emanuel ungaro
Spring 2017 Emanuel Ungaro by Fausto Puglisi Runway Look 44 Metallic Brocade Ruffled Mini Dress
I Have a Question
- The twin of this dress walked the runway as Look 44 in the Spring 2017 Emmanuel Ungaro collection.
- It was made under the creative direction of Fausto Puglisi
- Puglisi referenced the 1986 video called "Ouragan" by Princess Stephanie of Monaco. "Stephanie was the rebel royal and Decades later it looks like Puglisi aesthetic was in some part formed by that spirit". The review continue to say "we've entered the period of peak ruffle. That means it's a good time to be at Ungaro, a label synonymous with the high flying 80s, which is the last time the world saw frills and flunces on the scale we're witnessing now." Vogue especially noted the purple and yellow combinations he used.
- The dress is made out of a brocade that has a slight 3-D dimension feel to it with race parts within the pattern.
- Joyful flowers and purple and yellow cover the fabric on a ivory backdrop mixed with gold thread. Inside the dress is lined with a bright green muslin that adds a beautiful pop against those already bright colors.
- The front and back are cut into a V and it looks like someone has added a little stitch at the front. If you wanted that front plunge even more that could easily be removed. The shoulders are soft and a double band of ruffles cascade over each shoulder and then sweep down the front and back to the band at the waist.
- The waist has a 2 inch band of the same fabric for shape. On the runway it was belted and if you wanted to really cinch in the waist, you could add a belt.
- The skirt is just fantastic. It curves over the hip and then it's finished with two layers of ruffles that sweep all the way around the hem.
- The ruffles come up on one side and it all perfectly balance is out the ruffles on the shoulders.
- Hidden underneath that one side of the skirt is a very high slit that goes right up to the waist underneath. It is partially wrapped over itself, so you get a flash of leg but not full exposure. It's very sexy.
- This is a gorgeous little dress that combines the joyful for feel of spring with a little bit of sexy.
- The dress is fully lined in the green and closes with a back zipper.
- There was no size tag present. Please go by the measurements listed below.
- Excellent condition
Bust: to 17" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 13" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 19" flat across from side seam to side seam
Bodice: 14" from top of the shoulder to the top of the 2" band at the waist
Total length: 34" from top of the shoulder to hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED
Item# DD5665
Reference Photo/Video: Spring 2017 Emanuel Ungaro, Look 44.
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
yves saint laurent
Documented Fall 1985 Yves Saint Laurent Haute Couture Runway Look 43 Purple Over-sized Cut Tunic
I Have a Question
- The twin of this tunic walked the runway in the Fall 1985 YSL Haute Couture collection for Look 43.
- It was made under the creative direction of Yves Saint Laurent.
- This is the collection that the book 'Yves Saint Laurent: Catwalk' notes that "silence reigned during the catwalk presentation for which YSL had decided not to include music. The models processed noiselessly into the salon of the Hotel Intercontinental. This was a collection of essentials for an autumn/winter that was marked by a sobriety, simplicity and purity". French Vogue said "the woman herself was showcased in her typical Parisian elegance". The review specifically noted the use of purple balancing out the more sombre blue, brown and greys. Several variations of the shape of this tunic were shown on that runway.
- In the YSL folio that contains all the drawings from the collection we found the original sketch for the look.
- I love that it started with the scarf that matches the folio drawing and then as the model proceeded down the runway the scarf was removed and she had a fabulous jewelled choker underneath.
- Yves always cut his couture pieces so perfectly. In my opinion owning a piece of his couture work is one of the ultimate vintage acquisitions.
- It would have been made entirely by hand in the Paris atelier.
- The tunic is made from a high-end wool jersey that holds it shape and drapes beautifully.
- This is a gorgeous and versatile piece. It can be worn open and easy. layered under other pieces. or belted. I have added a simple black grosgrain ribbon around the waist for some of the photos to show you how the shape changes once belted. The ribbon is not original to the tunic but I will include it.
- The neckline is scooped and the shoulders have handmade padding underneath to hold that perfect 1980s shape.
- The top of one shoulder is detailed with three buttons and all of these buttons are functional.
- The sleeves are set wide into the body of the tunic and gathered at the top for a slight cap affect. They billow out to be very full and open all the way to the cuff. The cuffs are finished so that the sleeve gather into them. The cuffs themselves are also slightly over-sized in their diameter.
- The body of the tunic is extremely loose and easy and widens out as it nears the hem. It is intentionally made to feel over-sized. This makes it very easy to fit on a variety of body types.
- I love the seam that runs down just inside of the outer edges on both sides. These end in a curve at the hem and there is a slit on both sides. Just above the slits are hidden set pockets.
- The back has a defined seam that runs down its centre and the zipper is hidden underneath it. Once on the body it appears to have no closures.
- It is a fantastic piece of true Couture and an easy way to work in some YSL vintage magic into your wardrobe.
- The tunic is fully lined in a handset matching purple silk through the body and the sleeves are unlined. It closes with a zipper at the back. The buttons on the top of the shoulder are functional. Pockets on each side.
- There is no size tag present because it is true Couture. Please go by the measurements listed below.
- Excellent condition
Sleeves: 22.5" and they are approximately 20" around the upper arm
Shoulders: 15.25"
Bust: to 21" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: to 23" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 28" flat across from side seam to side seam
Total length: 29" from neck to hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED
Item# DD5664
Reference Photo: Fall 1985 Yves Saint Laurent Haute Couture, Look 43.
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
Fausto Puglisi
Fall 2012 Fausto Puglisi Ad Campaign Multi Colour Mini Dress w Gold & Rhinestone Detailing
I Have a Question
- The dress is from the Fall 2012 collection
- It was made under the creative direction of Fausto Puglisi
- The twin of this dress was used in the Ad campaign and we also found a reference photos from an editorial that took place in the showroom. It was also shot for a magazine editorial that season. I love that we have these reference photos so you can see how fabulous it is once on an actual body.
- When these debuted they sold out worldwide and seemed to be everywhere on all of the fashion people.
- His first collection debuted in 2006 and Italian fashion editor Anna Dello Russo started to wear his pieces everywhere and is largely responsible for bringing his work to the spotlight. His style during this time period was often referred to as "Greco-Roman glitz".
- The dress is made out of a light wool that has a slight texture to it. It is a mix of six different colours.
- The bodice is a pale purple with soft yellow straps that are cut wide. They curve up and over the shoulders to meet the back.
- Around the waist at the front there is a wide panel of ivory embellished with an over-sized metal and rhinestone medallion.
- The band at the back is done in a soft green and then you have black panels that wrap around the hips to the back zipper on either side.
- The skirt is a deeper purple at the front with yellow used for the back.
- The back of the skirt has been pleated and has slits on either side of the skirt to show even more leg than the short length already does.
- It is beautifully made and is an incredible mix of sexiness and a sense of lightness and fun.
- The bodice is fully lined in an ivory silk and there is light boning at the sides. It closes with a back hidden set zipper and an inner waist stay snaps to close. A touch of a mark on the inner lining. Please see the photo after the label shot.
- Tagged modern a US6, UK10, IT42, FR38
- Excellent condition
Bust: 16.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 13.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: open
Total length: 31.5" from top of shoulder to hem and the slits at the side are 5.25" from the hem up.
Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-SML
Item# DD5663
Reference Photo: (1) Fall 2012 Fausto Puglisi Ad Campaign photographed by Paolo Santambrogio. / (2) The Fausto Puglisi Showroom. / (3) Model in Fausto Puglisi for En Vie Fashion Magazine, July 2014.
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
christian dior
1976 Christian Dior by Marc Bohan Printed Purple & Turquoise Silk Chiffon Skirt & Jacket Set
I Have a Question
- The set is from the 1976 Christian Dior collection.
- It was made under the creative direction of Marc Bohan.
- This is a shorter skirt version in purple and turquoise of the set that was photoed for L'Officiel in 1976. We had a red version many, many years ago and I am very pleased to have found this one.
- Both pieces are made out of a crepe silk chiffon that is light in weight and moves quite beautifully.
- I love that because it is two pieces you can wear it together to get the full look or you can mix and match it with pieces you already own.
- The top can play double duty as it can be worn as a proper top or you could layer it over other pieces as more of a light jacket.
- The top can be tucked in and left loose and easy, or worn belted, whether tucked in or loose, giving you even more versatility.
- The shoulders are soft and they extend out into sleeves that are cut wide and full for a bit of a kimono feel.
- The neck has no collar and there is a silk covered button at the top of the neck. If you choose to close this, it creates a slit keyhole that runs to the first of seven buttons that sit midway on the top. There are no buttons below that so if you wear it un-tucked it is open at the bottom and very pretty.
- Running around the collar and down both sides of the front is an edging of a pretty gold piping that adds a beautiful finishing touch.
- The skirt has a band around the waist and is cut slimmer around the hips with pin tuck seams for a little detail and shape.
- At the bottom of the hip the skirt opens on each side with a series of soft pleats that give you extra volume on the sides. As you move, this gives you beautiful movement around you. I also love the subtle reference of picking up on the volume of the sleeves
- It is absolutely beautiful and a wonderfully documented set.
- The top is unlined and the skirt is fully lined in a purple bias cut silk. The top buttons to close at the front and the skirt closes with a zipper and hook an eye at the waist.
- There is no size tag present. Please go by the measurements below
- Excellent condition
Jacket
Sleeves: to 19" at their longest points and they are 18" around the upper arm
Slightly dropped shoulders: 17"
Bust: to 20" flat across from side seam to side seam and narrows to 19.5" by the hem
Length: 23" from neck to hem
Skirt
Waist: 15.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 18.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 30.5" from waist to hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED
Item# DD5642
Reference Photo: Roland Bianchini for L’Officiel de la Couture N. 625, 1976.
This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.
yves saint laurent
Fall 1987 Yves Saint Laurent Runway Off Shoulder Dress w Metallic Thread & Ruffled Detailing
I Have a Question
- The twin of this dress walked the runway for the Fall 1987 show.
- It was made under the creative direction of Yves Saint Laurent.
- We have included reference photos of it from the runway for you so that you can see how fabulous it is on the body. We even found one where you can see the model walking back down the runway so you can see how gorgeous it is from the back as well.
- This is an easy to wear and very chic little YSL dress perfect for parties.
- The top layer of the dress is an unusual blue-purple colour that runs through a lace feeling fabric.
- It has a bit of a metallic feel from it caused by a metallic thread that runs through the lace.
- Over that are thousands of glossy black sequins that follow the pattern. The sequins catch the light from every angle.
- Underneath that top layer is a deep blue silk chiffon that has a touch of transparency to it with the two layered over each other it is opaque enough to wear safely.
- The combination of these two fabrics keep it light and weight so that it feels amazing once on the body.
- The dress sits off the shoulder to leave a bare expanse of skin across the top and it is finished with a pretty black silk organza ruffle.
- The sleeves fall to just past the elbow and each is also finished with a ruffle.
- From there the dress skims over you, running over the bust and past the waist, with no seaming there to break the line. At the top of the hip there is a seam that has another ruffled detailing.
- The skirt falls under that and widens out as it nears the hem. A final ruffle goes all the way around the edge of the skirt. The back of the skirt is set to hang a touch longer than the front. This gives you a beautiful curve from the side and adds a touch of pretty volume.
- It is a gorgeous dress and really showcases Yves' innovative eye and design genius.
- The dress is fully lined in a dark blue silk chiffon. It closes at the side with a zipper. It appears to have been worn very little if at all.
- Tagged a vintage YSL 42
- Excellent condition
Sleeves: approx 18" from the dropped shoulder and they are 12" around the upper arm.
Bust: to 18" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: to 15" flat across from side seam to side seam
Seam across the top of the hips: 19.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Total length: 30" from top of centre neckline to front hem and 36" to back hem including the ruffle
Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED
Item# DD5643
Reference Photos: Fall 1987 Yves Saint Laurent Runway.
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
oscar de la renta
Fall 2002 Oscar de la Renta Runway Look 50 Deep Purple Silk Dress w Hand Applied Patchwork
I Have a Question
- The near twin of this dress walked the Fall 2002 runway for Look 50 in the collection.
- It was made under the creative direction of Oscar de la Renta.
- Photos from a Moroccan open air market were projected onto the stagefront and this is what set the tone for the show that season. In the review of the collection that year Vogue commented; 'There was a whiff of far-flung exoticism throughout the collection... almost every outfit got a touch of spice via embroidery, (or) a dusting of sequins. De la Renta ended as always, with a parade of great evening wear... just a thing for midnight at the Medina.'
- The dress has this fabulous almost sculptural feel with is simple cut and that beautiful deep purple silk fabric. It's full coverage keeps it feeling very refined and elegant.
- The silk is a very high quality and feels very smooth to the touch. This fabric choice keeps it fairly light in weight but it still has enough structure to hold that gorgeous shape that you see.
- The neck is a shallow scoop and the bodice is cut to skim over you. The shoulders are shaped but soft and the sleeves are long and slightly taper down to the wrist.
- The waist is brought in through curved vertical seaming and the skirt falls from there to the floor.
- I love the patchwork panels that are added all the way around the lower hem. These are made up of a variety of embroidered silks and velvets that have the occasional mirrored embellishment worked within the embroidery. These run all the way around the hem and up and into the skirt.
- Underneath the top layer is a vivid pink underskirt with a stiffen hem and ruffle covering over that. I have taken a photo to show you how the very edge of this ruffle peaks out from underneath the outer hem of the skirt for an unexpected shot of vibrant colour.
- The underskirt helps add support and hold the fullness of the skirt. It adds a pretty sense of sweeping skirts as you walk away.
- Hidden pockets are set along each hip.
- The dress is fully lined in a vibrant pink silk. It closes with a hidden back set zipper and each sleeve has a hidden set zipper at its cuff. There is a tiny bit of stress to the center and one side seam near the waist at the back. Please see the photo after the label shot. The zipper has a tiny bit of stick when it hits the spot. It otherwise appears to have been worn very little at all.
- Tagged a Oscar de la Renta 4
- Excellent condition
Sleeves: 24" and are 12" around the upper arm
Shoulders: 14.5"
Bust: to 17.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: to 13.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 20" flat across from side seam to side seam
Total length: 61" from neck to bottom of the pink ruffled hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-SML
Item# DD5606
Reference Photos: Fall 2002 Oscar de la Renta, Look 50.
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
nina ricci
1990s Nina Ricci by Gerard Pipart Haute Couture Black Off Shoulder Dress w Hand Quilted Floral Skirt
I Have a Question
- This dress best matches the look of the collections that were being done in and around the late 1980s to the early-mid 1990s.
- It was made under the creative direction of Gerard Pipart.
- The Nina Ricci brand was founded in 1932 at 20 Rue de Capucines in Paris. In 1964 Gérard Pipart succeeded Jules-François Crahay, Nina Ricci's former designer assistant, as head of the brand. Pipart, who had previously worked for Balmain, Fath, and Patou, brought a wide range of experience in all aspects of fashion to the brand.
- Over the following three decades, Pipart's couture vision 'celebrated a flamboyant woman and his ready-to-wear found a loyal following among the most stylish women of the day.' He headed the Couture division until 1998.
- This is an incredible and very beautiful piece of Haute Couture and would have been made entirely by hand in the Paris atelier.
- This dress is a masterpiece and really showcases how beautiful a piece of true couture can be. Everything about its construction goes above and beyond.
- It is made out of a black silk for the bodice with a black silk netting used for the sleeves. This is combined with top stitched silk on a dotted netting for the the top layer of the skirt.
- The bodice curves and dips across the front and then wraps around to the back. There is inner built-in structure to hold the dress in place and add shape so that it is fitted around you. The silk has been gathered into a seam running vertically down the front and then it does the same thing at each side and the back. A panel wraps over the top of that across the breasts with no seam down the sides. A clever way to subtly add some extra shape and curves. It is fitted to the waist where it nips in.
- The sleeves are spectacular. I have set them slightly on top of the shoulders on my dress form but they can be worn fully off of the shoulders. There is an elastic that is tacked on their insides to help hold them in the spot that you choose to wear them. I love that you can wear them higher up or wear them completely off the shoulders so that you get that gorgeous expanse of bare skin across the top. They are made from layers of silk netting that have been gathered tightly and stacked on top of each other to form the gorgeous bit of fluff and volume that you see.
- The skirt is just extraordinary. It is very full and voluminous as it curves outward and down to the floor. To achieve that shape there is elaborate layers of built-in underskirts that is all hidden. The very top layer is made out of a black dotted net. Onto that are beautiful sprays of flowers and leaves.
- These have been created by a hand cut outs of silk in pink, purple and white that were hand applied to the netting. Top stitching in a black thread is done onto each piece to create the illusion of flowers and leafs. All of the top stitching is entirely done by hand and I cannot even imagine the hours this would have taken to complete.
- That very top layer has an attached inner layer of silk organza and the way that it is attached gives it a bit of volume and air between the top layer and that underlying organza.
- Underneath that are six layers of tulle stacked on top of each other. All of those layers are what gives the skirt the support needed to hold its volume and shape. We have not added any crinolines under the skirt. All of the volume is created because of the brilliant infrastructure underneath. If you had the underskirts lightly starched when pressed in the future it would give an added boost and you could create even more fullness.
- As good as it looks here in the photos it is even better in person.
- The dress is fully lined in a handset cotton muslin through the bodice and closes with a back set zipper. An inner waist stay hooks to close. There is hidden boning and support through the bodice. I see two small repairs along the edge of the hem. It is minor but mentioned for accuracy.
- The proper Haute Couture label is present.
- There is no size tag since it is a couture piece. Please go by the measurements below.
- Excellent condition
Bust: to 16" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 12-12.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: open
Bodice: 10.5" from top of bodice to waist
Total length: 54" from top of bodice to hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-SML
Item# DD5584
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
chanel
Fall 2000 Chanel by Karl Lagerfeld Runway Look 72 One Shoulder Printed Pink & Purple Silk Chiffon Dress
I Have a Question
- The twin of this dress walked the runway for the Fall 2000 Chanel collection as Look 72.
- It was made under the creative direction Karl Lagerfeld
- Three versions of this dress in this print were presented on the Fall 2000 runway that season. The twin of this one was worn by Trish Goff.
- Vogue's review of the collection states in part; 'Fall 2000 was, overall, the season of the lady. One who had polish—and, likely, two homes and one eye on the fluctuating stock market. “With the Dow Jones and Nasdaq soaring and plunging like a late-sixties hemline,” wrote Sally Singer in Vogue, “it was perhaps inevitable that many designers would choose for fall 2000 to forgo fantasy and get back to basics—luxe basics, that is.”
- I think this was one of the best dresses in that collection and it is an absolute favourite.
- The dress is a stunning example of the work that Lagerfeld was doing during this time period.
- It has an easy sexy feel to it. It feels like the kind of dress that you just throw on and walk out the door in and feel fabulous.
- The dress is made from a feather light silk chiffon that has an amazing print combining pinks and purple that covers the entire surface.
- The fabric is draped and gathered over the body to create the very feminine silhouette. There is an inner purple lining that goes to just below the hip so that the silk has something to attach to and the dress is opaque enough to wear. Over that the silk is gathered in soft sweeps around the body.
- A curved panel of fabric attaches in along one hip and drapes down and around the hips. Another panel is attached at the top to drape over one shoulder.
- The panels are a single layer of silk so that they have an interesting play on the overlapping of the pattern as they float over each other.
- The part of skirt below the inner lining also has a touch of transparency that gives a glimpse of the shape of the leg underneath. It is cut on an angle to play on the asymmetrical feel of the dress.
- A slit runs up one side of the skirt so when you move it can catch the air and it move around you.
- The famous double C logo is worked through the print for the perfect finishing touch.
- The dress is lined in a purple silk chiffon through the main body of the dress and upper part of the skirt. It closes with a hidden set side zipper. Light boning on either side of the bust. It appears to have been worn very little if at all.
- Tagged a vintage Chanel 40.
- Excellent condition
Bust: 16.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Seam under bust: 14.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Natural waist: to 15" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 20" flat across from side seam to side seam
Bodice: 6" from top of the bodice to the seam under the bus
Total length : approx 65" from top of shoulder to longest point on hem
Modern Sizing equivalent: XS-SML
Item# DD5582
Reference Photos/Video: Chanel Fall 2000 Runway Collection, Look 72. Model: Trish Goff.
This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.
james galanos
Extraordinary 1970s James Galanos Couture Floral Print Silk Chiffon Dress w Beaded Butterfly Detailing
I Have a Question
- The label on this dress date it to the 1970s period.
- It was made under the creative direction of James Galanos.
- In 1951 a 27 year old James Galanos launched his first label called Galanos Originals. By 1954 he had won a Coty award and the Neiman Marcus award.
- His ready-to-wear line was made close to couture standards and with a level of craftsmanship that was on par with the French couturiers. He was truly one of the great American designers and his work is held in all of the major museums around the world.
- This is a dress that is extremely well made with a very high level of construction techniques.
- The dress is made out of the most beautiful floral print silk chiffon in a mix of soft pastels. The print forms large flowers that cascade over the entire dress.
- There is a full inner bodice made of the same printed silk chiffon. This inner piece has straps that curve up and around the shoulders with a scoop at the front and back. Blousing over that is a fuller cut, single layer of the silk chiffon. It has long sleeves that narrow to the cuff and the most incredible beaded butterfly that is completely made by hand adorning the front. It is spectacularly beautiful.
- The waist nips in and the dress comes with a matching silk covered leather belt.
- The silk is gathered into the waist seam on one side so that it wraps around you. There is a high slit hidden underneath the wrap over on one side and another matching high slit on the other side so you get an unexpected flash of bare leg when you move or sit.
- The workmanship on the dress is absolutely stunning and the vast majority of it is all done by hand including the butterfly at the front.
- The inner bodice that sits under the top acts as the lining and then that is lined with another layer of nude silk chiffon. The skirt is made of two layers of chiffon. It zips to close at the back with a hand set zipper and the outer bodice hooks to close at the back of the neck. Each sleeve ends in a little zipper. I see a tiny pinhole just above the butterfly at the front and some very minor repairs - one near the neckline of the back and some near the hem. Please see the photos after the label shot.
- The dress has no size tag so please go by the listed measurements below.
- Excellent condition with the notes above.
Sleeves: 23" and they are 14" around the upper arm
Shoulders: 15"
Inner bust: to 17.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Inner waist: to 13.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 20" flat across from side seam to side seam
Bodice: 15" from top of shoulder to waist
Total length: 62" from top of shoulder to the longest point of the hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED
Item# DD5574
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
sybil connolly
Elegant Late 1950s Sybil Connolly Couture Pale Lavender Pleated Linen Strapless Dress w Shawl
I Have a Question
- Irish designer Sybil Connolly had her first major US fashion show in 1953. The American press dubbed her the 'Dublin's Dior'. Jacqueline Kennedy wore Connolly for her official White House portrait and Connolly was a particular favorite of Carmen Snow, the editor of Harper's Bazaar.
- It was made under the creative direction of Sybil Connolly
- The dress would've been made entirely by hand in her atelier in Ireland.
- In 1957 she launched her couture label. She created Haute Couture pieces made from Irish textiles and in particular she became famous for her distinctive use of pleated handkerchief linen.
- This excerpt from the FDIM Museum explains Sybil Connolly's techniques: "Sybil Connolly's trademark gowns required a tremendous amount of fabric. To construct one pleated evening dress required between 72 and 90 yards of Irish handkerchief linen. After undergoing a secret pleating process, this initial yardage became 7 to 10 yards of slightly irregular, narrow linen pleats. Like the early 20th century designer Mario Fortuny, Sybil Connolly was very protective of her pleating process, swearing that it was a secret she would "carry to the grave." In her designs, Connolly usually oriented the pleats horizontally, covering the seams with self-fabric cording. The cords also lengthen the overall line of the garment, providing a counterbalance to the horizontal pleats. As Connolly tended towards solid colors, the stiff cording also provides a necessary visual contrast to the soft linen pleats."
- She worked directly with the cloth on a model and rarely sketched beforehand.
- I found a quote that referred to the Irish linen she used to be 'of a quality so fine it was almost chiffon-like in weight' and that description is very accurate.
- The dress has a fairly simple line so that the pleating technique takes centre stage. The bodice is strapless and fitted and the pleated linen runs horizontally across the dress.
- The waist cinches in under that for shape and has a wide attached band done in a matching pale purple silk for added detailing.
- The skirt billows out from there and is very full. To help create the volume that you see the skirt has been set in and around the waist in soft cleats that open up into the fullness that you see as it falls to the floor. An incredible amount of fabric would have been used to create the skirt.
- The dress comes with its original matching shawl. This is cut into a simple triangle with loops set just inside the outer edges to slip your arms through and hold it in place.
- This is a wonderful and very rare example of her work. Most pieces are held in museums.
- The dress is fully lined in an ivory silk and boned through the bodice. It closes with a back zipper on the inner corset and then a second zipper closes over that on the outer layer of the dress. There are areas throughout where the fabric has faded. There are also areas where the it has slightly discoloured. Please see the photos after the label shot. The dress is sold as found and is not sold as perfect. A video can be sent upon request if needed.
- There is no size tag present because it is Couture. Please go by the measurements listed below.
- Overall great condition with the note aboce.
Bust: 16" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 12" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: open
Bodice: 8.5" from top of bodice to the bottom of the 2" band at the waist
Total length: 53" from top of bodice to hem with 2" turned under
Shawl: 41" across the widest point and 25" from the point to the top of the shawl.
Modern Sizing Equivalent: XXS-XS
Item# DD5499
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
yves saint laurent
Well Documented Spring 1983 Yves Saint Laurent Haute Couture Runway Look 53 Silk Floral Dress
I Have a Question
- The twin of this dress walked the runway as Look 53 for the Spring 1983 Haute Couture collection.
- It was made under the creative direction of Yves Saint Laurent.
- The dress would've been made entirely by hand in the Paris atelier.
- On the runway it was shown under a jacket when the model first came out and then she removed the jacket. I love that this shows you how versatile these little dresses can be.
- We also found the fabric noted in a WWD editorial and then I looked into my folio collection book and found the model number and original sketch for you to see. I have included all these reference photos for you here and it gives you a beautiful idea of how fabulous this is once on the body.
- The dress is gorgeous and Yves always cut his couture pieces so perfectly to flatter a woman's body.
- It is made out of a fine silk that has the tiniest ribbed texture running through it.
- The top is cut to skim over you and blouse over the waist. The shoulders have light padding just at their outer edges to slightly extend them outward. They are set into the bodice with gathers so that they slightly pouf above the shoulder line. The sleeves are slim and pouf out just slightly as they slim down to the zippered cuffs.
- The neckline is set wide across the collarbones and edged in a black silk band.
- The waist is seamed and we have added a black grosgrain ribbon there for shape. You can add a belt instead if you wanted a really cinched in look.
- The skirt falls under that in a simple pencil to just about the knee or above depending on your height.
- There are hidden set pockets along each hip.
- The colour of the silk is the best thing about the dress. It is a mix of a bright pink, green, blue and a deep purple set in a large floral design that runs over the entire dress.
- Truly a brilliant dress and when you see it in person you will fall in love with how good it is in person. And it is just so good on the body. A masterpiece.
- Unlined through the bodice and lined in a black silk through the skirt. All the work is done by hand to Haute Couture standards. It closes with a back zipper and two buttons at the back of the neck. An inner waist stay hooks to close. Each cuff has a hand set hidden set zipper to close. Light padding in each shoulder as described above. Completely made by hand. Proper Haute Couture numbered label present. The grosgrain ribbon is not original to the dress but will be sent with it.
- There is no size tag present because it is true Couture so please go by the measurements listed below.
- Excellent condition.
Sleeves: 22" and 13.75" around the upper arm
Slightly wide set shoulders: 16"
Bust: to 21" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 12.5-13" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 21" flat across from side seam to side seam
Bodice: 16" from top of shoulder to waist but mean to blouse a bit
Total length: 38" from top of shoulder to hem with 2" turned under
Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-SML
Item# DD5486
Reference Photos: (1-4) Spring 1983 Yves Saint Laurent Haute Couture Runway. / (5-7) Spring 1983 Yves Saint Laurent Haute Couture Advance Preview. / (8) Womens Wear Daily, February 1983.
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
nina ricci
Outstanding Spring 2009 Nina Ricci by Olivier Theyskens Runway Look 12 Floral Printed Silk Dress
I Have a Question
- The twin of this dress walked the runway for the Spring 2009 Nina Ricci
- It was made the creative direction of Olivier Theyskens.
- In Vogue's review of the collection they said "Olivier Theyskens' collection for Nina Ricci was like watching the performance of a long piece of self-referential romantic poetry. It's a world of his own, and to fully appreciate it, you need to know what's gone before in his work: his love of Edwardiana and tailcoats; the fluttery, flyaway cutting; the delicate prints and the dusty, organic woodland-floor palettes he likes. Essentially, it was a single silhouette, with a high collar, leg-of-mutton sleeves, and skirts cut away to show long lengths of leg, clad in sheer black tights, walking on high-heeled pump"
- Theyskens said he was "inspired by dance and dresses that each evolved their own shape, short in the front and long in the back."
- Pieces from his time at the Nina Ricci label are an important piece of Theyskens history.
- The dress is made out if a hand dyed silk with a print that suggest flowers in soft pastels. It has a touch of a watercolour painting in feel.
- Under the top layer is a second pale pink tissue silk layer that is cut to follow the lines of the dress and it peeks out from behind the edges of the entire piece.
- The bodice is very feminine in feel. The pink tissue silk under layer is cut to give a touch of a ruffle feel all the way around the straps that curved up and over the shoulders.
- At the back there is a rounded soft scoop that leaves your entire back bare and exposed. The pink silk underlayer peaks out to create a touch of ruffle all around that scoop.
- Vertical seaming creates shape through the waist and then the dress curves back out and over the hips.
- The skirt is extraordinary. Depending on your height, it will sit just from mid thigh to above the knee. From there it is set so it has a slight ruffled feel all the way down the sides to the floor and then the back sweeps out behind you.
- The silk used is extremely light in weight so this moves fantastically. I love that we have reference runway stills and video for you to be able to see how beautifully it moves.
- This is an extraordinary example of his work during this time period.
-
The dress is fully lined in a pale pink tissue silk as described above and closes with a hidden set back zipper. It appears to have never been worn or worn very little.
- Tagged a Nina Ricci 36
- Excellent condition
Bust: 15-17" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 12.5-13.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 18" flat across from side seam to side seam
Total length: 32" from top of shoulder to front hem, 85" to the back hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-MED
Item# DD5379
Reference Photos/Video: (1-3) Spring 2009 Nina Ricci, Look 12. Model Taryn Davidson. / (4-5) From the book "She walks in beauty" by Rizzoli Electa.
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
christian dior
Beautiful Resort 2009 Christian Dior by John Galliano Purple Bias Silk Crepe Dress w Plunge Front & Train
I Have a Question
- This dress is from the Cruise 2009 collection and it is a production piece produced for the shops.
- It was made under the creative direction of John Galliano.
- The runway pieces that season were based lightly on Poiret and the Paris of the past and for production there was a group of more refined and elegant pieces like this wonderful dress. You so often see how John translated his over the top runway collections into elegant, wearable and yet still glamorous pieces like this dress but this one is infinitely wearable.
- The Vogue report on the collection noted that: "Galliano has been mining the good old U.S. of A. for raw material from which to spin his dreams....grandes dames like Barbara Hutton, Millicent Rogers, and Nan Kempner—women who weren't afraid to make a bold sartorial statement, one that preferably involved a whopping piece of jewelry. From a shimmering backdrop that conjured a Tony Duquette garden, there emerged a full wardrobe for their modern-day counterparts in Palm Beach, Beverly Hills, and Dallas.... What this season is really about is not so much breaking the mold as delivering a vision of the good life—and Galliano can do that in spades."
- The dress is made out of a crepe that has a little bit of texture to it and is in the absolute perfect purple colour that is so good on so many skin tones.
- Wide straps curve up and around the neck and they extend into two triangles that cover your front and slightly wrapped around the sides.
- The neckline plunges right to the waist at the front and the entire upper back is left bare.
- A wide band wraps around your middle to the top of the hip and it is detailed with buttons that run down the front and appear to hold and gather the dress around you. These buttons are decorative. The real buttons are spaced down the side in his signature tightly spaced fabric covered buttons and loops and this is what closes the dress around you. His buttons are a design detail in themselves.
- From there it curves over the hips and then falls to the floor, expanding out as it near the hem. The bottom skirt is quite full and it flares out dramatically on either side.
- At the back, it stands out to create a train behind you. This extra fabric at the bottom creates beautiful movement as you walk and it elongates the body fantastically.
- This is that long, sexy silhouette that Galliano does so well and it is spectacular in this deep purple colour.
- The bodice is unlined and the skirt is lined in a purple silk that is cut to extend all the way to the end of the train at the back. The buttons at the front or decorative and the dress closes with a series of tightly space buttons at one side.
- Tagged a Dior FR36, GB8, IT40, US4
- Excellent condition
Bust: each triangle covered approximately 6-8" from side to side
Seam under the bust: to 17" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 13" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 20" flat across from side seam to side seam
Bodice: approx 11" from neck to the seam under the bust
Total length: 64.5" from neck to front hem and the train extends out another 18.5"
Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED
Item# DD5320
Reference Photos: Resort 2009 Christian Dior, Looks 37 & 53.
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
john galliano
Gorgeous Fall 2003 John Galliano Dusky Purple Bias Cut Silk & Silk Chiffon Dress w Draped Panels
I Have a Question
- This dress is from John Galliano's own label and is an incredible example of his work from this time period.
- It was made under the creative direction of John Galliano
- This is a production piece that was not shown on the runway but would have been made in limited quantities for the shops.
- For this season he had emphasized a glamorous hourglass shape mixed with nods to pinup girl lingerie style dressing. These bias cut dresses always showcase his love of the 1930s and 1940s and you can see that influence in them.
- The dress is made out of a deep dusky purple silk that has a slight bit of texture to it. It is completely cut on the bias in that signature cut he does so well.
- The dress falls from a delicate strap that curves up and behind the neck and then it drapes down and over the body to the floor.
- The bias cut of it allows the dress to skim and drape over you so that it shows every curve but is not overly fitted.
- The fabric has been pieced together with dropped and angled panels throughout to create the beautiful shape that you see.
- At the back, the strap meets behind the neck and then drop down the centre of the back and panels of silk are suspended from it. These curving panels can be worn either down and under the arms or you can drape your arms through them to create a beautiful curving 'sleeve' effect over the arm.
- The dress glides over the body past the bust, waist and hips and then flares out as it reaches the hem.
- It buttons to close down the side with a row of his signature buttons covered in the same silk and then on the other side the fabric is gathered in and up into a wired circle. The circle is open in the centre and the panels that gather into the circle have been cut out and opened so that it forms the shape of a flower trailing over one hip.
- The dress is lined in a crepe silk but you could choose to remove that lining and have that side be completely bare so that your skin showed through if you wished. I have seen this dress in another colour where someone did that and it looked great. It is an incredible feat of patterning.
- The photos cannot fully convey how a bias cut dress moves. It will only truly come to life when worn.
- Fully lined in a slightly deeper purple silk crepe and closes at the side with a series of silk covered buttons. I see perhaps a tiny pull in the fabric here and there which happens with this fabric and a bit of shininess here and there from pressing near seams. All minor and mentioned for accuracy.
- Tagged a FR42, GB14, US8. The bias cut should allow it to fit a range of sizes with it just draping more in a smaller frame
- Excellent condition
Bust: 16-19" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 13-16" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 18-21" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 63" from top of shoulder to hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-LRG
Item# DD5318
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
chloe
Rare Spring 1979 Chloe by Karl Lagerfeld Floral & Stripe Print Silk Dress w Matching Striped Belt
I Have a Question
- After much research I believe this to be from the Spring 1979 Chloe collection.
- It was made under the creative direction of Karl Lagerfeld.
- In this collection he moved away from 1940s as his inspiration into the sex appeal of the 1950s, said the book 'Chloe Catwalk'. The silhouettes were based on the hourglass. In that same book there was a very similar floral patterns shown I have included several photos here for you.
- Hand placed gathering emphasizes the hips for many of the pieces in this collection, along with extra emphasis on the waist. Lagerfeld said of the collection to the press "Frivolity is important. I want shape and sensualness."
- The dress is made from one of his signature feather light silks being used during this time period for Chloe. It is screened with a custom print that mixes an ivory, more pastel coral colour and a pale lavender.
- An interesting detail is that the labels are on the side of the dress that I think is the front. The side that has the deep plunge is longer in length at the hem so I believe that should be the back. I have seen other dresses with this label placement from around this time period and when the back is plunged like this, so it is not unusual to see. I have photoed it both ways for you, with the plunge at the back and the front. You could potentially wear the plunge at the front if you don't mind the longer hem at the front much like that Lacroix dress from me that was worn to the Met Gala a couple years ago when they turned it around backwards.
- The sleeves are long and it skims over the bust to the waist. The back plunges into a low V to just above the waist. As mentioned above, it is possible that you could wear it either way around. It is incredibly sexy worn either way.
- The waist is seamed and the dress comes with its original striped screened silk belt that hooks into place around you. The stripes on the belt pick up the stripes that are on the end of each sleeve and circle around the hem.
- The skirt curves over the hips and there is a gathering of the silk for added shape. It falls to the floor with the back cut longer then the front for a slight trained effect. You get the most fantastic movement as you walk.
- The dress is in its original uncut length and is unlined. It closes with a back hand set zipper. Hand finishes throughout. There is a tiny bit of fading at the top of the shoulders and edges of the hems. The entire dress looks to be hand dyed and or screened and it presents perfectly once on as this becomes part of the uniqueness of the pattern. The belt hooks to close.
- Excellent condition with the note above.
Sleeves: 22.5" and are 11" around the upper arm
Shoulders: 14"
Bust: to 17" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 12.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 18.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Bodice: 16.5" from neck to waist
Total length: 60" from neck to front hem, 68" to the back hem with about 2" turned under the hem
Belt: 2.5" wide x 27" long where the hooks currently sit.
Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-SML
Item# DD5310
Reference Photos: From the book "Chloe: The Complete Collections" by Lou Stoppard.
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
jacques heim
Exceptional 1950s Jacques Heim Golden Era Haute Couture Ultra Rare Purple-Gray Net & Handmade Lace Dress
I Have a Question
- This is an exceptional and very rare example of a Heim Haute Couture work from the late 1940s early 1950s.
- It was made under the creative direction of Jacques Heim.
- Jacques Heim began his career working at his parents fur business. In 1923 he took that business over and made it into his own vision. Heim began designing a line of made to order, in-house couture pieces that used original fabrics most notably those of Sonia Delauney. In 1930 his label became an official member of Haute Couture and his self-named label, Jacques Heim, was born. Jacques remained at the helm of his business until his death in 1967. The label closed in 1969.
- This era of Couture was known as the golden era in part because of its excellence in every aspect to the art of Couture. This dress is everything you look for in an Haute Couture dress from this time period.
- The dress is a phenomenal example of Couture and is made out of a hand dyed net and hand dyed, handmade lace.
- The dress is completely made by hand and would have been made in his Paris atelier.
- Wide straps curve up and over each shoulder and then the front neck and back are both scooped with a more shallow version at the front in a deeper one at the back. The opening across the shoulders is cut wider across so that you can wear this dress more on the outside of your shoulders and expose the collarbones.
- It skims over the bust and is shaped and meant to be slightly more fitted. From there it nips in at the waist. The dress comes with its original matching belt that is also made by hand and covered in the same net and silk as the dress. The belt is slim in its cut and highlights the waist even more.
- The skirt is truly outstanding. It is the perfect rendition of that 1950s full "New Look" feeling skirt that has come to be so associated with that era. The skirt is made from five layers of tulle that are hand dyed to this incredible soft taupey grey that has a hint of purple in its undertone. These five layers sit on top of multiple layers of inner skirting. All of the volume that you see here is created from the stocking of all those layers. I have added nothing extra underneath for these photos, though I think you could make it even fuller if you took the time to starch out every single layer.
- Onto the very top layer of netting are hand applied strips of handmade lace that have been added in vertical rows. Fees stand down and over the bodice to the waist. From there they trail down the skirt to end in various lengths. This has been done all the way around you and the final effect this creates is beautiful. It is hard to imagine the length of time this all would have taken by hand.
- The dress closes with a back metal zipper and the belt buckles to close. The inner bodice is boned for structure and all the hand work is done to Couture standards. An inner waist stay hooks to close. The skirt is made from multiple layers of netting as described above. I see a tiny bit of wear near one grommet of the buckle, one tiny repair in the netting and a faint mark on the skirt. These are all extremely minor but mentioned for accuracy.
- There is no size tag present since it is true Couture so please go by the measurements below.
- Excellent condition.
Bust: 17.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 13" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: open
Bodice: 14.5" from top of shoulder to waist
Total length: 45" from top of shoulder to hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED
Item# DD5296
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
thierry mugler
Rare Fall 2001 Thierry Mugler Runway Purple Silk Crepe Dress w the Most Incredible Open Cuts Outs
I Have a Question
- The twin of this dress walk the runway for the Fall 2001 collection and both this purple and a black version were shown on the runway.
- The dress was made under the creative direction of Thierry Mugler.
- Mugler was a masterpiece of draping and cut and this is a fantastic example of that. It is cut with Mugler's masterful eye and attention to detail.
- The dress is extremely difficult to show on a dress form because of the cut through the upper body and arms so please refer to the runway photos for reference. It is spectacular on the body.
- The dress is made out of a purple silk crepe mix that has a slight texture to it.
- A high collar wraps around the neck and the collar is detailed with a silver metal mesh. Onto the mesh are various sized rhinestones set in silver bases. All of them are stitched on one top spot only so they have this incredible little bit of movement.
- A long keyhole at the front open in a V all the way to an empire set seam at the waist. At the back there is an open slit down to the waist seam so you get a flash of skin there as well.
- The waist is defined with a wide band of the same purple fabric and I love how it curves upward at the front to meet the bottom of the keyhole there.
- The skirt flows over the hips and gently widens out as it nears the hem. There is a high slit up the centre front seam which lets a bit of a leg to show when you walk.
- The sleeves are spectacular. They are split on an angle coming out from the collar. The open split runs all the way down to just above the elbow and then they narrow down to the cuff from there. This gives them an incredible amount of movement around your arms.
- Each cuff ends in the same highly detailed mesh and rhinestone combination that you see on the collar of the dress and I love how this ties everything together. The cuffs are set on an angle where they fall past the hymn of the sleeve with the mesh ending in a point so that it goes down and over the top of your hand.
- The dress is fully lined in a black silk and closes with a hidden set back zipper under the slit. It hooks to close at the back of the neck and each cuff has a zipper closure.
- Tagged a vintage Mugler 42
- Excellent condition
Sleeves: approx 26" and the metal mesh falls another 4.5" past that. The upper arm is open because of the open slits. The neck is 14" from end to end
Bust: 16-18.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: to 15.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 19-20" flat across from side seam to side seam
Bodice: 10.5" from neck to seam under the keyhole
Total length: 62" from neck to hem
Slit: 25" from the hem up
Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED
Item# DD5165
Reference Photos/Video: Fall 2001 Thierry Mugler.
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
christian dior
Rare Fall 2007 Christian Dior by John Galliano Runway Look 43 Purple Hammered Silk Top Skirt Dress Set
I Have a Question
- The twin of this set walked the runway for the Fall 2007 show for Look 43. He repeated the same design through the upper bodice for Look 18 and we have included a photo of that look here for reference.
- It was made under the creative direction of John Galliano
- In the book 'Dior Catwalk' they note that the Collection "managed to translate the intricate Japanese inspired references and techniques of Galliano's previous Haute Couture show for ready-to-wear, from origami folding and gravity defying pleats to elegant draping, tiered skirts, striking headpieces and bright colors." Women's Wear Daily hailed the collection as "a brilliant blockbuster, a glorious celebration of the grand and glamorous."
- Once worn together, you get the feel of a full length dress, but it is a two piece set with its original belt included. Both pieces are made out of a dusky purple hammered silk that has incredible drape.
- The top slips on and zips to close at the back. The shoulders are soft and the sleeves are cut long and on a curve to follow the shape of the arm. Each sleeve is cut a little longer than a normal sleeve so that when they are on the body they bunch up along your arm just slightly. This was a Galliano signature. There are no traditional armhole seams. Instead, they just curve outward from the body of the top and there are gusseted seams underneath. These are all extra steps that you rarely see anymore in the construction of arm holes and sleeves.
- The neckline comes in a shallow V and then all of the silk is gathered up and into the intricate fold at the front and this is where you see the references outlined in the book quote above.
- The set comes with its original hand dyed snakeskin belt that you use to cinch in the waist. It is meant to sit over the top of that incredible front fold to create the look that he showed on the runway. The buckle of the belt is finished in deep purple rhinestones.
- The skirt that goes under the top is equally as incredible. It skims over the hips and there is an extra panel of fabric that puddles and drapes down one side from just below the hip and runs all the way to the floor. Under that panel is an incredibly high slit that goes all the way up to the top of the thigh. The skirt flares out as it nears the floor and the hem has a touch of an asymmetrical feel to it with the side with the panel falling longer past the hem than where it starts on the inside portion of the slit.
- On the runway you can see the high slit as the model moves and this skirt has that same detail.
- This is an exceptionally rare set especially since it comes with its original belt.
- The top slips on with a hidden set short zipper at the back of the neck. The belt has a rhinestone encrusted buckle and the skirt closes with a side hidden set zipper. There is a teeny bit of lift on the edges and wear marks on the belt that are minor and if I hold the skirt up to the light I see a tiny bit of stress marks under the waist seam of the skirt but it does not show at all otherwise. I am being very picky. Both pieces otherwise appear to have been worn very little if at all.
- Both pieces are tagged a vintage Dior FR40, GB12, IT44, US8
- Excellent condition
Top
Sleeves: approx 26-27" and are 12" around the upper arm
Shoulders: no true defined seam
Bust: to 18.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: to 17" flat across from side seam to side seam
Bottom seam: 19" flat across from side seam to side seam
Total length: 20.5" from neck to hem
Skirt
Waist: 13.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: open
Total length: 49" from waist to the shortest part of the hem, 54" to the longest
Slit: 36.5" from the shortest part of the hem up
Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED
Item# DD5167
Reference Photos: Fall 2007 Christian Dior, Look 43 & 18.
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
Ady Couture
Fall 1987 Ady Couture Lausanne for Givenchy Iridescent Purple Metallic Dress w Velvet Bow
I Have a Question
This dress was made by hand in the atelier of Ady Couture who was based in Lausanne Switzerland. Ady herself was a couture trained seamstress and headed a team who had full permission of the Haute Couture houses she worked with to make the designs they showed in Paris for clients based in Switzerland and the surrounding areas. She would purchase the couture fabrics from the couture houses along with the patterns and then make the actual dresses in her atelier. This arrangement with the couture houses was a way to work around customs during this time period and do fittings for clients unable to travel to Paris. So far we have verified that she had this arrangement with Yves Saint Laurent, Christian Dior, Givenchy and Ungaro. There may have been others but those are the four labels we have documentation on from the runway. This dress is from the Fall 1987 Haute Couture collection. Several variations of this dress where produced and we have included reference photos where you can see the strapless version from the runway. And a shorter version of this dress was also shown on the runway and one was worn by Audrey Hepburn as well.
The dress is made from the most incredible iridescent metallic fabric. It is purple first and foremost but when the light hits here it gets a highlight of a hint of the green that is just amazing to see. The fabric has enough weight to it to hold the shape that you see. The neckline is scooped and the sleeves are set into the shoulders so that you get a bit of a peak where they are gathered into the bodice. They are cut wider near the top of your arm and then taper down to the wrist. The bodice skims over you to the slightly dropped waist seam. Around the hip area is a wide band of gathered fabric that creates that incredible volume. A black velvet bow sits the front. The skirt is cut on a sharp angle that widens out to be quite full as it nears the floor. The cut is meant to feel sculptural and contrast the volume around the hips. The back of the skirt is fuller and set a little longer then the front. One version on the runway was belted and you could easily add a belt to add shape. The interior of the dress is completely finished to couture standards with every single seam done by hand. It is beautifully made and appears to have been worn very little if at all. Excellent condition
Fully lined in a black silk and closes with a hidden set zipper at the back and there are hidden set zippers at each wrist. Hand finished throughout. It appears to have been worn very little if at all. Made to Haute Couture standards
Sleeves: 26"
Shoulders: 16"
Bust: to 20" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: to 16.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 20" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 54.5" from top of shoulder to front hem, 58" to the longest part of the back hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: MED-LRG
Item# DD3808
Reference Photos: (1) A/W 1987 Givenchy Haute Couture Silver metallic lame brocade strapless gown dress with a black velvet chest and bow and 2-layer puffy skirt. L'Officiel No. 734, September 1987. / (2-4) Fall 1987 Givenchy Haute Couture Runway. / (5) Audrey Hepburn, in Givenchy, at the Sheraton Hotel in New York City for the 17th Annual International Emmy Awards in 1989.
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
yves saint laurent
Fall 1982 Yves Saint Laurent Iridescent Purple Silk Taffeta Gigot Sleeve Dress
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The twin of this dress walked the runway for the Fall 1982 show and I love that we found photos of it for you so you can see just how spectacular it is one and how the sleeves sit once on a body. This silhouette with its dramatic sleeves and full skirts was an important element for that season. It is just a stunning example of one of his most recognized looks.
The dress is made from a combination of two of his favorite fabrics, silk taffeta and silk velvet. These became signatures of his and ran through his collections from the start of his career to the finish. It is a stunning piece. The top is cut to skim over the bust with a scooped neckline at the front. It is seamed at the waist and then extends down over the top of the hips. There is an attached silk taffeta sash that wraps around the waist and cinches you in for added shape and detail at the waist. The sleeves are full with a beautiful sweeping cut that starts at the shoulders and remains full to just past the elbow. At that point the fabric changes to to a velvet. Four glossy dome buttons detail the lower part of the sleeve. These are meant to be pushed up slightly to exaggerate that pouf of the upper sleeve even more. The skirt falls from under the velvet and it is beautifully full. The photos do not really do the amount of fabric in the skirt full justice. I love that under the top purple layer of silk there is a lining finished in a coral red silk taffeta. You don't see that inner layer when you are standing, but when you sit or move just right, you get that extra flash of color. It's a small detail that I am obsessed with. The fabric choices helps keep the intended shape and volume. Pieces by Yves from this time period have become an important piece of fashion history and having documentation like this one has makes it that much better. Excellent condition.
Fully lined through the bodice in a black silk satin. The skirt is lined in a deep red silk taffeta and the sleeves are unlined. It closes at the side with a metal and nylon zipper and each cuff buttons to close. The sash is attached at the back. Slight flattening to the velvet here and there along the waist seam that is covered by the belt once on. Tagged a vintage YSL 40.
Sleeves: 29"
Shoulders: 15"
Bust: 17.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 14" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: open
Bodice: 17" from shoulder to waist
Skirt: 43.5" from waist to hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED
Item# DD2856
Reference Photos: (1-2) Fall 1982 Yves Saint Laurent Runway. / (3) Alice Englert wearing this dress for Harper's Bazaar, 2023.
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