- It is fully lined in a white silk through the bodice with light boning for support. Through the skirt it is lined in a black silk. It closes with a side set zipper and has an inner waist stay that hooks to close. I see the very slightest bit of grubbiness around the upper edge of the bodice that is mentioned for accuracy.
- The proper Haute Couture label is present.
- There is no size tag so please go by the measurements below.
- Excellent condition
Bust: to 16-17" flat across from side seam to side seam
Inner waist: to 13" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 18.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Bodice: 9.25" from the top of the bodice to the waist
Total length: 52.5" from the top of the bodice to the shortest point of the hem, 57" to the longest
Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-SML
Item# DD5532
Reference Photo: Spring 1997 Nina Ricci Haute Couture.
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
yves saint laurent
Fantastic Spring 1982 Yves Saint Laurent Haute Couture Runway Unlabeled Black & White Print Plunge Dress
I Have a Question
-
A magnificent dress that is the twin of the one that walked the runway for the It was made under the creative direction of Yves Saint Laurent
- The dress would have been completely made by hand in the Paris atelier.
- The famous socialite Nan Kempner owned its twin and we have included photos here so you can see how fabulous this is on the body.
- The dress is made out of a printed silk that has a black abstract pattern covering it from head to toe.
- In the book Yves Saint Laurent Haute Couture: Catwalk they tell us that for the show Yves celebrated the 20th anniversary of his Couture house. The collection emphasize small waists counterbalance by wide shoulders that accentuated narrow hips. Many of the pieces were inspired by India and the craftsmanship that was available there. You can see the inspiration in the front set crystals. He used glass crystal rhinestones that were cut specifically to mimic the type of diamonds called Polki Diamonds that often seen in Indian jewellery and have a more raw cut feel to them.
- The dress is gathered at the shoulder but the gathers are brought down more towards the front. The shoulders are soft.
- The sleeves are extremely generous through the upper arm and are set into the top of the shoulder with a series of soft pleats that give them height and volume. They narrow down to the cuff where they close with a zipper.
- The entire front of the bodice is brought down into the centre waist in a series of soft pleats with a plunge that is fairly low but not too low.
- Set in the middle of the waist is that fantastic diamond shaped applique that has the glass crystal stones mixed with black stones and black glass tube beads. This catches the light fantastically.
- The skirt is gathered up and into that diamond to mimic what is happening on the bodice. It falls to the floor from there. There is a lot of fabric in the skirt because of the front pleating but it feels like it narrows in a bit to keep the silhouette long and narrow.
- At the back it falls in a simple sheath from shoulder to hem.
- All of the inner seams are finished by hand and the entire dress is made by hand to Haute Couture standards
- The dress is unlined and closes with a side set zipper. Zipper sit at each cuff. There is some evidence that the seams at the side of the waist were let out slightly. They could easily be brought back in. I see a small mark on the back of one sleeve. The piece is unlabelled.
- No size tag is present so please go by the listed measurements below.
- Excellent condition
Sleeves: 28" and are 14" around the upper arm. They are 7" around the wrist.
Slightly inset shoulders: 14"
Bust: 16-17" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 15" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 17" flat across from side seam to side seam
Total length: 61" from neck to hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-SML
Item# DD5533
Reference Photos: (1) Spring 1982 Yves Saint Laurent Couture. / (2-6) Spring 1982 Yves Saint Laurent Couture Advance Preview. / (7) Nan Kempner in Yves Saint Laurent. / (8-10) Sketches from the YSL Folio.
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
emanuel ungaro
Fabulous Spring 1985 Emanuel Ungaro Haute Couture Runway Black Stripe Jacket & Skirt Set
I Have a Question
- This is original Haute Couture who's twin walk the runway for Spring 1985.
- The suit was made under the creative direction of Emanuel Ungaro.
- This would have been completely made by hand in the Paris atelier.
- This is a stunning two piece set done in a black on black stripe woven directly into on a fine wool / silk mix feeling fabric.
- The jacket is a classic cut of his from this time period. It features wider set strong shoulders and is meant to feel more oversized through the upper bodies.
- The entire lower portion of the jacket wraps around and over to one size creating this phenomenal dropped waist detailing that adds incredible detail all around the lower portion of the jacket.
- The front wraps over itself and hooks and snaps into place on one side at the top of the hip. There is no collar so you have a very clean feel to the upper bodice. The draping that happens around the hips is what adds all of the drama to the jacket.
- The shape at the lower front portion of the jacket is achieved by the gathering of the fabric along the side of the sea, and then into a ruffle at the front that hides where it snaps into place. This is what gives you that brilliant shape and that fantastic flare at the side. It is the kind of detail you look for in a couture piece.
- The sleeves are full through the upper arm and they come down to a more narrow cuff. The entire lower portion of the sleeve is detailed with six round gold toned, filigree buttons that have black rhinestone set into them for a little added glitz. Hidden under the buttons are a row of silk covered snapped that you can use to bring the wrist in further.
- The skirt has a band at the waist and then it is cut in a slim pencil shape to just past the knee depending on your height. A panel wraps over the front of the skirt to give the illusion of a wrapped finish that picks up on the wrap of the jacket.
- Both pieces are fully lined in a handset black silk. The jacket hooks and snaps. to close. There is an inner attached waist stay that hooks to close. The button on the sleeves are decorative with head and snaps underneath of them as photoed. The skirt closes at the side with a zipper and hooks at the waist. The shoulders have padding. All of the hand work is to Haute Couture standards throughout.
- There is no size tag present so please go by the measurements listed below
- Excellent condition
Jacket
Sleeves: 24" and are full and open through the upper arm.
Exaggerated shoulders: 17"
Bust: to 29" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 15.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Total length: 29" from neck to hem
Skirt
Waist: 16" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 21" flat across from side seam to side seam
Total length: 25" from the waist to hem with 2.5" turned under the hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: MED-LRG
Item# DD5512
Reference Photos: Spring 1985 Emanuel Ungaro Haute Couture.
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
yves saint laurent
Well Documented Spring 1983 Yves Saint Laurent Haute Couture Runway Look 53 Silk Floral Dress
I Have a Question
- The twin of this dress walked the runway as Look 53 for the Spring 1983 Haute Couture collection.
- It was made under the creative direction of Yves Saint Laurent.
- The dress would've been made entirely by hand in the Paris atelier.
- On the runway it was shown under a jacket when the model first came out and then she removed the jacket. I love that this shows you how versatile these little dresses can be.
- We also found the fabric noted in a WWD editorial and then I looked into my folio collection book and found the model number and original sketch for you to see. I have included all these reference photos for you here and it gives you a beautiful idea of how fabulous this is once on the body.
- The dress is gorgeous and Yves always cut his couture pieces so perfectly to flatter a woman's body.
- It is made out of a fine silk that has the tiniest ribbed texture running through it.
- The top is cut to skim over you and blouse over the waist. The shoulders have light padding just at their outer edges to slightly extend them outward. They are set into the bodice with gathers so that they slightly pouf above the shoulder line. The sleeves are slim and pouf out just slightly as they slim down to the zippered cuffs.
- The neckline is set wide across the collarbones and edged in a black silk band.
- The waist is seamed and we have added a black grosgrain ribbon there for shape. You can add a belt instead if you wanted a really cinched in look.
- The skirt falls under that in a simple pencil to just about the knee or above depending on your height.
- There are hidden set pockets along each hip.
- The colour of the silk is the best thing about the dress. It is a mix of a bright pink, green, blue and a deep purple set in a large floral design that runs over the entire dress.
- Truly a brilliant dress and when you see it in person you will fall in love with how good it is in person. And it is just so good on the body. A masterpiece.
- Unlined through the bodice and lined in a black silk through the skirt. All the work is done by hand to Haute Couture standards. It closes with a back zipper and two buttons at the back of the neck. An inner waist stay hooks to close. Each cuff has a hand set hidden set zipper to close. Light padding in each shoulder as described above. Completely made by hand. Proper Haute Couture numbered label present. The grosgrain ribbon is not original to the dress but will be sent with it.
- There is no size tag present because it is true Couture so please go by the measurements listed below.
- Excellent condition.
Sleeves: 22" and 13.75" around the upper arm
Slightly wide set shoulders: 16"
Bust: to 21" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 12.5-13" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 21" flat across from side seam to side seam
Bodice: 16" from top of shoulder to waist but mean to blouse a bit
Total length: 38" from top of shoulder to hem with 2" turned under
Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-SML
Item# DD5486
Reference Photos: (1-4) Spring 1983 Yves Saint Laurent Haute Couture Runway. / (5-7) Spring 1983 Yves Saint Laurent Haute Couture Advance Preview. / (8) Womens Wear Daily, February 1983.
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
givenchy
Fall 1982 Hubert de Givenchy Unlabeled Haute Couture Runway Dress w Feathers w Feather Collar
I Have a Question
- Due to new customs regulations this dress can only ship to a Canadian address. Please feel free to contact us if you have any questions about this.
- This dress is from the Fall 1982 Givenchy collection.
- It was made under the creative direction of Hubert de Givenchy.
- I believe this is the actual runway sample that walked the runway. The only photo that we have been able to find to verify its presence on the runway is one from the back but it is still a photo that shows that it is a runway piece.
- It would have been made completely by hand in the Paris atelier.
-
The dress is unlabelled and it is made by hand in the same level other of his runway samples that we have had in the shop.
- The bodice and sleeves are made from a black velvet with a flat pile finish. I love how it is cut to sit off shoulder and leave a bare expanse of skin across the top of your shoulders. Two little straps curve over the top of the shoulder to hold it perfectly in place and then the sleeves drop so your upper arm is bare.
- The neck line and the very top of each sleeve have a finish of black feathers that add an amazing feel to the dress.
- The sleeves have been tacked into place along the edge of the bodice and they have an elastic running around the top edge for an easy fit.
- The bodice comes in for shape around the waist and then curves back down to the top of the hip.
- The skirt is spectacular. It comes out from the bottom seam of the top and explodes outward around you with incredible volume
- The skirt is made out of a fine black and silver-grey striped silk that has a pretty red metallic dot woven through its surface. It is the perfect subtle touch of colour and contrast.
- The way the feathers fall around the sleeves and upper bodice is just incredible. They also create slight movements when you move. This is a superb example of his Couture abilities.
- The bodice of the dress is fully lined in a black silk and the skirt is lined with a black silk organza. It closes with a back zipper and each sleeve zippers to close at the wrist. It is finished a level appropriate to a runway sample and all of the work is by hand. It appears to have been worn very little at all.
- There is no size tag present given that it is Couture so please go by the measurements listed below.
- Excellent condition
Sleeves: 17" from their open top to the end and the elastic stretches from 8-10" around
Bust: to 16" flat across from side seam to side seam
Natural waist: to 13" flat across from side seam to side seam
Seam at the top of the hips: 16.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: open
Bodice: 14" from top of bodice to seam at the top of the hips
Total length: 59" from the top of the shoulder to the front hem and the back extends another 4 " past that. There is an additional. 5" of silk turned under the hem.
Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-SML
Item# DD5484
Reference Photo: Fall 1982 Givenchy Couture.
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
nina ricci
Ethereal Spring 1984 Nina Ricci by Gerard Pipart Haute Couture Runway Silk Chiffon Dress w Detailing
I Have a Question
- This dress is a beautiful example from Nina Ricci Haute Couture.
- It was made under the creative direction of Gerard Pipart.
- The Nina Ricci brand was founded in 1932 at 20 Rue de Capucines in Paris and quickly became one of the top couture ateliers in the world.
- In 1964 Gérard Pipart succeeded Jules-François Crahay, Nina Ricci's former designer assistant, as head of the brand. Pipart, who had previously worked for Balmain, Fath, and Patou, brought a wide range of experience in all aspects of fashion to the brand.
- Over the following three decades, Pipart's couture vision 'celebrated a flamboyant woman and his ready-to-wear found a loyal following among the most stylish women of the day.' He headed the Couture division until 1998 which makes this a dress from one of his final few seasons.
- This is an incredible and very beautiful piece of Haute Couture.
- It would have been made entirely by hand in the Paris ateliers.
- The dress is made out of layers of a deep blue bias cut silk chiffon that is feather light in weight.
- The bodice is strapless and it has an inner shaped corset that is lightly boned and shaped for light support. The top is slightly rounded above each breast and then dips down and into the centre.
- The silk chiffon has been gathered and softly draped by hand over the body from the bust to the top of the hips. The draping goes all the way around you and adds to the hourglass feel the dress has.
- The waist cinches in and the dress comes with its original matching silk sash that you can tie and style around your shoulders or neck.
- The skirt flows out from under there and it is made up of yards and yards of weightless silk chiffon that is all cut on the bias. The layers of chiffon create the most phenomenal movement as they float over each other.
- I love that added bit of glamour from the beautiful band of glass crystals, silver tube beads and silver sequins that run from the centre of the bust and then curve down and over one hip. It is like an added bit of jewellery to the dress and just beautiful.
- The bodice of the dress is fully lined in a hand set blue silk. The skirt has an inner layer of silk under the top layers of bias cut silk chiffon. The bodice is shaped and lightly boned inside with softly shaped cups. It closes with a hand set back zipper. The dress is entirely made by hand with its proper Haute Couture tag present. There are a couple of tiny repairs and tiny areas of thinning/pinholes here and there in the skirt. There is so much fabric you do not see them but this is mentioned for accuracy. Please see the photos after the label shot.
- There is no size tag present as it is true Haute Couture so please go by the measurements listed below.
- Excellent condition with the minor note above.
Bust: 14.5-15" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: to 12" flat across from side seam to side seam
Seam at the top of the hips: 17.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Bodice: 17" from top of bodice to the seam at the top of the hips
Total length: 44" from top of bodice to shortest point of the front hem and 56" to the back hem
Scarf: approx 20" x 80"
Modern Sizing Equivalent: XXS-XS
Item# DD5468
Reference Photo: Spring 1984 Nina Ricci Haute Couture.
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
givenchy
Incredible 1980s Hubert de Givenchy Haute Couture Strapless Blue Matte Silk Dress w Velvet Bow Detailing
I Have a Question
- This is an original Givenchy Haute Couture gown whose number tag dates it to approximatelywho's number tag dates it to approximately 1985 to 1987.
- It was made under the creative direction of Hubert de Givenchy
- The dress would have been completely made by hand in the Paris atelier.
- If not for the tag inside and the number that seems to best place it in that time period we have assigned it to based on other Givenchy Couture pieces we've had in the shop, we would have absolutely thought this was a piece from the 1950s at first glance. It has all the beautiful lines you see in that golden era of Old Hollywood.
- It is made out of a deep blue matte silk that has a bit of a moire design running over its surface. It is a very unique fabric and because the dress is a couture piece it could very well have been specifically produced for this dress.
- The dress is strapless with a handmade built-in interior boned corset to hold it in place around you. It has a stay just under the bust and around the waist to hold it in place and it is lightly boned. I love the extensive hand work that you see inside that shows the high amount of detail that goes into a couture piece.
- The top of the bodice has a slate fullness to it with an added panel of fabric that wraps around the bodice that is gathered and stitched in place by hand to form soft curves and puffs.
- At the front of the bodice there is a large blue velvet bow that has been hand placed. Slightly smaller bows have been attached all the way around the skirt. The bows add a pretty and feminine detail and the contrast of the deeper blue of the velvet is the perfect highlight against the silk backdrop.
- The dress curves in at the waist and then flares out to be very full through the skirt as it falls to the floor.
- The shape through the upper portion of the dress has all been made from the immaculate piecing together of vertical panels. There are eight of them in total and each is shaped to create the curving feel over the bust and waist that you see.
- From there, the skirt curves back out over the hips to meet the first of two wide panels that make up the lower portion of the skirt and give it the volume that you see.
- Each of those panels is set into a seam attached to the panel above, and they are slightly gathered all the way around you. This ties in the feel that the very top of the bodice has and also adds to the volume of the skirt.
- Underneath that gorgeous top layer is a built-in silk underskirt. It has multiple layers of panels built-in around the hem area and more built-in just past the knee. These fall softly under the exterior skirt to help to hold its shape. The inner construction of this underscored is quite extensive and again is a nod to the meticulous detailing that you find in a true Couture piece.
- It is incredibly well made as one would expect for a piece of Couture.
- The dress has weight to it because of all the internal layers but it is balanced perfectly once on the body.
- A full built in bodice closes with its own zipper and the inner stays hook to close. Handmade light padding cups are built in at the bust. The rest of the dress is lined in layers of silk. The dress closes with a hidden set side zipper. All the work is by hand and to Haute Couture standards. The dress has its proper couture label and handwritten tape underneath in place. It looks to have been worn very little if at all.
- There is no size tag present so please go by the measurements below.
- Excellent condition
Bust: 15-16" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 12.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: open
Total length: 50.5" from top of bodice to hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-SML
Item# DD5470
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
Alexandre Vauthier
Phenomenal Fall 2011 Alexandre Vauthier Haute Couture Runway Look Hand Beaded Red Silk Chiffon Dress
I Have a Question
- The twin of this extraordinary dress walked the Fall 2011 Vauthier Haute Couture runway.
- It was made under the creative direction of Alexandre Vauthier
- Alexandre Vauthier launched his label in 2009. He started his fashion career in 1993 working for Thierry Mugler as an intern and working his way up to assistant designer to Mugler himself. In 1997 he joined Jean Paul Gaultier where he in charge of the Couture collections for the following eight years.
- He left in 2008 to open his own couture atelier showing his first collection in 2009. From 2011 to 2014 the label was a designated guest member of the Chambre Syndicale de haute couture and since December 2014 he has been a full Couture member. Vauthier departed the label in 2025 it was acquired by Revolve marking the end of the Couture division.
- This is the actual piece that was shown on the runway and may very well be the only one in existence. I love that we have both the runway reference photos and video. You can see how fantastically it moves and looks once on the body.
- The dress is made from a red silk chiffon that has an extensive and very dense application of red bead work hand applied onto it.
- Every line of the dress has been precisely cut and patterned so that it falls perfectly in the lines that he intended it to be shaped in.
- The shoulders are soft and extend into long cut sleeves that are also completely and densely beaded to match the body of the dress. In the runway photo the shoulders look slightly more shaped than the dress in person to me and I think that they may have added temporary padding to style it for the show. Adding your own is a decision that could be made once you have it in hand and try it on.
- The dress is cut to skim over the body and highlight it everywhere. The sleeves are cut a little extra long so that once on the arm they bunch up a touch. There is a cut out. opening that is left under each arm. I have photoed that so that you can see. This was probably done not only as a design choice but to allow movement and not have to worry about the bead work being constricted.
- The neckline is scooped and the dress is shaped to come in at the waist and then curves back out and around the hips so that it skims perfectly over the body.
- The beadwork that sits over the sleeves and body of the dress has been done and a little sections that curve around each other and catch the light differently as you move. You can see in the video how this creates an almost flame like feel over you.
- The skirt is absolutely amazing. As the beads run down over the hips to join into the skirt they become these long flame like ribbons of bead work that extend into varying lengths down and into the skirt. The effect is absolutely beautiful and perfectly picks up on the way the beads were executed through the body of the dress.
- Under the beadwork, the skirt is made out of a red silk chiffon that is very light and weight. It curves slightly up at the front and then extends out into two angled points at the back which again feels like an extension of the flame motif that the dress has.
- You can see on the runway that once very bright lights hit the skirt, it has a sense of transparency to it. That is quite extraordinary and done to highlight the bead work and add a bit of sexiness to the dress despite it full coverage. At the back it trails out past the hem to float around you as you walk.
- The dress is amazing on the body and it is just a beautiful and very sexy dress and an extraordinary little piece of true Haute Couture fashion history.
- The upper portion of the dress is lined in a silk chiffon through the body and the skirt is unlined. It closes with a hidden set back zipper and each cuff closes with a hidden set zipper. This is the actual dress that was worn on the runway and is completely made by hand. It is the original runway sample dress. The beads have been hand sewn so closely to the edges of the zipper that you do have to take care when zipping and unzipping the dress as they can catch and you can see a little bit of catching of thread and perhaps the very occasional missing bead here and there along that edge. I am being pretty picky. This was done to give the illusion that the dress has no opening. Inside the silk chiffon that was used to line the dress is very delicate and there have been some repairs made. This was probably done after the runway show to strengthen parts of the inner lining and can be typical of runway samples. I also see a touch of a mark on one arm on the inner lining, a small tear and some repairs to the silk of the lining. None of this shows through but is mentioned for accuracy and is photoed after the label shot. Some of the seam work is handed basted and this adds to the feel that this is the original sample because that is often how you see runway samples finished.
- There is no size tag present because it is Haute couture sample so please go by the measurements listed below
- Excellent condition
Sleeves: 28" and they are 9.5" around the upper arm
Shoulders: 14"
Bust: 16-16.25" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 12.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 18" flat across from side seam to side seam
Total length: 90" from neck to the very longest point at the back hem and the shortest point at the front fall to 49"
Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-SML
Item# DD5463
Reference Photos/Video: Fall 2011 Alexandre Vauthier Haute Couture.
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
Ady Couture
1982 Ady for Givenchy Haute Couture Deep Copper Gold Silk Dress w Hand Done Sequin Detailing
I Have a Question
- The dress was made by hand in the atelier of Ady Couture who was based in Lausanne Switzerland
- Ady was a couture trained seamstress and headed a team who had full permission of the Haute Couture houses she worked with to make the designs they showed in Paris for clients based in Switzerland and the surrounding areas.
- She would purchase couture fabrics from the couture houses along with the patterns. This arrangement with the couture houses was a way to work around customs during this time period and do fittings for clients unable to travel to Paris. So far we have verified that she had this arrangement with Yves Saint Laurent, Christian Dior, Givenchy and Ungaro. There may have been others but those are the four labels we have documentation on from the runway.
- This incredible Haute Couture dress came to me from the niece of the original couture client.
- The dress is an authorized copy of the 1982 Givenchy Haute Couture fdress that we have included reference photos of here. I love having the runway photos so that you can see just how amazing it is in the body.
- The dress is made from a deep copper gold silk. It is very light in weight but has enough structure to hold the stunning lines and volume of the dress. The colour of the silk is even better in person.
- The neckline is a simple scoop and the bodice skims over your curves. The sleeves are incredible. Each one is set on a curve to follow the shape of the arm in the traditional manner of dressmaking. They are set into the shoulders with a beautiful series of soft pleats so that you get a bit of volume at the shoulder. They puff out slightly around the upper arm and then narrow down at their ends.
- The waist is seamed but with a more generous feel. You can use the ribbon belt to cinch it in and add shape.
- The skirt is one of the best skirts I have seen both from a design point of view and by its level of construction. It is gathered all the way around the waist in a series of soft pleats. These puff out slightly and this little couture trick gives the illusion that the waist is smaller then it is. A seam brings the top part of the skirt inwards and then the lower part of the skirt falls to the floor from there.
- The lower portion of the skirt is made from several yards of silk so that it flares out beautifully as it falls.
- Between the two sections is a wide velvet ribbon that wraps around the seam and ties into a bow at the side. Which beautifully picks up on the bow around the waist. The silk of the skirts are lined in a silk organza to help give support but it is really the genius of the cut itself that creates the shape.
- An elaborate and intricate floral design runs across the front and back of the bodice and down each sleeve. Hand done embroidery work is combined with tiny black sequins and hand applied beads. It is some of the finest hand work I have seen.
- The skirt is gathered all the way around the waist in a series of soft pleats. These puff out slightly and this little couture trick gives the illusion that the waist is smaller then it is.
- Inside the dress is completely finished to couture standards with every seam finished by hand. I have taken some detail shots for you to see the fine workmanship inside. It is an incredible piece and absolutely beautifully made.
- The bodice is fully lined in a matching gold toned silk and the skirt is fully lined with a soft gold toned silk organza. It closes with a hand set back zipper and the skirt snaps into place with silk covered snaps over that. Hidden set zippers at each wrist. Hand finished throughout. The velvet ribbon belt is not original to the piece but is included. It appears to have been worn very little if at all. Made to Haute Couture standards with a tremendous amount of detail put into its construction. It is a slightly softer gold copper in person then how it photoed. It appears to have been worn very little if at all.
- There is no size tag present so please go by the measurements listed below
- Excellent condition
Sleeves: 26" and they are 16" around the upper arm
Slightly inset shoulders: 14"
Bust: to 19" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 15" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: open
Bodice: 15.5" from top of the shoulder to waist
Length: 58" from top of the shoulder to front hem, 61" to the back hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED
Item# DD5461
Reference Photos: Fall 1982 Givenchy Couture Runway.
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
christian dior
Spring 1980 Christian Dior by Marc Bohan Haute Couture One Shoulder Coral Red Silk Dress
I Have a Question
- The twin of the dress in white walked the runway for the Spring 1980 Haute Couture presentation
- It was made under the creative direction of Marc Bohan.
- The Spring 1980 collection was called "Return to Classism". The book Dior:Catwalk noted that the collection "focused on paired back silhouettes with defined shoulders, subtle and belted waists... "My look is one of softness and neatness." Bohan told Vogue. Vogue also noted the one shoulder necklines that were integral to the collection and that is shown so beautifully in this dress.
- This dress would have been made entirely in the Paris atelier.
- During this time period dresses with this black with white text Couture label usually denoted a custom order that was different from the presented piece on the runway. Being that the dress was shown in white on the runway this makes perfect sense.
- The dress is made out of a red silk crepe that is a colour that is flattering on most skin tones, especially with its touch of a coral undertone.
- I love the nod to classic minimalism that the dress displays.
- A single wide shoulder curves up and over your shoulder and the opening that your arm slips through begins and is set slightly off the top of the shoulder so you have just the suggestion of a sleeve. It angles down across you on both the front and the back. The opening dips slightly low on the other side leaving that entire opposite side and shoulder bare and exposed.
- It skims over the bust and blouses slightly over the seam at the waist. The silk is gathered in slightly at the waist and done so that it falls perfectly around you. If you wanted to add more shape you could easily add a belt.
- The skirt falls from there and is constructed so that it wraps over itself to one side at the front and secured in place around the waist. A deliberate gap is left open near the hem and when you walk, move or sit, you get a flash of leg. You can see how this sits so beautifully on the body from the runway reference photos.
- It is a dress that appears to be so simple in shape but every seam and line of the dress was purposefully and masterfully executed and planned.
- The dress comes with a huge rectangle of finished silk in a matching colour that can be used as a shawl or partial cape piece. It is not photoed but will be sent with the dress.
- This is an extraordinary example of his work during this time period and it is an absolutely stunning dress.
- The dress is fully lined in a matching red silk chiffon and closes at the side with a hand set zipper. An inner waist stay hooks to close. All of the work is done by hand to Couture standards. It appears to have been worn very little at all.
- There is no size tag present because it is Couture so please go by the measurements listed below.
- Excellent condition
Dress
Bust: 17.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 12.5-13" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 20" flat across from side seam to side seam
Bodice: 17.5" from top of shoulder to waist but does blouse over a bit once on
Total length: 57" from top of shoulder to hem with 2.5" turned under the ham
Shawl (not pictured)
6.8 feet wide x 9.75 feet wide
Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED
Item# DD5454
Reference Photos: Spring 1980 Christian Dior Couture.
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
madame gres
Exceptional Spring 1974 Madame Gres Haute Couture Unlabeled Documented Blue Silk Jersey Skirt & Top
I Have a Question
- This is a very rare Haute Couture Gres skirt and top hat from Spring 1974.
- It was made under the creative direction of Madame Gres.
- The documented to Spring 1974 was done through the sketch of it that we have added here.
- This is the exact set that was worn by Annabelle Wallis. I love that the photos of her show how beautiful this is once it is on. The movement even through the static photographs is phenomenal.
- Madame Gres' work has had profound effects on Haute Couture and her influence still resonates to this day. Her attention to detail, master draping techniques, and respect for the female form is unparalleled. She was known for designing and creating garments directly on her models and this became a signature of her work.
- She opened her first atelier, La Maison Alix in 1932. A partnership briefly changed the house's name to Alix Barton and then the label went to simply Alix. In 1942 she married, and the label made its last change to became Madame Gres, which was a partial anagram of Serge, her husband's first name. Her work spans over five full decades with the vast majority of it, with the exception of a short-lived RTW line begun in 1980, dedicated solely to creating Haute Couture. She is one of the greatest couturiers of our time and her pieces are very rare and hard to find.
- This Haute Couture set is exceptional. Both pieces are made from a bias cut silk jersey done in a perfect tropical sea blue that has a touch of turquoise to it. Silk jersey was one of her signature fabrics. The pleating detailing on the bodice of this set is one of her signature techniques.
- As with many of her pieces the cut and design of both pieces are simple and minimalist but with maximum impact.
- Tiny straps made from the same jersey curve over the shoulders. Under that is the incredible hand-pleated bandeau bodice. Two panels of pleated silk jersey curve around each and wrap behind you creating a curving pattern with openings between the curves all the way around.
- The silk jersey on the bands has been pleated entirely by hand with tiny little hand stitches hidden in the folds.
- It is lightly boned inside and completely made by hand. You can see all the hand work in the photos where I have shown the back. It wraps and curves over itself at the back and closes with two hidden sets of hook and eye.
- An expanse of bare skin sits between the top and the skirt. Depending on your height, the amount of skin shown between the skirt and top will vary.
- The skirt falls from the waist in a swoop of bias cut silk jersey that widens out as it nears the hem. There are yards and yards of jersey in the skirt. You really get an idea of that in the photos of Annabelle. It is quite exceptional.
- Every seam on the dress has been finished by hand. Working with a bias cut silk jersey in this manner is an incredible achievement that would have taken countless hours of handwork to complete.
- It is a work of art and very rare. It very well may be the only one that exists.
- The top is lined in a matching silk with all of the hand were clearly seen. It is lightly boned and hooks to close. The skirt hooks to close at the waist and then snaps under that. I see a bit of grubbiness on the inner lining of the top and on some of the edges of the top and the waistband of the skirt. There is the occasional tiny pull in the jersey. The straps have been reinforced. The hem of the skirt is deliberately raw. I see a couple tiny pinhead holes in the jersey of the skirt near the hem. There is so much fabric in the skirt that you would never see them but it is mentioned for accuracy. The dress is unlabelled. Both pieces are finished to Haute Couture standards and entirely made by hand.
- There is no size tag is present because it is true Haute Couture so please go by the measurements below.
- Excellent condition
Bandeau top
Bust: best fits a 32A or 32smallB or smaller
Bottom hem: 14" flat across from side seam to side seam
Total length: approx 13" from top of shoulder to bottom
Skirt
Waist: 12" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: open
Total length: 43" from waist to hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: XXS-XS
Item# DD5425
Reference Photos: (1) Spring 1974 Madame Gres sketch from the Palais Galliera Collection. / (2-5) Annabelle Wallis in this set, 2024.
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
yves saint laurent
Spring 1986 Yves Saint Laurent Numbered Haute Couture Strapless Black Handmade Lace Dress
I Have a Question
- This amazing dress is from the Spring 1986 Haute Couture collection.
- It was made under the creative direction of Yves Saint Laurent.
- The dress would have been made completely by hand in the Paris atelier.
- The dress is made from a hand made black French corded lace and this choice in fabric gives the dress its structure and shape. This is mixed with silk satin details across the top of the bottom, around the hip, and finishing the hem.
- The bodice is strapless and is cut to curve across the front. Inside there is a full separate couture level corset that is boned and shaped to hold the dress perfectly in place around you.
- It curves in to skim over the waist and then it curves back out and over the hips. Just under the hips is an attached black silk ribbon that wraps around you and ties in a bow at the front.
- The skirt falls underneath the ribbon detailing and down to the floor. It widens out quite a bit around you for lovely movement when you move. The skirt is cut slightly longer at the back and has extra fabric for a bit of a sweeping feel behind you.
- I love how there is a matching dip at the back of the bodice that picks up on the shape of the extended back skirt. This is all done to add the illusion of length.
- As with all couture pieces, and Yves' especially, they only truly come to life once on the body. This dress looks so simple and easy but it is really a bit of an understated masterpiece in person.
- The dress is fully lined in a black silk and closes with a side set zipper. The inner corset closes with its own zipper. The corset is lightly boned through the bodice and shaped. An inner waist stay hooks to close.
- There is no size tag present since it is Haute Couture so please go by the measurements list listed below.
- Excellent condition
Bust: to 15-16.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Inner waist: to 12.25" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 18.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 50" from top of bodice to front hem, 54" to the back hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-SML
Item# DD5405
Reference Photos: (1-3) Spring 1986 Yves Saint Laurent Haute Couture. / (4-6) Spring 1986 Haute Couture Sketches. / (7) Credit Unknown. / (8) Ahn Duong for Harpers and Queen, June 1986. Photographed by David Seidner. / (9) Iman in YSL, 1986.
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
paco rabanne
Ultra Rare 1990s Paco Rabanne Haute Couture Metallic Silver & Coral Dress w Chainlink Top & Headpiece
I Have a Question
- This is a very rare Paco Rabanne Haute Couture set from the 1990s, maybe 2000s.
- It was made under the creative direction of the original Paco Rabanne.
- This is a very rare collector piece and is almost certainly the only one in existence. It most likely was a runway piece but it is very challenging to find runway documentation for his Couture shows from this time period. If we do come across it at some point, we will certainly send it to its new owner.
- The set is made up of three separate pieces and you can wear them individually or together.
- The inner dress is strapless and widens out substantially around the body as it falls, outward and down to the hem. The back is cut longer than the front so you get a fantastic swoop of fabric behind you as you walk.
- Inside, there is a built-in inner bodice to hold the dress in place. This is the only thing holding the dress in place since the fabric that lays over the inner bodice is cut to be extremely open and full as it falls down to the hem.
- The inner fabric of this piece is foiled silver fabric that has an black woven net with an orange woven applique set into the netting so that it that forms an organic pattern. This unique and innovative fabric is used for the entire dress part of the set. The fabric innovation that he was doing for his Couture shows really highlights how far he was pushing the envelope and how purely experimental his creations were.
- Slipping over the dress is a one of his signature chain-link pieces. It has a part cape / part top feel to it. It combines plastic silver links that have a rhinestone in each of their centres, with round circle loops that are hooked together, plus little orange plastic and gold pieces. All the pieces are hand linked together in a nod to his traditional metal chain link. The top drapes down over the bodice with an upwards curve at the front. At the back, it extends far longer to well past the small of the back, ending in a point that perfectly picks up on the shape of the back skirt.
- Each sleeve of the piece has been made to be very full and wide. They flare outwards at their ends and have an edging made out of with strands of the same pieces as the body of the top with an added little oval shape at their ends.
- The original hooded head piece complete the set. It is extremely rare to have the headpieces included. These were almost always made for the runway show only and is the biggest clue that this was most likely the actual sample piece. The little handwritten tag that says 49 that is attached under the label was probably the order number in the show, giving us the second clue.
- This incredible little headpiece simply slips over the head and is long enough that it covers the neck. All of the edges are finished with the same dangling embellishments you see edges of the on the top. An opening at the front allows your face to peak out but you are otherwise covered over your entire head. The beads are then all gathered into a 'knot" at the top. Once in place it gives the illusion that the headpiece and cap piece are all a singular piece of chain-link over you. It is incredible.
- The dress is completely made by hand and I believe that this is the original sample runway sample dress. Under the tag is a handmade tag that says 49 and I believe that is the Look number that would've been shown on the runway. The edges are all handed basted and this adds to the feel that this is the original sample because that is often how you see runway samples finished from this era.
-
The dress has a built-in inner corset and this is what holds the dress in place around you. This inner bodice is lightly boned and has built in cups and meant to be fitted. Because of the excessive drape of the exterior dress you would be able to add and increase the size of the inner corset and you would never see any changes on exterior nor would it have any effect. That inner piece zips to close at the back and there is an attached waist stay that hooks to close. The dress closes with a series of snaps over that. There are dappled markings on a silver interior that show through to and under the netting. I believe this is all intentional as it is evenly distributed over the fabric on the silver parts of the fabric. There are some small pulls and stressing to the netting here and there.
- There is no size tag present because it is Haute Couture. Please go by the measurements listed below.
- Excellent condition
Inner bust: 15-16" flat across from side seam to side seam
Inner waist: 11.5-12" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: open
Total length: 54" from top of bodice to the front hem and the back extends another 8" past that, with 1" turned under the entire hem.
Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-SML based on the interior corset only. The rest of the pieces are more accommodating to a greater range of sizes. Please read the notes above.
Item# DD5394
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
yves saint laurent
Exceptional Fall 1983 Yves Saint Laurent Haute Couture Runway Black Silk Wrap Dress w Bow Detail
I Have a Question
- The twin of this dress walked the runway for the Fall 1983 YSL Haute Couture collection.
- It was made under the creative direction of Yves Saint Laurent.
- The dress would have been completely made by hand in the Paris atelier
- In this collection Yves paid homage to Paris. He told French Vogue that the collection was dedicated to "the prestige of Paris, as I knew it when I first arrived… That is why it reflects many things from my youth, my first sensations when I arrived in Paris from Algeria.". The book Yves Saint Laurent: Catwalk noted that the cuts were loose and offered room to breathe. Pink and black with the two primary colours used for this season and that "the black dresses were chic and cut to perfection".
- This dress is exceptional in person and I feel like the photos are not giving it full justice. The silk is light and weight, and it has far more drape and ease than I think the photos are conveying. It is an absolutely beautiful and chic dress that needs a body to truly come to life.
- The runway photos really give you a better idea of how this dress will look like once on the body.
- The dress is made out of a light weight black silk of exceptional quality.
- The shoulders are lightly shaped and the silk has been gathered up and into the shoulders. The sleeves are cut wider where they are set into the bodice and then narrow to a zippered wrist.
- The dress wraps and snaps at the side to close and there is a built-in inner waist stay to hold it perfectly in place. This is one of his signature designs and allows the drape that you see while letting the dress stay secure. It also allows the bodice to drape beautifully over you.
- The wrap of the dress creates a V neck line at both the front and the back.
- Where the dress closes at the waist the fabric has been gathered into a black silk bow to highlight the waist area. On one side of the dress the fabric is finished with a pleating detail that opens up to create the perfect drape over the body. On the other side, it is pulled up and under the bow which lets the hem at that side have a slight curve up from the bottom.
- The dress is so well-made that I think you could wear it either way around depending on how it works best on you.
- This is an extraordinary piece of true Haute Couture by one of the greatest designers of our lifetime.
- The dress is unlined and is completely hand finished inside to Haute Couture standards. It hooks and snaps to close at the waist and inside there is a hidden set zipper and inner built-in waist stay. Each sleeve zips to close at the wrist. Light padding at the top of each shoulder.
- There is no size tag present because it is true Couture. Please go by the measurements listed below.
- Excellent condition
Sleeves: 22.5" and are 15" around the upper arm
Shoulders: approx 14-15"
Bust: approx 16-18" flat across from side seam to side seam
Inner waist: 12-13" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 20" flat across from side seam to side seam
Bodice: 14.5" from top of shoulder to waist
Total length: 56" from top of shoulder to longest point of the hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-MED
Item# DD5356
Reference Photos: Fall 1983 Yves Saint Laurent Haute Couture.
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
jean louis scherrer
Phenomenal Spring 1988 Jean Louis Scherrer Haute Couture Pink Ruffle Suit w Balloon Sleeves
I Have a Question
- The twin of this set walked the runway for the Spring 1988 Jean Louise Scherrer Haute Couture collection.
- It was made under the creative direction of Jean Louise Scherrer.
- The set would have been completely made by hand in the Paris atelier.
- I love that we have reference photos so that you can see how phenomenal this is once it is on an actual body. As good as it looks in the photos, it is even better on.
- The silk it is made out of has a soft matte moire pattern finish to it and has just enough weight to hold the intended shape.
- The hand done workmanship on both pieces is phenomenal.
- The skirt is slim cut and on the shorter side. The fabric on it has been gathered up so that it has soft gathers near the top of the hip and the bottom hem at the front. At the back it is all gathered into the centre seam.
- The brevity of the skirt is in sharp contrast with the added volume and fit of the beautiful jacket that tops it.
- The jacket has a full built-in boned inner half corset tacked into the interior that zips in place around you. The outer jacket hooks into place over that with a series of hidden set corset hooks.
- The neck line comes down in a wide squared off scoop that leaves the collar bones exposed and extends out almost to the shoulders..
- The edge of the neck line is finished with an elaborate ruffle in a matching silk. The ruffle continues down the front of the jacket and goes all the way around the hem. It is fitted through the waist and meant to have a slight feel of a peplum over the hips.
- The sleeves are incredible. Each is extremely full and they balloon out substantially over the gathered in ruffled cuffs. There is an exaggerated cuff at their ends with a bit of the same fabric wrapped and tied in knot just above the ruffle.
- Three large fabric roses are placed down the front for the perfect feminine and romantic finish.
- This would make an amazing going away suit or a suit to wear as part of your wedding weekend.
- Both pieces are fully lined in a handset pink silk. The skirt zips to close at the back and the jacket closes as described above. The pink is a slightly paler pink in person. It appears to have been worn very little if at all.
- The jacket has its proper Haute Couture numbered tag in place.
- There is no size tag present since it is true couture so please go by the measurements listed below.
- Excellent condition
Jacket
Sleeves: 20"
Slightly extended shoulders: 16" and meant to sit slightly off-shoulder
Inner bust: 16-16.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Inner waist: 12.5-13" flat across from side seam to side seam
Total length: 20.5" from neck to hem
Skirt
Waist: 12" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 17" flat across from side seam to side seam
Total length: 18" from neck to skirt
Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-SML
Item# DD5339
Reference Photos: Spring 1988 Jean Louis Scherrer Haute Couture.
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
emanuel ungaro
Fantastic Spring 1984 Emanuel Ungaro Haute Couture Black Stripe Jacket & Skirt Suit + Pink Camisole
I Have a Question
- This is original Haute Couture whose near twin walk the runway for Spring 1984.
- The suit was made under the creative direction of Emanuel Ungaro.
- This would have been completely made by hand in the Paris atelier.
- This is a stunning three piece set done in a black on black striped woven into a fine wool/silk mix feeling fabric and it comes with a matching pink silk and lace camisole.
- The jacket is a classic cut of his from this time period. It features wider set strong shoulders and is meant to feel more oversized through the upper bodice. The waist is shaped to be cinched in with a single pink dome button that sit at the front and the there is a dramatic peplum set under that. This cut is what gives you that fantastic exaggerated hourglass feel that the best of his work has.
- The front closes with that single button at the waist. The collar is done in a pastel pink silk and it is very wide and pointed and set so that it covers almost the entire upper bodice. Under that the hips flared dramatically out all the way around you.
- The shape of the bottom peplum is achieved by having the panels of the jacket shaped and cut to widen out just under the waist. This gives you those brilliant little flares but without adding extra seams. It is the kind of detail you look for in a couture piece.
- The sleeves are full through the upper arm and they come down to a more narrow cuff detailed with four of the same pale pink domed buttons that are slightly smaller than the one at the front.
- Under the jacket is a little pink silk camisole that is just exquisite.
- The camisole is made out of a lingerie weight pink bias cut silk that has hand made lace set into. Each strap that wraps over the shoulder has silk that runs through a little lattice work of netting. The top is cut fairly boxy and so is very easy to fit and wear.
- The skirt has a band at the waist and then it is cut in a slim pencil shape to just past the knee depending on your height. Pockets sit on each hip and the pockets add a little bit of shape around the upper hip.
- The jacket and skirt are fully lined in a handset black silk. The jacket buttons to close with one button at the front. The button on the sleeves are decorative. The skirt closes at the back with a zipper and hooks at the waist. The shoulders have padding. The camisole is online and slips over the head to wear. I see a tiny indentation in the fabric in one spot and there's a bit of edging missing on one part of the strap. Please see the photos after the label shot. All of the hand work is to Haute Couture standards throughout.
- There is no size tag present so please go by the measurements listed below
- Excellent condition
Jacket
Sleeves: 24" and are full and open through the upper arm.
Exaggerated shoulders: 16.5"
Bust: to 19.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 14.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Total length: 23.5" from neck to hem
Top
Bust: to 17.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 16" flat across from side seam to side seam
Bottom seam:to 19" flat across from side seam to side seam
Total length: 24.5" from neck to hem
Skirt
Waist: 13.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 21.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Total length: 26.5" from the waist to hem with 3" turned under the hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED
Item# DD5321
Reference Photo: Spring 1984 Emanuel Ungaro Haute Couture.
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
jacques heim
Exceptional 1950s Jacques Heim Golden Era Haute Couture Ultra Rare Purple-Gray Net & Handmade Lace Dress
I Have a Question
- This is an exceptional and very rare example of a Heim Haute Couture work from the late 1940s early 1950s.
- It was made under the creative direction of Jacques Heim.
- Jacques Heim began his career working at his parents fur business. In 1923 he took that business over and made it into his own vision. Heim began designing a line of made to order, in-house couture pieces that used original fabrics most notably those of Sonia Delauney. In 1930 his label became an official member of Haute Couture and his self-named label, Jacques Heim, was born. Jacques remained at the helm of his business until his death in 1967. The label closed in 1969.
- This era of Couture was known as the golden era in part because of its excellence in every aspect to the art of Couture. This dress is everything you look for in an Haute Couture dress from this time period.
- The dress is a phenomenal example of Couture and is made out of a hand dyed net and hand dyed, handmade lace.
- The dress is completely made by hand and would have been made in his Paris atelier.
- Wide straps curve up and over each shoulder and then the front neck and back are both scooped with a more shallow version at the front in a deeper one at the back. The opening across the shoulders is cut wider across so that you can wear this dress more on the outside of your shoulders and expose the collarbones.
- It skims over the bust and is shaped and meant to be slightly more fitted. From there it nips in at the waist. The dress comes with its original matching belt that is also made by hand and covered in the same net and silk as the dress. The belt is slim in its cut and highlights the waist even more.
- The skirt is truly outstanding. It is the perfect rendition of that 1950s full "New Look" feeling skirt that has come to be so associated with that era. The skirt is made from five layers of tulle that are hand dyed to this incredible soft taupey grey that has a hint of purple in its undertone. These five layers sit on top of multiple layers of inner skirting. All of the volume that you see here is created from the stocking of all those layers. I have added nothing extra underneath for these photos, though I think you could make it even fuller if you took the time to starch out every single layer.
- Onto the very top layer of netting are hand applied strips of handmade lace that have been added in vertical rows. Fees stand down and over the bodice to the waist. From there they trail down the skirt to end in various lengths. This has been done all the way around you and the final effect this creates is beautiful. It is hard to imagine the length of time this all would have taken by hand.
- The dress closes with a back metal zipper and the belt buckles to close. The inner bodice is boned for structure and all the hand work is done to Couture standards. An inner waist stay hooks to close. The skirt is made from multiple layers of netting as described above. I see a tiny bit of wear near one grommet of the buckle, one tiny repair in the netting and a faint mark on the skirt. These are all extremely minor but mentioned for accuracy.
- There is no size tag present since it is true Couture so please go by the measurements below.
- Excellent condition.
Bust: 17.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 13" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: open
Bodice: 14.5" from top of shoulder to waist
Total length: 45" from top of shoulder to hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED
Item# DD5296
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
Iconic Spring 1985 Yves Saint Laurent Haute Couture Runway Pale Green Silk Dress w Front Plunge & Tie
I Have a Question
- This amazing dress is from the Spring 1985 Haute Couture collection.
- It was made under the creative direction of Yves Saint Laurent.
- The dress would have been made completely by hand in the Paris atelier.
- On the runway the dress was shown in a brilliant pink. I am sure that this green colour was a special order by a Couture client.
- Jerry Hall was photographed in one that season and we have included other references for it as well so you can see how fabulous this sits on the body
- The dress has a very Old Hollywood / 1940s feel that I love. This is an era that Yves often touched upon in his work.
- It is made out of a pale grass green silk crepe that drapes beautifully once on.
- The shoulders are shaped with handmade padding inside and the sleeves are more generous through the upper part and then narrow as they reach the cuff. Each sleeve has a little handset zipper at the wrist.
- The front comes down in a V and I love how the silk has been draped and brought over from the sides to extend into ties that sit at the base of the V at the waist. This is an extremely clever way to hide all of the closures for the dress. Underneath the tie and extending down a few inches under the waist are hidden snaps and hooks that close the dress around you all while giving the illusion that you have simply tied the dress in place.
- The skirt is gathered in under that to fall to the floor. As it reaches the hem it widens out quite a bit so that when you move it has beautiful movement around you. The back also extends a little longer than the front hand for a sweep of extra movement behind you. Yves was a master at manipulating fabric to fall perfectly over the body.
- The dress is not perfect but is wearable if you do not mind that it does have some small flaws. Please make sure to read the full description below carefully. This is still an outstanding example of his work during this time period.
- The dress is fully lined in a green silk and closes with a series of snaps and hooks at the front waist. Zipper sits at each wrist. The dress has fading across the top of each shoulder and some slight fading throughout. The hem has fallen down in places and there is a touch of grubbiness and fading around the edge of the hem. There is a series of little dots near the seam at the back. The actual silk is sound and stable. The dress could potentially be dyed if you preferred not to wear it as is. Sold as found and priced accordingly.
- There is no size tag present since it is a Couture piece. Please check the measurements below.
- Great overall condition.
Sleeves: 29" and are 15" around the upper arm
Slightly extended shoulders: 16.5"
Bust: 16-19" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 13-14.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 19.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Bodice: approx 15" from top of shoulder to waist
Total length: 59" from top of shoulder to front hem and the back extends another 6"
Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED
Item# DD5209
Reference Photos: (1-2) Spring 1985 Yves Saint Laurent Haute Couture. / (3) Jerry Hall in YSL for Harper's Bazaar France, 1985. / (4) Jours de France Collections Haute Couture Soir S/S 1985. / (5) Spring 1985 Yves Saint Laurent Couture. Photo by David Seidner. / (6-8) Spring 1985 Yves Saint Laurent Haute Couture Sketches.
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
emanuel ungaro
Fall 1989 Emanuel Ungaro Haute Couture Runway Silver Strapless Mini Dress
I Have a Question
- The twin of this dress walked the runway for the Fall 1989 Haute Couture Runway
- It was made under the creative direction of Emanuel Ungaro
- The dress is made out of a handmade French lace in a pale silver grey with ivory cord overlay and subtle silver thread woven throughout. It is extremely beautiful.
- It would have been completely made by hand in the Paris Atelier
- It is fitted and shaped through the bodice with internal boning and structure. I love the soft curve at the top edge.
- The lace has been hand draped over the bust and it is swept up to one hip with a tiny handmade flower in a matching lace.
- It curves down and over the hips to the top of the thigh and the bottom of the full bodice is set on an angle.
- The skirt is gathered in and up underneath that. It is tightly gathered all the way around the lower portion of the dress which gives it incredible movement when you move.
- The dress is fully lined in a silver grey silk and closes with a hidden set, zipper, offset at the back and part of the fabric from the back extends and wraps to hook under the flower at the front. An inner waist stay hooks to close.
- Its proper Haute Couture label present
- There is no size tag present so please go by the listed measurements below.
- Excellent condition and appears to have been worn very little if at all.
Bust: 17" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 15" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 20" flat across from side seam to side seam
Total length: 29" from top of bodice to shortest part of hem, 31" to the longest part of hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED
Item# DD5154
Reference Photo: Fall 1989 Emanuel Ungaro Couture.
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
yves saint laurent
Spring 2002 / Fall 1984 Yves Saint Laurent Haute Couture Final Collection Black Silk Chiffon Dress
I Have a Question
- The twin of this dress was a part of the Spring 2002 final Haute Couture collection by Yves Saint Laurent.
- "I have chosen today to say goodbye to the craft that I have loved so much. The next show to which I invite you, on Tuesday, 22nd January at 6 PM, at the centre of George's Pompano, will predominantly be a retrospective of my work… Some designs from the currencies will also be shown." This was how Yves the announced his intention to retire and leave the world of Haute Couture. That final show was over an hour long and was presented to a room of 1500 hand picked guests.
- A total of 371 garments were shown that day with pieces from the beginning of his career to the final collection.
- Recreations of some of his most famous dresses were made available and each has the special label that you see in this dress with both the original date of the labels inception and the 2002 date.
- This is one is a recreation of the famous Fall 1984 dress. We have included references of both the original and the twin of this one in the show.
- It is an extremely rare and wonderful piece of YSL history.
- It would have been entirely made by hand in the Paris atelier.
- The neckline sits wide across and the shoulders are soft. The sleeves narrow to their ends and all of the upper bodice is done in a fine black light in weight wool that has a slight texture.
- The waist is defined by two wide panels. They attached and are gathered in along each side and this gives the shape you see. The top panel is a purple and the bottom a deep pink.
- The dress skims over the hips and then falls to the floor flaring outward as it reaches the hem. The back is cut slightly longer than the front and you can see the extra fabric built in there to create a sweeping feel behind you.
- Every line is meticulously thought out and the technique to create the lines of this dress showcase his decades as one of the premier modern Couturiers in the world.
- The dress is fully lined in a hand set black silk and closes with a side set zipper. An inner waist hooks to close and the dress buttons above a small keyhole at the back. Each end of the sleeve closes with zipper. All of the inner seams are done by hand and the entire dress is made to modern Couture standards. Its proper numbered Couture tag is present.
- There is no size tag present so please go buy the measurements listed below.
- Excellent condition and appears to have been worn very little if at all.
Sleeves: 21" and are 16" around the upper arm
Shoulders: 15"
Bust: to 19.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: to 15" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 22" flat across from side seam to side seam
Bodice: 12" from top of shoulder to top of the 10" band at the waist
Total length: 56" from top of shoulder to front hem and the back extends another 5.5" past that with just under 2" turned under the hem.
Modern Sizing Equivalent: MED-LRG
Item# DD5140
Reference Photos/Video: (1-3) Spring 2002 YSL Couture, Look 229. / (4) Fall 1984 Yves Saint Laurent Haute Couture. / (5) Vogue, November 1984.
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
christian dior
Rare Spring 1972 Christian Dior by Marc Bohan Haute Couture Blue Silk Gazaar Dress
I Have a Question
- The dress is from the Spring 1972 season as noted on its Haute Couture tag we were lucky enough to find photos from the collection and you can see how beautiful it is once on.
- It was made under the creative direction of Marc Bohan for Christian Dior.
- There is very little documentation on this particular collection, but in the book 'Dior Catwalk' it notes that the New York Times exclaimed, that "romance, contemporary style, is the provision look for spring." It goes on to declare that Bohans collection for Dior was the best of the season in Paris. "Mark Bohan succeeded in bringing back the fable elegance without becoming historical. There's no pinpointing of the 1930s or 1940s. The clothes look really contemporary".
- With such little documentation of the collection it makes a piece like this that is documented even more special and rare.
- This would have been made completely by hand in the Paris atelier.
- The dress is made out of a beautiful stiffened or starched blue silk gazaar that is woven on the bias so that the dress has a more sculptural structure and shape while still staying very light in weight. The colour is a deep blue.
- It is cut to sit fully off the shoulders though I think you could also wear it on the top edge of the shoulders if you wished.
- Each sleeve is cut to just above the elbow and has a beautiful ruffle all the way around.
- It skims over the bust and curve in a touch at the waist. Inside there is a full boned inner corset that goes to the top of the hips. This holds the dress perfectly in place around you once it is on.
- From there it skims over the hips and then flares out beautifully to the hem. The entire hem is finished with a wide ruffle that picks up on the detailing of the sleeves.
- What makes this dress especially interesting is the way that it is almost sculpted because of the fabric treatment. As good as it looks in the photos it is even more beautiful in person.
- The dress is lined in a grey-blue silk organza. The inner corset closes with its own zipper and there is an inner partial waist stay that hooks to close inside the corset. The exterior dress zips to close over that at the side. All of the work is done by hand to Haute Couture standards.
- There is no size tag present so please go by the measurements listed below.
- Excellent condition
Sleeves: 9.5" and they are 11" around the upper arm
Inner bust: 16" flat across from side seam to side seam
Inner waist: 12.25" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 19-21.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Total length: 55" from top of bodice to hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-SML
Item# DD5132
Reference Photos: Spring 1972 Christian Dior Haute Couture. (Second photo by Frédéric Scheibe)
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
christian dior
Christian Dior by Marc Bohan Spring 1988 Haute Couture Black Strapless w Bow
I Have a Question
- The twin of this dress walk the runway for the Spring 1988 show.
- Made under the creative direction of Marc Bohan for Christian Dior.
- The evening portion of the collection focused on short dresses that had a corseted waist and bust with wrapping techniques that gave the feel of a sarong. The dress is a wonderful example of that feel he was after and it is fantastic.
- We found a teeny slice of it or a very similar piece on the runway and even though the photo shows the model on an angle, it does give you an idea of how wonderful this will be on the body.
- This would have been made completely by hand in the Paris atelier.
- The fabric of this dress is fantastic. It is made out of a black silk organza that has been gathered so it has a slight 3D puffed effect. This creates an incredible texture over the dress.
- The fabric is light in weight and despite the elaborate construction of the dress is not at all heavy once it is on.
- Inside the dress has a full proper corset with boning through the bodice to give you some support and built in cups. A wide grosgrain ribbon hooks in place around the inner waist to hold everything perfectly in place.
- All of the seams are finished by hand and it is really is a nod back to the early couture days in terms of it's construction.
- The bodice is cut with a curving sweetheart neckline and it is meant to hug the body. It is elaborately gathered and fitted around the bust with all of the gathered folds coming in to the seams that run over the bodice. This is all done to emphasize your curves and it make the dress very flattering once on.
- It nips in at the waist and there is a large and elaborate bow that sets at the base of an angle seem coming from the bust. I love how this is set to curve around the hip to the back. It instantly adds to the hourglass field the dress has.
- From under the bow, the skirt curves down and over with to wrap around you and then come back in and under that panel to give it that wrapped sarong feel.
- Fully lined in a black silk and closes with a side set zipper. The interior of the bodice is boned and cupped for support. The inner corset closes with its own zipper and a wide band on the interior waist hooks to close. There is a tiny bit of lightening to some of the edges on the fabric. This is a natural aging of this type of fabric and I don't consider it to be a flaw, but it is mentioned for accuracy. It otherwise appears to have never been worn, or worn very little.
- Excellent condition
Bust: 17" flat across from side seam to side seam
Interior waist: 13" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 19" flat across from side seam to side seam
Bodice: qpprox 10" from top of bodice to waist
Total length: 29.5" from top of bodice to hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED
Item# DD5110
Reference Photos: Spring 1988 Christian Dior Haute Couture.
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
christian lacroix
jean patou
Extraordinary Fall 1985 Jean Patou Haute Couture by Christian Lacroix Feather Trim Cocoon Coat
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- Note that due to new regulations this coat can only ship to a Canadian address
- This appears to be the actual Haute Couture sample coat that walked the runway for the Fall 1985 Jean Patou collection for Look 12
- Made under the creative direction of Christian Lacroix
- This is an extremely rare and important piece of fashion history. Very few pieces of his work at Patou come up for sale and this is more then likely the only piece to exist.
- Made in the Paris atelier
- Made of a soft orange wool shaped in an enveloping cocoon shape highly reminiscent of a 1920s flapper coat.
- It is all cut on the bias so once it is on the body it wraps around you beautifully. It is extraordinary.
- The sleeves are quite extremely wide and they have a long wide cuff that flips up and over the sleeve. The cuff is completely covered in hand dyed feathers.
- More of the same hand dyed feathers are used to create a huge shawl collar that drapes down and over the shoulders. It continues to run all the way to the hem and circles around to the back hem.
- The coat narrows in as it reaches its bottom. This is a classic cut for this style of cocoon coat
- It feels wonderfully decadent and opulent, both key design elements in Lacroix's work. It is literally like wearing a work of art.
- Partially lined in a silk through the upper body of the coat and through the sleeves. The rest is unlined.
- Has its hand written Haute Couture sample label in place and attached metal couture tag
- Excellent condition
It is very full and open and has no closures so should fit almost any size. It is approximately 52 inches from neck to hem but that will come up a bit once it is on the body.
Modern Sizing Equivalent: OSFA
Item# DD5048
Reference Photo: Fall 1985 Christian Lacroix Haute Couture.
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
givenchy
Late 1970s Early 1980s Hubert de Givenchy Haute Couture Gold Embroidered Off Shoulder Dress
I Have a Question
Hubert de Givenchy moved to Paris in 1942 where he worked for Jacques Fath, then Elsa Schiaparelli, and eventually Cristobal Balenciaga. Givenchy often attributed much of his later success to the years with to Mr Balenciaga and what he learned while there. In 1952, Givenchy founded his namesake house in Paris and quickly rose to fame as one of the great couturiers of our time. I am always pleased to find any of his Haute Couture work as it is so rare. This particular dress is exceptional with every detail on it finished to Haute Couture standards.
This is an amazing true Haute Couture Givenchy dress that is a very rare and special find. Two things of immediate note for this dress. First is the absolutely beautiful fabric combination. The bodice and sleeves are an inky black silk velvet and then the ruffles on the neckline, end of each sleeve, and the entire top layer of the skirt is a starched cotton and silk mix netting that has beautiful little gold metal thread flowers hand embroidered over the netting. I took closeups of both the front of these flowers and also their backs so that you can see the beautiful workmanship put into each individual flower. I also included close ups of the hand finished seams on the interior of the dress. The time and technique to complete this dress would have been astounding and I cannot even imagine how many hours this would have taken. The second thing of note is that stunning cut through the neckline. It is tremendously flattering to have that bare expanse of skin across the top of the shoulder like that. It feels a little bit sexy with the way the top sits off the shoulder to leave that expanse of bare skin. You could also wear it on the shoulder but I chose to show it off. I love that you have the versatility of the two different ways to wear it. A ruffle goes all the way around the neckline and around the end of each sleeve. It is shaped to come in at the waist and then curves out over the hips. The skirt is set into a seam that sits at the top of the hips and the netting is softly gathered into that seam so you get a touch of fullness. As the skirt flows down to the hem it expands outwards to give you pretty movement as you walk. There is a full black silk organza inner skirt under the top layer of the skirt so that it is opaque enough to wear. It is spectacular. This is a very beautiful example of Givenchy from this time period and an amazing example of the technical skills that can be achieved in Haute Couture. It is easy to see why his work is the subject of so many books and retrospective shows at museums worldwide. Excellent condition
The dress is fully lined in a matching hand set black silk. It zips to close and an inner waist stay hooks to close. Completely made by hand throughout to Haute Couture standards. It appears to have been worn very little if at all. Proper couture tag and numbered tape present.
Sleeves: 26" and are 11.5" around the upper arm
The opening across the neckline is 18" flat across from side to side
Bust: 16" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 12.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Seam at top of hip: 16.5" flat across from side to side
Hips: open
Bodice: 19" from top of natural shoulder to seam at the top of the hip
Total length: 61.5" from top of natural shoulder to hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-SML
Item# DD4975
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
yves saint laurent
Spring 1982 Yves Saint Laurent Haute Couture 'Indian Collection' Ivory & Black Tunic/Dress
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The Spring 1982 collection marked the 20th anniversary of Yves' Couture house. In the book Yves Saint Laurent: Catwalk they note that the historical importance of his collection made him feel very anxious. He was quoted as saying "I am frightened of this collection. I am far more anxious than I was for my first collection. It is a reassessment of 20 years… It is the end of adolescence, the beginning of maturity. I really feel like a beginner." But of course, it was a masterpiece of a collection and raved about.
The collection was extravagant and was heavily influenced by India and the beautiful work done by Indian artisans. There was a play on proportions with wide shoulders and a narrowing at the hips. This tunic was one of the more simple pieces in the collection but it still has the touch of an oversized shoulder and the ease and elegance of a beautiful silk in its making.
I love that you can wear this as a tunic over something else. It was shown over a skirt and a modern girl could easily wear it on its own as a dress. It was shown belted with a silk sash in the advance photos for the collection and you could easily add a belt or ribbon if you wanted to have more shape. The shoulders are padded and set a little wide. The sleeves are cut wide through the upper arm and even as they narrow to the wrist, they are still wide set by the cuff. The cuffs and collar are done in a black silk and I love the contrast to the ivory of the body. It is meant to be worn fairly loose and easy to skim over your bust, waist and hips. It falls to about the knee or just above depending on your height. A slit runs up each side and you can see that he has lined the entire inside of the piece in that same black silk as the collar and cuffs. When you walk and move the slits let you to see that flash of black which ties the whole piece together perfectly. The silk is a rich and heavy weight that drapes beautifully over the body. This is a dress that really needs to come to life with a body in it and my dress form photos are nowhere near to doing it justice. It is completely made by hand and an absolutely beautiful, refined and easy piece of true Couture. Excellent condition with a small note below.
Fully lined in a handset black silk and closes at the back with a hand set zipper. Handmade padding in each shoulder. It is completely made by hand to Couture standards. Has it proper YSL numbered Couture label. There is one small mark near the elbow of one sleeve. Please see the photo after the label shot. The easy cut should allow it to fit a range of sizes. On a smaller frame, it will just feel more oversized.
Sleeves: 22.5" and each is 20" around the upper arm
Exaggerated shoulders: 16.5"
Bust: to 19" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: to 19" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 20" flat across from side seam to side seam
Total length: 39" from top of shoulder to hem
Slits: 11.5" from hem up
Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-LRG
Item# DD4913
Reference Photos: Spring 1982 Yves Saint Laurent Couture Advance Preview. Model Kirat Young.
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
yves saint laurent
Spectacular Spring 1992 Yves Saint Laurent Haute Couture Look 47 Runway Dot & Embroidered Floral Pouf Dress
I Have a Question
- The twin of the dress walked the Yves Saint Laurent Spring 1992 Haute Couture runway as Look 47.
- It was made under the creative direction of Yves Saint Laurent.
- It would have been made entirely by hand in the Paris atelier,
- The dress is extremely well documented and I have included photos of the original sketch and swatches that I have here from the Saint Laurent couture archive book set that I own in addition to runway reference photos of it that we found. You can see just how fantastic it is on the body.
- This collection marked Yves' 30 year anniversary and it was presented on January 29 to coincide exactly with his first collection presented January 29, 1962.
- The book, Yves Saint Laurent Catwalk, notes that at the time people were expecting a retrospective but Yves actually surprised everyone by producing a full 91 piece collection. There was a definitive tribute aspect to his first 1962 collection. Flowers were a main motif and ran throughout the collection as did polka dots and stripes. Puff sleeve tops with balloons skirts were integral and dresses like this one were a key look. It is an exceptional to have such beautiful documentation on this stunning dress.
- Every piece of Saint Laurent Couture is a treasure but when it's as highly documented in from such an important collection as this, it is just that much more special.
- The dress is made from a combination of a white silk that has been hand embroidered with roses and leaves across the entire bodice. This is then combined with a silk faille skirt that has dots that appear to be hand painted onto the fabric.
- A silk organza bow is wrapped around the waist and I love the deeper mustard yellow tone of it. It perfectly offsets the black and white palette.
- The neckline is scooped across the front and the bodice is meant to skim over the body to the waist.
- The sleeves are fantastic and each insets into the bodice in a series of pleats across the top of the shoulders. This is what gives them the volume that you see.
- The edges of the neckline are finished with a black cord and this runs around the cuffs as well. Each cuff is brought into the arm with a button and loop and this bringing in at the arm also helps to exaggerate the puff above.
- The entire silk of the top is embroidered in this magical, dreamy, black rose embroidery that pops against the white of the silk.
- The embroidery is done onto the silk directly in some places and then in other places the leaves or roses have been cut out and hand stitched in place.
- The waist is seamed but it is more generously cut and the organza ribbon that circles it adds the perfect pop of colour.
- Under that the skirt is fantastically full and the fullness is created by the pleats that are set into the waist and the way it has been wrapped in and under at the hem to attach to the skirt underneath. Between the those two layers of the skirt you can feel that there is tulle and some structure inside that helps hold that exaggerated shape.
- It is a fantastic magical piece of Haute Couture and an important piece from an important collection.
- The bodice is lined in an ivory silk and the sleeves are unlined. The belt at the waist is attached and wrapped and hooked into place. The skirt is lined in the same fabric as the outer skirt and there is stiffening between the layers as described above. It closes at the back with a button at the top of the neck and then there is a hidden set side zipper too close. The dress is unlabeled, but I have seen the original label that came with the dress. The dress had been let out at some point and my client had it brought back in and unfortunately when she had it altered back to its original size, the tailor lost the tag. I see some very minor evidence of that alteration on the bodice. There are some areas of stress near the embroidery and some minor reinforcements underneath the arms. I see slight dustiness on the fabric at the top the shoulders and there is a tiny chip on the button on one sleeve. Perhaps a slight grubbiness along the inner edge of the lining under the arm. The outside presents as clean and fresh and once on it looks immaculate.
- There is no size tag present because it is true Couture. Please go by the measurements listed below.
- Excellent condition with a notes above.
Slightly inset shoulders: 14.5"
Bust: 17.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Natural waist: 16" flat across from side seam to side seam
Inner hips: 19.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Bodice: 15" from top of shoulder to waist
Skirt: 18" from waist to hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED
Item# DD4509
Reference Photos: (1-4) Spring 1992 Yves Saint Laurent Haute Couture. / (5-6) From the book "Yves Saint Laurent Haute Couture: L'oeuvre Integral 1962-2002".
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
lanvin
Extraordinary Fall 1952 Lanvin by Castillo Haute Couture Brilliant Blue Alpaca Coat w Button Front
I Have a Question
- This beautiful and rare coat is from the Fall 1952 Lanvin Collection.
- It was made under the creative direction of Antonio Castillo.
- True Couture examples from this era are extremely rare and this is a fantastic piece showcasing the Haute Couture work being done by the house of Lanvin during the years that Antonio Castillo headed the atelier.
- Castillo started off his career at the houses of Paquin and Piquet. He also did a stint designing accessories for Chanel. He quickly became known as one of the most promising designers to emerge after WWII and that reputation was part of why he was chosen in 1950 to become the head designer at the House of Lanvin. The press at the time lauded him, along with Balmain, Dior and Balenciaga, as the new generation of the Paris Couture designers. During his time at Lanvin the house was known for the simple and elegant lines.
- We found a reference photo of its near twin that was styled with a belt, dramatic gloves and matching hat added. It is very beautiful and the colour is exceptional.
- The coat would have been completely made by hand in the Paris atelier.
- This coat is beautifully tailored. The double row of buttons at the front and curving cut makes it feel as chic and wearable now as it was when first made.
- It is entirely finished by hand and has its numbered couture tape under the label.
- It has a deceptively simple cut that hides the precise seams and masterfully tailored cut. It is constructed with the absolute minimal seam work to create the curves of the coat that you see.
- It is more fitted through the upper bodice and then skims over the waist and flares out slightly as it nears the hem.
- The collar is neat with a notched front and each sleeve ends in a turned up cuff.
- A half belt is attached at the back and you could add a belt over it to emphasize the shape even more.
- The fabric is amazing with a soft finish to it. I believe it is an Alpaca or perhaps a type of cashmere and it is extremely luxurious. The fact that it is dyed that amazing blue makes it that much more brilliant. It is even better in person and the fabric has to be seen and felt to truly be appreciated. This fabric choice allowed Castillo to be able to sculpt the exact shape that he desired.
- The front has detailed seaming that becomes part of the actual design and inside that is a double row of blue buttons that run down the front to the waist.
- You can wear this one open or do it up right to the neck like the reference photo.
- I love the sculptural effect the coat has once on and that beautifully full lower skirting. No shortcut was taken in the construction of this lovely coat and it is an outstanding piece of fashion history in every possible way.
- Fully lined in a hand set black silk taffeta and closes with the button down the front. Finished to Haute Couture standards and entirely done by hand. The Haute Couture numbered tape label is present under the main label and is numbered 15.418.
- There is no size tag present because it is true Couture. Please go by the measurements list listed below.
- Excellent condition.
Sleeves: 22" and are 13" around the upper arm
Shoulders: 15.5"
Bust: 18.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 16" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: open
Length: 45" from neck to hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED
Item# DD4489
Reference Photo: Model in Lanvin, 1952.
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
christian dior
Documented Spring 1961 Christian Dior by Marc Bohan 'Slim Line' Haute Couture Debut Silk Jacket & Skirt Suit
I Have a Question
This is an incredible set that is extra special because it is from the debut Haute Couture collection of Marc Bohan. It has the added province of being documented which is sometimes not easy to find with these very early pieces. The book Dior, Catwalk talks about the reaction to this first collection by Bohan; "Thundering applause, led by the Duchess of Windsor, rolled through the elegant grey and white salons of the House of Dior, the happy ending to the suspense story of the fashion year. At stake was the future dominance of Dior, and the career of designer Mark Bohan. The Chicago Tribune hailed him as being "Mister Dior, the third". The New York Times stated "the shouting, clapping, surging mob at the press show cause chaos in the elegant salon. Bohan was pushed up against the boiserie, kissed, mauled and congratulated. Chairs were toppled. Champagne glasses were broken. People were knocked down. It was a complete triumph for the designer". The book goes on to state that; Bohan called the collection the "Slim Line". It was a streamlined take on the original "New Look". He revisited the day suit with wide cut jackets and low waisted flared skirts fitted at the hips. The Times declared it "a success from the appearance of the first model and worthy in the tradition of the great maestro himself. And Women's Wear Daily wrote three months after the collection was shown that "the Bohan flare is everywhere. Bohan has done the impossible. He is a big commercial success and respected by the fashion intellect."
The set is exceptional and is an excellent investment piece as well. Dior prices continue to skyrocket and finding couture examples like this from such an important collection and in this condition is getting harder and harder.
This suit is fantastic. It is actually two pieces. A flared skirt and then a top / jacket that goes over that. The top is fascinating in the way that it is cut and we were very happy to find and see in the reference photo of it that its construction is deliberate. The front only buttons at the bottom and then there is a snap just above that button to hold it closed. It is meant to stay open above that and the button holes that you see continuing up along the edge of the jacket are actually faux. They do not open all the way through. You can see in the photo that the model is wearing it the way that it's meant to be worn. The very bottom is closed and then she has a light top on underneath. This lets the jacket play on its volume that it has. You could certainly open the fabric and finish the buttonholes if you wish to wear it fully closed, but it is meant to be like this. The jacket has a lot of volume and is meant to skim over you and then the skirt is cut in a sleek little flare that skims over the hips and flares out with a series of flat pleats all the way around the skirt. Around the waist the silk lies flat and neat. It is very flattering once on the body. When you stand still the skirt lays flat and smooth but when you move you get an incredible burst of movement and volume. Over that goes the jacket with its wonderful to the elbow wide cut sleeves and oversized MOP buttons down the front. The shoulders are soft and there is no collar. The fabric is a very high end silk twill dyed to that pale tan mixed with white. Both pieces are entirely finished by hand to Haute Couture standards and I've shown some of the detailing inside. It is chic and elegant yet still feels edgy. An amazing find. Excellent condition
The jacket is lined in a fine silk in the same colour as the exterior tan and the skirt is interlined in a white silk organza. The jacket closes with the bottom button only and a hidden snap above that as described above. The skirt closes with hook & eye at the waist and hidden snaps below that. Completely done by hand to Haute Couture Standards. Proper numbered couture label in place on the jacket. There are some natural, variations and lines in the silk that is inherent to this type of fabric and should not be considered a flaw. It is in remarkable condition.
Jacket
Slightly dropped shoulders: 16-17"
Bust: to 21" flat across from side seam to side seam
Bottom hem: 19" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 24.5" from neck to hem
Skirt
Waist: 13" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 21" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 27" from waist to hem with 2" turned under the hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED
Item# DD4484
Reference Photo: Christian Dior Haute Couture Printemps-Ete 1961. Photo Emerick Bronson. Model Nicole de Lamargé.
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
romeo gigli
Important 1990 Romeo Gigli One Off Haute Coutre Full Wedding Dress Set w Flower Filled Chiffon Coat & Accessories
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Every so often I am contacted by someone and entrusted with something very special and this wedding set by Romeo Gigli absolutely fits that bill. This incredible set is a one of a kind, Haute Couture made to measure piece that comes directly from its original owner and she has graciously given all of the original documentation on it to share with you along with a full write up on her experience with Romeo and a scan of the Elle article that was written a year after her wedding.
Romeo Gigli launched his label first in 1981 which failed. In 1983 he partnered with Carla Sozzani and in 1985 he presented a 25 piece collection in Milan. By 1986 he was an international sensation and his collections made world wide headlines. In 1989 he had his Paris debut. His work was romantic but dramatic. Hallmarks included shawl coats, which this set so perfectly displays, along with soft sloping shoulders and silhouettes that narrow as they come down the body. Historical references run through his work and his de-structured lines felt fresh and new.
This set has all of the original pieces that Marion wore on her wedding day and even includes the original boxes and silk bags that the set was delivered in. Every piece was made in studio by hand and when I tell you that my photos do not do the full set justice I have never been more honest as everything is more beautiful in person. This is a once in a life time opportunity to own this incredible and important piece of fashion history. The link to Marion's story is below and a short description of the pieces follows.
The wedding ensemble consists of a pale pink silk chiffon top, a gold lace hobble skirt and a deep gold silk jacket or top that was worn over those two pieces. An incredible silk chiffon coat that is filled with silk flowers and flows behind you in a knotted train was worn over that. The original pale taupe velvet shoes in their original box are present along with the hand made hair sticks and pins. The two original pink raw silk hand made bags that the skirt and tops were delivered in are included and the entire ensemble comes in its original raw silk covered box. The final piece included is the little hand held green silk bag that Marion carried that day.
The skirt and inner top are the base of the outfit. The top is slightly cropped and made from a pale dusty peach pink silk chiffon. The chiffon has been hand gathered into soft pleats and crosses itself over the front and back. It wraps around you and closes on one side, inside, with a series of silk covered buttons and then the other side wraps over that and closes at the back outside with buttons as well. The skirt is made out of fine gold lace and is banded around the waist for shape. It drapes softly over the body with volume through the hips created by the layers. It narrows down at the ankles for a touch of a hobble skirt in appearance with the ends curving up and under. It is an incredible design.
An oversized silk top goes over this that has a bit of volume through the body. It is made from a deep copper gold silk with a burnished finish. The sleeves are incredibly long and are meant to be gather along the arms and follow the cut and curve of them. The collar is very high and wired so that it stands and frames the face beautifully. One side is longer then the other and you can shape the wire to give it a quirky little curve in the direction and way that works best for you. I love the open cut out just under the collar. It hints at the silk chiffon top underneath and adds an unexpected flash of skin.
The coat is utterly remarkable. It is thoroughly Romeo Gigli in spirit and it is one of the most beautiful, magical things I have ever seen. It has those beautiful sloped shoulders he was known for and the front flips over into a deep shawl collar. It slips on over everything else with no front closures. It just falls over you in this exceptional drape of chiffon and flowers and then trails out behind you. The end has been knotted and I love this detail as it is absolutely Gigli at his best. The coat is made from a silk chiffon outer and inner layer that has a touch of transparency to it while inside and between the layers are thousands of silk flowers. Each would have been placed by hand one by one to form a solid layer of flowers that shows through the silk. It has weight yet it feels weightless. It has presence yet it feels ethereal. The top layer of the chiffon is a pale dusty pink and then the inner layer is a pale taupe. The flowers float between the two and it make this light rustling sound as it moves that it magical. It is one of the best things I have ever personally seen.
Finally are the accessories. Her original velvet shoes that slide on and then tie in place, the little green silk bag that is held by the tied straps and the various hand made hair and stick pins in their original box.
The entire set will be sent in it original box hand covered in a deep dusty pink raw silk as it came to Marion from the Gigli ateliers.
Everything is in superb condition. I see a teeny smudge of discoloration under the arms of the inner silk chiffon top and the wear to the soles of the shoes giving away the clue that it was worn that day. The silk on the large box it came in has more wear as seen in the photos
This is a once in a life time, absolutely remarkable piece of fashion history.
Inner top
Shoulders: no true seams
Bust: 18.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 15" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 14" from top of shoulder to hem
Skirt
Waist: 14" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 47" from waist to hem and including the 4" waist band
Outer top
Sleeves: 39" from the dropped shoulder seam and are around 11" arond after the dropped shoulder
Shoulders: 27" across and meant to drop significantly
Bust: 30" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 27" flat across from side seam to side seam and narrows to 19" flat across from side seam to side seam by the hem
Length: 41" from neck hem
Neck: 13" around
Coat
Is about 36" flat across the inner bust and it is about 120" long from the neck to end past the knot and not including the deep shawl collar. It is pretty much OSFA
Bag
Approx 9.5" tall and about 5-7" in diameter
Shoes
Approx a 40-41
Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED for the inner outfit and the coat is OSFA
Item# DD4458
Reference Photos: Courtesy of Marion Hume. (1-2) Fitting with Romeo Gigli. / (3-7) On the wedding day.
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
madame gres
1970s Madame Gres Haute Couture Wide Leg Pant Set w Metallic Gold Part Open Tie Top
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Madame Gres' work has had profound effects on Haute Couture and her influence still resonates to this day. Her attention to detail, master draping techniques and respect for the female form is unparalleled. She was known for designing and creating garments directly on her models and this became a signature of her work. She opened her first atelier, La Maison Alix in 1932. A partnership briefly changed the house's name to Alix Barton and then the label went to simply Alix. In 1942 she married, and the label made its last change to became Madame Gres, which was a partial anagram of Serge, her husband's first name. Her work spans over five full decades with the vast majority of it, with the exception of a short-lived RTW line begun in 1980, dedicated solely to creating Haute Couture. She is one of the greatest couturiers of our time and her pieces are very rare and hard to find. This set is from the early to mid-seventies and it is fabulous.
This is an amazing vintage set. I love the camel coloured wide legged jersey pants with their wide cut legs. The jersey they are made out of is the soft wool that she used extensively during this time period and it has a soft finish to it that looks and feels heavenly once on. The pants are banded at the top with a wide gathered sash of a pale yellow jersey for contrast to the camel colour below. This hooks to the one side and there is built-in boning at the sides to hold its shape around the waist. It is a touch wider on one side then the other to create a pretty curve. The pants fall to the floor and widen out to be 64" around at each hem. The top has a metallic finish to it and the contrast between the two fabrics is fantastic. The silk has actual metal thread woven through it and this gives it a subtle glint from all angles. A design runs through the silk and the metal thread is woven onto that in a floral design The neckline is scooped and it skims over you to the waist. The sleeves are long and simple. It ties into place at the back with ties made of the same fabric. These sit on an angle that starts at the neckline, run across to one side and then go straight down to the hem of the top. This leaves a little bare expanse of skin showing between the ties. I photoed the top un-tucked and tucked as it can be worn either way. Both pieces have a Haute Couture label in them and the top has an additional handwritten numbered tag inside. This is an incredible and rare opportunity to own a beautiful piece of her work and it is that much more versatile with the two pieces since you can mix and match with pieces from your exiting wardrobe. Excellent condition with a small note below.
Both pieces are unlined and have been completely finished by hand. The pants close with hook and eye at the band and a zipper under that. There's a small repair to the jersey inside the inner structure of the band and then one of the fold along one side. Neither is seen once on. The top ties to close at the back.
Top
Sleeves: 21"
Shoulders: 14"
Bust: 17" flat across from side seam to side seam
Bottom seam: approx 12-13" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 12" from shoulder to hem
Pants
Waist: 12" at top of band and narrows to 11.5" flat across from side seam to side seam of true waist
Band: 3.5" high on the boned hook closure side and the other side will widen to approx 9"
Hips: open
Length: 40" from true waist to hem
Inseam: 29"
Rise: 15" from true waist to inner seam
Modern Sizing Equivalent: XXS-XS
Item# DD4182
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
valentino
Incredible Spring 2005 Valentino Haute Couture Green Ombre Bias Cut Silk Chiffon Dress w Pleated Bodice
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My couture client had this stunning silk chiffon dress made for her and it was one of the last pieces she acquired from the house. It is an interesting thing in that it shows how the client can really direct and combine different runway elements to make a one of a kind dress like this one is. When we look at the runway from that season we can see that skirt is taken from one dress, the top from another, and the colour from a third. It's a dress that combines the runway looks 25 ,26 and 27. The experience of couture is really client driven and I love how this dress takes elements from the three Valentino's pieces, stays true to his vision for this season and yet is completely unique. We found video of the dress that shares the skirt design of this dress and I've included it so you can see how beautifully this will move once it's on the body. Being a custom piece that was made specifically for her also means that it truly a one-off-a-kind which makes much more special. It is an extraordinarily beautiful piece of Haute Couture. The workmanship is exquisite.
This dress is divine. The lines of it are beautiful and as good as it looks on the dress form it will only truly come to life on an actual body. The bodice of the dress is fitted and nipped in at the waist. It is cut in a sweetheart neckline that softly curves at the top. The bodice is done in an extremely intricate manner. Panels of the silk chiffon are hand gathered and placed in soft pleats to form that complicated pattern that wraps around the entire bodice. Sitting at the top of each shoulder is a rounded soft cap sleeve done in the same pleating technique. This painstaking manner of pleating and gathering would have taken hours and hours to accomplish. It is of course all done by hand. There is a silk band around the waist and then the skirt flows out to the floor from there. The skirt is made from many yards of a beautiful bias silk chiffon. The inner skirt is made from four layers of the bias cut chiffon and then over that are two more layers of silk. At the front the top layers are cut to just under the hip and then they trail and curve down the sides to the back. If you look at the video we have included you can see how much movement this adds to the dress. The fabric is feather light and the fact that is is made from six layers of silk chiffon allows it to catch the slightest bit of air and float around you. It is incredible. The interior of the dress is made to couture standards with a full built in cupped corset that is boned and shaped to the waist. I am obsessed with the soft degrade ombre effect that dress has because of how the silk gradually changes from a soft deeper green at the top to the palest green near the bottom. It is one of the most beautiful dresses I have seen and looks to have been worn very little if at all. It is an amazing example of original Valentino Haute Couture. Excellent condition.
The interior bodice is boned and corseted. The skirt has six layers of silk as described above. The interior corset closes with a zipper and then the dress zips to close over that. The top silk layer of the skirt snaps to close over. Two inner waist stays that hook to close. Finished with Haute Couture construction techniques throughout.
Bust: 18" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 15" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: open
Bodice: 15" from top of shoulder to bottom of waist seam
Skirt: 45" from bottom of waist seam to hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED
Item# DD4156
Reference Photos/Video: Spring 2005 Valentino Haute Couture Runway, Look 27, 26 & 25.
This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.















































